Does anyone have any experience of check-chains/prongs?

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madadrama

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(I'm really not trying to be confrontational, so apologies in advance, purely interested)

Dh used a check on a boxer dog (back in the 90's) and it was the only thing that would deter her pulling.
I've never used one, so can't comment.

I have read through a few of the older threads on here in regards to (mostly) check chains. Mixed response! But very old threads.
Does anyone have any good or bad experience of using either of the above?
 
That’s how I train all my labs I use a rope one .
They all have walked or do walk beautifully on the lead , as soon as they understand what’s correct I just use a normal leader .
I prefer the choke in situations where I want to let them off the lead quickly or when I have them on and off all the time .
 
Goldenstar said:
That’s how I train all my labs I use a rope one .
They all have walked or do walk beautifully on the lead , as soon as they understand what’s correct I just use a normal leader .
I prefer the choke in situations where I want to let them off the lead quickly or when I have them on and off all the time .
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In my mind a choke chain is a chain, and a rope one a slip lead? I use slip leads now, I used to use choke chains.
Some trainers say the chain is kinder as it gives audible warning that it is tightening. On a confirmed puller I would use a slip lead set up as a figure of eight, it is easy to pop on and off as they learn. Also a slip lead (or choke chain) needs to be fitted the right way up and in the right place on their neck.
I have never had to deal with an adult dog that pulls like a train or becomes uncontrollable at certain things, so can't say if they would have a place there. I wouldn't use a prong collar, although I've never actually seen one in the flesh, they sound awful.
 
Would you say a check chain is a decent tool to be used in training heel work? Or something to have as a 'reminder' for a dog that's almost fully trained in it? I hope that makes sense!
 
Like Clodagh I have never dealt with a confirmed adult puller that’s because I train my dogs young and it’s never an issue .
If I did I think I would try a chain mainly because I understand the system so it would easy for me .
Haiti type things look sensible when you have problem as well because if you have control of the dogs head it can’t get far .
 
Goldenstar said:
Like Clodagh I have never dealt with a confirmed adult puller that’s because I train my dogs young and it’s never an issue .
If I did I think I would try a chain mainly because I understand the system so it would easy for me .
Haiti type things look sensible when you have problem as well because if you have control of the dogs head it can’t get far .
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I really hate haltis! Dogs always look so fed up in them.
 
Whenever I've had a serious puller and needed to re-train (rescue job) I started by teaching a 'stay close' off lead with the lead attached to a flat collar, but wrapped around the dog's neck. Withhold meals if necessary, ideally habituate to a clicker and then teach dog the snout nudge to the back of the hand. Then use the back of the hand extended as the cue/barrier.....loads of rewards with high quality food and fuss. Needs to be done in a sterile environment, then for the distractions to be added. When this is 100% pick up the lead.

If it has been proven to me that the dog fully understands the cues and is just taking the proverbial, then he/she is introduced to the 'wrath of god'. The caveats to this are: previous owner and I are using same cues, dog is comfortable with me and has been with me for a little while and is relaxed and behaving in other circumstance.

I haven't used a prong collar, but have used a large link choke chain. Dog soon twigged that the noise pre-empted a correction. Again, it came back to: does the dog truly understand what is being asked and if dog is not complying, do I truly understand why it is not. Then, if appropriate, introduce P+. Look at your body language too - especially if dog is behaving for one handler and not another.

If distractions (game scent) are the reason for misbehaving, then make good lead work the pre-req for being allowed off-lead to hunt.
 
rabatsa said:
I have used check chains on my GSD's. It is a lot like bits, it is not the collar itself that is bad but the hands that use it.
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I agree, used properly a check chain can be useful - but you have to be taught, its not a piece of equipment to wing it with.

I saw a prong collar once - on a stall at Crufts of all places! I thought it looked horrific and could never use one of those.
 
We tried haltis on the JRTs, that was an epic fail, they both hated them and one spent all her time walking on her back legs, trying to get the halti off her nose!

We used fig 8's on the Rotters, to great effect. The cone shape of their necks mean that collars and leads can just pull over the ears anyway, so we used harnesses with alead attached and slip-leads as fig 8 to teach not to pull and as an emergency back-up.

We started the Lab pups with harnesses and leads but yesterday, I tried a slip lead on one of them and she understood immediately what was expected. That is the route we shall go down.

We have used chains in the past to teach Labs to walk to heel but progressed to slip leads when they became more widely available.
 
I have heard of dogs having had their throat soft tissue damaged by chains, by rough handlers (I once saw an ex police trainer LIFT up a GSD by the chain in a training class). I imagine they have their place but my opinion is if your timing is good enough to use one properly you probably don't have need of one. *dons tin hat*
 
Off topic (I know, me again), I taught Ffee to heel without using a lead, which I have never done before. I think someone on here suggested it.
It worked really well and she has a good heel, trouble is I forgot to get her used to the lead and she only ever wore it to go to the vets so for a while the sight of it made her collapse on her back. :-) Many treats and better association and she is over that now.
 
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