More electric fence questions

[Nbuuifx]

I've got some experience of polytape electric fence from my in-laws but it probably isn't the best experience everything is just tied together etc.

I'd prefer to do it better where I can.

I have now planned out that I think I would like the following.

Polyrope going around the perimeter at two heights top and middle.

Then 20mm polytape to section off areas to rotate the grass.

The polyrope only needs to go on two sides to start with but I would like to add a 3rd side in later.

The starting length of the polyrope is 250m but twice for the 2 heights so I need 500m of that to start. The polytape can probably be around 200m.

I then want to add another 200m or so of polyrope in the future.

So question time!!

Can these all run off one 12v energiser ok?

Am I best to use the rope as the primary fixed source, then is there some kind of clip so I can clip the tape to the rope? So I can take a tee off?

I'm going to use insulators screwed into wooden posts for the polyrope - how far apart would you put these?

Do I need some kind of tensioner for polyrope?

How do I start and finish polyrope? Do I just tie it onto an insulator?

At the far corner should I just drop down from one insulator to another and then head all the way back? Or am I better to run two separate lines out from the start point?


Final question would plain steel wire be better than polyrope for the permanent part?

 

[Lady Jane]

If you go to the Voss website it will answer all your questions? I assume you mean a 12v battery? There will be energisers that can do this but you need to read the specs, The quality of your battery will also make a difference.

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They have given me very good advice on the phone

 

[Nbuuifx]

I have a 100Ah battery connected to a 120W solar panel. I aim to take the feed from here.

 

[meleeka]

There are loads of connectors available to make it tidy. Have a look on https://www.electric-fence.co.uk/?g...MI0e6t88yc_wIVk9_tCh02vQAWEAAYASAAEgKMEfD_BwE for ideas.

I personally wouldn’t use plain wire for horses.

 

[rextherobber]

Second asking Voss. They are super helpful.

 

[Errin Paddywack]

I have used the rope and didn't like it. I prefer to use the best quality string, it seems to carry the current better.

 

[Birker2020]

I have used the rope and didn't like it. I prefer to use the best quality string, it seems to carry the current better.

I agree. Rope is a nightmare to get through the gaps on the fence posts, you end up dividing the three parts of the rope (there are invariably three) and pushing them through separately.

Invest in some thick white or green tape. Green is great if you want to make it aesthetically more pleasing to the eye.

 

[Nbuuifx]

I agree. Rope is a nightmare to get through the gaps on the fence posts, you end up dividing the three parts of the rope (there are invariably three) and pushing them through separately.

Invest in some thick white or green tape. Green is great if you want to make it aesthetically more pleasing to the eye.

We've got loads of tape, but I was avoiding using it for the perimeter as it tends to catch the wind, and we didn't want it touching the wooden rails.

 

[Merry neddy man]

There are big variations in the number of conductors in tape, 4::6::8::9::12 conductors, the higher the number of conductors the more effective the system, buy carefully. (Screwfix don't seem bad on price and if not in stock can get it for next day.)

 

[Errin Paddywack]

I use the string with the most conductors in because I find it the most effective especially when it is only a back up to a proper fence. Tape has to be properly tensioned to try to prevent it flapping. The rope I used didn't have as many conductors in as the string and I have found the stretch I had still got was reducing the power when I tested it so I disconnected it.

 

[Nbuuifx]

I use the string with the most conductors in because I find it the most effective especially when it is only a back up to a proper fence. Tape has to be properly tensioned to try to prevent it flapping. The rope I used didn't have as many conductors in as the string and I have found the stretch I had still got was reducing the power when I tested it so I disconnected it.

So polystring around the perimeter instead of rope? What thickness of string do you recommend? And does it still need tensioning?

 

[Errin Paddywack]

I just use the one with the most wires in it, usually the most expensive and yes it still needs tensioning. You need solid end posts and corner posts. You can get specific corner posts that have a right angled foot. When I put in permanent fencing I used wooden end posts and on long stretches some intermediate wooden posts too with plastic posts in between. If I was doing it now I would use the metal posts that are available now, (see Voss) they weren't 25 yrs ago. Slack wire is dangerous. On permanent fencing, wooden posts and stock netting, we had a top strand of steel wire.
You can run one line just taking it through the end insulator then down to the next, just make sure the end post is firm so that you can tension the fence.

