Long reining tips please!

[Rudey]

Rox, (coloured in my signature), turned 3 years old at the beginning of April. I plan to long rein him this summer. After almost 17 years in horses, I have never long reined - lunged yes (my other horse) - but not long reined! So I would like some tips please.

One thing I am not prepared to do just yet with Rox, is lunging. Each to their own, but I do not want to lunge him until next year. I want to give his bones chance to develop and not put unnecessary pressure on his joints.

I have a friend down at the yard that regularly long reins two of her horses, and so I have asked to tag along, so she can show me the ropes. Which is fantastic, however, I am aware she will be showing me on two horses that have been long reined for years - not a fresh youngster.

There's a natural horsemanship lady up in the next village to me, I met her at an event where they had done a display involving long reining. I had spoken to her about coming out to help me also. So I have plenty of experienced people on hand.

So far, Rox is bitted (does inhand showing), he is use to having a roller on, and I have been introducing him to lunge lines this week. I have attached the rein to his bit, rubbed along his body/legs, stretched it out infront/ at his side/ and behind him, then progressed to two lines either side, with me stood behind him. He has taken it all in his stride, and is unphased. **TOUCHES WOOD**

Has anyone got any tips for me? The do's and don'ts... What to look out for? Problems I may run into? How to resolve them? Would you do it with a roller on? Would you thread the reins through the roller? If so, at what stage would you introduce that at? If not, why not?

Any experiences/advice will be appreciated and welcomed! Thanks in advance! xx

 

[canteron]

To start with always stand to one side or the other - if you stand directly behind the horse can easily drag you, so while he is learning what you want always be ready to bring him into a circle on the left or the right.

Changing direction can also be a vunerable point - so do this very cautiously until your horse really understand what you want.

And lastly, if you can spare them - cut down some lunge lines to begin with. There is nothing like having a horse go a tad crazy and your feet getting caught up in the lines on the ground to make you feel extremely vunerable!!

Lastly, wear snug fitting gloves!

Good luck.

 

[hayinamanger]

It's a big help to have someone with you to lead the horse at first. When he starts to get the hang of it, the helper can then unclip their lead rein but still walk beside the horse, progressing to a greater distance away. I let the horse 'follow' the helper through turns and halts.

If you are on your own, clip a lunge rein to the cavesson back to you, without going through the roller ring/stirrup irons, so that you will still have control if it starts to go wrong. Once a horse turns to face you with long reins through the rings, you can quickly get into a right mess and the horse can parcel himself up in the long reins. A separate lunge line is a life saver (it needs to be a different colour to the long lines so that you can identify it) Then just drop the long reins and go to his head with the lunge rein.

 

[concino]

So glad to hear someone NOT starting a young horse on the lunge ! 2 reins are better than 1 at any age: have you tried going round and round in circles? Everyone should, they would soon understand the pressures that are placed on the legs and joints at any age - particularly for young, unbalanced horses. Circles and bends can be done on long lines to gradually build strength and increase flexibility - but in a small manageable way.

Re. Long lining: I always start young (or restart) horses on the cavesson. Use side reins attached to the bit but initially (at least) to create 'a feel' - definitely not (and never)to 'fix' the head. When you start, keep the reins in the lowest rings - only moving up when you have reached a high level of control and the horse is fairly safe. To begin with, it is best to keep at least one rein out of the ring - on the side you are working. That way, if there is a problem, you drop the outside rein and can control with the inside (the one out of the ring).

Do not work from directly behind the horse: this is a blind spot. Always work slightly to one side so that you remain clearly visible to the horse at all times. I cannot state too highly the importance of eye contact: think of this as an imaginary 'line of control'. If you want to prove the importance of this, take your eyes away when you are working your horse and note the difference in his response/ the loss of control. Use plenty of verbal encouragement- this is especially important for the young and restarts.

Lastly, think of Long reining as 'riding from the ground'. Use your body as you would change your weight if in the saddle, slightly to the right to go right and vice versa. You will be surprised at how responsive to your positioning your horse will become: when you move [for example to the right] he will start to turn to the right. Use the reins to apply a contact to indicate and pressure to 'move' the quarters - but always start with the lightest of both (with plenty of verbal encouragement) and build as required. Odd though it may sound, think of the reins as your legs and use accordingly !! Don't forget that patience and appropriately timed praise works: impatience and punishment confuses and will not work. GOOD LUCK - this young horse looks to be very lucky !!!!!

