Natural Horsemanship and Lunging

Systems of horse training, pieces of tack . . .these sorts of things are just tools. It's not so much what you use, it's how you use them and proper use is judged by desireable results.

Take the analogy of a hammer. A hammer isn't anything by itself. Swing it carefully and correctly against a nail head and you can use it to drive the nail far more effectively than you could any other way. Smash the hammer in the general direction of the nail and you might get some driving done but you'll do a crap job and probably quite a bit of damage into the bargain. Swing the hammer around in a crowded pub and all of a sudden it's a tool for destruction.

Hammers are neutral. It's the hand that wields the hammer that determines it's effect.

And I can hear you saying "Who is this crazy foreigner and why is she nattering on about hammers???"

To make the point that systems like all the various forms of NH aren't good or bad, they're tools. And like any other tool they can be everything from very useful to very destructive. And learning about them, in my opinion, is best learnt from people, not books. Don't get me wrong, I love books. I have somewhere in the neighbourhood of 500 horse books and I use many of them for reference regularly. But horses don't read books. The best way to learn about horses is from horses and the best way to do that without screwing things up or being killed is to have an actual person there who can explain the subtleties in context.

Just my opinion.

To the original post . . .

When NH came into fashion (not that it technically ever went out but that's another story) I wondered what special problems would come to pass. Just as we all know other tools - flash nosebands, running reins, the German Competative School etc. etc. etc. - often cause specific problems which need to be particularly guarded against during their use, I figured NH would come with it's own likely evasions.

And the problem outlined in the OP is, in my experience one of them. If the "sending away" is not taught properly you end up with a panicking horse, especially on the longe. This might not be so evident in the round pen (where, exactly, is the horse going to go?) but it can show up big time in a larger area. (It also shows up when one is trying to catch the horse.) As to what to do about it . . . that's a tough one. Essentially the fundamental control we have over horses - compliant beasts that they are - is that they want to stay with us. Face it, if they weren't basically compliant we'd all be dead. Leading/longeing/loading is all predicated on the horse wanting to come with us AND not knowing it has the option of leaving. But if someone teaches the horse otherwise . . . yikes.

So you have to make the horse want to stay with you and you have to convince her that, should she want to leave for some reason, she can't actually pull away. Unfortunately she already knows that last bit.

To be perfectly honest this is tough to fix. I've had quite a few horses to retrain with this particular issue and I find it has a funny way of reaserting itself when they are scared or high.

But you can give it a shot.

What are you longing the horse off of? Bridle (if so what bit?)? Halter? Cavesson? How is she to tie and lead? Does she pull back? Pull away? Try to pull past you? On the small circle does she take the contact and give to it or just stay away from it? Have you worked her in side reins and if do does that work any better?

I would be inclined to start in a small space (but not a round pen) with the horse wearing a full cheek snaffle. First I would work on the ground and make sure I could move all the various parts of her - shoulders, quarters, neck, feet - wherever I wanted. I would make ABSOLUTELY sure I could move her away with my body language without upsetting her. I would find out how large a circle I could work on without her getting tense (not to the point of pulling away, just the start of anxiety) then I would play back and forth between that size and her comfort zone. I would try to encourage a mild resistance if possible, just enough to have her hit the end of the rein with a bit of pressure and hopefully give to it even if she stops and turns to face me (which she probably will). Of course all this advice might change if I was actually standing there watching the horse . . .

Do you know a "problem horse" trainer you trust? Could you get that person to at least observe and offer an opinion?
 
Thank you Tia, but if I had access to a round pen, I think I'd be laughing tbh! It's a 20x45 school. though there is a tiny paddock (about 20x25), that I could ask about using....... if I taped off the corners......... The trust thing is what I can't work out with this - we have such a good relationship in everything else. She takes ages for anyone else to load, but toddles on after me, she looks for me and talks to me loads and follows me round the field, but on the end of a lunge line, different animal
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Thank you for all of that! Really appreciated.

