Fencing ideas

[Jacksie]

Having started with some temporary fencing, I’m now ready to invest in something more permanent and move away from using electric. I know half posts will be cheaper than other post and rail options but is there any difference in how long they are likely to last? Also what sort of gates do people use if using the half post option? Thanks

 

[Polos Mum]

Irrespective of fencing you'll need proper sturdy gate posts to hang a gate off - worth having a well hung gate to reduce faffing getting them in and out when its raining / blowing a gale / snowing / flies biting them (other reason for silly fuss at gates!)

I personally love the tornado horse netting - ours has been up 7 years in some places and it looks as if it was put up yesterday. Nil maintenance.
I have one that trashes post and rail - no matter how expensive it was and we used to spend a couple of hours a week repairing it !

Will you be installing or a professional - netting is difficult to properly tension without the right kit

In terms of durability pressure treated posts will last longer than treated by painted on but those will be better than untreated.

Old fashioned creosote is really bad for you so not much is treated to really last. We're replacing the last of the posts we inherited when moving here and they are at least 35 years in the ground - I don't expect the replacement ones to last that long sadly.

 

[Abacus]

I’ve always found the half posts are more likely to wobble and be less stable even before they rot. We have square posts around the boundary for post and rail, with round posts and fence guard electric (the thick type) to divide the fields. I put the latter in 8 years ago, and earlier this year had to replace one length of the tape thanks to a pony that repeatedly crashed through it. The rest has remained good.

 

[ihatework]

I’ve been having a lot of head thoughts and conversations recently!! I’ve got 6 acres to fence and what with everything else that needs money spending on, the fencing will need to have some elements of economy on it!

I think I’ve settled on spending on decent posts in corners, gates and mid section on the long stretches, but interspersing with half rounds for the bulk of the posts. Over time as the half rounds need replacing I may well upgrade one post at a time but just can’t justify £££ at the moment, unfortunately

 

[Patterdale]

Half rounds are very poor economy as they will be unstable and therefore destabilise the rest of the fence over time, and they will rot sooner.
The only time I’d suggest half rounds is when used with good electric, or as an interim as @ihatework says.
Your fence line plan, strainers and struts need to be tip top so spend money there.

What kind of fencing are you going for?
- Tornado wire is good, but it’s expensive and does not work well on small hills….does not work AT ALL on steep slopes. Worth considering.
- post and 4 rail with square intermediates is the best really, with a line of electric on the top to stop them rubbing on it. But again, expensive.
- Horserail is also good but depends on your set up and if you also want the field sheep proof. As it won’t be with horse rail.
- stock netting I wouldn’t do.

You can throw a lot of good money after bad on a poor fence, so whatever you decide I’d get a few quotes then stick with electric until you have enough for what you want permanently.

N.b. fencing company co-owner. My own fences are crap/to be completed

 

[Goldenstar]

The best economy is the best fencing put in by the best fencer protected by electric on both sides .
I have been here long enough to have replaced one fence three times it was the cheapest job when we did it first time and it was a false economy .
We still have 35 year old sections of the more expensive job .
The last field I did we used horse net type wire mesh with a rail on top and electric to the inside it’s not as pretty as post and rails but I like it.

 

[Jacksie]

Thanks all. I’ll be getting someone in to install it. It’s for the summer field only, which is heavy clay but flat. I don’t need to sheep proof and am thinking of a post and rail option but given the cost am keen to economise but don’t want to make a poor investment. Lots of good ideas and advice here already, thanks all

 

[Goldenstar]

İME you need a net type solution where you have horses and sheep .

 

[ILuvCowparsely]

Having started with some temporary fencing, I’m now ready to invest in something more permanent and move away from using electric. I know half posts will be cheaper than other post and rail options but is there any difference in how long they are likely to last? Also what sort of gates do people use if using the half post option? Thanks

shame we don't have these panels. https://www.horsefencing.org/horsefence/horse-corral-panels.html

 

[dorsetladette]

Are you putting the fencing in by hand OP or having a contractor/tractor do it? Half rounds tend to turn if the hit a rock or harder bit of ground so you end up with the flat bit being wonky against the rail.

I've had to replace a lot of fencing after a horrible livery (horse) trashed everything. I've used round posts every 12 feet with two strands of the 40mm brown electric tape. It looks smart. As I have available finance I'll get the 'in between' posts put in and then add a top rail (replace the top electric) to complete it.

Gates definitely need hanging properly for ease and your safety.

