ColleenIsh
Well-Known Member
QUITE funny in parts lol ... was looking up tips and what have you and came across this .....
Showing weanlings and yearlings in halter classes requires an enormous amount of homework and nerves of steel. The better prepared you are to walk into the arena, under scrutiny of the judge (and all the ringside judges), the better the show experience will go for you and the youngster.
For those babies destined for the show ring, their homework should generally start around 72 hours of age. For the yearling (whether having been shown as a weanling or being prepared for its debut), the winter months provide a good opportunity for training. For the person handling the youngster, the homework is seemingly never-ending as it encompasses all the factors involved in showing the youngster, from care and feeding right on through remembering to pin the number on your back.
There are as many variations to showing as there are people showing. There is no One Way to Show. Each person will have his or her own style, and as he/she enters the arena for judging, on the end of that lead rope is a very individualistic horse.
There are, however, a couple of points that apply to every exhibitor:
Be prepared.
Know your job.
Whine only in the privacy of your trailer.
BUT FIRST, A WORD ABOUT JUDGES
Judging horses would be easy if it were an objective thing, with a little checklist that read: Two ears (yes or no). Two eyes (yes or no). Four legs (yes or no). But it isn't. It is highly subjective. It is an opinion. This opinion is based on studying conformation and performance, training and showing their own stock or others' stock, and having looked at and evaluated hundreds or thousands of horses. It is what is called a "learned opinion."
And despite rumors to the contrary, judges are human.
Judges bring with them into the arena their knowledge and their preferences. I, for one, do not care for blue eyes. But if the best horse in the class happens to have blue eyes, I pin that horse accordingly. There are things a judge can overlook (personal preferences that don't affect soundness or ability), but there are some things that no judge can ignore, such as crooked legs.
Being human, the judge also takes into account the manner in which the horse is shown. This is not to say that the turn-out of horse and handler is the primary factor the judge looks at, but the overall picture certainly plays a role in the judge's decisions. A good handler enhances a good horse; an inept handler can ruin a good horse's chance of placing. (There are a number of ways to polish your presentation of your horse, and many of those will be discussed below.)
BEING PREPARED: START AT THE BEGINNING
First, the youngster has to lead. This may initially seem like an obvious component to showing in any in-hand class, but a well-behaved horse at the end of a lead rope is a learned skill. Leading quietly consists of more than just going from Point A to Point B. The horse must be attentive to the handler, perform at the required gait on cue, and do it all without being in the handler's pocket. Especially at the noisy, action-packed show grounds, the young horse will be interested in all the strange goings-on, and is likely to discover lots of wonderful things to scare himself with. The "safe place," therefore, is as close to his handler as possible. It is only through much handling and lead work at home that the baby learns the trust necessary to move or stand a distance from the handler under all conditions.
Second, the judge expects the suckling or weanling to be alert and "full of it," but also under control. Because of the limited attention span of the babies, judges try to work fast and quietly. When with a baby on the end of the lead rope, you must be prepared for anything, at any moment. Judges, too, have to be on their toes in a baby class because one never knows what the next second holds. The weanling standing perfectly still until the judge walks behind it to evaluate the backside will, at that moment, 1) turn to look at the Judge, 2) kick the Judge, 3) nip his handler, 4) rear up, 5) pass gas, 6) poop, or 7) all of the above. (Be prepared. Have a sense of humor. And get the baby back under control!)
Yearlings, on the other hand, are expected to behave and be under control at all times in the show arena. The yearling is not expected to stand statue-still for the entire length of the class, but is expected to promptly assume its straight stance when asked. When the handler cues for a trot, the yearling should move out on a straight line without being pulled, urged, or chased around. When a halt is requested, it should occur promptly. And yearlings are expected to stand quietly for evaluation without taking the opportunity to sniff the judge, taste the clipboard, or chew the lead rope.
The biggest point in handling the youngster in the show arena is the ability to keep the critter under control, or in a worst-case scenario, get the horse back under control quickly. This is done only through lots and lots and lots of homework. Many factors play into this training, so it doesn't need to be a scheduled 20-minute-a-day halter training situation. But it does need to be a consistent handling, complete with expectations met.
GROOMING
Grooming is the most valuable and versatile training tool. Besides the obvious benefits of grooming, the horse learns how to stand quietly and how to tolerate all sorts of being fiddled with (from having his ears handled right though having his tail braided). He also becomes accustomed to things being flopped around his body rags, blankets, lycra hoods, hoses, electric cord, lead ropes, and the inevitable flying brush. (Which, in turn, helps him get used to you reaching around his legs as you pick up that brush.) The young horse learns the basics of trust through the grooming regimen, associating the handler with things that feel good. For the human, grooming provides the means to become totally comfortable working near the horse. Bonding is best built with a curry comb.
Clipping the show baby should be part of the show preparation, but limited to the muzzle, the outer rim of the ears, and the bridle path. If the youngster has feathering, his fetlocks should also be trimmed as this gives a good, clean line to the leg. Some people body clip the foal to try to achieve a slick appearance, but it is not necessary. Too often the body clip occurs too close to show time and the clipper tracks are glaringly apparent, or the person clipping is not skilled at it and ends up with a baby looking like he was made of corduroy. The best way to achieve a slick, shiny coat is simply to brush the snot out of them.
