Paddock Maintenance

Right, lets start with sheep:
the stocking ratio for sheep is 6 ewes + their followers per acre, to graze with or after horses you can halve it and still get the benefit. I tend to 'blitz' my paddocks though, putting about 15 ewes to an acre for very short periods of time - that's for established grassland.
The sheep, although very even grazers, will not eat off long grass - for that you either need to top it or put some cattle on it, the cattle will fertilise it as well;)
You don't need to remove sheep droppings, they are great slow release fertiliser and with a bit of luck, the ewes will trod their own poo into the ground with a bit of rain, at the same time they will trod all the bits of root etc in, which will improve root structure and the 'body' of grass.

The overseeding:
there is no rule that says it should be done in spring - wettish, warmish (over 7 degrees C) Autumn is as good if not better;)

Creating pasture on sandy soil, starting with arable land.

In September drill sparce grass seed of a large variety, I've gone for Italian Ryegrass, which is very robust and will grow in any conditions. It will not produce dense crop, but is really good to start your venture off. It's high in protein, thus a bit rich for horses (IMO though better high protein and stalky than sugary), but will be sparce.
Leave over winter, if needs be fertilise in spring and take an early cut for hay/haylage/silage as you please.
At this point you can either introduce some sheep to graze it over summer or leave to grow.
At end of Summer (August) or early Autumn overseed with smaller, more 'horsey' grass mix like Timothy, roll, fertilise and leave for a bit.
Hey presto - horse friendly paddock with good grass that has full body and robust root structure:)

Now, I have several variations of this procedure, some paddocks I just use without overseeding as a 'sacrifice' with the intention of feeding hay in them over winter.
Others will be left alone, with loads of muck spread over them in late Autumn, then cut for haylage early next year and then used for grazing.

Other than that, just play it by eye and act accordingly.
In all cases I avoid seed mixtures containing clover as that will appear of it's own volition anyway:D
 
The grass sickness organisation does not recommend using poo collectors on your paddock, in particular the sweeping brush type. The action of the sweeping could be a possible link in grass sickness cases. Not sure if its because they change the molecular structure of the grass or soil or something, but if I were you I wouldn't take the risk.
 
Well from that angle- we sold our farmhouse to posh wannabe country folk who insisted on having two acres of land, which they promptly let go to seed and weed. They pay a fortune to have it cut every few months so "it stays nice and green". They also paid someone to put in a large pond, and "rustic" (as in not straight planks, but wavy ones with bark on) post and rail fencing. They're your target market for paddock management really, not normal horsey people who are usually skint!!

LOL, loads of folks like that round here!

One such family bought a house with several acres, turfed out the people who were renting the grazing 'cause the wife was scared of horses, then were begging my OH to do something with it! :confused: They no longer live there. :D

My OH is an ag contractor and he simply cannot afford to give people with paddocks the same rates as farmers. For example, he would normally charge a farmer about £15 per hour for chain harrowing and do several hours. A two acre paddock would only take a couple of hours so to take a tractor (in some cases having to load it on to a trailer if too far to drive it there) to someone's property to earn £30?? Not gonna happen I'm afraid!
 
My OH is an ag contractor and he simply cannot afford to give people with paddocks the same rates as farmers. For example, he would normally charge a farmer about £15 per hour for chain harrowing and do several hours. A two acre paddock would only take a couple of hours so to take a tractor (in some cases having to load it on to a trailer if too far to drive it there) to someone's property to earn £30?? Not gonna happen I'm afraid!

Indeed. Being more focused on management of smaller acreages, we'd buy the tractor and machinery to be able to cope with the jobs we'll cover - so a compact tractor would be ideal. Being an ag contractor means bigger acreages, bigger tractors, bigger machinery and a bit more hassle moving it all about - and of course it's all more expensive. Like you say, travelling for half and hour in a tractor for a few hours work just isn't going to cover those costs.

I'm hoping that this is where a 'paddock maintenance' company, focused on smaller areas and being more compact and transportable would come in. All yours opinions are very helpful too btw so, thanks to everyone so far! Keep them coming! :)
 
Right, lets start with sheep:
the stocking ratio for sheep is 6 ewes + their followers per acre, to graze with or after horses you can halve it and still get the benefit. I tend to 'blitz' my paddocks though, putting about 15 ewes to an acre for very short periods of time - that's for established grassland.
The sheep, although very even grazers, will not eat off long grass - for that you either need to top it or put some cattle on it, the cattle will fertilise it as well;)
You don't need to remove sheep droppings, they are great slow release fertiliser and with a bit of luck, the ewes will trod their own poo into the ground with a bit of rain, at the same time they will trod all the bits of root etc in, which will improve root structure and the 'body' of grass.

Martlin thanks for this the grass is long could almost have been hayed. So sheep no good on it then until Cattle have been on it we will be having them on next week I think if cattle owner not gone on hols. Can I ask you we have a wooden fence around 2 sides do they push fences? Should I put the electric on the fence part?
 
Martlin thanks for this the grass is long could almost have been hayed. So sheep no good on it then until Cattle have been on it we will be having them on next week I think if cattle owner not gone on hols. Can I ask you we have a wooden fence around 2 sides do they push fences? Should I put the electric on the fence part?

If there is enough grass they should not push on fences, however, if they feel like getting out it can get exciting:D If you put a run of electric wire at a hight that will zap them in the nose it should keep them off the fence altogether;)
What sort of cattle are you having? Breed I mean?
 
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