Correct fit - Hunt Coat

[Hanno Verian]

Just a quickie, I seem to be having a big problem getting a gents hunt coat to fit me as I appear to be outside of the standard sizings. I'm 6' tall with fairly broad shoulders/chest but a narrow waist, I normally need a long fitting for arm length and the waist to be correctly seated.

As a temporary measure I've got a Caldene 42" coat, although the sleeve length is a touch short, the waist is way too high, the twin buttons being in the small of my back rather than roughly belt level.

Can anyone confirm for me the correct position of the two buttons either side of the rear vent, in relation to the belt of my breeches when standing, plus how long should the sleeves be. To me I was expecting them to go for the military length of "base of thumb" to first thumb knuckle. With the bottom of the skirt of the jacket being about 1/3 of the way down my thigh.

I've had a good look around, at the moment I wear a Mears tweed which fits adequately, but when I looked at their off the peg range of hunt coats and asked about back length, the jackets all came up too short based on my expectation of where the two rear buttons should sit.

Can anyone offer any suggestions that doesn't involve going down the bespoke route and am I correct in my perception of how it should fit/sit?

 

[tractor]

My buttons sit on my waist - perhaps very slightly above. I think buttons at belt level would look a bit low once you were on a horse?

Although slightly cheeky, could you perhaps speak to a "made to measure" person and see if they will answer your queries? My coat is from Bernard Weatherill, made to measure a good few years ago and still fits amazingly!

Hope that helps, I'm sure someone else will have a better answer!

 

[Steeleydan]

Berbard Weatherall are fantastic made to measure hunt coats might be a tad expensive, Alexander James in Manchester do MTM and are reasonably priced.

 

[Hanno Verian]

I must admit I had looked at Alexander James, I bought a GF a hunt from there a few years back after seeing their stand at Badminton.

I might see if I can make a dash into there next time I'm passing by Manchester

 

[Steeleydan]

I think Alexander James have a website, also they have a stand at the Festival of hunting at Peterboro in the summer.

 

[boneo]

Try Frank Halls in Market Harborough, they often have second hand hunt coats for sale at reasonable prices, I sold mine through them. They also make them, so could alter anything to fit.

 

[Paddydou]

Hanno - next time you are playing pop into Calcutts (Sutton Scotney near Winchester just off of Bullington Cross on A34/ A303).

They will sort you out with something that fits perfectly.

 

[Hanno Verian]

Thanks for the suggestions...I'd tried a number of the vintage/second hand places, sometimes you can make a real find in coates bespoke tailoring from the 50's or so. Although my problem being that people on average are significantly taller now then 50 yrs ago or so.

I must try the Uppingham Dress agency, if they strill have a hunting section!

 

[rosie fronfelen]

Hanno - next time you are playing pop into Calcutts (Sutton Scotney near Winchester just off of Bullington Cross on A34/ A303).

They will sort you out with something that fits perfectly.

Another vote for Calcutts, have just ordered a new waistcoat from them, they are not cheap but will come up with the goods, and the customer service is second to none.

 

[Hanno Verian]

Oh dear looks like the bespoke route it is then.....

 

[Kat]

You could go for a bit of a half way house between genuine bespoke and off the peg. Ask around in local country tailors you may find that they will do alterations or do one of their standard designs to your measurements.

DH had his tweed made up by brocklehursts of bakewell and the tailor there is very knowledgeable about fit.

Personally I think you may be confused about where you waist sits. Modern trousers tend to be low waisted, and many people think their waist is lower than it actually is, your rear buttons should be at your waist, which is roughly level with your belly button or up to about an inch above.

 

[k9h]

Ditto what Katt says.

Also rear buttons should on be placed on a waited coat. (One which has a stiched seam around the waist).
My blue coat does not have them & so does not have rear buttons! Bt my red coats do, so do have buttons!