Electric fence help please

[JillA]

For those who know about electric fencing.
I have a rope main line running from the energiser, along outside a building, across the end of the muck heap space and then at right angles onto a line which feeds on to the system of main line and off shoots. The problem I have is where the rope across the back of the muck heap joins the line along the fence, at right angles. (With me so far??)
That right angle has been various things, because I need it to disconnect and open when the muck heap is being cleared, but whatever I use to make that connection always seems to fail before long. Tape gate - didn't connect well and the rope burned out where it was doubled through the tape gate end loop. Metal connector - again the rope burned out where it was bent back on itself make the link. Tied rope onto rope - again it burned out because it must have been shorting slightly, I have even kept moving the place where it attached, and bridged it with a short piece of wire, but it always fails.
So is there a correct way to do it? It is at the start of the system so when that fails none of the rest is live - and of course the horses take about 3 minutes to suss that out!
A (new) Blackberry and elderflower Pimms to anyone who can solve the puzzle

 

[Cahill]

I have never had any burn out ever and mine has knots,loops and twizzles .
sorry-no help

 

[Suelin]

Do you need that bit to actually shock or keep things in/out? If you don't then you might do better to use a lead out cable that you can bury in a piece of water pipe under the place you have made the gate and out again to join to the actual fence bit. That way you don't have to keep doing it up/undoing all the time and the connection will be permanent. If that makes sense and I have understood you properly.

 

[JillA]

Thanks both. Yes, I do need that bit to be a barrier Suelin, they could mosey through onto the yard if they clambered over the muck heap - and my lot probably would!

 

[PaddyMonty]

Why not run a buried line out to main fencing as well. That way if the muck heap bit fails the rest will still be live.

 

[ILuvCowparsely]

For those who know about electric fencing.
I have a rope main line running from the energiser, along outside a building, across the end of the muck heap space and then at right angles onto a line which feeds on to the system of main line and off shoots. The problem I have is where the rope across the back of the muck heap joins the line along the fence, at right angles. (With me so far??)
That right angle has been various things, because I need it to disconnect and open when the muck heap is being cleared, but whatever I use to make that connection always seems to fail before long. Tape gate - didn't connect well and the rope burned out where it was doubled through the tape gate end loop. Metal connector - again the rope burned out where it was bent back on itself make the link. Tied rope onto rope - again it burned out because it must have been shorting slightly, I have even kept moving the place where it attached, and bridged it with a short piece of wire, but it always fails.
So is there a correct way to do it? It is at the start of the system so when that fails none of the rest is live - and of course the horses take about 3 minutes to suss that out!
A (new) Blackberry and elderflower Pimms to anyone who can solve the puzzle

we don't use the fence tape anymore as i found it harder to work with, we use the rope. We now never cut the rope but just go back and forth along the top to use up the spare so it never has connections you cant see in the picture but 5 strands run along the top of the post and 5 lower rows make the fence and run along where we want to go then stop one post out then make a separate doorway out of tap so its easily used and just connect it to the power supply. I find the more breaks etc the less power.

we use tape just for the entrance and put a post against the shelter or one of the metal connectors

The reason I don't cut is as above you always next time make a different size corral for the ponies and this way the rope is always the size you want and use just go back and forth with superfluous.


With your case i would do similar and make a separate entrance by a post on each side of muckhill area and have the hook end so it hooks over the rest when muckhill not removed and it feeds from the rope part it hooks to.. Hard to explain on site but post here with live feed
:-----:----:----: <:---:--I
tape going back here to hook to the rest when entranced closed wall post

 

[Dry Rot]

Do you need that bit to actually shock or keep things in/out? If you don't then you might do better to use a lead out cable that you can bury in a piece of water pipe under the place you have made the gate and out again to join to the actual fence bit. That way you don't have to keep doing it up/undoing all the time and the connection will be permanent. If that makes sense and I have understood you properly.

Jill, the above actually makes perfect sense and what I have on all my gateways, even where there are wooden or steel gates. You bury your cable under the gateway in a length of polythene water pipe (no need to use lead out cable as the pipe acts as an insulator). Then use either the spring or electrified bungy cord gate for the gateway. The electricity supply to your fence system is never disconnected. Obviously, you "open" the spring/bungy gate by taking hold of the insulated handle and unclipping it. I have this arrangement on the small enclosure where I store the haylage bales and it works well. The circuit is continued under "normal" gateways by using the water pipe idea.

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rc...oWuMp2A4M-4yiB14fO0EapTg&ust=1401350486445847

 

[Suelin]

Would it be worth changing the electric for permanent fencing and a gate there then? My muck heap is behind a post and stocknetting fence and gate and the trackway through to it is behind an electric fence so that we don't get mugged by "helpful" ponios on our way to the heap.

 

[JillA]

Your post about the lead out cable gave me an idea this morning Suelin - I can find a couple of feet of it so rope to a post within 2 feet of the right angled line, then lead-out cable between the two. I didn't have time this morning but that will give them too narrow a gap to squeeze through and should keep a good connection - save the expense of a buried cable which would have to buried really deep to prevent damage by the tractor emptying the heap. Thanks - will update later

 

[Suelin]

Oh good. glad you've got some idea of where to go next. It's maddening when all of one's good ideas keep failing. (Don't I know it!!) Lead out cable isn't expensive to buy either, I have some on order now for my next project. Look forward to hearing that you've got the problem cracked.

 

[Mananzwa]

The description of the gate is the best way to go about it. When you join any tape or rope you should bare about 1inch of the metal filaments and twist those together to get a proper connection. If ALL filaments are not connected then the resistance increases from that point on as not all the filaments will be carrying electricity.

If your energiser is a strong one on a short fence, this may be causing the burning where there is a poor connection