 

[Jacksie]

Def getting someone in to do it. I have a feeling it’s not as easy as it may look

I’m hoping to get gates that swing both ways

 

[PeterNatt]

I tend to use Post and Rail Fencing with Equi-Fencing attached to it to prevent horses from kicking through the fence line and also dogs getting in.
I get the work carried out by professional contractors.
We use treated Posts (Jacksons) and rails.
Some of the fencing that I have had installed is 30 years old and still in good condition.
Most fo my gates are 12 Foot Wooden Gates and those I ride through have Equine friendly lathches and handles on them.

 

[blitznbobs]

I use squareposts with half round rails with electric rope on the inside with extended insulators on the perimeter then divide with electric tape on round wooden poles… works well unless the “destroyer cob 2000” is in the field with a rug on then nothing can stop him.

I use metal gates as I have a lot of youngsters and they seem to think wooden gates are delicious

 

[Jacksie]

I think my mare is related to your cob Blitznbobs Not much stops her greed either!

 

[CPayne]

Definitely creosoted wood, the new treatment only lasts a few years in the ground before it rots. My first creosoted fencing here I put in 13 years ago and I haven’t lost a post yet. The new posts that I bought from the local fencing place for the corners of my electric I’ve lost at least three of and they were the large diameter ones and only 3-5 years old. McVeigh Parker sell creosoted wood, round and square, as do Calders and Grandidge, depending on where you are in the country. I have tornado fencing with a top rail for the perimeter fence and variously two, three and four rail post and rail for internal fencing, depending on sheep and Shetland. As someone else said, the tornado fencing is great for keeping dogs out, and mine in! I do still have some electric tape, but it’s all on creosoted round posts now so more permanent. Gates wise, wooden look nice, but metal are more practical. They’re lighter so don’t drop as much and no splinters. I have the ones with mesh at the bottom so baby horses can’t put their feet through. Good luck with your project.

 

[FFAQ]

Just wondering if anyone here has used horse rail? I too need to replace my fence and am thinking about horse rail where we back on to private woodland so that the deer can still get in and out, and something like tornado fencing where we back on to the bridleway to keep dogs out.

 

[Exasperated]

Definitely creosoted wood, the new treatment only lasts a few years in the ground before it rots. My first creosoted fencing here I put in 13 years ago and I haven’t lost a post yet. The new posts that I bought from the local fencing place for the corners of my electric I’ve lost at least three of and they were the large diameter ones and only 3-5 years old. McVeigh Parker sell creosoted wood, round and square, as do Calders and Grandidge, depending on where you are in the country. I have tornado fencing with a top rail for the perimeter fence and variously two, three and four rail post and rail for internal fencing, depending on sheep and Shetland. As someone else said, the tornado fencing is great for keeping dogs out, and mine in! I do still have some electric tape, but it’s all on creosoted round posts now so more permanent. Gates wise, wooden look nice, but metal are more practical. They’re lighter so don’t drop as much and no splinters. I have the ones with mesh at the bottom so baby horses can’t put their feet through. Good luck with your project.

Metal gates with half mesh across the bottom, definitely! And if you don’t want mesh for some reason (?), then tubular metal with ONLY vertical and horizontal spars.
Wooden gates invariably have diagonal bracings, which create very hazardous ‘triangles’ that a horse can easily get a hoof stuck in. Neighbour’s hunter broke its fetlock like that, awful.

 

[PeterNatt]

I had wooden Post and Rail Fencing with Equi-Fencing added on it (in case horses kicked through the fence line or dogs tried getting through) about 30 years ago and it is still going strong. Also used wooden gates. Best investment ever. Easy to add electric fencing to it if you have a horse that chews or rubs against the fencing.

 

[Landcruiser]

I would strongly advise against half rounds, especially on clay. As the ground dries in summer it shrinks away from the posts making them wobbly. Even full rounds get wobbly, but tend to stay put and not lean so much. We put in some temporary post and rail with half rounds around a poly-tunnel, it needed several repairs the first season and only lasted 2 yrs - the horses put their heads through and pushed it reaching for grass.
I second calls for creosote posts if you can get them. We have lost several new gate posts which have rotted off at the bottom after 2-3 years. The gnarly old oak ones which pre date us by about 50 yrs will probably still be there long after we have gone. As will the ones we've made from cut telegraph poles concreted in. They make the absolute best gate posts and corner posts if you can get them.

 

[PinkvSantaboots]

I have post and rail separating my 2 fields and I still have to electric tape it at the top or Louis destroys the posts his broke the top planks off several times trying to get to the grass.

So I would only have just posts and rail if there is nothing to entice them the other side now.

 

[ILuvCowparsely]

Having started with some temporary fencing, I’m now ready to invest in something more permanent and move away from using electric. I know half posts will be cheaper than other post and rail options but is there any difference in how long they are likely to last? Also what sort of gates do people use if using the half post option? Thanks

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