In answer to your questions, she is either bitted with an eggbutt french link, or a straight bar happy mouth. I tend 'attempt' to lunge her off a leather coupling and the back of the noseband, or just the back of the noseband or a head collar under/over the bridle. The nose band is a flash (non-crank), though I never do the lower strap up very tightly, as she doesn't open her mouth - hard to find a bridle without a flash these days. I use a rollar and side reins for long reining - we have done about 10 miles of tracks this last week (I AM SHATTERED) and I attempt the lunging after a session out on the tracks. I have tried without side reins and also altering the length and positioning of them quite drastically - no difference at all. When working on the long lines, she generally goes along in an outline, unless she is gawping at the scenery
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She is angelic to lead and tie up (though sometimes she unties the knot, so she can help me around the yard
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) She has never pulled back and broken free in the 2yrs I've had her - if she has ever pulled back when tied up, she feels the rope tightening and lifts her head and kinda strains forwards, so as not to put pressure on the headcollar - she does this is ever having a moment inhand too! I recognise this an NH type thing - knowing where the end of the rope is and not challenging it - wish she did the same on the lunge. Do you think trying her with just an NH style halter would be worth trying? I have a Be Nice Halter, that I bought for her yearling son, but it fits her too. There is someone I kinda trust in theory, but have never seen him work a horse........ he has suggested using a balancing rein through the flash part of her noseband??
 
Yes I agree if you had access to a smaller area things would be easier for you.

I know that B and you are fabulous together, what I mean't about the trust thing is the previous handler mustn't have had her trust before s/he started to try their hand at join-up/training, however if it had been done correctly from the word "go" then the B would have understood the actions of the handler and you wouldn't be having this trouble now.

It's always more difficult with a "second-hand" horse, particularly one who has some skeletons in the closet. I've had a few like that but with consistent work they have come right in the end, and I am sure that B will too - don't lose faith in her or yourself
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I think Cruiser has come up with some good thoughts, although my personal preference would still always be to use a round pen to help this situation. The little paddock sounds like a good compromise though.
 
Okay, let's see if I can do this reasonably concisely (not my strong suit
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). . .

I would see if you can get the smaller area to work in, at least initially. You won't be doing any fast work so footing isn't a huge issue and if it also means you have the area to yourself so much the better.

You can try with a halter or a bridle. If you use a halter make sure you can attach the longe line to the side ring, not just underneath. You could use a rope/pressure halter but again, one you can attach to the side of, not underneath. Some people use a nose chain but I don't like that myself.

I usually use a bridle for work like this, although I am mindful that it puts a lot of pressure on the horse's mouth and produces a lot of leverage. My standard outfit is a full cheek snaffle and no nose band but a loose cavesson noseband won't hurt. My goal is to never have the horse hit the end of the line with force. All that said, the point is to get control of the situation so some force, I hate to say, might be necessary to convince the mare that she can't get away from you. Be sure to soundly curse the person who taught her she could pull away whilst you are doing this.
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Start by making sure she understands to come to you with presure on the line. Attach the line to the left side (noseband ring of halter or ring of the bit - NOT over the poll, under the chin, on a coupler etc.) of whatever she is wearing on her head. Have her stand in front of her a few feet away and facing her with the line loose, slightly to the side the line is attached to. Then drop your eye and your shoulders (an "inviting" posture) and quietly tighten your pressure on the line. Keep the pressure steady until she takes a step towards you and loosens it HERSELF. Don't give, let her give to you. If she resists/pulls back stand in the same place - do not increase the pressure but if SHE increases it just hold your ground. BE PATIENT. Eventually she will give and walk forward but if she argues just ignore her and keep up a steady resistance. The purpose of this is to teach her to give to sideways and forward pressure.

When you're getting a consistent reaction, attach the rein on the right and repeat.

Then stand at the side and applying the same steady pressure, ask her to turn and step towards you. Preferably her quarters will stay in place and her front end will come around (be sure you leave enough space) but I'm not picky at first. Work both sides, making sure she takes the first step sideways with the "inside" front foot on the same side as the rein.

Gradually do this exercise from further away, staying with one side until you get a consistent result before switching sides.

