Chasing - Gundog people!

Hormonal Filly

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So.. wondering if there’s any 'gundog' members on here especially the more experienced to pick their brains. This might not make to much sense to anyone not familiar with the ‘gundog’ world so apologies.

I own a gorgeous Working Cocker Spaniel, who’s 2 1/2 now. My first spaniel and first gundog I’ve trained myself. He is a highly driven fast dog, tons of drive and very head strong. One trainer previously said he has the potential to trial. My boyfriend owns/runs a pheasant shoot so we are lucky in the respect we can use the land as we wish, and my spaniel has picked up since he was 1 1/2 old and did have several runners (my mistake) I originally trained him like a lab, all straight lines and retrieves. Hes like a mini lab and will take blinds better than our lab sometimes in all honesty. The retrieving side of things hes perfect and am happy with that.

The problem was I never done any hunting/quartering training with him, and when he did hunt he’d sometimes chase. I instantly knew this was a problem, so started a year ago to train him to quarter which was a long hard task, he had it in him but would just stand wagging his tail unsure what to do!

Fast forward on a year - he can now quarter lovely, hes got a lovely turn whistle, stop and recall. But hes got older the chasing has got worse. He won’t chase crows, seagulls or duck but only pheasant and partridge, oh and rabbits. I’ve been going to a excellent gundog trainer (award winning) for a year who really really knows her stuff and has helped endlessly with private lessons. We’ve been using pigeons to get him steady to flush and hunting on gamey land, he still tries to chase the pigeons. Shes given endless advice, regarding trying to get flushes close to me as possible but I’ve seen no improvement with the flush and chasing. She even says herself that the stop whistle and recall is 100% UNTIL he flushes something and he’s a completely different dog.

He’ll quarter and be BANG on the whistle, he honestly looks like a trialling dog.. flush something and then BANG, chase. Sometimes not far, sometimes across the field. I have tried ignoring him, really telling him off, getting after him and correcting him by putting him where the stop was blown but it makes 0 difference. He will sit with pheasants all around him, flying all over him and is well used to birds as we feed regularly. Its just when he gets a ‘flush’ we have a issue.

Basically. Has anyone else had a behaviour like this? Have you ever managed to cure it?


I took him out on our land every day for 3 days, just doing some quartering and an odd flush in cover. He only stopped for one flush and chased every other time. I thought doing little and doing it for a few days he’d eventually get it, but nope. Telling him off doesn’t seem to work. I understand he chases as he thinks everything is a pricked bird but he hasn’t picked a pricked bird for over 3 months now as am working so hard to stop this behaviour. I do take him picking up, but he remains sat next to me until the end of the drive where he might get one retrieve which is always a dead bird and nothing live.

Any opinions appreciated. I understand its my error in training him, but a year on and one thing I can’t solve is the chasing.
 
Who are you training with? Pm me of you prefer, where in the country are you? Does he really get his nose down and hunt or does he scan the horizon? if he does the latter you need to get him hunting with his nose on the deck



Can you get him in a rabbit pen at all? That would be the ideal scenario, if you can stop him on a rabbit you can stop him on anything! I have a similar issue with my WCS, I had him on a stop line to reninforce the whistle, and a strategicallt lobbed small bottle with some pebbles in and he's much better now, no more lining out and piddling off....
 
You have my ESS! I pick up with him too. Keep him on lead intil drive finished then hold my breath whilst he's clearing up. He no longer chases unshot pheasants once he has flushed, once they've risen a few metres. His stop can be questionable on game. However in training he's perfect on stop both to whistle and shot. Flush is improving.

He's 5 next week and still is and always will be a work in progress. Just keep working away with him and appreciate all the tiny improvements. Also get a labrador to remind you that you can train a reliable gundog!.

Even spaniel triallers say my dog is particularly hot headed however when he has a good day I get a huge buzz!
 
I think you were on a gundog forum with another name? Dog was chasing rabbits back in 2018 early in his training - was that resolved or is this a continuation?

Has the dog been shot over? Or is the flushing beating/dogging in? If not there's zero reward to stopping to flush currently.

Rabbit pen, check cord and a cold/warm game retrieve hand thrown when a stop is achieved even if it is by check cord coercion. If scruffing etc hasn't worked you need to try a different tack - the dog has to want to stop if he's not effectively "intimidated" enough by you to stop. Those are your options.


I get mine on the whistle and teach them to stop to a flush without a whistle by fading the whistle as they learn to stop. And reinforce the stop to shot. So a flush and shot effectively gives the dog two "commands" to stop before I ever blow a whistle
 
Thank you all for your replies, its really appreciated.

Who are you training with? Pm me of you prefer, where in the country are you? Does he really get his nose down and hunt or does he scan the horizon? if he does the latter you need to get him hunting with his nose on the deck

Can you get him in a rabbit pen at all? That would be the ideal scenario, if you can stop him on a rabbit you can stop him on anything! I have a similar issue with my WCS, I had him on a stop line to reninforce the whistle, and a strategicallt lobbed small bottle with some pebbles in and he's much better now, no more lining out and piddling off....