Bathing baby: I don't see any reason to do this unless absolutely necessary. If the time brushing has been adequate, the baby is clean. Okay, for Appaloosas with white-and-green areas, bathing is appropriate. To make this less traumatic for the weanling, try to use water that is not bone-chilling cold. You must also keep in mind that the baby's skin is tender, so you must be quite careful in your choice of shampoo and other grooming aids as they may be too harsh. One baby I know was washed with a whitening shampoo followed by an application of Show Sheen. She looked wonderful, but had a minor reaction to one or both items. She became so hypersensitive to touch that even a fly landing on her would send her into whole-body skin spasms.
For touch-up work, faces and noses, and cleaning under the tail (or even in lieu of bathing), diaper wipes are great. An added benefit is they are handy at the show grounds for wiping hands, faces, boots, and even for cleaning off the bird dropping on the truck windshield that will happen just as you are pulling out to head home.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS COUNT What to Wear?
For the horse, a well-chosen, well-fitted halter is essential. This does not mean it has to be an expensive or a silver-laden halter. For some horses, the less fancy the halter, the more attractive the head. Here are some guidelines for choosing the best halter for your horse.
Look at your horse. If he has a plain head, of plain coloring, a halter with do-dads may be your best choice. If your horse has color galore, a plain leather halter in a complimentary color will work well. If your horse has an exquisite head, you do not want lots of thick leather or big chunks of silver covering it up; a rolled-leather halter in the same color as your horse may be just the ticket. A finely-boned horse looks like it will topple over on its nose if the halter is too heavy, and the bulky horse will look a bit prissy in an Arabian-type, thin-chained halter and lead.
It is tough to pick the perfect halter. Your best bet is to either take your horse to the tack store (oh, what a wonderful opportunity to practice hauling and being in a strange place!) or develop a really good relationship with your local tack store so they trust you to walk off with a slew of halters to try on at home.
When you try on the halters, remember that show halters are not supposed to fit like stable halters. Show halters are not designed for grazing and hanging around. They should hug the face. The throat latch area should be snug and follow behind the jawline, not cut it in two. The part attaching the noseband and throat latch should not droop. The buckles should fall evenly on both sides, at a point between the ears and jaw. This attention to fit is especially critical when using a halter that draws attention to itself, such as sporting silver or contrasting leather work.
What if you are showing an English-type baby? There are Arabian halters in rolled leather, complete with browband and matching lead, that look like a bitless bridle. You can also opt for a thin (but well fitted) track halter.
It is important that the halter match the type of horse you show, and equally important that your dress match the halter type. If you have a Western show halter on baby, you wear Western show clothes. If you are presenting your colt as an English type horse, then in-hand or hunt seat clothing is appropriate.
For the human, clean and well fitted clothing is top priority. Again, this does not mean expensive or flashy. You need to focus your clothing choices on the type of horse you are showing, the color scheme that best compliments your horse, and fit.
"Fit" is probably the most fun to discuss. It doesn't matter whether you are male or female, unless you are a fashion model (and most of you aren't) tight pants and tops look bad. Very very bad. Breeches that are ready to split at the seams are truly frightening. I understand that it may be difficult to buy a pair of pants or a shirt that is a "larger size than one normally wears," but think of it as a necessary component of a specific costume. Buy something that fits in a complimentary way.
Western pants should have a nice drape to them, and the length should be to where the hem touches the ground when wearing your boots. The hem should not drag the ground, nor should it look like the extra yard in length is all bunched up to your knees. The fashions seen, particularly in the women's section of the western catalogs, are nice western fashions, but not necessarily appropriate show ring fashion.
Western shirts should be relatively sedate, and will look quite finished with a tie of some type. Fancy cut-work, fringes, bangles and sparklies are better suited for the barn dance than the show ring. There may be times, depending upon the horse's coloring, that some fancier adornment will set off the picture. I had a black mare with little chrome, and the only color in the "complete picture" was a subtle embroidered strand of ivy leaves on my shirt. With any other horse, this shirt would have looked ludicrous, but with her it was the perfect accent.
Jacket or vest or not? In great part, that depends on the weather. If it's chilly, a jacket or vest is wonderful. If it's 97 degrees and humid, a jacket or vest is a bit dumb. (After all, what type of a professional image will you have lying on the ground from fainting? And don't forget that while you are lying there, your weanling is probably not under the best of control.) For showing in-hand or English-type, a polo shirt or smart looking turtleneck over chinos (not jeans) and paddock boots present a good, all-weather basic outfit. In cool or cold weather, a blazer or hunt jacket is appropriate. However, avoid mixing the two types of dresscowboy boots and a hunt jacket do not present a professional image.
I cannot avoid mentioning glitter-clothes. Sequins, rhinestones, and other types of formal wear are certainly appropriate dress under specific conditions, and can present an eye-catching picture. First, the person must have the body type that looks good wearing such clothing. Second, night-time under lights is when it should be worn, not at 9 am on a Sunday morning, before the judge has coffee. These glitter clothes are the prom dresses of the show ring. I figure it this way: If your show outfit is something you would not wear to a church social, then it's probably not the best choice for the show ring, either.
