Free Walk on a Long Rein - How to Improve?

3Beasties

Well-Known Member
Joined
7 September 2008
Messages
15,574
Visit site
As title really.

Beastlet is pretty good at stretching down and is sensible enough not to do anything silly in the free walk so in that respect she is no problem. Her weakness is that she completely goes to sleep and the main comments we get are 'lacks purpose'. I'm not sure how to get more out of her without getting after her all the time. Any ideas?
 
Ill be keen to here the replies as mine will stretch down but she pops back up for a nosey alot as quite a guarded nervous type at shows but today she was very good in her free rein walk ( for once lol).

If she is lazy and switched off its more in her medium walk and if I get at her she breaks and jogs so I will find the suggestions interesting too.
 
The key to the free walk on a long rein is to maintain the stretch down for the entire duration (too many horses pop their heads back up at times) and to really MARCH. You will have to get after your horse in the free walk, it isnt a time to switch off and have a plod along slowly. You should be pushing forwards so the horse has purpose to its walk - not that he is being lazy thinking 'thank god I can go slow for a bit', he should be marching forwards like he is excited to be on his way somewhere (think how horses often walk faster with more purpose when they get close to home after you've been on a hack).

The hind feet should be falling into the steps of the front feet (over tracking) - so the judge wants to see a nice stretch down and forwards, the steps marching with purpose, the hinds over tracking and the strides lengthening.

Dont worry, this is a very common problem (I write for judges A LOT and see it all the time) - just remember this is not a time to relax and switch off. Keep pushing forwards, expect the walk to be very active (more active than a normal walk), you want to feel longer strides and like you are getting somewhere with the strides. If you feel like you are marching and the walk is really taking you forwards then that is the feeling you are after.

Free walk is such an easy place to pick up points as you get double marks - make sure you dont give too much rein either (i.e. not on the buckle), you still should have a little contact with the mouth so you can ensure you can maintain the neck stretch and stop him coming back up. Practice stretchy work at home, you should be able to do stretchy walk, trot and canter at home with ease so get your instructor to work on it with you if you are struggling.
 
The key to the free walk on a long rein is to maintain the stretch down for the entire duration (too many horses pop their heads back up at times) and to really MARCH. You will have to get after your horse in the free walk, it isnt a time to switch off and have a plod along slowly. You should be pushing forwards so the horse has purpose to its walk - not that he is being lazy thinking 'thank god I can go slow for a bit', he should be marching forwards like he is excited to be on his way somewhere (think how horses often walk faster with more purpose when they get close to home after you've been on a hack).

The hind feet should be falling into the steps of the front feet (over tracking) - so the judge wants to see a nice stretch down and forwards, the steps marching with purpose, the hinds over tracking and the strides lengthening.

Dont worry, this is a very common problem (I write for judges A LOT and see it all the time) - just remember this is not a time to relax and switch off. Keep pushing forwards, expect the walk to be very active (more active than a normal walk), you want to feel longer strides and like you are getting somewhere with the strides. If you feel like you are marching and the walk is really taking you forwards then that is the feeling you are after.

Free walk is such an easy place to pick up points as you get double marks - make sure you dont give too much rein either (i.e. not on the buckle), you still should have a little contact with the mouth so you can ensure you can maintain the neck stretch and stop him coming back up. Practice stretchy work at home, you should be able to do stretchy walk, trot and canter at home with ease so get your instructor to work on it with you if you are struggling.

Thank you, that's a really great reply. The 'march' is definitely what we are lacking but how do I get it? Is it a case of getting after until she realises that free walk doesn't mean it's time for her to switch off?
 
Thank you, that's a really great reply. The 'march' is definitely what we are lacking but how do I get it? Is it a case of getting after until she realises that free walk doesn't mean it's time for her to switch off?

With one of mine that tended to dawdle in FW, then tensed when picked up so lost even more marks, we did a few tests where he was not given much rein just enough so he could stretch a tiny amount then, along with working on it at home, gradually asked for more stretch and activity, it meant giving away a few marks for a while but he went from the walk being 4 or 5 to consistent 7s and the odd 8, the med walk and transitions in and out of FW improved as well and it is now well established.
 
Using your legs alternately as the hind leg on the same side comes forward can help to perk up a lacklustre free waddle. I practice it out hacking, and notice a real difference in the quality of the walk when I'm applying tactical leg aids, rather than just flapping away and expecting the horse to go forward.
 
Using your legs alternately as the hind leg on the same side comes forward can help to perk up a lacklustre free waddle. I practice it out hacking, and notice a real difference in the quality of the walk when I'm applying tactical leg aids, rather than just flapping away and expecting the horse to go forward.

This or try 'walking' with your seatbones it keeps the horse in walk and helps them march along.
 
I have been taught to initially rub up and down the crest of the mane/neck with my hand in a sort of massaging movement. This encourages your horse to really stretch and let go, whilst maintaining a marching walk with my legs and seat - it has certainly helped mine.
 
Using your seat should be done carefully. It is the driving seat and can be very useful, but overdo it and you can end up pushing the saddle into the shoulders and making uncomfortable for the horse...what you need to do really is lighten the seat to allow the shoulders greater freedom of movement and allow the back to swing well.

Auslanders method of alternating legs is a very good one. It is actually how I train horses. Alternate legs mean walk, both legs mean trot, outside leg in contact, back and lightly off and on means canter. It makes for a horse that needs only an 'invisible' aid and doesn't need constant use of the leg to keep going.

Think less is more and the horse will get lighter and respond better.
 
Using your legs alternately as the hind leg on the same side comes forward can help to perk up a lacklustre free waddle. I practice it out hacking, and notice a real difference in the quality of the walk when I'm applying tactical leg aids, rather than just flapping away and expecting the horse to go forward.

This ^ and the practicing it out hacking. I'm guessig that when you are schooling at home the end of your session to cool off you give your horse his head and wander round on the buckle - how is your horse meant to differentiate between this end of session chill out period and the free walk in a test?
I always insist that my horses WALK with purpose even when cooling off. It doesnt have to be overly forward and tracking up, on the bit, stretchy or anything but we have to go forward with purpose not just dawdle along. Cooling off if I think my horse needs a bit more slow walking I get off and lead him.

The same out hacking, the walk must always have purpose. This doesn't mean striding along at a million miles an hour but you should feel that you are being 'taken' down the road not pushing your way down the road or staggering along at snail pace (does that make any sense?). This way your horses default walk is a walk with purpose.

I think it was Mark Todd who said something like 'always ride like you are at a competition becasue how is your horse meant to know the difference?'
 
Using your legs alternately as the hind leg on the same side comes forward can help to perk up a lacklustre free waddle. I practice it out hacking, and notice a real difference in the quality of the walk when I'm applying tactical leg aids, rather than just flapping away and expecting the horse to go forward.

This is what my instructor taught me to do with my youngster as well. Worked a treat and he had cracked it within a few sessions, we always have positive comments about our free walk.
 
Top