How to load naughty horse when on own...

wench

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Stupid phone... Horse loaded fine at home, got to show centre, I had booked a stable so she could adjust to everything and chill for an hour or so until it was our turn in the school for the clear round.

Well behaved in the school, back in stable for half an hour or so to untack and unwind.

Then took 45 minutes to load the damned thing, and only because some nice man eventually came to help me. I ended up covered in mud and ****e... Being barged Past and nearly pushed over which is clearly not acceptable.

Horse travels well, has excellent ground manners, nothing wrong with trailer, horse was just being a pig (had one like this before).

She doesn't go out an awful lot, so dont mind so much when she stands on the ramp at home and thinks about it. Normally a tap on the side and walk on does the trick.

Obviously we will be practising at home, however still only generally me to do the dirty deed. If someone stood behind her with a broom and gave a prod she'd be straight in. Food doesn't work, tried that.

Any suggestions?
 

lex2501

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Stupid phone... Horse loaded fine at home, got to show centre, I had booked a stable so she could adjust to everything and chill for an hour or so until it was our turn in the school for the clear round.

Well behaved in the school, back in stable for half an hour or so to untack and unwind.

Then took 45 minutes to load the damned thing, and only because some nice man eventually came to help me. I ended up covered in mud and ****e... Being barged Past and nearly pushed over which is clearly not acceptable.

Horse travels well, has excellent ground manners, nothing wrong with trailer, horse was just being a pig (had one like this before).

She doesn't go out an awful lot, so dont mind so much when she stands on the ramp at home and thinks about it. Normally a tap on the side and walk on does the trick.

Obviously we will be practising at home, however still only generally me to do the dirty deed. If someone stood behind her with a broom and gave a prod she'd be straight in. Food doesn't work, tried that.

Any suggestions?

Ouch I feel your pain - nothing more frustrating!!

Take a surcingle and lunge line with you. Clip lunge line to either headcollar - or bit on bridle and then loop through surcingle between front legs. It has the effect of bringing them into submission as when they pull away, they are in effect pulling against themselves and not you. I'm not explaining this very well at all but it works well and worth a try! Good luck :)
 

Grey_Eventer

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Mine used to be like this- simple answer, tie a long piece of string to one side of the headcollar, flick over the back or bum, hold onto the other end and that should do the trick! Works a treat with mine!
 

tigers_eye

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William is a toad to load, in fact he is worse if someone is behind him as he focusses his energy on them. I have a parelli headcollar that lives in the lorry, works pretty well, I also have a dressage whip, i tickle the next leg I want him to move, if he runs backwards he gets tapped on the chest until he moves in the right direction again. Getting cross is the worst I can do, I have spent up to two hours to get him in. Funnily enough when it's pouring rain he gets in faster! I have experimented with partition width, and he actually seems more amenable to getting in after a journey where he's been shut in quite tightly, rather than with more room. Another thing that can help is parking on a slope, so ramp is nearer horizontal.
 

Bettyboo222

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We use too lunge lines, one clipped to headcollar and threaded through tie ring other one clipped on oppisite side of the trailer and around the horses bum just below the dock, put pressure on both, one will push horse other will pull.
 

PorkChop

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Can't recommend the Richard Maxwell/Monty Roberts headcollar highly enough for this situation.

Many a time I have been asked to load other peoples horses at shows with this headcollar.

If you do get one, spend a few minutes a day for about a week getting them used to it, Good Luck.
 

KatieLovesJames

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I used to have an awkward loader and found backing into my gateway worked because she felt enclosed and the only way forward was up the ramp. When we had a really bad day I'd tie string to the gate and pull it over behind her to encourage her forwards. As above never losing my temper helped too. Good luck
 

Angua2

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We use too lunge lines, one clipped to headcollar and threaded through tie ring other one clipped on oppisite side of the trailer and around the horses bum just below the dock, put pressure on both, one will push horse other will pull.

Might give this a go on saturday, when I will be in the same predicament as the OP:D
 

wench

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I was just about to say two lunge lines sound good, but my trailer is only rear unload so that might not work...
 

trickivicki

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I would highly recommend a dually (although Dad made me one the other day out of a proper headcollar and a bit of a another headcollar, let me know if you want instructions)
 

scribble

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I hd this this year with my mare would lod fine at home and someone to help there buit at shows (she is only 4) she would try it on and lunge lines didnt work as she either just stood there or went backwards so you could nt get them behind her as she was too far from trailer. I use bridle with headcollar over the top as she is 16.3 and was draggin me around clip lunge line onto bit and have lunge whip in other hand, keep on really short rope do not look at her and tap her behind you and say walk on be really firm, stand there, if she deviates pull her back round and keep calm and eventually she goes on. now she is fine.
 