Hats. First, they must stay on in the show ring. Oh my, you do not want your hat flying around, scaring the willies out the babies! Jamb that hat down if you must, but keep it on your head. Second, your hat must compliment your outfit and your face. Not just any old hat will do, either. Remember all the fun you had fitting a halter, finding the perfect one? Well, do the same with the hats. Ask your hat dealer for advice. Ask people whose opinions you value for advice. Try on lots and lots of hats. Once you have the right hat for you, set it squarely atop your head, about two finger-widths above your brow. Don't tilt it backward, don't pull it down. And this does, by the way, apply to both Western and English hats. Get the one that fits in all ways.
The color of your show outfit should compliment the horse without being overpowering or distracting. Your favorite color may look terrible next to your horse. Take a variety of fabric swatches out to the barn with you and hold them up next to the horse. It is amazing how even a small piece of the wrong color fabric will cause your horse's color to fade away, or simply clash with the subtle tones of the hair. When showing a flashy colored Appaloosa, the horse's pattern is best set off with subtle solid colors. For the more sedately colored horses, visual excitement can be created by a few smatterings of contrasting color, such as a tie and hat band.
Okay, you now have a clean baby sporting a perfect, well-fitted halter. You have your show duds onclean, ironed, starched. Your shoes are clean, your hat is set properly, and off you go to the show ring.
ARENA ETIQUETTE
Rule #1: Be on time for the gate. You may think trotting up to the gate, waving your hand and shouting, "I'm coming! Wait!" makes a noticeable entrance. It does. It isn't a favorable one, but it certainly is noticed! Listen for when your class is called, and be there ready to waltz on in.
Rule #2: Don't socialize. You are not out there to pass the time of day with the judge, with the other exhibitors, or anyone standing ringside. You have a job to dopresenting that baby in its best light for the judge's evaluation. You should remain focused, calm, and in control every moment.
Rule #3: Know the rules under which you are showing. For halter, the walk, trot, and stand are the required components. The judge must see a walk and a trot to be able to evaluate movement. The judge must be able to walk around the calm horse to judge conformation. If your youngster doesn't cooperate on that day, and you don't place, it wasn't the judge's fault.
Rule #4: Be prepared for anything. This means you must remain alert, not only as it relates to your colt's position and behavior, but his lightning-quick reactions to a variety of stimuli. What happens when some spectator's two-year-old child decides to slip under the arena railing, quickly followed by a big person shouting, "AIMEE! GET BACK HERE! NONONO!" Be prepared. For anything.
Rule #5: Relax and keep a sense of humor. Your baby is likely to take things much less seriously than you do, and will be interested in looking around and wondering why the devil you want him to stand right there. He may get it in his mind that this would be a good surface to take a roll nice and sandy, oh gee, it would feel so good! Then it will be time to taste-test the lead rope once again. If you take everything seriously, you won't have any fun. Showing is supposed to be fun for you, for your horse, and (of course) for the judge.
Most horse show judges also show. The judge has probably, at some point in his show career, been in your shoes. I was showing a large and relatively ring-savvy weanling when he decided that in that first class on that one day he'd rather not trot or stop, but would like to see what was on the other side of the arena. As we neared the judge where we were to stop before trotting off, he wouldn't. I planted my feet. I grasp on to the halter as well as the lead rope, and leaned back as hard as I could in an attempt to stop the colt. My feet created two distinct furrows in the arena sand as the colt marched purposefully past the judge (and on to the far end of the arena). I said over my shoulder, "Can I try trotting him back maybe?"
Which brings us back to Rule #4: Be prepared for anything!
OH NO! GOT A PROBLEM!!!
Problem #1: Baby poops just before the judge gets near.
Solution: This is not unusual. Horses poop when they are nervous, or anytime they feel like it. Simply move the horse a few steps forward so he's not tromping around in the manure and set him up again. (It's okay. Let the judge step in or around the pile!)
Problem #2: My youngster is "losing it" and acting up in the line.
Solution: Be kind to those around you. One baby going ballistic sets off surrounding babies. Move to either the beginning of the line (if you have already been judged) or the end of the line (if you have not yet been judged). Oftentimes the walk to another location helps focus the youngster's attention back onto you, calming him down. If you can, catch the ring steward's eye and point to the new location or flail your arms in frustrationdo something to let him know you are moving.
Problem #3: My youngster is relatively calm for the moment, but the horse next to me is going spastic and it's getting scary and he's going to run over us or kick us or trample us
Solution: Move. Either to the start of the line-up (if you have already been judged) or to the end if you have not yet been judged. And don't forget to wave to the ring steward!
Problem #4: Baby was physically perfect when we left home, but apparently in the trailer (in the new stall, walking to the arena, etc.) he cut himself.
Solution: Do appropriate medical stuff for the wound. If it requires a veterinarian's attention, get a vet. If it needs washing and some neon-yellow (and eye-catching) spray, wash it and spray liberally. If it requires bandaging, bandage it and don't go into the ring. At all. Bandages don't go into the ring. (But if it needs bandaging and you don't do it and go into the ring, shame on you!) First, keep the well-being of the horse in mind, and do whatever is in its best interest. Second, a judge can recognize a fresh wound and pretty well can figure out that it happened unintentionally. Third, babies do these things. And the judge knows it.
