How to make a 6 month old foal walk without dragging you

[thatsmygirl]

Hi iv got a very big built native foal, he's very well behaved but his only fault is he will drag you out to the field. What's the best way to make him walk nicely? Iv tried pushing/little slap on his chest but he sets his neck and he's gone. Honestly I can hardly hold him and need to stop it now before he gets bigger and stronger and before the frost is here and I won't be able to grip on the floor

 

[DuckToller]

Hmmm, tricky one. Can you get anyone to help you? I would perhaps lead him on a lunge line, and have two of you holding it (both on the same side). If he starts pulling, let him get so far then both pull hard on the line to stop him. After a couple of tries, he should start to realise that it gets him nowhere fast, as long as you can both hold him - and make sure you wear gloves. Also what are you leading him in - could you try a rope threaded through the noseband so there is a little more pressure?

You do need to nip this in the bud, although as a baby he needs to understand that you are working with him not against him and as he gains confidence in you he might not be so desperate to get to the field. Is he having to spend a lot of time stabled? Is he frantic to get to his friends - in which case could you aim to be there to turn out the same time as another horse is turned out. Or could he stay out for longer - as a young horse the more time he is out in the field, the better really.

 

[Queenbee]

Ok, well I am probably going to get my head totally chewed off but I have seen this work to excellent effect. I had a very very wild youngster who ended up being the best horse to lead that I have had. She was put in a stable with a headcollar (when someone was around to oversee her and a flat leadrope was attached (flat ones do not tangle up or get knotted) she taught herself by standing on leadrope, she learnt very very quickly the concept of pressure and release. If she was ever being led and felt the slightest bit of pressure she would not pull against it, she would stop and wait for me.

Other techniques that I have used include using a long rope and threading it over the poll and through the metal that joins the nose band and the headpiece of the headcollar together and leading the horse like this. It works a bit like a pressure halter, I find that they tend to respect this and have used it on many horses that have a tendency to take the ickey when being led.

Although from what you have said I would use option one, he will use his own strength against himself and teach himself, as long as you have a safe stable and a 'flat leadrope'

 

[3DE]

Although from what you have said I would use option one, he will use his own strength against himself and teach himself, as long as you have a safe stable and a 'flat leadrope'

I've done that too - fully supervised of course. For the same foal I also tied up to a metal post to teach him to tie up - he cottoned on pretty quick that he could break baling twine

OP have you tried a rope halter? If you get one that is thicker than the standard 6mm ones it should be good enough to stop him but not severe enough to put a lot of pressure on his little head

 

[Queenbee]

I've done that too - fully supervised of course. For the same foal I also tied up to a metal post to teach him to tie up - he cottoned on pretty quick that he could break baling twine

OP have you tried a rope halter? If you get one that is thicker than the standard 6mm ones it should be good enough to stop him but not severe enough to put a lot of pressure on his little head

Yep, I used a metal post for my youngster in question too That one was only a darty!!! Honestly, the woman who was working on her with me is a professional horse breaker, she said in all her years she had never seen such a strong minded stroppy little diva!

 

[Spit That Out]

When one of my youngsters got a bit strong, i put the lead rope around his nose (like an extra noseband) and when he got in front of me he got a sharp tug to a standstill. I would stand for a few moments and then carry on walking. He soon realised he wasn't getting there any quicker.
I have also tried clipping the rope to the normal clip and then putting the lead rope though the side ring nearest you, letting them get in front then a sharp tug while you stand still. Make him walk behind you (turn a circle), stand and then carry on walking.
All the time using firm, clear verbal instructions to back up your aids.
A sneaky way which many people don't like, is to let him see you putting a carrot in your pocket, every few strides keep his attention by showing him and if necessary giving him a bit of the carrot...my greedy youngster was so preoccupied with the carrot that he stuck to me like glue...i only have to put my hand near my pocket now and any other distractions (even horses galloping in the field next to him) seem to have disappeared.

 

[Snickers]

What about using a dually headcollar? When used correctly they work wonders.

 

[ladyt25]

I have had a lady help me a bit with my youngster with some leading issues (not the same as yours but he too appears a bit bolshy). Without going into a length essay type reply, what she said to me basically is the issue arises from the horse not bening balanced. Because of this they may find it hard to walk/stand how you expect them to and, as he may be finding it difficult to walk how you want him to he has learnt that running on his forehand is easier and so he continues to do it.

It is difficult to explain without being there but essentially she taught me some ground work exercises to do to help my horse balance himself which in turn will help him be able to stand still and stop biting me when leading. I would suggest similar for yours.

Get yourself a control headcollar as this will make your 'instructions' a bit clearer for him and practice having him stood with you.

All you need is you, a control headcollar and a schooling whip. Ensure he is not frightened on the whip (use it to stroke him etc til he is comfortable) and, assuming he is not then lightly tap him on one of his sides (where you would use your leg). Increase the strength of the 'tap' (you may have to be quite firm - just rapid taps) until he steps forwards, then praise him and walk him on, slowly for a few strides. Ask him to stand (you stay infront facing him) if he does not stand and moves towrads you, tap the front of his legs (the one you wish him to step back on) above the knee and apply pressure on his nose. Again increase the intensity of the 'tapping until he steps back then stop and praise. Do the same with the other leg. If he moves them forwards then repeat the action. Once he is stood then you should be able to stand facing him and he should not move - he is then 'parked'.

Repeat the exercises asking him to walk on using the tapping on his sides, going back etc ec. Make sure you work on both sides evenly and at no point do you punish him or hit him with the whip. he will soon cotton on and you will only have to use a light tap to get him to walk on. When he does walk on, make sure it is a slow walk, if he rushes then ask him to stand and got back again. It is alll about getting him to balance properly on his back end not his front.

They will not find it easy to start with but believe me it does work - it may sound bizarre and is not easy to explain on a mail but I have been practicing with mine and he is getting much better at standing and has stopped biting so much. I think ground work is essentially for these youngsters. Do not see them as 'naughty' they do not have that thought process - he is acting in a certain way as it is easier for him to do it that way.