Need a calmer for an overly excitable/strong horse.

ThatConnieGal

ThatConnieGal

Active Member
Joined
27 May 2019
Messages
40
Visit site
Hi all,

I am looking for suggestions for calmers as I am currently at the end of my tether with my 9yo Connemara gelding. I love him to absolute bits but I am just getting more and more frustrated as the days go on.

He is so tense and strong to ride. When hes out 24/7 in summer he is not AS bad but it does still occur, especially at shows etc.

He will literally trot on the spot and throw his head in the air trying to break in to canter and as soon as hes in canter he will bolt, this is the same whether he is lunged beforehand or not. I have tried transitions and just trotting with no canter work for weeks but he still gets so worked up.


He has his teeth done 6 monthly and they are perfect, gets his back done every 2-3 months and has been checked by vets. His saddle fits perfect and he is comfortable in every other aspect. He just wants to GO GO GO.

I use a regular snaffle with a lozenge as I was recommended stronger bits and they just made him worse and frustrated.

He is not spooky at all and he is a big dog on the ground, and he is the least stressy horse I've ever known, you can take him anywhere and he won't bat an eye. He has never bucked on reared with me on him.

He's on a low energy feed with unmolassed chaff, micronised linseed and turmeric.

At my wits end here and riding has really become un-enjoyable :(

In fact last summer we had to come home from 3 shows as he was so unbearable/bolty in the warm up.

We do dressage and showing.

PLEASE HELP!!
 
Is the chaff alfalfa? Some horses get fizzy on it? What’s the low energy feed called? Many aren’t as sugar free as they initially seem. I would say take the nut or mix out and up the linseed if you’re worried about weight loss. You could put him on low cal balancer so he gets all his vits without the energy. Maybe even try taking the linseed out asa small number get fizzy on that too. What grasses are In your paddock and hay? Alfalfa ? Clover? If he’s better out 24/7 I’d aim for that. He’ll trash your field but if he’s happy it’s worth it. My field is trashed by mine being out except from in the REALLY bad weather but my tb would be unridable if stabled all the time.
I would mess around with his feed. Take things out add things in until you find what he’s good on as I believe it’s all in the feed vs energy out ratio. Defo take swap nuts or whatever to plain balancer though!
 
My equine life said:
Is the chaff alfalfa? Some horses get fizzy on it? What’s the low energy feed called? Many aren’t as sugar free as they initially seem. I would say take the nut or mix out and up the linseed if you’re worried about weight loss. You could put him on low cal balancer so he gets all his vits without the energy. Maybe even try taking the linseed out asa small number get fizzy on that too. What grasses are In your paddock and hay? Alfalfa ? Clover? If he’s better out 24/7 I’d aim for that. He’ll trash your field but if he’s happy it’s worth it. My field is trashed by mine being out except from in the REALLY bad weather but my tb would be unridable if stabled all the time.
I would mess around with his feed. Take things out add things in until you find what he’s good on as I believe it’s all in the feed vs energy out ratio. Defo take swap nuts or whatever to plain balancer though!
Click to expand...


The chaff is a high fibre oat straw chaff with the addition of limestone flour. The feed is bluegrass horse and pony cubes with added calming pack containing 3 sources of magnesium, vitamin B1 and flaxseed.

Currently hes not getting out to paddock only arena turnout time as the fields are absolutely bogging and 2 years ago he pulled his suspensory in it as he like to gallop around and act the maggot.

He gets ad lib grass hay.

Funny thing is he used to be fed corn, high energy mix and molassed pulp before and had very little effect, seems the older he gets the sillier he becomes, maybe hes aging backwards ?

Have owned him since he was just turned 4, his best years were 5-8 and now he seems to be going into a baby phase again. hmmm...

Thank you for your help!
 
If there is no underlying problem or training issue he may be reacting to the magnesium which is supposed to be a calmer but with some too much can have the opposite effect, certainly one here got worse when on it and calmed down once it was taken out of his diet, I would stop everything and once it is all out of his system gradually introduce a basic diet one thing at a time.

I would suspect an underlying issue in a horse that is showing no signs of stress or over excitement when being handled generally, most sharp ones are equally sharp on the ground in my experience and while they may be worse under saddle or in new places their temperament is similar not a total contrast which is what yours seems to be especially as it is not how he was previously, a good work up by an equine vet may find something, not just a check over.
 