Problem #5: "My youngster is black or dark bay, but he's sun-bleached and reddish." "He is missing a spot of hair where another colt bit him while out playing." "It's autumn and he's starting to grow his winter coat and he looks a little fluffy." "She's a month old and hasn't shed out her baby hair yet, so she looks a little fluffy."
Solution: So? These are BABIES. Assuming the colt or filly is well groomed and otherwise fit for the show ring, these types of cosmetic factors don't override good conformation. (Specific note regarding winter coats: the judge probably knows there's a change of season coming.)
It should be noted, however, that given two youngsters of equal quality, equal color (e.g., both bay with a large blanket and an equal number of peacock spots), equal care in general grooming, equal disposition and behavior, and both competently handled, the judge will most likely place higher the "show groomed" non-sun-bleached slick-as-a-statue horse. I do not advocate late-season clipping nor keeping a baby stalled 24 hours a day simply for a ribbon. Again, keep the best interests of the horse in mind, and act accordingly.
Problem #6: My baby isn't weaned.
Solution: Bring Momma along. Also, bring along someone capable of handling Momma. Some judges will permit the dam to come into the show ring while others will not. (And some dams don't give a hoot what the judge prefers.) If you feel you need to have Momma accompany the foal, clear it through the show secretary long before the class, not as you are getting ready to march through the gate.
It has been frequently successful to start taking the foal out of the stall for 30 seconds, then for longer and longer periods, until Momma and Baby are both confident that they will shortly be back together. At that time, you can have Momma stand ringside so she can keep a close eye on her precious charge, and have Momma meet her youngster at the out gate immediately after the class. (This can also work well if you want to show the mare while she still has a suckling. And by "suckling" I mean a colt or filly under the age of three months. After that age, they should be able to be separated long enough for one class at a show.)
A COUPLE OF THOSE PROFESSIONAL TECHNIQUES FOR SHOWING
A good handler has spent many hours practicing how to stand and move in the arena. One reason that you may not have ever noticed quite what they do out there is because their movements are so automatic and subtle that the focus is on the horse, not themselves. I find it interesting to see a new handler who has the ambition and desire, but lacks the skills. He's the one doing all sorts of gyrations to get his horse to stand square and appear alert. You know the one I'm talking abouteveryone in the stands are whispering to each other, "Hey, watch that guy over there!" And I bet you, not one of the spectators (and possibly not even the judge) could describe the horse he was showing, but they can do a great imitation of his actions.
There's nothing special about the actions required for a professional presentation. But they do need to be well-practiced so they become automatic. The most important one are discussed below.
First and foremost, watch your posture. Stand up straight and proud. When running alongside your trotting horse, don't bend over at the waist and hold your hands out in front of you, like your head is winning a race with your butt. Stay upright, and use your body to say, "I have a horse here who is worthy!" Do not stand "at attention," or with your back bowed or arched. Be relaxed and able to move, but do it straight and proud.
When leading at a walk or trot, stay consistently at your horse's cheek level. As you become practiced and in tune with your horse, you will be able to stay in step and maintain the same cadence as his footfalls. This consistency and rhythmic performance presents a very pretty picture.
The most overlooked aspect of leading in a show-ring-manner, however, is Don't Look At Your Horse. Look to where you are going and expect the horse to follow. That is his job. As long as you don't look at your horse, he will move straight. When you alter your focus point by shifting your gaze to him, he goes crooked.
Whether leading or standing in the line up, keep your horse at a distance from you. If he wants to be in your pocket, move him over. If you are tense or fearful of losing control, you will tend to grasp his lead shank close to the snap, and that will pull you into him. What the judge will see at that point is the two of you attached to each other. What the judge WANTS to see is the horse. Stay about 12-18 inches away from the horse.
How you position yourself aids in control of the horse. Stay at a 45-degree angle, right about cheek level, facing your horse's near shoulder. Keep you cheek hand up next to the cheek when leading or standing so the judge can see how the neck ties into the shoulder. Also, this hand position provides a means of correction when the colt brings his head around to taste the lead rope--you can gently poke him back with your index finger. This is not an obvious action, but it is an effective one. This position also places you ready for action, whether to move for the judge or to step in and calm down an excited weanling.
While the judge is ambling around your calm weanling, you are going to have to move from side to side. When crossing over from one side of the horse to the other, don't back yourself around. Start with the foot closest to the horse and calmly walk around, taking usually three steps. When using the foot closest to the horse to start your walk, this places your third step for an easy pivot rather than a hop-jump to get into position on the other side. It's a smoother movement. And while you are moving from side to side, shift your hand downward to let the lead rope move under the horse's chin, then bring your hand back up to cheek level.
There will be a time when you are required to turn the horse, and you will want him to pivot and move in a circle with you rather than being pushed or pulled around. The technique for turning the horse to include a pivot is to ask the horse to shift his weight onto his haunches. As soon as the weight shifts--and before he starts to take a backward step-- step out promptly (starting with foot closest to horse) and walk into his cheek faster than the horse walks. He will move away from your hand as you move into his space so you don't whack your fist or face into his. But don't slow down or else the turn will fall apart.
Showing off your young horse is an involved process. Developing a show ring strategy encompasses many aspects, with no single aspect being more important than another. Time spend in preparation, however, will get you well on your way to having every advantage. You present a professional image when you know your job in the show ring and go out there and do it.
