Help! Horse bolting when being led in. Total loss at way forward

attheponies said:
I'd be worried about a broken neck with Foxhunter's suggestion unless I'm reading it wrong. I've had my chap coming up for 5 years and basically have got used to him. (He rears when leading and quite deliberately pulls the rope out of your hands with his foreleg). I've tried all sorts including NH (which did help considerably, particularly making him move back a few steps if he is rude) but I've found the Be Nice to be the most successful (this also worked best with a pony who used to pull away & take off). I'd avoid the lunge line (although I did try lunging my chap across the field and into the yard on occasions), but I'd use a 12' rope. I've found quiet perseverance has paid off and never letting your concentration drop for a moment! Good luck it really is a pain when they have a habit like this.
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I have used the fixing method only two or three times in over 40+ years of working with horses and, have never had one break its neck yet.

I would far rather be nice to horses and give them the easy option. I rarely ever get any problems because of experience I can stop it before it starts BUT when you get a bloody minded horse like this then they need to be taught that they are not as strong as they think.

I want my horses to behave when I do whatever, whenever, to them, I do not want to have to concentrate all the time, I want the horse to trust me and me them.
I also bring in however many horses are in the field together at the same time. If it is two then I lead them in together, if it is six then I lead them in together. I do not care if they are experienced horses or the foals and yearlings. I catch them and they walk in at the end of the ropes behind me. I have not got the time to catch them singly to either turn them out or bring them in.

They have the choice, Butlins or Borstal - oddly enough most chose the easy option.
 
I have Spanish horses, they are all led in the serraton which is not to be trifled with, but NOT recommended for novice / inexperienced handlers. I second the "tying to fixed object" idea having done this years ago with a completely insane TB who bolted in hand, when mounting and under saddle. Only had to tie her to a tree while mounting once and that was the end of it, she never tried anything ever again.
 
wow its actually so helpful to know so many other horses are exactly the same! And espicially the heavier breeds like cobs and Irish Drafts. Like you say, they all have their party piece.

I think i'm starting to see a way forward. The thing seems to be stopping them before they go - so using pressure to keep them back so they don't have the chance to go through you. Still risky as you could get sat on but worth a try.

Then keep his head up and use a long line so if he does go we have longer to react. I think we have to risk him standing on it - like somebody said, if he stands on it then it'll give him a good shock and stop him which gives us a chance to catch him again.

We're going to work him more - even if its just ground work in walk to get him thinking and responding to us. Physical hard work is hard at the moment but give it a few weeks and get rid of this frost and we'll be able to do more.

Also wondering if it would be a good idea to feed him BEFORE we bring him in, so he's nice and full and not desperate to get inside to his warm stable and fresh hay. He always has hay left in his field but he seems to like it fresh.

ughhhhh winter and naughty horses!! Why do we do this again????
 
Agree with trying a feed before bringing in, this has definitely helped with my chap (I still give him a few carrot or apple slices when I catch him up) or you could try giving a small portion of hay 15-20 minutes before bringing in just to take the edge of his appetite. Whatever you try, good luck, I'm sure you'll get there with him. :)
 
jesstickle said:
I have the Eskadron headcollar too. Great thing it is as well. And I can also tell when mine is about to go. Only difference is mine is worse in winter and is lovely in summer :)

Do you know where to get replacement rings from nowdays? I'm really struggling to find them anymore and lord knobber broke my last spare pulling away and stepping on the rope a few weeks ago :mad:
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I don't know where to get replacement rings from no but mine broke his too (mum forgot to detach the lead rope from the chain bit when tying him up and hepulled back and managed to break it. Tit!). We got a local farmer/handyman type person (family friend) to fix another ring on. It's not a hard job really so i reckon you could get anyone who's good with a bit of welding to do it. I don't know where he got the new ring from though or if he made it!
 
This is a really difficult one. We have a horse like that here. I thought his owner was just too small and weak as no horse has ever got away from me before. However, even with a rope halter, long line and gloves he can do it. In fact 3 times last week! Grrr! The problem is there is no room for manouver. The gate is in one corner of the sand turnout (gate fastening is on the corner) and it is a direct line to the yard with no room to get an angle on him so he just bolts out as soon as you open the gate, in a straight line so no way of getting his head around (his father won the derby BTW so he's quick!). I don't have a problem with him when he tries to bolt in the school as I am pretty damn quick too and can get an angle on him. He doesn't try it with me in there, just his owner (and gets away with it!).

I like Foxhunters suggestion of tying a long rope to the gate post. However, the speed he accellerates, he would likely break his neck. I have managed to better him this week by constantly jabbing on the rope, elbow in his neck but it is touch and go.
 
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Lack of respect for the handler, and a horse thats decided it makes his own decisions.

I'd use a rope halter, with at least a 12' line.

Lots of ground work exercises, stops starts and back ups.

I'd probably make him walk to his box from the field in reverse a few times, never fails.
 
My horse is 33 but is still flighty when he wants to be, if you are leading him across a field he will drop his shoulder into you to spin and knock you over, I am wise to this and can usually handle him, I put my elbow in his neck, use the lead to correct him but try not to hold it tight all the time as it makes him worse, sometime he's having a fit on the spot or jogging, he wears a muzzle which I'm not sure helps or not tbh, its not fun when they behave like this and can be dangerous depending on the extent of the boogy bush monsters that have started him off lol mine uses ANY excuse if he's in that sort of mood.