 

[Rudey]

To start with always stand to one side or the other - if you stand directly behind the horse can easily drag you, so while he is learning what you want always be ready to bring him into a circle on the left or the right.

Changing direction can also be a vunerable point - so do this very cautiously until your horse really understand what you want.

And lastly, if you can spare them - cut down some lunge lines to begin with. There is nothing like having a horse go a tad crazy and your feet getting caught up in the lines on the ground to make you feel extremely vunerable!!

Lastly, wear snug fitting gloves!

Good luck.

Thanks for the advice. I would have made the mistake of following straight behind him if I hadn't of read this. It makes perfect sense reading that. Gloves are indeed a must! xx

 

[Rudey]

It's a big help to have someone with you to lead the horse at first. When he starts to get the hang of it, the helper can then unclip their lead rein but still walk beside the horse, progressing to a greater distance away. I let the horse 'follow' the helper through turns and halts.

If you are on your own, clip a lunge rein to the cavesson back to you, without going through the roller ring/stirrup irons, so that you will still have control if it starts to go wrong. Once a horse turns to face you with long reins through the rings, you can quickly get into a right mess and the horse can parcel himself up in the long reins. A separate lunge line is a life saver (it needs to be a different colour to the long lines so that you can identify it) Then just drop the long reins and go to his head with the lunge rein.

That's what I was thinking about, starting him off in that way. Reasons as you have stated, but also, I am restricted with my mobility due to a severe ankle break nearly 2 years ago. My friend has offered to be my leader for a just in case measure for me!

Ah thank you for explaining that. I can now see why it could be an issue with threading lines through the roller. I previously assumed it would be advantageous in that, if he ran off loose, the lines would be through the roller and him less likely to stand on the ends with his fronts and panic. It makes sense what you said, in sense of control. xx

 

[Borderreiver]

I'm busy with my young Highlands long reining, at least we are headed that way. I have a helper at present, invaluable. We have got to the point of walking and halting, helper walking beside pony, me to the rear/side with the long reins.
I started with teaching 'stand on your mat' using the clicker. The mat, in this case a plywood square, becomes the safe 'home' in the arena. When they get good at this game, then also good at walking off when asked, I use the mat for things like standing to have the roller on, then attaching the lines, letting them touch their sides, flap to the ground etc. All so far so good, building up gradually.
I'm no expert but I'm really enjoying teaching the babies in a way we can both understand and stay safe with.

 

[Rudey]

So glad to hear someone NOT starting a young horse on the lunge ! 2 reins are better than 1 at any age: have you tried going round and round in circles? Everyone should, they would soon understand the pressures that are placed on the legs and joints at any age - particularly for young, unbalanced horses. Circles and bends can be done on long lines to gradually build strength and increase flexibility - but in a small manageable way.

Re. Long lining: I always start young (or restart) horses on the cavesson. Use side reins attached to the bit but initially (at least) to create 'a feel' - definitely not (and never)to 'fix' the head. When you start, keep the reins in the lowest rings - only moving up when you have reached a high level of control and the horse is fairly safe. To begin with, it is best to keep at least one rein out of the ring - on the side you are working. That way, if there is a problem, you drop the outside rein and can control with the inside (the one out of the ring).

Do not work from directly behind the horse: this is a blind spot. Always work slightly to one side so that you remain clearly visible to the horse at all times. I cannot state too highly the importance of eye contact: think of this as an imaginary 'line of control'. If you want to prove the importance of this, take your eyes away when you are working your horse and note the difference in his response/ the loss of control. Use plenty of verbal encouragement- this is especially important for the young and restarts.

Lastly, think of Long reining as 'riding from the ground'. Use your body as you would change your weight if in the saddle, slightly to the right to go right and vice versa. You will be surprised at how responsive to your positioning your horse will become: when you move [for example to the right] he will start to turn to the right. Use the reins to apply a contact to indicate and pressure to 'move' the quarters - but always start with the lightest of both (with plenty of verbal encouragement) and build as required. Odd though it may sound, think of the reins as your legs and use accordingly !! Don't forget that patience and appropriately timed praise works: impatience and punishment confuses and will not work. GOOD LUCK - this young horse looks to be very lucky !!!!!