Showing weanlings and yearlings in halter classes requires an enormous amount of homework and nerves of steel. The better prepared you are to walk into the arena, under scrutiny of the judge (and all the ringside judges), the better the show experience will go for you and the youngster.
For those babies destined for the show ring, their homework should generally start around 72 hours of age. For the yearling (whether having been shown as a weanling or being prepared for its debut), the winter months provide a good opportunity for training. For the person handling the youngster, the homework is seemingly never-ending as it encompasses all the factors involved in showing the youngster, from care and feeding right on through remembering to pin the number on your back.
There are as many variations to showing as there are people showing. There is no One Way to Show. Each person will have his or her own style, and as he/she enters the arena for judging, on the end of that lead rope is a very individualistic horse.
There are, however, a couple of points that apply to every exhibitor:
Be prepared.
Know your job.
Whine only in the privacy of your trailer.
BUT FIRST, A WORD ABOUT JUDGES
Judging horses would be easy if it were an objective thing, with a little checklist that read: Two ears (yes or no). Two eyes (yes or no). Four legs (yes or no). But it isn't. It is highly subjective. It is an opinion. This opinion is based on studying conformation and performance, training and showing their own stock or others' stock, and having looked at and evaluated hundreds or thousands of horses. It is what is called a "learned opinion."
And despite rumors to the contrary, judges are human.
Judges bring with them into the arena their knowledge and their preferences. I, for one, do not care for blue eyes. But if the best horse in the class happens to have blue eyes, I pin that horse accordingly. There are things a judge can overlook (personal preferences that don't affect soundness or ability), but there are some things that no judge can ignore, such as crooked legs.
Being human, the judge also takes into account the manner in which the horse is shown. This is not to say that the turn-out of horse and handler is the primary factor the judge looks at, but the overall picture certainly plays a role in the judge's decisions. A good handler enhances a good horse; an inept handler can ruin a good horse's chance of placing. (There are a number of ways to polish your presentation of your horse, and many of those will be discussed below.)
BEING PREPARED: START AT THE BEGINNING
First, the youngster has to lead. This may initially seem like an obvious component to showing in any in-hand class, but a well-behaved horse at the end of a lead rope is a learned skill. Leading quietly consists of more than just going from Point A to Point B. The horse must be attentive to the handler, perform at the required gait on cue, and do it all without being in the handler's pocket. Especially at the noisy, action-packed show grounds, the young horse will be interested in all the strange goings-on, and is likely to discover lots of wonderful things to scare himself with. The "safe place," therefore, is as close to his handler as possible. It is only through much handling and lead work at home that the baby learns the trust necessary to move or stand a distance from the handler under all conditions.
Second, the judge expects the suckling or weanling to be alert and "full of it," but also under control. Because of the limited attention span of the babies, judges try to work fast and quietly. When with a baby on the end of the lead rope, you must be prepared for anything, at any moment. Judges, too, have to be on their toes in a baby class because one never knows what the next second holds. The weanling standing perfectly still until the judge walks behind it to evaluate the backside will, at that moment, 1) turn to look at the Judge, 2) kick the Judge, 3) nip his handler, 4) rear up, 5) pass gas, 6) poop, or 7) all of the above. (Be prepared. Have a sense of humor. And get the baby back under control!)
Yearlings, on the other hand, are expected to behave and be under control at all times in the show arena. The yearling is not expected to stand statue-still for the entire length of the class, but is expected to promptly assume its straight stance when asked. When the handler cues for a trot, the yearling should move out on a straight line without being pulled, urged, or chased around. When a halt is requested, it should occur promptly. And yearlings are expected to stand quietly for evaluation without taking the opportunity to sniff the judge, taste the clipboard, or chew the lead rope.
The biggest point in handling the youngster in the show arena is the ability to keep the critter under control, or in a worst-case scenario, get the horse back under control quickly. This is done only through lots and lots and lots of homework. Many factors play into this training, so it doesn't need to be a scheduled 20-minute-a-day halter training situation. But it does need to be a consistent handling, complete with expectations met.
GROOMING
Grooming is the most valuable and versatile training tool. Besides the obvious benefits of grooming, the horse learns how to stand quietly and how to tolerate all sorts of being fiddled with (from having his ears handled right though having his tail braided). He also becomes accustomed to things being flopped around his body rags, blankets, lycra hoods, hoses, electric cord, lead ropes, and the inevitable flying brush. (Which, in turn, helps him get used to you reaching around his legs as you pick up that brush.) The young horse learns the basics of trust through the grooming regimen, associating the handler with things that feel good. For the human, grooming provides the means to become totally comfortable working near the horse. Bonding is best built with a curry comb.
Clipping the show baby should be part of the show preparation, but limited to the muzzle, the outer rim of the ears, and the bridle path. If the youngster has feathering, his fetlocks should also be trimmed as this gives a good, clean line to the leg. Some people body clip the foal to try to achieve a slick appearance, but it is not necessary. Too often the body clip occurs too close to show time and the clipper tracks are glaringly apparent, or the person clipping is not skilled at it and ends up with a baby looking like he was made of corduroy. The best way to achieve a slick, shiny coat is simply to brush the snot out of them.