 

[Nbuuifx]

I just use the one with the most wires in it, usually the most expensive and yes it still needs tensioning. You need solid end posts and corner posts. You can get specific corner posts that have a right angled foot. When I put in permanent fencing I used wooden end posts and on long stretches some intermediate wooden posts too with plastic posts in between. If I was doing it now I would use the metal posts that are available now, (see Voss) they weren't 25 yrs ago. Slack wire is dangerous. On permanent fencing, wooden posts and stock netting, we had a top strand of steel wire.
You can run one line just taking it through the end insulator then down to the next, just make sure the end post is firm so that you can tension the fence.

Yes we have 6 foot posts every 1.8m. the end posts and corner posts have strainer posts at 45 degrees. The stock fencing is high tension and has been tensioned against these posts.

The stock fencing is 80cm high and we have a top rail and a middle rail.

So would you advise plain steel wire for the permanent rather than the string?

 

[Nasicus]

I've used Tape, string and rope.
String was naff, didn't get on with it at all. Might work if just lining an existing solid fence but found it snapped easily and not easy for the horses to see.
Tape works fine, unless it's really windy. Even tensioned properly it will just start to stretch and sag over time if it's particularly windy, and that can snap the conductor threads.
Rope was the best for my needs, didn't stretch in the wind and didn't snap too easily. I cut the rope and added connectors in multiple places in order to make break points should someone run into it.

Whichever you go for, buy the highest quality you can. Looks for what conductors it has running through it, and like with Voss it'll tell you what the resistance rating is, the lower the better as it means the current travels a lot further with less loss along the way.

 

[honetpot]

What ever conductor you use the power going through the fence is the most important factor, have the highest you get for your electric supply. It's far safer as if they get a good zap, they will never go near it again ,and get a audible voltage tester so you can walk the fence and work out where the leaks are.
This time of year you lose voltage through vegetation touching and moisture, tape holds more moisture, I always thinner tape as its easier to strain and use a reel system so I can move it easily.

 

[Parrotperson]

can you use the mains supply? That's always a preference because it'll do the whole thing with no problem. If using battery you'll need to check it regularly to make sure it's still working and I always had a fully charged spare battery available in case of emergency finding it wasn't working! Plus remember anything that touches the fence (stalks of grass tree branches etc will drain the battery or even stop the fence from working.

 

[Errin Paddywack]

Yes we have 6 foot posts every 1.8m. the end posts and corner posts have strainer posts at 45 degrees. The stock fencing is high tension and has been tensioned against these posts.

The stock fencing is 80cm high and we have a top rail and a middle rail.

So would you advise plain steel wire for the permanent rather than the string?

That sounds very similar to our fence except ours has no rails. A lot depends on what you want the electric to do. We screwed insulators onto the top of the posts so pointing upwards and ran hard wire through them. It was tensioned both ends. We also had a strand a bit further down the post, probably where you have a rail. Ours was to prevent horses pushing against the fence or leaning over it. You could also use offset insulators to hold the electric off the fence. Ours worked well for about 25yrs until intruders drove straight through it in a truck.

 

[Nbuuifx]

can you use the mains supply? That's always a preference because it'll do the whole thing with no problem. If using battery you'll need to check it regularly to make sure it's still working and I always had a fully charged spare battery available in case of emergency finding it wasn't working! Plus remember anything that touches the fence (stalks of grass tree branches etc will drain the battery or even stop the fence from working.

Nope, no mains.

 

[Nbuuifx]

That sounds very similar to our fence except ours has no rails. A lot depends on what you want the electric to do. We screwed insulators onto the top of the posts so pointing upwards and ran hard wire through them. It was tensioned both ends. We also had a strand a bit further down the post, probably where you have a rail. Ours was to prevent horses pushing against the fence or leaning over it. You could also use offset insulators to hold the electric off the fence. Ours worked well for about 25yrs until intruders drove straight through it in a truck.

It is mainly to stop them leaning over for fresh grass in the neighbours field. We've got one that will push the fence over with his chest given half a chance!

I'm thinking that maybe plain wire will be best, at the top and then in front of the mid rail. Using inline tensioners.