After you have been successful with this consistently and she stands quietly add in moving her gently away with your body language until she takes a step away from you with her shoulder. If she's blase about it lightly swinging the line at her shoulder might help but don't over do it. As with the "come forward" pressure the "go forward (away)" aid should be consistent so that the horse learns to take the pressure off with her own desireable reaction.

Now move on to a walking slowly on a small circle of a size that does not cause her anxiety. Keep a consistent light feel on the line (this is important and takes much more movement of the hand and arm than most people think) with just enough pressure to feel the horse's mouth. Saying something soothing like "whoo-oa" or "eeeasy" increase the pressure just as you did when she was standing still until she slows down and takes a step towards you to lighten the pressure. Keep your body language firm enough that she doesn't walk towards you but stays out on the circle. Praise her. Repeat, obviously, lots of times and both ways.

Keep a consistent, light feel on the line whilst she's walking on the circle. This is important. And increase it only when asking her to stop and turn towards you, at which point SHE releases the pressure. Don't ever go from a loose rein to firm pressure as this gives her no warning and no chance to react to a light aid.

Then start sending her away the same as you did before, by sending her back straight again. If she shows signs of anxiety in her expression or posture, downgrade your asking but keep up the pressure until you get a reaction, even if it's just a shifting of her weight. Make sure you wait long enough between requests to let her settle completely.

And yes, this is boring, slow work. Well, I don't find it boring - I think it's like having a conversation - but I'm told many people do.

When you are getting a consistent reaction of her stopping and shifting slightly towards you on your voice and rein aid, start using a mild version as a half halt - start to ask and when she has slowed slightly ask her quietly to move on again.

When she's idiot proof at this in the walk, move her up to a verrrrrrry slow trot and repeat the exercise, increasing the pressure and using your voice when you want her to slow. It doesn't matter if she walks or halts - the aid is to give to pressure, not for a particular gait. If she is completely relaxed then you can up the pace BUT if she shows anxiety stay at walk and do the exercise in walk a few times before continuing in trot. If ANYTHING that you think might spook or upset her is happening around you go back to halt until whatever it is has passed. DO NOT try to hold her in an adverse situation at this point.

How fast you go depends totally on her. Obviously this will take time but if you insist on a consistent reaction so that she UNDERSTANDS you might be surprised how quickly she comes on.

If you can get a consistent result trotting at a reasonable speed then take her back out into the larger area. Start RIGHT back at the beginning in halt and run through ALL the steps in the exercise. If she does them all fluently and correctly it should take you minutes. If she sticks somewhere then work it through before moving on. Every time the situation changes (say another horse coming into the school) start right back at square one and move through the steps again.

Boring, eh? (That would be Canadian humour.
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) But if she understands each run through will be very quick. What you are trying to do is build a completely consistent response so that she knows you ALWAYS want the same thing - for her to give to pressure - no matter what else is going on.

Does that make sense at all? If not feel free to ignore me. I won't take up any more thread space but if you need clarification drop me a PM.
 
Can I just add one small thing to that comprehensive post above? Don't try to lunge in a Be Nice halter, or any pressure halter (one that closes on the head). Some trainers use these halters to teach horses to yield to pressure, but your horse already knows that. Most NH trainers don't use pressure halters at all, I can only think of the Monty Roberts/Kelly Marks people who do, but not sure about Richard Maxwell.
If I was dealing with this I wouldn't use the bridle. I'd go back to basics and make sure I could yield the horse well - front, back, sideways and the shoulders. Then start working in close, leading in a straight line, changing to a circle, pushing the shoulder or hind end away if the horse thought about leaving, then going into a straight line, then on to a circle. Once you have the language established and the horse gets more confidence, and starts to flex their body around you, then you can increase the time spent working in an arc, increase the distance between you, and build up to your lunging circles.
If your horse has been taught using Monty Roberts Join Up style techniques AND Parelli then I'd say this is a common result. It does seem to confuse them. Particularly if their owner isn't that confident about what they are doing, and don't really understand it.
 
Just to justify my position . . .
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Richard Maxwell does indeed use a pressure halter but it is one arranged so that the line can come from either side for longing. I believe the Be Nice and similar halters can only be attached under the chin, can they not?