Bathing baby: I don't see any reason to do this unless absolutely necessary. If the time brushing has been adequate, the baby is clean. Okay, for Appaloosas with white-and-green areas, bathing is appropriate. To make this less traumatic for the weanling, try to use water that is not bone-chilling cold. You must also keep in mind that the baby's skin is tender, so you must be quite careful in your choice of shampoo and other grooming aids as they may be too harsh. One baby I know was washed with a whitening shampoo followed by an application of Show Sheen. She looked wonderful, but had a minor reaction to one or both items. She became so hypersensitive to touch that even a fly landing on her would send her into whole-body skin spasms.
For touch-up work, faces and noses, and cleaning under the tail (or even in lieu of bathing), diaper wipes are great. An added benefit is they are handy at the show grounds for wiping hands, faces, boots, and even for cleaning off the bird dropping on the truck windshield that will happen just as you are pulling out to head home.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS COUNT What to Wear?
For the horse, a well-chosen, well-fitted halter is essential. This does not mean it has to be an expensive or a silver-laden halter. For some horses, the less fancy the halter, the more attractive the head. Here are some guidelines for choosing the best halter for your horse.
Look at your horse. If he has a plain head, of plain coloring, a halter with do-dads may be your best choice. If your horse has color galore, a plain leather halter in a complimentary color will work well. If your horse has an exquisite head, you do not want lots of thick leather or big chunks of silver covering it up; a rolled-leather halter in the same color as your horse may be just the ticket. A finely-boned horse looks like it will topple over on its nose if the halter is too heavy, and the bulky horse will look a bit prissy in an Arabian-type, thin-chained halter and lead.
It is tough to pick the perfect halter. Your best bet is to either take your horse to the tack store (oh, what a wonderful opportunity to practice hauling and being in a strange place!) or develop a really good relationship with your local tack store so they trust you to walk off with a slew of halters to try on at home.
When you try on the halters, remember that show halters are not supposed to fit like stable halters. Show halters are not designed for grazing and hanging around. They should hug the face. The throat latch area should be snug and follow behind the jawline, not cut it in two. The part attaching the noseband and throat latch should not droop. The buckles should fall evenly on both sides, at a point between the ears and jaw. This attention to fit is especially critical when using a halter that draws attention to itself, such as sporting silver or contrasting leather work.
What if you are showing an English-type baby? There are Arabian halters in rolled leather, complete with browband and matching lead, that look like a bitless bridle. You can also opt for a thin (but well fitted) track halter.
It is important that the halter match the type of horse you show, and equally important that your dress match the halter type. If you have a Western show halter on baby, you wear Western show clothes. If you are presenting your colt as an English type horse, then in-hand or hunt seat clothing is appropriate.
For the human, clean and well fitted clothing is top priority. Again, this does not mean expensive or flashy. You need to focus your clothing choices on the type of horse you are showing, the color scheme that best compliments your horse, and fit.
"Fit" is probably the most fun to discuss. It doesn't matter whether you are male or female, unless you are a fashion model (and most of you aren't) tight pants and tops look bad. Very very bad. Breeches that are ready to split at the seams are truly frightening. I understand that it may be difficult to buy a pair of pants or a shirt that is a "larger size than one normally wears," but think of it as a necessary component of a specific costume. Buy something that fits in a complimentary way.
Western pants should have a nice drape to them, and the length should be to where the hem touches the ground when wearing your boots. The hem should not drag the ground, nor should it look like the extra yard in length is all bunched up to your knees. The fashions seen, particularly in the women's section of the western catalogs, are nice western fashions, but not necessarily appropriate show ring fashion.
Western shirts should be relatively sedate, and will look quite finished with a tie of some type. Fancy cut-work, fringes, bangles and sparklies are better suited for the barn dance than the show ring. There may be times, depending upon the horse's coloring, that some fancier adornment will set off the picture. I had a black mare with little chrome, and the only color in the "complete picture" was a subtle embroidered strand of ivy leaves on my shirt. With any other horse, this shirt would have looked ludicrous, but with her it was the perfect accent.
Jacket or vest or not? In great part, that depends on the weather. If it's chilly, a jacket or vest is wonderful. If it's 97 degrees and humid, a jacket or vest is a bit dumb. (After all, what type of a professional image will you have lying on the ground from fainting? And don't forget that while you are lying there, your weanling is probably not under the best of control.) For showing in-hand or English-type, a polo shirt or smart looking turtleneck over chinos (not jeans) and paddock boots present a good, all-weather basic outfit. In cool or cold weather, a blazer or hunt jacket is appropriate. However, avoid mixing the two types of dresscowboy boots and a hunt jacket do not present a professional image.
I cannot avoid mentioning glitter-clothes. Sequins, rhinestones, and other types of formal wear are certainly appropriate dress under specific conditions, and can present an eye-catching picture. First, the person must have the body type that looks good wearing such clothing. Second, night-time under lights is when it should be worn, not at 9 am on a Sunday morning, before the judge has coffee. These glitter clothes are the prom dresses of the show ring. I figure it this way: If your show outfit is something you would not wear to a church social, then it's probably not the best choice for the show ring, either.
