how to get horse to accept contact in trot

meesha

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Hi

Hope someone can advise - have been schooling my 8 year old gelding - ridden and also when lunged (with side reins) he accepts contact in walk but in trot he doesnt seem to be able to relax and work nicely - should I just do more in walk as not done masses with him (mostly hacking, fun rides, bit xc schooling/clear round) to get him to stretch etc before expecting more.

Teeth are due to be checked but back/saddle all checked and ok - he is reasonably fit (although a little more porky than he should be) and hacks out well. His canter is also ok but the trot seems to be sticking point - worried it could be my contact so thought about flexi reins but he is also not brilliant on lunge with side reins.

Any tips greatly appreciated


boring ceral for all I'm afraid !! (museli mixed with branflakes !!!!)
 

showjumpergirl

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My gelding used to be a bit like this, and my trainer had us working long and low, trying to get him to stretch down and take the contact forwards, then I pick him up. It seems to work because before I ask him to work in an outline, he's relaxed (in his mind, and over his back etc.) and seeking the contact. He's still not fantastic in a snaffle, but we're getting there slowly.

I wouldn't use flexi-reins because they just mask and confuse signals, plus if it is your contact that's the issue, I doubt they'd help much.

Anyway, good luck :)
 

Ali16

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Hiya,

IMHO loooaddds of work on the lunge with two lines works a treat. I usually put side reins on loose too so that they can't 'escape' totally. Then once settled and not panicy/ stressy about it on the lunge progress to ridden work.

There are so many little things that could cause a horse to not go into the contact but I think that lunging is usually the best place to start! :p
 

meesha

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Thanks guys thats really helpful - will try combination of both - when schooling will try and long and low and will also try lunge (although I am ignorant so what do you mean by 2 lines ?) sorry for the stupidity
 

WellyBaggins

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Hiya,

IMHO loooaddds of work on the lunge with two lines works a treat. I usually put side reins on loose too so that they can't 'escape' totally. Then once settled and not panicy/ stressy about it on the lunge progress to ridden work.

There are so many little things that could cause a horse to not go into the contact but I think that lunging is usually the best place to start! :p

This for me too :)
 

lex2501

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I'm by no means an expert, but y first question would be what have you got in his mouth? Then I would work on getting him forwards before worrying about the contact too much. For me, they have to be really swinging, and taking you before you take up a stronger contact.

Very tricky to say without knowing your horse but best of luck!
 

Ali16

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Thanks guys thats really helpful - will try combination of both - when schooling will try and long and low and will also try lunge (although I am ignorant so what do you mean by 2 lines ?) sorry for the stupidity

Not stupid at all!

If you have a line attached to both sides of the bit: the inside line you use just as a directional guide - try not to pull him round the circle - just like your inside rein. Then the line on the outside passes through a ring on the roller (important!) and either around his bottom (not great for when you first start this technique - can get all in a muddle!!:p) or over his back where the roller is positioned.

You should then think about the fact that the outside rein, when ridden and trained correctly, will indicate depth of head and neck carriage and speed (obviously when ridden threre are other aids too for these so don't be too hard with the rein). So the outside rein should be doing 10 x the work that the inside rein is doing.

I tend to do this kind of work until my ponies are happy to trot around long and low and stretching into and trusting the contact.

I would say, however, that the MOST important thing with any work like this is to be consistent. Horses (and people) do not trust inconsistency!

Good luck!:eek:
 

meesha

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brilliant explanation ! have only ever lunged with side reins and one line but will try that tomorrow as it makes sense ! totally agree about being consistent.

Thanks x
 

dressager

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For a start don't ever walk with side reins on as it can ruin the walk. And attach the lunge rein either directly to the inside bit ring or a cavesson, as putting the lunge over the head to the opposite side bit ring acts like a gag to raise the head.

The downside with side reins is that they are too fixed, if the horse tries to stretch down it then tends to bring the head behind the vertical and they may hold it there with tension through the back and neck, rather than stretching into the contact.

Another better type of rein to encourage the head forwards and down is the Lauffer rein, but they aren't that easy to get hold of, they are more common in Germany. This is a double rein which slides as the horse stretches down. Like side reins the Lauffer rein restricts movement of the neck in a sideways direction so are easy to use (more user skill needed with non lateral stabilising gadgets)

Funny as I was watching a Markus Bauer clinic the other day, having only read about these reins in theory, and he uses them and you can buy them through him, although he iscurrently out of stock!

Once the horse is going actively forwards and stretching into the contact on the lunge then start riding in the same way.
 

meesha

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bit guilty of just hacking (charging around the medips/quantocks a favorite) with odd schooling session or odd bit of jumping mixed in with lunging/loose schooling. Havent done masses of sitting trot - lazyness on my part as schooling not favorite thing - he can when the mood takes him do an amazing extended trot and also piaffe (usually when monsters appear behind bushes) although this is not on demand. Most of the problem I think is that he hates schooling as much as I do ! his arena is also his winter turnout/playpen which doesnt help !
 

Tempi

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Hiya,

IMHO loooaddds of work on the lunge with two lines works a treat. I usually put side reins on loose too so that they can't 'escape' totally. Then once settled and not panicy/ stressy about it on the lunge progress to ridden work.

There are so many little things that could cause a horse to not go into the contact but I think that lunging is usually the best place to start! :p

I also lunge my horses (including youngsters) with two lunge lines and loose side reins, it really encourages them to stretch forwards into the contact and to move freely IMO.
 

Wheels

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just sat her (avoiding bookeeping I should be doing) and thinking about it he is better in sitting trot ! mmmm

in that case it may be that he's not avoiding the contact but that your leg aids are a little more consistant in sitting trot than they are in rising and so you aren't pushing him through in the same way in rising trot as sitting, walking or cantering

My instructor pointed this out to me in a lesson - we were doing lots of no stirrup work in sitting trot and my horse went amazingly well & she said it was because my leg was more consistant than when I do rising trot, no matter how hard I try to keep my lower leg still, I always end up with a slight swing. This is the reason my horses all seem to go better in walk & canter than they do in trot

Not saying this is your problem but it may help you a little :)
 

meesha

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thanks for tip ! you could well be right so I will concentrate on legs next time - gives me something to work on.

Forum is great - training tips without the cost !
 

LaurenM

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I've found that a French link snaffle bit, long & low in the warm up, side reins and a lot of leg works. It'll take a few times to get it consistent :)
 
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