The reason I suggest the bridle, even though I state the warnings I do and take them very seriously, is that it will probably be unavoidable that the horse "goes away" from you at speed at some point. NOT desireable, but unavoidable. She has been TAUGHT this response both in her initial training and by her success with you. In her mind she goes against the pressure, it increases, she increases her pull (by speeding up, turning away etc.) and the pressure releases when she manages to get free. This is standard operant conditioning : to release pressure run hard in the other direction. She's not trying to get away she's trying to do what she's been taught.

Obviously, ideally this shouldn't happen. (In which case having a bridle on won't matter one way or the other.) But she's a horse not a machine and I would bet dollars to donuts (that doesn't really work in the UK, does it?) that eventually her training will kick in and she'll at least attempt to leave. At this point it is ESSENTIAL she does not get away. EVERY time she does it reinforces the wrong message. You HAVE to be able to hold her.

And I have to say, unless you're a good bit stronger than me - or the horse - you won't have a chance in a regular halter. It's not nice and it's far from ideal but it's too late now - the horse cannot be allowed to continue to escape so you have to hold her any way you can. Best case scenerio it happens once, she hits the end of the line and, if you've done your prep work, she turns towards you and stops. At which point she will be very shaky since in her mind she is actually being disobedient by going against her training. But you'll still be attached to her, which is the only way this is going to work, and you can start the process of reassuring her that she has done the right thing. You can't do that if she's hightailing it in the opposite direction dragging your longe line and freaking herself out more.

As I said this is a very tough one. You bascially have to convince the horse you can hold her if it comes down to it. Which is , of course, technically impossible. So you have to use what you've got but use it VERY carefully. Just relying on the fact that she'll "forget" her previous training is, to my way of thinking, not very realistic.

But just my 2 cents. I'm sure others fix this sort of thing differently and I'd be interested to hear the options.
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Just to add that it would be great to have access to a round pen and not have the pulling away thing ever come up . . . except that the OP a) doesn't have one and b) needs to be able to longe in a larger area. I'm a fan of round pens but, like every tool, they have their risks and one I've seen is that the horse never actually learns to longe properly because it just follows the shape of the pen, giving the false illusion of understanding and compliance. To truly be "broke" the horse has to understand to give to the pressure of the line no matter how far away the handler is.

One more thing . . .(sick of me yet?;)) be very careful with your body language. Drive the horse only as much as she can stand and increase the pressure slowly and quietly. And fast moves whilst she's in the process of being re-educated might very well put you back to square one so experiment carefully.

Okay, back to my corner now . . .
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Oh Cruiser - THANK YOU SO much for taking the time to respond in such detail!! I totally get what you are saying! Whether I can do it, is another question, but I'll have a go - don't really think I can do much more harm......?

I have to admit, to taking her in the school last night in the Be Nice, with a lunge line. I worked on moving her feet, when and where and how I wanted, she was angelic! I then progressed to walking in large circles, straight lines, squares, arcs etc... and moving her ever so slightly away from me and controlling her only with voice aids and body language - took a minute or 2, but she got it! She did, however, spook hugely at a Barn Owl that flew over REALLY low and she charged off, but I held her and she reacted EXACTLY as you said

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At which point she will be very shaky since in her mind she is actually being disobedient by going against her training.

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And I think I may have started on this!

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But you'll still be attached to her, which is the only way this is going to work, and you can start the process of reassuring her that she has done the right thing.

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Point totally taken about lunging from underneath/both sides of the bridle at once and also about the halter thing, though to be fair, I wasn't intending on lunging her yesterday - more foot work and I didn't want to loose her.

I may even contact Max about this one if I don't make any break throughs at all, but we do have a good relationship, so I'm hoping that this stands us in good stead. I'll keep you updated on our progress, thank you again!!
 
You're welcome - hope it helps a bit. This is a tricky one to fix but hopefully you can undo the damage. I had to longe one of the horses I'd "cured" of a smilar problem last year in a huge field at a show and he was good as gold.

If you don't feel like resucitating the thread drop me a PM and let me know how it goes - I'd be interested to know how you get on.

Good luck.
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