Hats. First, they must stay on in the show ring. Oh my, you do not want your hat flying around, scaring the willies out the babies! Jamb that hat down if you must, but keep it on your head. Second, your hat must compliment your outfit and your face. Not just any old hat will do, either. Remember all the fun you had fitting a halter, finding the perfect one? Well, do the same with the hats. Ask your hat dealer for advice. Ask people whose opinions you value for advice. Try on lots and lots of hats. Once you have the right hat for you, set it squarely atop your head, about two finger-widths above your brow. Don't tilt it backward, don't pull it down. And this does, by the way, apply to both Western and English hats. Get the one that fits in all ways.
The color of your show outfit should compliment the horse without being overpowering or distracting. Your favorite color may look terrible next to your horse. Take a variety of fabric swatches out to the barn with you and hold them up next to the horse. It is amazing how even a small piece of the wrong color fabric will cause your horse's color to fade away, or simply clash with the subtle tones of the hair. When showing a flashy colored Appaloosa, the horse's pattern is best set off with subtle solid colors. For the more sedately colored horses, visual excitement can be created by a few smatterings of contrasting color, such as a tie and hat band.
Okay, you now have a clean baby sporting a perfect, well-fitted halter. You have your show duds onclean, ironed, starched. Your shoes are clean, your hat is set properly, and off you go to the show ring.
ARENA ETIQUETTE
Rule #1: Be on time for the gate. You may think trotting up to the gate, waving your hand and shouting, "I'm coming! Wait!" makes a noticeable entrance. It does. It isn't a favorable one, but it certainly is noticed! Listen for when your class is called, and be there ready to waltz on in.
Rule #2: Don't socialize. You are not out there to pass the time of day with the judge, with the other exhibitors, or anyone standing ringside. You have a job to dopresenting that baby in its best light for the judge's evaluation. You should remain focused, calm, and in control every moment.
Rule #3: Know the rules under which you are showing. For halter, the walk, trot, and stand are the required components. The judge must see a walk and a trot to be able to evaluate movement. The judge must be able to walk around the calm horse to judge conformation. If your youngster doesn't cooperate on that day, and you don't place, it wasn't the judge's fault.
Rule #4: Be prepared for anything. This means you must remain alert, not only as it relates to your colt's position and behavior, but his lightning-quick reactions to a variety of stimuli. What happens when some spectator's two-year-old child decides to slip under the arena railing, quickly followed by a big person shouting, "AIMEE! GET BACK HERE! NONONO!" Be prepared. For anything.
Rule #5: Relax and keep a sense of humor. Your baby is likely to take things much less seriously than you do, and will be interested in looking around and wondering why the devil you want him to stand right there. He may get it in his mind that this would be a good surface to take a roll nice and sandy, oh gee, it would feel so good! Then it will be time to taste-test the lead rope once again. If you take everything seriously, you won't have any fun. Showing is supposed to be fun for you, for your horse, and (of course) for the judge.
Most horse show judges also show. The judge has probably, at some point in his show career, been in your shoes. I was showing a large and relatively ring-savvy weanling when he decided that in that first class on that one day he'd rather not trot or stop, but would like to see what was on the other side of the arena. As we neared the judge where we were to stop before trotting off, he wouldn't. I planted my feet. I grasp on to the halter as well as the lead rope, and leaned back as hard as I could in an attempt to stop the colt. My feet created two distinct furrows in the arena sand as the colt marched purposefully past the judge (and on to the far end of the arena). I said over my shoulder, "Can I try trotting him back maybe?"
Which brings us back to Rule #4: Be prepared for anything!
OH NO! GOT A PROBLEM!!!
Problem #1: Baby poops just before the judge gets near.
Solution: This is not unusual. Horses poop when they are nervous, or anytime they feel like it. Simply move the horse a few steps forward so he's not tromping around in the manure and set him up again. (It's okay. Let the judge step in or around the pile!)
Problem #2: My youngster is "losing it" and acting up in the line.
Solution: Be kind to those around you. One baby going ballistic sets off surrounding babies. Move to either the beginning of the line (if you have already been judged) or the end of the line (if you have not yet been judged). Oftentimes the walk to another location helps focus the youngster's attention back onto you, calming him down. If you can, catch the ring steward's eye and point to the new location or flail your arms in frustrationdo something to let him know you are moving.
Problem #3: My youngster is relatively calm for the moment, but the horse next to me is going spastic and it's getting scary and he's going to run over us or kick us or trample us
Solution: Move. Either to the start of the line-up (if you have already been judged) or to the end if you have not yet been judged. And don't forget to wave to the ring steward!
Problem #4: Baby was physically perfect when we left home, but apparently in the trailer (in the new stall, walking to the arena, etc.) he cut himself.
Solution: Do appropriate medical stuff for the wound. If it requires a veterinarian's attention, get a vet. If it needs washing and some neon-yellow (and eye-catching) spray, wash it and spray liberally. If it requires bandaging, bandage it and don't go into the ring. At all. Bandages don't go into the ring. (But if it needs bandaging and you don't do it and go into the ring, shame on you!) First, keep the well-being of the horse in mind, and do whatever is in its best interest. Second, a judge can recognize a fresh wound and pretty well can figure out that it happened unintentionally. Third, babies do these things. And the judge knows it.