I would try taking out the nuts? They always have molasses in and if you check the sugar content I think you’d be surprised! I’d swap to a low cal balancer. Maybe take linseed out and see if it’s that (doubt it though) x
 
be positive said:
If there is no underlying problem or training issue he may be reacting to the magnesium which is supposed to be a calmer but with some too much can have the opposite effect, certainly one here got worse when on it and calmed down once it was taken out of his diet, I would stop everything and once it is all out of his system gradually introduce a basic diet one thing at a time.

I would suspect an underlying issue in a horse that is showing no signs of stress or over excitement when being handled generally, most sharp ones are equally sharp on the ground in my experience and while they may be worse under saddle or in new places their temperament is similar not a total contrast which is what yours seems to be especially as it is not how he was previously, a good work up by an equine vet may find something, not just a check over.
Click to expand...

He has only started getting the calming version of that feed fairly recently and it’s had no change on him at all so it can’t be the magnesium.

He’s always been strong/excitable, so it hasn’t just began recently. When he’s lunged he does buck, rear, and bolt around on the lunge too, but that’s just him getting his energy out as it’s the same when he’s loose in the arena or field. But he’s a very respectful horse when being led, and in every other aspect.

he’s been seen by 3 different equine vets and they’ve found nothing wrong, and they’re very good vets, not the type to just say “ah he’s just testing you, you need to show him you’re boss”. He’s in tip top shape.

I know winter is probably a big contributing factor with him being stabled as I know last summer I’d stable him the night before a show and I know for this summer not to as it sent him mad.

Wish me luck keeping a grey clean in a field the night before though ?
 
It's difficult at this time of year because the ground is so wet, but could you try taking him somewhere safe (eg big field) and work on schooling him to come back to you when he takes off? Lots of circles, figures of eight, lead changes, make him work when he's being silly and it'll hopefully steady him and make him realise he can't use it to get his own way. I've had to do this with my pony out on hacks before and although he'll always be excitable I know now what works to get him thinking and steady him (mostly ?).
Doing more fast work will also take away the novelty value and make it clear to him it IS work, not just playtime.
 
This sounds like a training issue rather than a calmer issue. Especially as he is calm on the ground and you have checked saddle/back etc.

I would re-think training interactions, for example my mare is not allowed to hooligan round on the lunge - it would be rude. She has to walk a full circle at least before going into trot (much more than one circle if it is warm) and then act in a mannerly fashion.

If he is strong in the bit and worse in a stronger bit, this suggests that he is unsure how to respond t the pressure of the bit. The reason he is worse in a stronger one is that it causes unpleasant pressure and des not know how to make that stop.

I would start on the ground, teaching him to relax and switch off. Have a look at Andrew McLean as he breaks it down into little steps, but generally they have to first learn to relax and yield to the bot on the floor when this is a repetitive pattern. Doing it on the floor will also allow you to learn the feel.

I know you say he is good on the floor, but f you were to bridle him, park him up and take up a contact, I bet he would not instantly come to attention, lower his head, relax his jaw and await for further instructions? If you increased the pressure on the bot, would he yield to that, stay relaxed (not pusing into the bit) and step backwards?

These 2 exercises are the key to having him relaxed and able to cope as the intensity gets more, the understanding that when pressure is applied, you don't push back (which manifests as pulling) but instead yield, relax and slow/lower.
 
I would teach him to go sideways ...
Leg yield , shoulder fore , shoulder in traverse etc it’s very hard for a horse to sod off if doing one of these exercises I use it whenever I smell trouble , a gate with a herd of
Cows or any situation when horse is silly...
 
ThatConnieGal said:
He has only started getting the calming version of that feed fairly recently and it’s had no change on him at all so it can’t be the magnesium.

He’s always been strong/excitable, so it hasn’t just began recently. When he’s lunged he does buck, rear, and bolt around on the lunge too, but that’s just him getting his energy out as it’s the same when he’s loose in the arena or field. But he’s a very respectful horse when being led, and in every other aspect.

he’s been seen by 3 different equine vets and they’ve found nothing wrong, and they’re very good vets, not the type to just say “ah he’s just testing you, you need to show him you’re boss”. He’s in tip top shape.

I know winter is probably a big contributing factor with him being stabled as I know last summer I’d stable him the night before a show and I know for this summer not to as it sent him mad.

Wish me luck keeping a grey clean in a field the night before though ?
Click to expand...

If the vets have found nothing then it sounds as if by allowing him to play on the lunge/ loose you may have unintentionally trained him to behave in an unruly way, it is not an acceptable way to behave on the lunge, I would not loose school one that behaves this way, what they do when turned out in the field is fine, as long as they get out every day they should have no reason to play up in a schooling situation and as Red 1 has suggested going back to basics teaching him to yield, relax and understand what you want would be a good idea, at the moment he sounds confused you let him run about when you are not in close contact, him being led, and this is transferring to ridden work.
 
