Rasp suggesions

Roxylola

Roxylola

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Bon is having a break from his shoes.
He's majority stabled at the moment so most wear is from hacking - booted in front unless short on tarmac. He also gets a bit of turnout in an all weather paddock where he pings about like a lamb.

Because he's got nail holes he's chipping his feet a bit when turned out and I'd like to be able to smooth flappy bits etc to hopefully reduce losing chunks. Urban horse do a little palm size rasp which looks easy to manage. Comes in a choice of coarse or fine. I'm not sure which to go for although I think coarse

Thoughts, alternatives?
 
Tiddlypom said:
Radius rasp?

Brilliant things. I’ve got the fine and the coarse, but only use the coarse. I trim my own horses with proper rasps etc, and by finishing off neatly with the Radius rasp it makes it look like I know what I’m doing!
Click to expand...
me too! ;-) the link shared below / above looks much cheaper than the radius rasp. My coarse radius rasp is getting blunt, and whilst can get replacement blades, I cannot see any easy way of changing the blade. £36 for a new ones sounds much better than a new radius rasp!
 
I found the shaped / angled ones a little restrictive when trying to fiddle with bits that were coming off - they only really work in one dimention.

I use a Save Edge - it's reasonably heavy - but very long wearing (i'm on my second in about 8 years with 4 horses and I use it regularly between trimmer visits)
Also incredibly sharp so quick too - one of mine is a bit tetchy behind because of front foot lameness issues so I like to be quick.
 
Polos Mum said:
I found the shaped / angled ones a little restrictive when trying to fiddle with bits that were coming off - they only really work in one dimention.

I use a Save Edge - it's reasonably heavy - but very long wearing (i'm on my second in about 8 years with 4 horses and I use it regularly between trimmer visits)
Also incredibly sharp so quick too - one of mine is a bit tetchy behind because of front foot lameness issues so I like to be quick.
Click to expand...

With similar logic I also have one of these in medium coarseness. Makes it so much easier! I was sweating with simple older rasps! This glides through hoof! https://www.equinepodiatrysupplies.co.uk/product/littlefoot-rasp-by-cody-james-tools/

I cut anything flappy with knife, check bars arent too proud / excessively weight bearing, trim hoof with the cody james rasp. Put the roll on the foot with the coarse radius rasp.
 
Tiddlypom said:
Radius rasp?

Brilliant things. I’ve got the fine and the coarse, but only use the coarse. I trim my own horses with proper rasps etc, and by finishing off neatly with the Radius rasp it makes it look like I know what I’m doing!
Click to expand...

Same here, I use a proper rasp for trimming but the coarse Radius rasp is great for finishing off and a quick repair job for any small chips.

I'm Dun on here gave me a Shinto rasp a while back, not something designed for horses but I use it all the time, it's brilliant (lots of different ones available, and cheaper than horse related hoof care equipment).
 
Rowreach said:
Same here, I use a proper rasp for trimming but the coarse Radius rasp is great for finishing off and a quick repair job for any small chips.

I'm Dun on here gave me a Shinto rasp a while back, not something designed for horses but I use it all the time, it's brilliant (lots of different ones available, and cheaper than horse related hoof care equipment).
Click to expand...
I think that will work similar to the cody james rasp - https://www.hoofmanshipshop.com/product-page/japanese-shinto-rasp-9

I bought one of these recently, though havent actually used it as the cody james is working well. https://www.hoofmanshipshop.com/product-page/stanley-surform-shaver-tool-blade-with-shaver-tool
 
Fieldlife said:
I think that will work similar to the cody james rasp - https://www.hoofmanshipshop.com/product-page/japanese-shinto-rasp-9

I bought one of these recently, though havent actually used it as the cody james is working well. https://www.hoofmanshipshop.com/product-page/stanley-surform-shaver-tool-blade-with-shaver-tool
Click to expand...
The Cody James I have is a proper big rasp, it's great for a proper trim but the Shinto is much easier to use especially for one-handed work, and dealing with specific areas of the wall.
 
OP, you won’t have wasted your money if you get the radius equivalent rasp as your first rasp and then find it not quite beefy enough for your main purposes, as it will always be good for the finishing touches.

I’ve got the monster Cody James Dymondback coarse rasp as my main rasp. It’s a beast. Because its so effective it can be used lightly.
 
Rowreach said:
The Cody James I have is a proper big rasp, it's great for a proper trim but the Shinto is much easier to use especially for one-handed work, and dealing with specific areas of the wall.
Click to expand...
I have the mini version of the cody james and use it for my proper trimming. Maybe I would like a shinto as well (I figure I use all these tools til they are blunt to a few more is all to the good?)
 
bought a cody james thing, never use it now, use a normal rasp for the whole job, as when done all the time you dont get chips, the feet are optimal no effort involved, and ideal for a quick whizz round

just practice really, the normal size rasps are pretty handy and just the right size, cody james is too big i think if you are on top of the job not needed

having an adjustable hoof rest stand would money better spent
 
I started with a radius rasp, but found that when I got better at rasping, it was easier to use the big rasp. I used the radius rasp for a few years though, and bought replacement blades for it once at great cost. It does leave a good finish but takes a long time to achieve.
 
