Feeding advice for putting condition on a TB

mbf938

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Hello

I am looking for some advice re getting condition on a TB. I have an 11 year old 15.2hh TB who weighed 480KG approx 2 weeks ago (weigh tape).

Bought her two months ago and she has lost a bit of weight. Feeding her the same feeds her previous owner fed her (Allen and Page Calm and Condition 1.5kg per day, 500g Alfa A per day and I have started adding now up to half cup of vegetable oil and salt). I bring her in every other day for 12 hours on ad lib haylage as her grass is poor although she is now on new grazing (fingers crossed it does the trick!).

Work-wise she is ridden 6 times per week - 1.5-2 hour hacks 4 days per week which includes fast work and hills, 30-60 mins jumping, schooling or riding club rallies (with a 4 mile round trip to the venue as no transport) the other 2 days. Bought for RC and hopefully a bit of hunting over winter.

I have gotten advice from various feed companies - most advice has been balancer and Alfa A Oil (or something similar from their own range) so I may try this but looking for suggestions. She is laid back, but was bred to race and was in training as a youngster.

Thanks!
 
Have you considered gastric ulcers or HGA? The stress of moving home could easily have triggered them off. If she has them it probably wont make too much difference how much expensive feed you shovel into her! Does she show any other signs of ulcers?

If you've ruled out ulcers my first port of call would be ad lib high quality forage at all times (grass and/or haylage not hay). Micronised linseed is a very useful way of adding calories and omega fatty acids without bulking out the ration (and reasonable price wise) and can be added to grass nuts or alfa alfa nuts etc. I like to feed straights as then I know exactly what they are getting, never been a fan of 'complete' feeds. Feeding straights means its much easier to tweek diets to suit individuals and changing circumstances. Plenty of vit and mineral supplements to choose from if you're concerned she might be missing out on micro-nutrients.
 
Yes, also do a roundworm count and the tapeworm saliva test ........ Westgate labs will advise.
It depends how she looks, as with quite a lot of fast work compared to her previous workload she may have lost fat, maybe do more slow work to build muscle mass.
If the skin is healthy and she seems alert, I would not worry too much unless she has been losing more than a kilo per week, but any weight loss due to change in work should level out now.
I like micronised linseed [ less processed than oil], also non molassed beet [soaked qickbeet] and bruised oats, salt and minerals.
 
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I agree with all the previous suggestions but I found that lots of prepared conditioning feeds didn't work on one horse. The horse was not in full work as yours is but the only feed that helped weight gain was copra. I know it has to be balanced and you will need to add energy feed for your horse, but it's just a thought.
 
I had a TB who would not put weight on for love nor money due to undiagnosed inflammatory bowel disease.

I eventually got him up to a decent weight using alfa oil, saracen's releve and equijewel when additional calories needed. I fed him 3 times a day and he had ad lib haylage. It didn't make him fizzy.

I agree re worming, and also checking teeth.

Hopefully Dr Green will kick in soon :)
 
I always start with forage, you say that she has dropped weight despite giving the same short feed and the grass is poor so that is probably your answer. I have 2 tbs, one a better doer than the other but both need lots of good quality forage. If the grass is short I have to make sure they get enough hay/haylage to compensate and every other day in their case would not be enough. If living out then I would be putting hay out in the field. If this is not possible due to other horses then bring in every day to eat.

Now you have moved fields, you will probably be fine but bear this in mind for when the grass gets short.

Feedwise I like Copra too as a feed (maybe instead of the Calm and Condition) and like Bonkers would be inclined to replace the the oil with micronised linseed which has better balanced omega oils than vegetable. Then just add an all round mineral supplement.
 
Thanks all - sorry for the late reply!

Up to date with worming - no issues there, and no ulcers. She has now been put on different grazing and the weight she lost is now nearly back on but I will probably change her to Top Spec Comprehensive balancer with Speedi Beet and Alfa A for winter as the grazing will be poor again then. If this isn't enough, will add oil, then Top Spec Cool Condition cubes (I spoke to every feed company I could think of and this advice makes the most sense to me to start off with) if still loses weight as will be clipped and competing every weekend or fortnight then.

Given that she was coming in every day or every other day for 12 hours on ad lib haylage (and I mean ad lib - enough so that some was always left when I came back up) before she moved fields, if the grazing is poor over winter then her hard feed has to do more for her but I can only feed her twice a day so making sure it is concentrated with calories but low starch, high fibre is going to be key I think. She's out out at grass 24/7 and doing fine now she has better grazing.

Not possible to put hay/haylage out in the field at my livery yard, I am afraid so that will not be an option.
 
Rice bran has fat and fiber (bonus, the "stabilised" variety will have vitamin E to prevent spoilage, and this makes a very shiny coat), and beet pulp, soaked and rinsed have been the best for TB's I know.
 
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