LouS

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Practice, practice, practice at home until he will load 20 times with no hesitation, then repeat the next day and the next day. Never let him turn away once you've approached the ramp. If you want a horse that loads well you need to put the work in, horses learn through repetition.

I use a Richard Maxwell halter on difficult loaders and school them in it for 15/20mins first until they understand it. I have yet to find a horse I cannot load in it. As long as you are firm and clear and patient it will work.

I actually hate having someone "help" me load, I really don't want someone trying to chase a horse from behind when I'm stood in front of it because I'm the one who'll get splattered.
 

MissSBird

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Another point towards the richard maxwell halter.

Our fell is very stubborn. Great traveller but if she didn't want to load she let you know. We could be there for up to an hour, tried lunge ropes round the bum, round the breeching bar so she was pulling on herself, all that stuff. Used to take three of us, and at least one person would get bruised and we'd all be exhausted and flustered before getting anywhere!

Ended up being persuaded into a richard maxwell halter by a friend for my bolshy youngster. Since we had it, figured I might as well try it. But honestly, what use could a headcollar make to such a stubborn mare.

I wish I hadn't been so god damn determined it wouldn't work. Now, if she even decides she's not going, it just takes one person and 5 minutes of quiet pressure and release to make her walk in. No bruises, no anger, no stress. Quiet calm and easy.

My biggest regret is not trying them sooner! Would have saved me three years of stressful mornings that made me physically ill at the thought of travelling her anywhere.
 

tinap

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I use the Eskidron headcollar with the chain on it. It's very rare that he decides he doesn't want to load, but when he does, there's no fighting with his big head! I just won't win that battle!!
I keep the headcollar in the trailer so if he does start to be a plank, on it goes & in he goes first time.
 

SophieLouBee

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I have a 16.2hh beast who is a shite to load. It's not his fault though, he is big upwards and outwards, and someone tried to load him onto a trailer that was too small when he was young, he promptly exploded through the side wall of said trailer...

It takes him a while, but he does go in. I just persist with a calm but quite loud voice (he ignores anyone unless they speak up haha), food has no effect. I have found that walking him through front unload ones has really helped, as he knows he won't be trapped in there and have to back out (he finds backing up very hard, even though he performs rein back perfectly well in a test....)

It's just a case of him realising I don't give up, if I loaded him every week he'd probably be better. I wouldn't use a chiffney or a pressure halter on him, as he already associates it with being uncomfortable anyway, he's not naughty, just cautious. Once he realises that Mum (me) is stood in and it isn't going to eat him, he comes in and has a sniff and is fine. Time is the key with him, if you rush he is 10 times worse.
 

Lowen Ki

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Another vote for the dually halter - but only once you've a proper understanding of how to use it and have practised lots doing handling on the ground before you start to load with it - the horse needs to understand how it works to apply it to a loading situation. I can honestly say that no matter the severity of the loading problems I've encountered - for whatever reason they exist - handling a horse in a dually will always solve their loading issues.
 

eatmoremincepies

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Patience and practise at home. Dually/rope halter is excellent but you need to use it properly, not just for extra muscle.

Practise loading in different places at home rather than always the same place. Practise with other horses walking past, noise, as many distractions as you can until she is foot perfect. If she has loaded perfectly 50 times at home with distractions going on in the background, she is much more likely to load at a show. Would not bother with the solo loader thing, waste of money.
 

Lowen Ki

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Patience and practise at home. Dually/rope halter is excellent but you need to use it properly, not just for extra muscle.

Practise loading in different places at home rather than always the same place. Practise with other horses walking past, noise, as many distractions as you can until she is foot perfect. If she has loaded perfectly 50 times at home with distractions going on in the background, she is much more likely to load at a show. Would not bother with the solo loader thing, waste of money.

Well said - I've seen the Dually used incorrectly with just as poor results as any other loading 'tricks' - if it's used correctly and you put the time in with training it will cure the problem rather than treat the symptom.
 

*hic*

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ARGH - I dont "DO" bad loaders. Mine have all come to an understanding that they just go in. It's bliss.

