Problem that needs sorting. Answers/suggestions please!

Fools Motto

Fools Motto

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I'm currently walking a large (tall and strong) yearling colt. He is being prepared for the TB sales in October and has to be of good reasonable fitness. We walk (in hand) 4-6miles most days and in a few weeks will be lunging/longlining and introducing the roller. Not everyone's cup of tea for a youngster but this is how it is done.

Anyway, come across a problem. It seems minor (ish) at the moment but TBH I'm really worried it could escalate into something much more. He doesn't show this problem when following another horse to this decree, but I wouldn't be surprised if he did!

When we walk past a certain gate on our round route (we pass this upto 6 times) he naps. He literally walks through me to get to the gate, then leans on the gate and DOES NOT budge, unless I pull him towards me, as push away he just stands like an owff. So, I pull him towards me, we turn a circle to get to face the right way, walk a few steps, and he tries to barge through me and back to the gate. Some of the time i manage not to be barged through, but he then plants. A flick of the lead rope on his backside gets him forwards again, but as being a tall lad, his head is way above me, and he uses it to get up above and then behind me and the situation continues. Once 50 yards past the gate he walks well and is a good boy, he lowers his head and is a joy to do.

I got appsolutely knackered earlier (the worst he has been), and found I had little strength or fitness to 'keep going'. He is just laughing at me!!
He HAS to walk in front at some point, and we HAVE to go this route as it is the safest if ever they do get away from us. (they are contained by the perimeter boundary). I'm 5'4, just over 10 stones and considered myself experienced and strong enough to deal with it. But i clearly don't have the right knack at the moment!
He will get walked by a man at a later date, but right now that isn't possible - although no doubt what he needs.

I have been really lucky that so far he hasn't got cross with my yanking, pulling, swearing and lead line flicking and struck out with his fronts - he could easily and then I'll be in poo street! I'm also lucky that so far I have avoided total crush from between him and the gate! (don't ask me how - it has been close!)

It has been suggested that I take a whip with me and give him a smack across his nose at the right moment... may work but equally may make him stronger or very cross?!
I have thought about getting two people to lead him, but we don't have two people free enough..

SO, any other suggestions? (He is walked in a bit, lunge line) any other forms of bit / tack or anythign that I'm not thinking about?

Thankyou...
 
Firstly :eek: How to ruin a young horse.

Secondly, if you must do it, bridle and dressage whip (for use on his side and bum, i.e a flick - and of course, not on his nose).
 
amymay said:
Firstly :eek: How to ruin a young horse.

Secondly, if you must do it, bridle and dressage whip (for use on his side and bum, i.e a flick - and of course, not on his nose).
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Like i said, it isn't everyones cup of tea.. what we do or the suggestions... but it is the way that the world of TB's works..

He is already bitted and led in it (bit clipped onto headcollar)... I had thought of a small jumping crop if I must take one, as I feel it is easier to carry, and can be (not particually nice thought) easier to aim for his nose?
What is the advantage of a dressage whip as opposed to a crop?

Sorry, you meant his bum.. getting him going forwards isn't really the issue, it is stopping him crossing over through me and aiming for the gate... Although he has only done it in walk, i'm sure he could be quicker and start doing it in jog mode!!
 
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Have you tried getting him to really listen to you before you get to this gate? i.e. on your way around the route get him to stop and stand still multi times in different places, then walk on, then walk on with a bigger stride then a smaller stride, move away from you when you ask etc....lots of small things to keep his mind active and busy on you and not on what is to come i.e. the gate.
 
I would take a schooling whip and hold it in front of his nose to keep his attention on it. I would also use to keep him moving forwards, I think it is very difficult not to inadvertently pull back when flicking them forwards with a lead-rope attached to the head.
I would also make sure that I was the side of him furthest away from the gate and keep his head turned away from the gate. As he is bitted, I would prefer to lead in a bridle and use the reins to steer.
 
I am wondering some sort of "join up" type ground work might get him paying attention to you? I just has a horse-whisperer out to work with my horse - 6YO but very inattentive - and the ground work has certainly changed his behaviour whilst led. Basically get him walking right next to you, you make sharp turns and he follows, you stop, he stops. I had the whisperer do it and then I did it and now my horse does it easily. If he does look away ( snatch to graze for instance) a quick grab on lead rope and he is back following me. It seems to link into some sort of innate stimulus-response behaviour in the horse.
Worth a try....
 
Are you walking between the horse and the traffic, or are you walking between the horse and the hedge/verge?
 
Long whip, held in the left hand, facing upwards, not downwards as if you are riding.

I use them that way when teaching horses to run in hand for mare gradings and the like.

I will hold my left hand up high, and move it towards the nose to indicate they move around the triangle (in our case), if they don't move from the hand, I poke/tap their nose lightly. For one that is a bit bolshy I use the whip held upwards - seems to be a stronger signal.

Not cruel, not nasty, my horses aren't headshy. Running an exciteable 2 yr old up is no fun when they try and drag you all over the place.
 
A tip I got many years ago. Get a piece of alkathine pipe about 2ft long. Thread the lead rope/lunge line through it and push the pipe right up to the clip. Tie a big knot in the rope so the pipe is held up to the clip. Lead him holding the pipe and when he misbehaves you can use the pipe to keep him off you and hopefully stop him walking through/over you.
 
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Off the wall suggestion - no experience with this, but would a blinkered hood or even a full blindfold be useful as you approach and walk past the gate - it might save your arms? I found a blindfold was a solution to arms remaining in sockets during vets visits.

Maybe if you could get him to forget about it by using some form of distraction (tidbit/oats?) this might also work after a few days by breaking the habit
 
Ground work. Don't wait until you are facing this problem as a problem. Get the horse into a school or other safe area, and not in a bit (don't risk his mouth) but either in a head-collar or in a training head collar (Dually is the one I prefer but others work too). Start by making the horse walk towards you, then teach him to back. Lay down poles, make him back through the poles, lay them in an L shape, make him back in an L shape. Work on controlling where his feet go. Teach him to move sideways in each direction. Teach him to turn his hind quarters, while moving on the spot in front. Use simple words or simple easily distinguished sounds as commands. Use your body language as well. Reward hm with praise, and stroking or scratching. You don't need a whip - keep fear and pain out of it. You are NOT punishing him, you are setting it up for him to succeed.

Start with very short lessons. Don't over-load him with new requests, but learn/teach each lesson before moving to the next.
 
Vey said:
Ground work. Don't wait until you are facing this problem as a problem. Get the horse into a school or other safe area, and not in a bit (don't risk his mouth) but either in a head-collar or in a training head collar (Dually is the one I prefer but others work too). Start by making the horse walk towards you, then teach him to back. Lay down poles, make him back through the poles, lay them in an L shape, make him back in an L shape. Work on controlling where his feet go. Teach him to move sideways in each direction. Teach him to turn his hind quarters, while moving on the spot in front. Use simple words or simple easily distinguished sounds as commands. Use your body language as well. Reward hm with praise, and stroking or scratching. You don't need a whip - keep fear and pain out of it. You are NOT punishing him, you are setting it up for him to succeed.

Start with very short lessons. Don't over-load him with new requests, but learn/teach each lesson before moving to the next.
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I agree.
 
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