Problem #5: "My youngster is black or dark bay, but he's sun-bleached and reddish." "He is missing a spot of hair where another colt bit him while out playing." "It's autumn and he's starting to grow his winter coat and he looks a little fluffy." "She's a month old and hasn't shed out her baby hair yet, so she looks a little fluffy."
Solution: So? These are BABIES. Assuming the colt or filly is well groomed and otherwise fit for the show ring, these types of cosmetic factors don't override good conformation. (Specific note regarding winter coats: the judge probably knows there's a change of season coming.)
It should be noted, however, that given two youngsters of equal quality, equal color (e.g., both bay with a large blanket and an equal number of peacock spots), equal care in general grooming, equal disposition and behavior, and both competently handled, the judge will most likely place higher the "show groomed" non-sun-bleached slick-as-a-statue horse. I do not advocate late-season clipping nor keeping a baby stalled 24 hours a day simply for a ribbon. Again, keep the best interests of the horse in mind, and act accordingly.
Problem #6: My baby isn't weaned.
Solution: Bring Momma along. Also, bring along someone capable of handling Momma. Some judges will permit the dam to come into the show ring while others will not. (And some dams don't give a hoot what the judge prefers.) If you feel you need to have Momma accompany the foal, clear it through the show secretary long before the class, not as you are getting ready to march through the gate.
It has been frequently successful to start taking the foal out of the stall for 30 seconds, then for longer and longer periods, until Momma and Baby are both confident that they will shortly be back together. At that time, you can have Momma stand ringside so she can keep a close eye on her precious charge, and have Momma meet her youngster at the out gate immediately after the class. (This can also work well if you want to show the mare while she still has a suckling. And by "suckling" I mean a colt or filly under the age of three months. After that age, they should be able to be separated long enough for one class at a show.)
A COUPLE OF THOSE PROFESSIONAL TECHNIQUES FOR SHOWING
A good handler has spent many hours practicing how to stand and move in the arena. One reason that you may not have ever noticed quite what they do out there is because their movements are so automatic and subtle that the focus is on the horse, not themselves. I find it interesting to see a new handler who has the ambition and desire, but lacks the skills. He's the one doing all sorts of gyrations to get his horse to stand square and appear alert. You know the one I'm talking abouteveryone in the stands are whispering to each other, "Hey, watch that guy over there!" And I bet you, not one of the spectators (and possibly not even the judge) could describe the horse he was showing, but they can do a great imitation of his actions.
There's nothing special about the actions required for a professional presentation. But they do need to be well-practiced so they become automatic. The most important one are discussed below.
First and foremost, watch your posture. Stand up straight and proud. When running alongside your trotting horse, don't bend over at the waist and hold your hands out in front of you, like your head is winning a race with your butt. Stay upright, and use your body to say, "I have a horse here who is worthy!" Do not stand "at attention," or with your back bowed or arched. Be relaxed and able to move, but do it straight and proud.
When leading at a walk or trot, stay consistently at your horse's cheek level. As you become practiced and in tune with your horse, you will be able to stay in step and maintain the same cadence as his footfalls. This consistency and rhythmic performance presents a very pretty picture.
The most overlooked aspect of leading in a show-ring-manner, however, is Don't Look At Your Horse. Look to where you are going and expect the horse to follow. That is his job. As long as you don't look at your horse, he will move straight. When you alter your focus point by shifting your gaze to him, he goes crooked.
Whether leading or standing in the line up, keep your horse at a distance from you. If he wants to be in your pocket, move him over. If you are tense or fearful of losing control, you will tend to grasp his lead shank close to the snap, and that will pull you into him. What the judge will see at that point is the two of you attached to each other. What the judge WANTS to see is the horse. Stay about 12-18 inches away from the horse.
How you position yourself aids in control of the horse. Stay at a 45-degree angle, right about cheek level, facing your horse's near shoulder. Keep you cheek hand up next to the cheek when leading or standing so the judge can see how the neck ties into the shoulder. Also, this hand position provides a means of correction when the colt brings his head around to taste the lead rope--you can gently poke him back with your index finger. This is not an obvious action, but it is an effective one. This position also places you ready for action, whether to move for the judge or to step in and calm down an excited weanling.
While the judge is ambling around your calm weanling, you are going to have to move from side to side. When crossing over from one side of the horse to the other, don't back yourself around. Start with the foot closest to the horse and calmly walk around, taking usually three steps. When using the foot closest to the horse to start your walk, this places your third step for an easy pivot rather than a hop-jump to get into position on the other side. It's a smoother movement. And while you are moving from side to side, shift your hand downward to let the lead rope move under the horse's chin, then bring your hand back up to cheek level.
There will be a time when you are required to turn the horse, and you will want him to pivot and move in a circle with you rather than being pushed or pulled around. The technique for turning the horse to include a pivot is to ask the horse to shift his weight onto his haunches. As soon as the weight shifts--and before he starts to take a backward step-- step out promptly (starting with foot closest to horse) and walk into his cheek faster than the horse walks. He will move away from your hand as you move into his space so you don't whack your fist or face into his. But don't slow down or else the turn will fall apart.
Showing off your young horse is an involved process. Developing a show ring strategy encompasses many aspects, with no single aspect being more important than another. Time spend in preparation, however, will get you well on your way to having every advantage. You present a professional image when you know your job in the show ring and go out there and do it.
