Point and balance straps

[Orchardbeck]

Can anyone explain to me the effects of both of these, and also how different girth strap combinations (eg using first and third, or second and third) affects the saddle fit? Also why you would use a humane girth on different holes (so the first strap would be on a higher hole for eg than the second strap).

I asked my saddler which he would recommend I used when he fitted my saddle, he said to start with first and third, but it was a case of experimenting after that - but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. Ideally i'd like to prevent my saddle slipping forward on to my Arab x mare's big shoulders - I think she also has a forward girth groove. What is the best combi for that (I have a Thorowgood T4 Cob with an Aerborn humane padded girth)? All advice welcome.

 

[catwithclaws]

im not sure about affecting the saddle fit by using first and second, first and third etc, but i think the idea of the point and balance strap is that it helps to anchor the saddle (tends to be good for the cobby types and ones with flat withers) tho im prepared 2 be corrected on that.

only thing i would say is that unless u have a girth which is split a fair way down, u may struggle to put it on the point and balance as the second buckle wont stretch far enough. stubben do a split girth in leather and in string i think

 

[MissMincePie&Brandy]

For flat backed, round horses and ponies, without much of a wither, the problem of the saddle rolling may occur, where it often tends to start to slide from the back first. The point and balance straps will anchor the saddle and help to stabilise it. This saddle has them, there's a photo showing the point and balance straps. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200712823659?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Obviously you need to ensure your saddle actually fits the horse, and with round horses who's saddles tend to slightly roll I've also had success using neoprene girths, such as the professionals choice one, but the best girth is the Le Tixerant girth, which really holds the saddle in place and is comfy for the horse too! It's very expensive, but worth it I think.

I always use the 1st and 3rd straps.

 

[sbloom]

http://ezinearticles.com/?Point-Straps,-Rear-Balance-and-What-They-Do-in-Saddle-Fitting&id=6686307

Hopefully the above will help - first and third will indeed help stop a saddle moving forwards but there are other causes of that, especially the saddle being low at the back, so the tree has to be right, and it has to be correctly balanced.

Where saddles want to move sideways I actually am seldom able to use first and fourth as so many of them also have an issue with the saddle moving forwards.

 

[Orchardbeck]

SBloom - thank you so much for the link to that article - that was exactly the info I was looking for. I know if I could afford it I would be buying a NSC saddle from you!

She was fitted with a gullet that suited her width, but at the time she had muscle wastage behind the withers which made her usually flat withers more prominent (she had been on box rest for lami). The saddler recommended a Prolite wither pad which we gradually reduced in thickness as she put on condition, but I was never really happy using it as I thought the saddle bridged slightly - it doesn't without the pad but I am really wary of it slipping forwards.

I tried her on the 2nd and 3rd straps alone yesterday before I posted this thread, 'experimenting', and she wasn't happy, I think the saddle must have shuffled forwards too far, so the point strap must be necessary for her - that ties in with what was said in the article.

Cat - thanks for that, my girth is a humane one which allows a lot of movement between the two straps. I bought it specifically for that reason so it would stretch between the straps.

Mistletoe - thats really interesting about the Le Tixerant girths, I haven't come across them before. If we get really stuck it might be worth a try.

 

[sidesaddlegirl]

My TB has the problem of saddles slipping forward as she is built ever so slightly croup high, has wide sprung ribs and a very forward girth groove. She has high withers but has a good flat topline so saddles that are meant for "high withers" are too curved for her good topline.

I find that I have to go for flatter tree'd saddles like for cobs or close contact saddles (but make sure there there is good wither clearance) and have to get point straps put on if there aren't any. The exception is my new Barnsby Aurora H/J as they have the girth straps put closer to the tree points than most other saddles and has a flattish tree. I may get them put on anyways as it does move forwards a tiny bit not not as bad as most other saddles! On this saddle, I use 1st and 3rd with a humane girth but i also have a split atherstone as well that works good. I find the saddle is more stable with the humane though.

On my old close contact saddle, I used point and last to spread the girthing of the saddle as somtimes point straps have a tendency to tip a saddle forward if you just use point and 1st. You just have to play around with it.

My side saddle is the best fitting of all my saddles as side saddle trees are FLAT and have balance and point straps (mine has one on the off-side as well) so you can really have a play.

 

[Orchardbeck]

Thanks for that Sidesaddlegirl, thats also helpful. I did try using the point and balance straps only but I wasn't sure if that would clamp the saddle her back so to speak.

Apologies to MissMincepieandbrandy for the incorrect reference before - all these Christmas inspired names confused me!

 

[sbloom]

On my old close contact saddle, I used point and last to spread the girthing of the saddle as somtimes point straps have a tendency to tip a saddle forward if you just use point and 1st. You just have to play around with it.

Point and second as we would call it, point being first, would not be recommended in many cases at all - if the back of the saddle lifts then the tree is probably wrong, but it will place more pressure at the front. Occasionally we might use this combo on one side can be as moving the pressure points for an asymmetric horse is the easiest way of stabilising a saddle.

I do agree that many many horses need flatter trees and panels than most people realise as you were implying.