I'll PM you. If hes on a nice bit of cover, or woodland he usually really gets his nose down and hunts lovely. We have been working so hard on quartering. He quartered some cover crop last week and looked fab.

I've been trying to find a rabbit pen for months, closest I can find is 85 miles away. If I can't find closer I'll have to drive there!

Also get a labrador to remind you that you can train a reliable gundog!.

Haha! Your post made me laugh @Thistle :D We have a lab, shes so laid back and steady its unbelievable. I love working my cocker though as he has SO much drive and enthusiasm compared to the lab. One Saturday he had a few cracking retrieves, one bird 3 labs missed and 2 were trialing labs. They asked me to get him quartering the cover and within seconds he picked up a sent and picked a hen bird from the heaviest cover I've ever seen (had to help him get out) and delivered to hand - he cut his nose and was covered in blood. He can be a cracking dog, its literally just the flushing that gets him over excited and he looses his head. Sweeping after drives and on blinds hes brilliant - better than our lab as he handles so well on the whistle (when his heads in the right place)

I think you were on a gundog forum with another name? Dog was chasing rabbits back in 2018 early in his training - was that resolved or is this a continuation?

Has the dog been shot over? Or is the flushing beating/dogging in? If not there's zero reward to stopping to flush currently.

Rabbit pen, check cord and a cold/warm game retrieve hand thrown when a stop is achieved even if it is by check cord coercion. If scruffing etc hasn't worked you need to try a different tack - the dog has to want to stop if he's not effectively "intimidated" enough by you to stop. Those are your options.

I get mine on the whistle and teach them to stop to a flush without a whistle by fading the whistle as they learn to stop. And reinforce the stop to shot. So a flush and shot effectively gives the dog two "commands" to stop before I ever blow a whistle

Quite possibly was me! I went to a good gundog trainer with the aim to stop the chasing after that post, well went to 3 trainers and stuck with 1. I made some friends off the group and still speak to them, I don't post anymore as a few members weren't nice and made me feel like I've failed my dog (I know its all my mistakes, but they weren't nice about it) During the lessons I was tp;d is hunting was basically crap, which they said was the issue.. so I spent over 6 months purely working on quartering with her advise. It turns out he can bloody hunt well now he knows what hes doing. The trainer wouldn't let him in a rabbit pen until he can quarter, when he could - her rabbits had to be let out as the pen flooded so we didn't even get in the rabbit pen. I've worked furiously on stop, turn and recall. I've been told he could do a good working test now as they're usually cold game or dummys. He also sits to shot nicely.

He has picked up mostly, the mistake I made was he picked quite a few runners last season at just over a year old.. and done 'some' dogging in. I don't like dogging in with him as he starts using his eyes rather than his nose. He has never been beating or done any walked up, purely as I can't trust him chasing a flush.

Problem is, he seems to know when hes on a check cord. By check cord, do you mean long line? He was on a longline for ages, but seemed to learn when he was on it. If I let it run along the floor, when he flushes he was so quick I couldn't grab it or stand on it quick enough so it proved pointless. The cover is also thick, so its difficult having a line on him without getting tangled up. I have never tried this method of chucking cold game out when he flushes. It would work once he learnt I'm sure, IF I could get him to stop to the flush. Unless I just chuck a cold bird out and hope it distracts him? The issue is the land I have access to is very hilly and the birds are in cover on the hills. My cocker seems to of learnt he can chase them downhill and I can't get to him quick enough.
I might put him back on the long line and try your method..

He doesn't need a stop whistle on feather or fur dummys if thrown in, rolled or the dummy launcher. He KNOWS he should stop immediately when something moves without me saying anything. I tried to train him that movement means stop - its worked well on dummys but hes to clever when it comes to live game. The trainer said that too. When its 'live' and makes the pheasant noises, he knows he can chase. I even had a lesson on a bolting rabbit dummies February 2018, he just ignored it as knew it was fake so proved useless.
 
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I had him on a stop line to reninforce the whistle, and a strategicallt lobbed small bottle with some pebbles in and he's much better now, no more lining out and piddling off....

I haven't tried this. He was being a turd once ignoring me while I was riding by rolling in something. I threw my crop at him (only lightly) and it made him jump a mile. Since then hes scared of anything that 'falls' on him so the bottle with pebbles in might work to snap him out of it...
 
He gets no reward for flushing in his mind except for a chase then. Why should he stop, when you think about it from his point of view?

A check cord should be light and long enough that he can never get away from you on it (very thin pound shop washing line is ideal as it is covered in plastic so won't get caught up). Check cord and reward the stop (even if the stop is you stomping on the cord initially). If your partner owns the shoot would he not shoot a few birds over him? It is the making of most spaniels when they connect the dots of flush-shot-retrieve.

In a rabbit pen I reward a stop to flush by sending the dog for a blind cold game retrieve pre-planted behind out casting off point for hunting.
 
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