I agree that is does not sound like a diet/exercise issue (apart from suffering from these winter restrictions) but more a behavioural one when in work. Are you trying to do much the same things with him when you lunge/ride all the time? Just a thought that sometimes it is good to get a different trainer in to see what is happening and to give you ideas for a different approach.
 
I'd imagine turnout is the root of your issues along with some training problems. Id do whateer I could to get him turnout thst isnt the school, and then I would follow the advice given above. Walk, walk, walk, and more walk until he realises that the arena isnt play time.
 
It sounds really as if the lack of turnout is making him worse than in summer but I would stop all feed bar hay for one month, then if you still feel that he needs extra feed, add in one ingredient at a time. By the way Flaxseed and linseed are the same thing, so he may be getting a lot more of that that you intended.
I would also insist on good manners on the lunge, lunging is work, so he shuld behave as he does when he is ridden, not as he does when free in the field.o
 
That's really interesting about the behaviour on the lunge (and a sweetheart in the stable etc). I had a Connie X who behaved exactly like this. The expert who was helping me thought it was amusing and 'normal' so I just accepted it. Certainly, he was better in the summer with turnout, but still p...d off with me when he felt like it. In retrospect, I also think he had some physical/pain issues after some years being jumped a lot. So many unsolved mysteries with horses; if only it was easier to get to the bottom of them.
 
be positive said:
If the vets have found nothing then it sounds as if by allowing him to play on the lunge/ loose you may have unintentionally trained him to behave in an unruly way, it is not an acceptable way to behave on the lunge, I would not loose school one that behaves this way, what they do when turned out in the field is fine, as long as they get out every day they should have no reason to play up in a schooling situation and as Red 1 has suggested going back to basics teaching him to yield, relax and understand what you want would be a good idea, at the moment he sounds confused you let him run about when you are not in close contact, him being led, and this is transferring to ridden work.
Click to expand...

If you were stabled 24/7 you’d want to get your energy out too, he’s not unruly on the lunge he just bucks etc, but he doesn’t drag me, he stays on the circle, I’m not pulled. And it’s only for a short time at the start. Afterwards he works just fine. I don’t loose school him, I let him out in the arena because I’m not going to keep him inside 24/7 in winter and field time is not available. Not sure what you mean by him being confused I let him run around in close contact and being led ?
 
SpeedyPony said:
It's difficult at this time of year because the ground is so wet, but could you try taking him somewhere safe (eg big field) and work on schooling him to come back to you when he takes off? Lots of circles, figures of eight, lead changes, make him work when he's being silly and it'll hopefully steady him and make him realise he can't use it to get his own way. I've had to do this with my pony out on hacks before and although he'll always be excitable I know now what works to get him thinking and steady him (mostly ?).
Doing more fast work will also take away the novelty value and make it clear to him it IS work, not just playtime.
Click to expand...

I’ve tried all of this in the arena! I’ve tried STRICTLY trot work for weeks but he still anticipates canter and tries to break in and then it goes absolutely downhill from there. I have found that when I bring him to the beach he is much better after a few gallops so I completely understand the idea of making it seem like work and not playtime because the novelty definitely wears off at the beach for him! I just can’t gallop anywhere at home right now as it is bogging in this awful weather
 
I'd say turnout is your issue. How long/often do you ride him With unruly behaviour I'd recommend riding 2x daily if you can ensuring there is plenty of 'relaxing ' work - e.g. my horse gets lit up by trot to canter transitions so if they're in a funny mood I do more serpentines, circles, lateral work etc. How long is arena turnout? Unless its for 4-6 hours I'm not surprised he is unruly - is there a walker you can use?
 
Red-1 said:
This sounds like a training issue rather than a calmer issue. Especially as he is calm on the ground and you have checked saddle/back etc.

I would re-think training interactions, for example my mare is not allowed to hooligan round on the lunge - it would be rude. She has to walk a full circle at least before going into trot (much more than one circle if it is warm) and then act in a mannerly fashion.

If he is strong in the bit and worse in a stronger bit, this suggests that he is unsure how to respond t the pressure of the bit. The reason he is worse in a stronger one is that it causes unpleasant pressure and des not know how to make that stop.

I would start on the ground, teaching him to relax and switch off. Have a look at Andrew McLean as he breaks it down into little steps, but generally they have to first learn to relax and yield to the bot on the floor when this is a repetitive pattern. Doing it on the floor will also allow you to learn the feel.

