pony traumatised by dangerous dog-what can i do?

[zarla]

My driving pony was out on a beautiful quiet public road 2weeks ago and was attacked by a large deerhound. My pony has previously been part of a carriage dog display so he is well used to driving and dogs.
The deerhound ran at his head, then after my son and i were thrown from the carriage, the dog chased him round the field and ultimately into a ditch.
Since this traumatic incident my pony has begun to rush at dogs and bite them. I need to try to rehabilitate him, or his useful life as a pleasure drive is over.
We have only had him 5 months, he is a star and we love him, we cannot afford to change him just like that either. what can anyone suggest to help us sort him out please???

 

[M_G]

I would think that only time and taking it slowly will work... It must have been terrifying for him, I do hope you managed to find the owner of the deer hound

 

[zarla]

The owner was with it at the time!!!
He is being pursued for liability by my insurance company but is not a man to give in quietly. The dog warden and police have been to see him too. That public road is a no go area for us now.

I dont know the first thing about how to help Merlin with this. Any suggestions or names of professionals who can help would be much appreciated.

 

[M_G]

FFS I am shocked that the owner was with the dog. I really hope you can press charges successfully.

I will ask and see if I can get any recommendations for you

 

[zarla]

thank you.

 

[ironhorse]

I think you might be able to get the horse used to dogs again - very slowly.
Not quite the same, but my horse got badly scared in the show ring when another horse barged into her and flattened her against the wall of an indoor school. She was terrified of anything coming near her for a while so she would whip round or try to bolt. We gradually got her used to horses going past in a big outdoor arena and then the trainer rode another quiet horse around her, gradually crowding, overtaking and eventually brushing past her. She's much better now - we occasionally have to have a 'refresher' course if she gets scared.
With the dogs, have you or a good friend got a very quiet dog (a big soppy labrador would be ideal!) that you could hold on a lead - not too close - while someone makes a fuss of your horse, initially in hand? Don't tell him off if he goes for the dog, just restrain him and distract him with treats etc until he accepts the dog.
Then move to working him with that dog present (and later other dogs, eventually something that is a similar shape to the deerhound) in an enclosed arena before eventually going back out on the road with a dog. I would suggest you always keep the dog on a lead when you're working for safety, but as he gets better, you could allow quiet dogs to wander round the yard.
It will take time, but they do get over things. We still have to be careful in a big show class or if someone is riding a fresh youngster in the same arena!
I'm really sorry you've had to go through such a traumatic experience.

 

[zarla]

It's hard to keep dogs away totally on a livery yard, but we are trying to be on top of it. We will ask around for friends/dogs to help us. I'll try mine first, she's so old shhe'll just stand. we can walk around her and investigate.

the way to merlins heart is thru his apple treats so we'll give it a good go. thankyou, i'm off to give it a try this morning.
Zarla

 

[Spudlet]

I would start even further back - can you get people to walk their dogs (on the lead!) around the outside of his field, so he gets used to seeing them, can run away if he feels the need, but can't actually eat them?

He might feel more threatened if he is being held as he won't be able to flee, so will go for fight over flight and attack, but inititally getting him to be calm when he is in an environment where he feels safe and where he can run (the first reaction of most horses when they feel threatened) could help when the time comes to reintroduce dogs at a closer range.

Poor pony - and poor dog as well for having such a rubbish owner! Stupid man!

 

[AengusOg]

Hi there

I work with many horses and ponies which have been badly frightened in lots of different ways. Some won't stand to be clipped, allow the approach of vehicles/cycles/vets, and some have been traumatised by fearful events.

I take a similar approach with them all. I work them in a safe area, where I can use a training halter and a long rope, and I teach them, using advance and retreat techniques, to overcome their fears.

When exposing an equine to stimuli which it finds fearful, it is essential to allow them enough space to be able to put a comfortable distance between themselves and the object of their fear. By allowing them to be exposed to the stimulus, yet be able to feel safe in its presence, ie , by keeping their distance, it is possible to encourage them to accept its presence.

Once the horse realises that it has a choice of running (on a big circle), and that it has not come to any harm, it is possible to persuade him to accept less distance between himself and the fearful object.