A VERY valid point made about 'have you tried to run around in a circle'... I couldn't agree more, my thoughts exactly.

When I got Rox (at 9.5 months), lunging was one of the things that I researched as it was something I wasn't certain of 'when' it could be introduced. Admittedly back then, I thought you could start them off when they were 2.5 years old. There were a variety of opinions sought through a number of experienced people I respected in the horse world, combined with reading up on it a fair bit too.

It was a chiropractor that scared the hell out of me of the 'what can happen', and the effects caused by too much too soon. She had told me she treats many horses under the age of 10 for arthritic conditions due to being worked too hard, too fast, too young. In her opinion, she said she wouldn't start them until they were 4 or 5 at the earliest (depending on their musculoskeletal system). I'd never forgive myself if I ruined him by asking too much of him too soon. I am not in any rush with my little man.

In fairness, the only reason I have considered to lunge him as a 4 year old next year, is because that is when I plan to have him broken in. I know the lady doing it for me, will start him off lunging, possibly progressing to her on his back on the lunge.

You have given me some fantastic advice and information in your post concino. Thank you very much. I will take it all on board, and hopefully learn from it. I especially appreciate the eye contact and body language tips. I chat to him constantly, and I am very vocal whilst doing groundwork bearing in mind he does inhand showing. He so far understands 'stand, walk, trot, whoah, no, and good boy!'

It's a massive responsibility having a youngster, and I know mistakes will be made a long the way, but I don't want to start him off incorrectly and ruin my handsome little chap! So I will absorb all the information/advice I can in an attempt to get it right from the start! Thank you for the good luck! xx

 

[Rudey]

I'm busy with my young Highlands long reining, at least we are headed that way. I have a helper at present, invaluable. We have got to the point of walking and halting, helper walking beside pony, me to the rear/side with the long reins.
I started with teaching 'stand on your mat' using the clicker. The mat, in this case a plywood square, becomes the safe 'home' in the arena. When they get good at this game, then also good at walking off when asked, I use the mat for things like standing to have the roller on, then attaching the lines, letting them touch their sides, flap to the ground etc. All so far so good, building up gradually.
I'm no expert but I'm really enjoying teaching the babies in a way we can both understand and stay safe with.

What an interesting way of doing it. My friend had told me about the mat thing. Not in relation to long reining, but something to do with making it a 'safe home', so if the horse became stressed in a situation, they could stand on their 'safe mat' to comfort them and help in a situation.

I was interested in clicker training, but I never followed it up as it involved treats (initially), and I have strong opinions on tit-bitting my two. Reason being they are very greedy and get nippy with food.

I must agree with you - teaching a baby to do something is such an achievement to be proud of. Very heart warming eh! xx

 

[Sugarplum Furry]

I've just started long lining my very feisty Exmoor, it's been quite a learning curve for us both, but having previously been on the Monty Roberts IH courses I think I have the edge. The main points...

Tack. I use a headcollar and put the lines on the side. I'm using a saddle, I tie the stirrups down under his belly with an old stirrup leather. I then run the lines through the stirrups.

Starting off. I'm behind him but slightly to one side so I have eye contact with him. This keeps him in a straight line. If he tries to turn in towards me I walk slightly more towards him to keep him, maintaining eye contact, and put pressure on the outside rein to keep him going forward.

Changing direction. Shorten the inside rein and lengthen the inside rein. Put yourself in a position to block him i.e use your body language to turn him. Open the outside rein to give him somewhere to go.

Watch his ears, he'll be listening to you and relying on you for direction. Be patient, he might not get it at first. Go slow.

A great exercise I learnt on the course, this sounds bonkers but it really helps. You need a good friend who's up for a laugh. You be the horse, your friend is the long liner. You are holding a long line in each hand. Your friend then long lines you. It's amazing how quickly you become a horse, you can sidestep snort and shy and generally play up but also it's fascinating how little pressure your friend needs to put on the lines for you to understand what she's asking you to do. Get your friend to do lots of body language, as you would with your horse, eye contact etc...

Hope this helps!!!

 

[Rudey]

It helped loads thank you Gala! I am absolutely laughing my socks off picturing the 'pretending to be horses' idea. Hilarious! I could have some fun there! I must say, it could be beneficial in that, I would appreciate what I was asking the horse, and how it communicates through aid and body language! Everyone at the yard are going to think I'm mad - that is, more than usual LOL! xx