I know you say he is good on the floor, but f you were to bridle him, park him up and take up a contact, I bet he would not instantly come to attention, lower his head, relax his jaw and await for further instructions? If you increased the pressure on the bot, would he yield to that, stay relaxed (not pusing into the bit) and step backwards?

These 2 exercises are the key to having him relaxed and able to cope as the intensity gets more, the understanding that when pressure is applied, you don't push back (which manifests as pulling) but instead yield, relax and slow/lower.
Click to expand...


I don’t let him “hooligan around” on the lunge. I let him let off whatever steam he needs to. I’d rather him do it on the lunge than with me on. He only throws a few bucks etc for a short time and then he relaxes and works. This is to be expected as he’s stables only during winter. He is a horse after all I don’t expect him to come out of the stable and be fully concentrated and relaxed straight away.

He has a very sensitive mouth, he knows how to react the bits he just does not enjoy them, all horses have different bit preferences.

He takes up a contact straight away and he knows to rein back.

He has been champion in Connemara showing classes and used to do well in dressage (haven’t competed in dressage in a while) he is a good horse we’re just having this issue now which is frustrating.
everything he goes in (tack, etc) is the same. nothing has changed except him.
 
ThatConnieGal said:
I’ve tried all of this in the arena! I’ve tried STRICTLY trot work for weeks but he still anticipates canter and tries to break in and then it goes absolutely downhill from there. I have found that when I bring him to the beach he is much better after a few gallops so I completely understand the idea of making it seem like work and not playtime because the novelty definitely wears off at the beach for him! I just can’t gallop anywhere at home right now as it is bogging in this awful weather
Click to expand...
The weather is a nightmare at the moment!
Another thing I've tried with mine is a kineton noseband, if your horse responds well to pressure on the nose it might help? Particularly if he has a sensitive mouth, it takes some of the pressure off and transfers it to the nose (although I don't think they're dressage legal).
I also try and ride him into the bridle, although pushing him on when he's being a tank feels wrong ? but it helps to bring his head down and back under control.
 
SusieT said:
I'd say turnout is your issue. How long/often do you ride him With unruly behaviour I'd recommend riding 2x daily if you can ensuring there is plenty of 'relaxing ' work - e.g. my horse gets lit up by trot to canter transitions so if they're in a funny mood I do more serpentines, circles, lateral work etc. How long is arena turnout? Unless its for 4-6 hours I'm not surprised he is unruly - is there a walker you can use?
Click to expand...

I lunge once a day and ride once a day.
Arena turnout is for 5+ hours as they’re stabled at my house and don’t have to worry about anyone else needing to use it.
 
Thank you for all your replies guys, keep them coming. I bought the blue chip calling balancer last night so I’m going to start him on that with just a handful of chaff to see how he goes. Although he’s one to sometimes lose condition so I’ll add and subtract feed to find a good balance. Horses man ?
 
ThatConnieGal said:
thanks for your “advice”. But I have multiple trainers and they all are just as confused as me. Funny he understands everything else ?
Click to expand...

not sure what your attitude is for
it’s really simple if your horse where mine I would retrain from the start everything from the beginning .
if your trainers are confused you need different ones.
 
SpeedyPony said:
The weather is a nightmare at the moment!
Another thing I've tried with mine is a kineton noseband, if your horse responds well to pressure on the nose it might help? Particularly if he has a sensitive mouth, it takes some of the pressure off and transfers it to the nose (although I don't think they're dressage legal).
I also try and ride him into the bridle, although pushing him on when he's being a tank feels wrong ? but it helps to bring his head down and back under control.
Click to expand...


it is so awful!

I currently use a micklem (I’ve tried every bridle under the bloody sun and could build another tack room for all the trial and error tack pieces I’ve bought ?) with him and find this works the best, I’ve even tried the bit less settings and they seem to be okay, he doesn’t get worse on them anyway ?

I also push him through his silly moments!! It really does feel weird but it does eventually soften him and he’ll stop. But once he’s stopped he’ll be riled up and ready to go again ?
 
Goldenstar said:
not sure what your attitude is for
it’s really simple if your horse where mine I would retrain from the start everything from the beginning .
if your trainers are confused you need different ones.
Click to expand...

Can’t understand your wording. My trainers are very well educated and 2 compete internationally, I won’t be switching trainers as they’re doing everything they can and it is a tricky situation. Don’t reply to this if you don’t have something educational to say. Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top