It's essential to let the horse come to this conclusion, regarding his safety, on his terms, without coercion or restraint. It's very important for the handler to let the horse run, without vocal interference but, when the horse does stop running, the handler must immediately remove the stimulus, and use the voice to praise him.

It would be counter-productive for the handler to give any vocal encouragement whilst the horse is reacting to the stimulus, as that would reward him for reacting adversely, and may reinforce his fear.

Restraining the horse, and approaching him with the fearful stimulus, would also have a counter-productive outcome, as he would be bound to want to flee and, being held against his will, would be forced to go on the defence, which is what is happening when your pony wants to attack dogs after his fright.

Once the horse accepts the stimulus, and it is taken away and the horse praised for his acceptance, the whole scenario must be repeated.

This will allow the horse to become increasingly exposed to the stimulus, and to realise each time that there is no danger to him. Therefor, he will be able to gradually accept the increased exposure and, by the use of careful advance and retreat work, to allow a decrease in the distance between himself and the object of his fear.

My advice to you would be to have someone help you by controlling a quiet dog on a short leash in the middle of a sand school, and for you to go through the above process with the horse on a long rope. Because your pony is already predisposed to attacking dogs, it may be necessary for you to actually send him away and out on the circle in order to achieve the initial safety zone for both dog and pony.

When the pony stops reacting to the dog, by coming to a halt on the circle, you must immediately have the helper remove the dog to a greater distance, whilst you praise the pony, then the helper may return the dog to the centre of the circle and you can start again.

Each time the pony accepts the presence of the dog, the dog must be removed.

As the pony becomes more accepting, and this will be noticeable by his lessening desire to run so many times around on the circle, and by his willingness to stand while the dog is removed and returned, you may begin to gradually decrease the length of the rope between you.

The pony may display a heightened response each time you change the length of the rope but, by using your observation of his responses, you should be able to dissuade him from becoming too fearful, and allow him to find his comfort zone fairly quickly.

Once he is accepting the dog to about half of the initial distance, you can then begin to ask him to accept the presence of the dog nearer to him as you take the dog gradually nearer to him. You must be ready to have the dog handler stop, and retreat if necessary, if the pony shows sign of wishing to run off at this stage.

The pony will become more tolerant of the presence of the dog by this method.

The next stage is to ask the pony to come toward the dog, and to choose to decrease the distance himself as his confidence grows. At this stage it is important to identify the point at which the pony's fear may become too great, and for you to take him away from the dog, rather than take the dog from him. This will help his confidence to increase as time goes on, whilst keeping you in control of the situation, and you can work toward a happy conclusion where the pony can tolerate the dog to within a few feet.

It takes time, patience, and acute observation and timing for this to become possible, but I use this method with great success.

Good luck if you decide to try it.

 

[fatpiggy]

I would be grateful if my mare had gstarted biting or kicking dogs after one attacked her. Instead she used to try to whip around and bolt

She was well used to dogs too - I even had a doberman swinging off her tail once, and she didn't take any notice at all. She is fine with dogs she knows, but a strange one still makes her shake, 13 years on. She is very brave though and stands her ground now while I ask the owner to take hold of the dog if they haven't already.

I would agree with other posters that you need to go right back to the beginning and get a totally placid and "bored by horses" dog on a lead, walking around and build it up from there.

Push, push and push the legal case. A good driving pony is worth alot, and potentially you now have one that won't be trusted with a rider either, so is pretty worthless. I'm not a "sue the bas***d" sort of person at all, but in this case I most definitely would. Untrained dogs are a menace and the owners need to be hit where it hurts the most in order for them to be more responsible. We are expected to control half a ton with a couple of strips of leather and our voices, but they can't do anything with a few pounds of dog (yes, I know a deerhound weighs loads!). Pathetic!

 

[zarla]

thank you all for your support and suggestions. I will do as you suggest, and take things very slowly. He will accept dogs within 10feet of him, so we aren't starting too low down. I just need to rebuild his confidence slowly. I have a very old, placid and lazy terrier who will just sit there and let it all happen around her, she'll be my first candidate!
I tried him today without the dogs, and he was messing with me a bit, just the kinda guy he is, we'll get him to remember I'm in charge first, then bring on the dogs!!!
I don't think I can condone the shotgun approach lol! But, I am happy to take a SUPER SOAKER water gun with me when I drive out!!!