Then I bought the new boy and he is a naughty little monster who is testing me out in various ways - and the latest is loading. He's been in and out of the lorry dozens of times and then decided "NO". I've tried standing there waiting, I've tried backing him up until he wants to go forwards, he has had all his meals on the lorry for four days and walked in perfectly every time, but I think the thing that convinced him that it's not worth trying to hard to avoid going on was the day I just made him walk round me at the end of his leadrope until he decided that going in was better. I didn't get cross, I didn't get upset, I didn't get aggressive, I just stuck him on a circle, mainly on his stiffer side, and made him keep walking. There was no interaction, I didn't even look at him, other than to tell him to walk on when he slowed. It took an hour and ten minutes. It was after that that I fed him on there for four days. He has tried it on again since and I like to keep a selection of solutions available, but other than the bowl of feed (which I feel is pandering to his naughtiness) the things that work for me are definitely the circling at the bottom of the ramp but also a lungerein clipped to the headcollar and through a tie ring in the lorry and back to my hand, then I hold the leadrein as well to stop him going away from me and stand by his quarters and touch his back legs with a schooling whip.

For my horse though I suspect the circling will be the solution. He's not frightened or worried, he's just saying "I'm bigger than you and I don't think I will". He is a clever horse and a thinker and he's worked out so far that circling is a boring pain in the arse and that when he's offered an opportunity to stand quietly on the lorry he should take it. I just hope he doesn't realise he could quite easily pull away from me and bog off. Yesterday I suppose it took him three minutes of circling before he decided that I wasn't going to give up.

Good luck with loading yours!
 

TarrSteps

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Control halter will do the trick for most horses (there are lots of options and I prefer not to give Monty any more of my money than totally necessary ;) ) if you train the horse to them and use them properly. It's worth practising, not just slapping it on and having a go, as some horses can react very strongly to them and it only takes a second to have a tragedy.

When I go off to do loading training, I wouldn't say I use the same system for every horse - it depends on the horse's natural inclinations, how the box is set up, what the handler finds easier or harder, the area where they are likely to load etc. Basically I see it as a leading problem and I'm interested in how often how the horse evades loading also comes up in other areas or handling, even riding. Then it comes down to having a system and sticking to it! (Quite often if a horse has been bad, then is good again, then in bad again, it's because the system has changed or another factor has been altered.)

If the horse is barging you around, you have to deal with that first. Ground work exercises are very good for this, using your own body and whatever control means you decide on to make sure you can move the horse where you want, when you want. Always.

Then establish a way to get the horse to Come Forward (pressure from the lead) and Go Forward (driving from behind) and make sure this is never in question. This is where a pressure halter can help because, in effect, the halter takes over the job of showing the horse how to relieve the pressure. I like to make sure the horse understands Go Forward, too, although if you're alone this is not usually the priority. (Worth teaching though, on principle.)

Most of all STAY CALM. Decide on a course of action and stick to it, don't chop and change if it doesn't work immediately. If you can, get someone knowledgeable to work through it with you and decide which system will work for you. I think this is often most helpful because the outside party is not emotionally involved in the situation and is able to keep the tension level low. (Almost every time I do a loading training session someone tells me how calm I am, which really surprises me, as it would suggest it's not the norm. And I'm not that calm. :))
 

kerilli

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as above. practise practise practise at home. i spent literally hours teaching the youngsters to lead really civilly, and then getting naughty Daisy to bring herself calmly and nicely into the lorry (for food and fuss, every time), now she's fine.
Beware of the 'lunge ropes around bum' thing though, esp on your own, because I've seen horses kick out at one, get a leg over it, and then all sorts of things can happen.
Oh, and allow 2 hours, however frustrating it is, because then it'll take 2 mins... and the alternative applies too!
 

Polotash

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Old fashioned rope halter... does the same job as Monty Roberts/ Dually etc. Use it a couple of times on the ground first tho (2 x 2 min sessions is enough for them to twig usually), they just have to learn that a tug means "step forward" and that when they do it goes slack.. Once they've mastered that you're away...

For babies and "bad" loaders (you might say yours isn't a bad loader she's just being a madam!) I have a bucket of food, a clicker and a rope halter. You tug, they step forward, you click and treat. Backwards gets ignored, but they can't barge because you have the halter (wear gloves!). All my babies learn like this and I've never failed to get a difficult loader in because you really simplify it for them.. all this pushing and pulling might work in the short term but you arn't really teaching them cause and effect...
 

Lowen Ki

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... all this pushing and pulling might work in the short term but you arn't really teaching them cause and effect...

^^^^^^^^^^^^^This is so true!

And as in the post above, I've seen plenty of lunge lines around bums go horribly wrong as well - and then you've only made the problem worse. Best to fix it totally rather than just fight with it each time you go out. A bit of investment and understanding goes such a long way with loading problems. :)
 

wench

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She leads around like a lamb, stands and waits for gates etc (I will not tolerate bad manners!) Backs herself up in the stable when asked. Just decided to be Miss Piggy!
 
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