Harbridge?? Pelham?? Help!

Regan

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24 August 2010
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Hi All

I need some advice please!

I've had my boy almost a year now. He's a 15.2 12 y/o irish cob. Really lovely boy with manners to burn.

Currently I ride him in a sam marsh pelham for 2 reasons. Firstly, he is strong and has a tendancy to set his neck and go. Secondly, he has a big scar on his tongue from where a previous owner twitched him. The sam marsh lies flat on this scar and he seems to be comfortable in it.

I'm trying to get him back into work now spring is on its way (hopefully!!) but I'm finding him almost impossible to trot as he's just leaning on me and working entirely on his forehand - we seem to end up in a battle of wills. He has wonderful paces and he clearly been schooled very well at some point. If I 'give' the reins he will just trot faster and faster as its easy for him, he seems to evade any kind of contact by just leaning and going - so I'm finding it very hard to engage his back end and get him to work properly.

I would like to try using a harbridge to encourage him to work from behind, but I'm not sure about using it with the pelham as most people seem to think its one or the other. I'm open to suggestions on changing his bit, but obv don't want to make him uncomfortable in his mouth - and I still need some brakes!!

All thought welcome! :)

Thanks

R
 
I think for a horse like this, its important to teach what the bit actually means. sometimes because of how they are ridden, or past experience, they learn to lean against it, and you really have to pull to get them to respond to a downward transition.
What i would aim to do with this horse is start on the lunge, and have him trot steady and calmly on a loose rein without pulling away from you.
When he can trot round u like this, when you ride him, DO NOT PULL. Sorry if this sounds rude, but pulling will only make him pull and lean more. You should aim to be able to walk, trot and canter with a slack rein. When you put the horse in a pace, they should stay there until you decide to change it. And not run off faster.
So many horses learn to lean and pull, because we pull on them. They cannot lean or pull if there is nothing to lean or pull against.
I always like to teach the one rein stop, because it enables you to stop and disengage the hindquarters without pulling both reins. This means the horse cant lean against you, as long as it is taught correctly. Google the one rein stop if you are interested as i find it a brill tool for pullers.
When the horse can ride without needing a short rein, all you have to do to stop is pick up a contact. This should be enough to halt. The horse should be soft and responsive so that he doesnt go back to just leaning on you. So if done well, canter to halt is easy peasy.

Im sure there are plenty of bits out there that would help releive his leaning, so if that is the approach you wish to take, im sure someone will be able to help you. Best of luck.
 
I don't think the Harbridge will help you. He sounds like he needs to bend and flex LOADS more. If he sets his neck and runs, try putting him in shoulder in or shoulder fore and ask for inside flexion. Lift the inside hand and use your leg to lift the ribcage / shoulder. Transitions, and lots of them, and some lateral work to get him listening to you rather than running off and being a swine!

Have you tried something like an NS trans angled lozenge bit? It "cups" the tongue, gives lots of tongue relief, and has a direct action in regard to turning and flexing. May be worth a go? If he is pulling at you in a Sam Marsh, no amount of stronger bitting will help you, so you may as well go back to basics and give him something softer to work with.

Good luck. x
 
Alot of companies such as the bit bank do bit hire. I would have a go at some more bits if I were you before going down another gadget route. You may well find that if, for example, you use a combination bit with nose pressure this may be enough. I also have a stong horse which I ride 50/50 in a dutch gag and then a myler snaffle - seems to work but the real trick is to sit up and not pull at him myself - which is what he wants!
 
thanks for the replies guys.

Completely agree with it all - I've learnt that pulling back on him is not the answer! nor do I want this kind of relationship with him...

I think its time to invest in some lessons to work in a safe environment (we dont have a school where I keep him) and get him listening again and maybe look into some different biting options

Thanks again

R
 
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