Paddock overseeding, weed spraying and muck spreading questions

[HelsB]

I need to do the following field maintenance jobs and was wondering if any experts out there could suggest which order, and when I should do them all (and the reasons why I should do them in that order?)

- Broadcast spraying - mainly for Ragwort and Buttercups (thinking Headland Polo for this?)
- Overseeding with a broadcast spreader with a ryegrass free seed mix
- Spreading of well rotten down muck and harrowing

Anyone?

 

[HelsB]

Quite a few have viewed but no replies :-(

 

[xemonsus]

Sorry cant help but will be interested in any replies you do get!

 

[janeprince]

I will say first that I have never done this before but this is how I was reccommended.

Harrow field , broadcast seed, lightly over harrow or roll.
Wait approx 2 weeks spread fertiliser.

Don't know about the weed killer.

This may be totally wrong, I will let you know in 3 weeks when I fertilise my newly oversown grass seed.

 

[Maisy]

I always thought you shouldnt feed new grass???

(Thats in a garden, so could be different on grazing land...)

 

[alison247]

We rolled and harrowed last weekend.
Grass seed and weedkiller midweek and today fertilized.
So all done over 6 days!!!
Will weed kill again in June and September.
Grass seed patches again in september also.
Have done this for the last ten years and always overgrassed!
3 acres, 3 ponies.
Hope that helps.

 

[horserugsnot4u]

Probably need a farming expert to put us right but I think harrowing & fertiliser first as it needs time to get into the soil and moisture is best ie some rain. Last year I left it too late for harrowing and our clay soil baked and we were left with a very lumpy surface in places. I'm not certain about the weedkiller but I think it is not a good idea to do it on newly seeded grass as I think new shoots can't cope with the herbicide (may be certain types are okay so best to read up on the chemical you intend to use). The other thing about getting rid of buttercups is that it is best to catch them early as they are more resistant when coming into flower (agric contractor told me this). Anyway I guess that leaves the re-seeding last providing ground conditions are right ie warm & damp (sometimes late summer/early autumn is a good time but probably best if you don't use it over the winter). Hope I haven't given completely rubbish info.

 

[sarahughes]

Read this book, its fab will give you all your answers: 'Managing grass for horses' by Elizabeth O'Bierne-Ranelagh. Really helped me when I did the module on grassland management for my equine science degree, hope it helps.

 

[JoBird]

Spread the muck and harrow.
Broadcast the seed and then either re-harrow or roll in (if it is just patches I have driven the 4x4 car over it rather than rolling).
Only use weed killer sprays on established areas. Probably better to wait a couple of months or you will only have to do it again anyway!
As you are overseeding (so there is some established grass) you can spread the fertiliser at any time but DO IT WHEN RAIN IS FORECAST. You dont want the granules to sit on the surface otherwise they will burn the grass, you want them washed in a.s.a.p. You will often find me out in the fields spreading fertiliser when it is actually raining!!

Just wondered why you are avoiding ryegrass?

Last year I used a mix that included ryegrass on purpose as I wanted something that grew quickly and this particular mix was drought resistant too (but I have hungry TBs), so your needs may be different! If your land has an old ley, it should have plenty of other species in it already. Hope this helps. I am a "saddo" who loves field maintenance!!

 

[HelsB]

Thanks guys.

My weedkiller says to use spring and autumn so really wanted to get that done. I am not intending on fertilising other than spreading the rotted much on the fields, but want to get some thick grass cover to try to deter the ragwort, hence the overseeding.

Reason behind the ryegrass free mix is that it is for native fatty...

Basically my wishes for the field are:

Thick, but 'low calorie' (!!) grass to save some of the above for 'standing hay to strip graze in winter
Get rid of the damn ragwort (and buttercups)

Forgot to say I have already treated fields with Actiff equine calcified plus to try to raise PH of soil