Cleaning sheepskin pads and half lined saddle cloths

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Jane_Lou

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Having never had dead sheep on a horse before it has come as a shock to the system that new mare seems to appreciate the stuff rather too much for my liking. I am slowly building a collection of half lined saddle cloths and half pads, some skin attached and some not. I now have one that requires washing after this weekends eventing. It is white and not one on skin, I was thinking of using Vanish spray on the cotton bits that are marked and then washing with a wool specific detergent on a wool wash - I am sure however some of you dead sheep experts can advise me more though.

I also have a half pad that is on skin that needs a wash, does the same apply or is there a better way to wash them?

Any advice appreciated :)
 
Wash as cool as possible in Nuu Wash or similar but rub in a generous amount of cheapo hair conditioner (the people sort!) on the fluffy bits before putting in the washer on a "gentle" cycle.
I then brush it with a sheepskin brush (got mine from Horse Dream) after it comes out of the machine and lie flat to dry INSIDE - do not hang on a line or put in direct sunlight.
Voila! lovely fluffy sheepskin, no matting or curling!
 
I have the same problem, but got great advice from the gentleman on The Horse's Health stand YHL in November. I tend to brush the sheepskin through with a slicker brush when it is dry, rub lots of hair conditioner through it and then was it in the machine on a delicates wash with a half quantity of delicate (wool wash) detergent - for humans, not the specific horse stuff.

I don't wash them overly, but obviously the white ones do mark easily. I have found that this does get the marks out. I have used a US sourced stain stick on really tough stains, I would imagine that Vanish would be just as good. If you don't use much, it shouldn't affect the sheepskin.

If in doubt, ask the manufacturers. Mattes have lots of info about care of their products.
:)
 
I always used to use dead sheep directly against horse but having had 2 pads go downhill I have followed friend by using thin cotton pad underneath - I know it seems a shame as dead sheep then not next to skin but it means you rarely have to wash them - I wash the cotton side when it gets dirty by hand so dead sheep always dry ! I used to use ecowash or similar very mild detergent on cool wash then brush through when still wet.
 
meesha said:
I always used to use dead sheep directly against horse but having had 2 pads go downhill I have followed friend by using thin cotton pad underneath - I know it seems a shame as dead sheep then not next to skin but it means you rarely have to wash them - I wash the cotton side when it gets dirty by hand so dead sheep always dry ! I used to use ecowash or similar very mild detergent on cool wash then brush through when still wet.
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The half pad did have a thin cotton cloth under it but she has dictated that she requires sheepskin directly against her skin, hence the purchase of half lined saddle cloths ;)

Joking apart, she is so much happier with the sheepskin directly on her that I think for now this is the way to go. The black one is coping with being brushed and she is quite clean so its seems to be lasting a good while before needing a wash, the white one lasted one days eventing and will need to be cleaned before its used again, I may try surface washing the outer before I wash the whole thing but I think its probably too bad for that alas.
 
Can you get a German soap called Pepede here? It's part of the product line in bright orange containers. I've always used this to wash sheepskin and been very pleased with the results.
 
Im the same as measles, mine is always bunged in the washing machine along with saddle cloths/brushing boots etc and never had a problem?

I use strangles horse washing liquid (we had a strangles out break at the yard and had some left over from washing my kit and it brings everything up really nicely) - I cant use my normal everyday human detergent as brings my horse out in lumps.

I sometimes give the fluff a quick brush once its dry but otherwise thats it........
 
Mattes make a product called "Melp" which is especially designed for washing sheepskin and wool. Stephen's also make a product called "Soapy Suds" which is also very good.

Or you can use old fashioned soap flakes which I use for wool rugs, just boil the kettle add to the soap flakes in a jug, stir until dissolved, then when cooled slightly pour into the powder drawer in your washing machine when the cycle starts. Works a treat! :)

NB - remember to always use the wool program on your washer! ;)
 
I put lots of cheap (human) hair conditioner. (Tesco value!) and rub it well in & wash on 30 degrees. Then 10 /15 mins in the tumble dryer fluffs it straight back up again! Like new :D
 
I use the Woof Wear Woofie brush to clean the hair and loosen the matted sweaty sheepskin and then soak in warm water with Pure Collections Cashmere Care, rinse in warm water and spin then leave to dry naturally. It leaves the sheepskin wonderfully soft and fluffy!
 
