next strongest bit up from dutch gag

Firehorse

Firehorse

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as above really. any recommendations. my pony tends to fizz over on the hill and his dutch gag doesnt contain this fizz. i cant make him walk our canter tracks anymore, altho he used to. he will mess about b4 we get the places and then go up, back and side till i let him go. and he goes with a pop! stand to flatout in 0.4 seconds!
 
Put a curb chain on the round bit the cheek pieces attach - makes a massive difference - but would recommend you use a kinder ring for the reins first as the effect can be dramatic! xx
 
No bit will stop him fizzing, in fact if it's too sharp it will make him more inclined to go up! Cut his feed, keep him going up and down the hill until he walks sensibly- or just enjoy the fun!
 
he's on mollichaff calmer!!! i do enjoy the fun and love a good gallop, but sometimes if there are dogs around, we naturally hve to walk. all summer i got him walking these places alternate times with no prob, then he wasnt having it anymore. wud be nice to feel like im the boss sometimes!
 
Oh well it's not the feed then! Just give him LOTS more work! If you want to try another bit then maybe a pelham would suit better or a waterford gag if he leans?
 
Which ring of the dutch gag are you using, do you have two reins on it, with one rein on the snaffle ring and the other on a lower setting, so that the gag action is only used when necessary? I would also suggest that you work on a LOT of transitions when you are out hacking so that he gets used to listening to you and doing as he is told.
smile.gif
 
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No bit will stop him fizzing, in fact if it's too sharp it will make him more inclined to go up!

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I agree with this!

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Echo, it may be an idea to invest in some schooling lessons rather than just shove a harder bit in his mouth!
 
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and then go up, back and side till i let him go.

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He does this because the bit he already has is preventing him from going forward at the pace he wants to. A stronger bit wont help and may make things much worse. More slow work and schooling should help.
 
Try keeping the reins on the middle ring, sometimes the leverage is just too much on the bottom ring, then use a leather curb as suggested above. Either an old flash strap or a strong spur strap will do. Its a much kinder option for your hacking and you should feel a huge difference in the amount of contact that you need, ie much lighter, and hopefully safer.
 
Agree with posters who have said needs more schooling and not a stronger bit. Try a hackamore or some other bitless bridle for a while to see if that will stop him pulling against you.

I applaud you for trying to find a solution, especially if you have dog walkers etc in the same area as you are in.
 
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and then go up, back and side till i let him go.

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He does this because the bit he already has is preventing him from going forward at the pace he wants to. A stronger bit wont help and may make things much worse. More slow work and schooling should help.

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agree with this.

If you over bit him it wont help, most likely just to make him jog / dance around more.

if you can hold him in his current bit situation then it doesnt need to change. stick with it, school him on this track and dont canter in the same places
 
This is why you shouldn't canter in the same places. I'd stop cantering on hacks completely for now, until he will walk or trot sensibly in the "canter places". If necessary walk him back and forth over and over again until he settles.

When you have had several weeks of not misbehaving and going at the pace you choose then start re-introducing canter but vary the places, don't do much and try doing transitions/circles to keep control when you allow him to canter. Also consider walking the length of your canter track, cantering back to where you started and then walking back again so he gets used to having to walk in his canter places.

Don't increase the bit as this will only encourage him to rear, which is dangerous.
 
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