Another day he'll walk in like larry the lamb !

Due to being kept in alot recently due to weather I was thinking of feeding some sort of calmer or getting those instant shot things, I have sedalin but would rather not use it all the time when its £30 quid a tube !
 
Only allow an experienced handler, use a chiffney and a long webbing line which will not break, make every leading session a lesson.
Wear gloves and hard hat also good trample proof boots.
It will help if there are two horse comimg in at once.
 
Miss L Toe said:
Only allow an experienced handler, use a chiffney and a long webbing line which will not break, make every leading session a lesson.
Wear gloves and hard hat also good trample proof boots.
It will help if there are two horse coming in at once.
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I agree with the safety aspects of this advice. But please do not put a long line on a chiffney.
 
Mine used to do this every once in a while. I used to bring him in with a bridle with a Pelham bit when he got like that and he was fine then. I had the reins twisted through the throatlash too. I wouldn't use a headcollar and lunge line or leadrope because of the danger of him standing on it.
 
Miss L Toe said:
Only allow an experienced handler, use a chiffney and a long webbing line which will not break, make every leading session a lesson.
Wear gloves and hard hat also good trample proof boots.
It will help if there are two horse comimg in at once.
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Not on a barging cob it won't.

Do not bring in with another horse - you need to have both hands and all your concentration on yours otherwise it will just end up getting dangerous as you lose control of both horses.

I am sorry but the idea of tying a charging cob to a gate post is possibly the most dangerous thing I have ever heard suggested:mad: not only would you run the risk of hurting the horse - but my cob and most others would probably damage the gate post - not going to go down well on a livery yard:rolleyes:

And as I said in an earlier post a chifney is useless on a bargy running cob and never put one on a lunge line. To stop a bargy running off cob you need to be able to pull them off balance - they put their heads down and run through EVERYTHING and will drag people etc with them
 
LouS said:
Rope halter, long rope and gloves. Do some groundwork and teach him to respect it. I've been doing some work with mine, I will stop then swing the rope in a circle in front of me if he tries to walk past and keep swinging it until he backs up, doesn't take them long to figure out I stop, you stop and don't try to go past me.

If they do get past you I would dig my heels in and pull them straight round to face me and mean it, he's taking the absolute piss. You have next to no control in a normal headcollar so definitely invest in a rope type training halter and learn how to use it properly.
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My thoughts exactly. Mine did exactly the same, without the kick (thank the lord!) For months I just focused on GROUNDWORK GROUNDWORK GROUNDWORK, I couldn't let Bailey step out of line, he has a millimeter and he will take a mile. It will frustrate you.. bore you to tears at times, but it's the key to respect on the ground. I had always to walk with my shoulder to his head, this way we are even. If the horse is in front of you, they are leading, if the horse is behind they are pushing you forward, so being level is a major part.
As the above quote said, learn to use a rope halter (watch some videos etc) invest in one, a long line and gloves (Always remember the gloves!) and work on the groundwork, backing up, stopping, yielding etc.

All the best;)- I know how hard it can be!:rolleyes:
 
LouS said:
Rope halter, long rope and gloves. Do some groundwork and teach him to respect it. I've been doing some work with mine, I will stop then swing the rope in a circle in front of me if he tries to walk past and keep swinging it until he backs up, doesn't take them long to figure out I stop, you stop and don't try to go past me.

If they do get past you I would dig my heels in and pull them straight round to face me and mean it, he's taking the absolute piss. You have next to no control in a normal headcollar so definitely invest in a rope type training halter and learn how to use it properly.
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I would agree. Mine was horrible, patience and this routine was the answer, or circle him around you on a long rope.
 
Years ago someone had the same problem but rearing and at 16.2 thats no joke!! They recomended a rope with chain around the nose, and gradually lessening the tightness as behaviour improves. I would treat him as if he is going to do it every time he comes in and start as you mean to go on. Use to have a welsh section d whose favourite trick was head down and run and then boot anyone who came near her, use to do it at shows too which was not good! He might think its time he came in but he has to do as he is told, good luck!!
 
Slinkyunicorn said:
Not on a barging cob it won't.

Do not bring in with another horse - you need to have both hands and all your concentration on yours otherwise it will just end up getting dangerous as you lose control of both horses.

I am sorry but the idea of tying a charging cob to a gate post is possibly the most dangerous thing I have ever heard suggested:mad: not only would you run the risk of hurting the horse - but my cob and most others would probably damage the gate post - not going to go down well on a livery yard:rolleyes:

And as I said in an earlier post a chifney is useless on a bargy running cob and never put one on a lunge line. To stop a bargy running off cob you need to be able to pull them off balance - they put their heads down and run through EVERYTHING and will drag people etc with them
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Obviously not one person and two horses! The handler must be strong and competent, a bridle is an obvious idea, I assume it has been tried and that the owner is still unable to handle this horse.
 
Wagtail said:
T. He doesn't try it with me in there, just his owner (and gets away with it!).

I have managed to better him this week by constantly jabbing on the rope, elbow in his neck but it is touch and go.
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its called bad manners:
I have just "cured" a big boy of his barging and taking off as soon as he is released in the arena [day one] by putting rope over nose [long rope in one hand, short side in same hand, but am able to pull it though rather than let him go with rope round his leg]
I jabbed him to ask for his attention, walk, stop walk stop, by the time we were outside he was more concerned with my "training" than his "escape plan" This is only day two, I expect he will be respectful by day three.
 
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