DON'T use Vanish anywhere near it :eek: its lethal on wool and sheepskin!

Assuming from what you've said its a wool one rather than sheepskin use a liquid detergent designed for wool ie woolite, stergene, boots own etc and wash it like a wool jumper in the machine. Give it an extra spin to get some of the moisture out then dry naturally. Don't turn it upside to down to dry it unless it has a gulley down the spine as that can cause the wool to split near the seam.

Wouldn't bother with conditioner if its wool rather than sheepskin, it doesn't make much difference to them :)
 
Oldmare, being dense here but can you clarify the difference between wool and sheepskin - is it just whether there is skin attached? I have the Lemieux half-lined pad which is merino. Last time I checked that's a sheep :p so is this one wool rather than sheepskin just because there is no backing. If so, why would you not need to bother with conditioner? Or is it to do with weather it's spun or something before being attached?

Apologies if that sounds rude, tis not meant to, I'm genuinely puzzled. And new to dead-sheep! I have loads of Icebreaker clothing ie merino, and they all go in a normal 40deg cycle with my other clothes.
 
A capful of White vinegar in the soap dispenser of your washing machine is very good for getting the wool clean.
 
now_loves_mares said:
Oldmare, being dense here but can you clarify the difference between wool and sheepskin - is it just whether there is skin attached? I have the Lemieux half-lined pad which is merino. Last time I checked that's a sheep :p so is this one wool rather than sheepskin just because there is no backing. If so, why would you not need to bother with conditioner? Or is it to do with weather it's spun or something before being attached?

Apologies if that sounds rude, tis not meant to, I'm genuinely puzzled. And new to dead-sheep! I have loads of Icebreaker clothing ie merino, and they all go in a normal 40deg cycle with my other clothes.
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I can't read oldmare's mind but there is a difference between caring for the ones with the hide attached and the ones that are wool on a fabric backing. Mine is hide backed (positively antique now!) and needs particular care to keep the hide from drying out and cracking or the hair to pull out. I think many of the newer ones are much hardier beasts.

I do all my tech clothes in tech wash (specifically not a detergent) mainly because I water proof most of them, too, which won't work if you use detergent. I do find they last longer and wear better. I even do the dog's jumpers in it. :). But that's mostly because I'm sad. :D
 
Yes that's right, both sheepskin and wool/lambswool are 100% the wool but one is still on the skin and the other has been removed and woven onto a fabric backing. (Neither to be confused with the synthetic ones!) Both wool and sheepskin, in our experience, perform v similarly in terms of absorption and cushioning.

The wool/lambswool ones can be washed up to 40 degrees without any problems (there's really only 1 supplier of the wool so I'm pretty confident of that irrespective of the make;) )

Liquid non-bio (ideally designed for wool or sheepskin) is the key as powders can clog the fibres of both sheepskin and wool/lambswool giving it that clumpy sheeplike look :D

We make mostly wool/lambswool but make sheepskin ones for 2 saddle manufacturers and while hair conditioner helps on the sheepskin we haven't found it makes much difference at all on the wool/lambswool. But it won't hurt it either. It can help keep the skin supple on the sheepskin so worth using on them.

Best thing for rejuvinating the fluffyness of either is to use one of those wire cat/dog brushes and brush it when its dry

Sorry hope I don't sound preachy, but care is so important to keeping them looking great and lasting a long time :)

NB Vanish is a killer for both, even more so the skin than the wool!
 
I use soapy suds and smother the pile in Pantene smooth and sleek consitioner before they go on a wool cycle, hang to dry indoors not near heat, and then I just rub my hand through to plump up and loosen the pile they always come out looking like new!
 
This is all great, thank you everone, I currently have 4, three skin attached, one woven wool, it is that one that needs washing so I will try the woolite and a cool wash and report back - and don't worry - I won't let vanish near it!
 
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