I'll still be having him (minimally) trimmed by the farrier anyway, and he visits every 3-4 weeks so I wouldn't generally have much to do it's just that he's not getting enough gentle movement to wear rather than break at the moment 😞
Sounds like the little hand held will be a good starting point. Happily we've got a little stand already and he's an easy boy who stands well
 
Rowreach said:
Same here, I use a proper rasp for trimming but the coarse Radius rasp is great for finishing off and a quick repair job for any small chips.

I'm Dun on here gave me a Shinto rasp a while back, not something designed for horses but I use it all the time, it's brilliant (lots of different ones available, and cheaper than horse related hoof care equipment).
Click to expand...

An amazon special and just really useful. I like how light they are and the size is about right for smaller womens hands.
 
tristars said:
bought a cody james thing, never use it now, use a normal rasp for the whole job, as when done all the time you dont get chips, the feet are optimal no effort involved, and ideal for a quick whizz round

just practice really, the normal size rasps are pretty handy and just the right size, cody james is too big i think if you are on top of the job not needed

having an adjustable hoof rest stand would money better spent
Click to expand...
Rather depends on how many you’re doing, what stage they’re at, what surfaces they’re working on, how they wear their feet etc as to which rasps are most appropriate.

I wouldn’t be without my hoofjack though.
 
I started with the radius, still have it for tidying up, then got the surform, which is meatier and cheaper and easier to replace blades. I have a barefoot specialist trimmer person every 6 months to check angles - we built up to 6 months from 1 month, starting about 8 years ago - neither of my current ones have ever been shod. I do weekly checks, with a minimal input over winter, more in summer, depending on road work. Getting them to stand nicely is the key - a foot stand that does the lift up point bit for putting a hoof on on its walking surface , and then the cradle to lay the hoof on with the weight on the fetlock, was a game changer for my back. Mine also has height change ability, which meant my old guy could have it on the lower setting, and the short guy ditto, and the others at a level that suits my back. A person standing with leadrope and one of those mini lick thingies in their hand makes life very easy, although they do stand tied up if needed - I find having more space around me (and them) easier if they are held.
 
tristars said:
bought a cody james thing, never use it now, use a normal rasp for the whole job, as when done all the time you dont get chips, the feet are optimal no effort involved, and ideal for a quick whizz round

just practice really, the normal size rasps are pretty handy and just the right size, cody james is too big i think if you are on top of the job not needed

having an adjustable hoof rest stand would money better spent
Click to expand...
I have the mini cody james and love it. I also have a hoof stand, and normal rasps, and radius rasp.

I trim roughly once a week, and pay a professional on the 5th week. I was finding I worked up a sweat with my normal rasps, and as I have arm issues, I have very gladly swapped to the mini cody james which is effortless. I was a Christmas / birthday present and has been absolutely worth it. I think I'd struggle with a full size one.

NB My horse does grow hoof and does all winter non surface work on boots (long story relating to living out on soft muddy ground and having low heels that wear on round rough ground) so there is weekly toe growth to trim.
 
tristars said:
bought a cody james thing, never use it now, use a normal rasp for the whole job, as when done all the time you dont get chips, the feet are optimal no effort involved, and ideal for a quick whizz round

just practice really, the normal size rasps are pretty handy and just the right size, cody james is too big i think if you are on top of the job not needed

having an adjustable hoof rest stand would money better spent
Click to expand...
I was tempted by the CJ to have a try but just stuck with a normal rasp. It never occurred to me to trim with a normal rasp and then use a radius one. . For me the knack of reducing the effort required is very regular trimming. A quick whizz round is so much less work.

Roxylola said:
I'll still be having him (minimally) trimmed by the farrier anyway, and he visits every 3-4 weeks so I wouldn't generally have much to do it's just that he's not getting enough gentle movement to wear rather than break at the moment 😞
Sounds like the little hand held will be a good starting point. Happily we've got a little stand already and he's an easy boy who stands well
Click to expand...

don't forget that as the year goes on then hooves start to grow, a lot. 3 weeks growth on a BF horse is a fair amount. The comments I have heard about these rounded hand held rasps are that they are relatively blunt and it is a lot of work unless you are just putting a finish round on and also the cost of replacement blades, for yours £16.95. From the price of the rasps, radius especially, I have always thought it was a case of someone thought "Horse" item so applied a "horse" price.

A heller legend is £20.60 and you get both coarse and fine for that. :D
 
paddy555 said:
I was tempted by the CJ to have a try but just stuck with a normal rasp. It never occurred to me to trim with a normal rasp and then use a radius one. . For me the knack of reducing the effort required is very regular trimming. A quick whizz round is so much less work.



don't forget that as the year goes on then hooves start to grow, a lot. 3 weeks growth on a BF horse is a fair amount. The comments I have heard about these rounded hand held rasps are that they are relatively blunt and it is a lot of work unless you are just putting a finish round on and also the cost of replacement blades, for yours £16.95. From the price of the rasps, radius especially, I have always thought it was a case of someone thought "Horse" item so applied a "horse" price.

A heller legend is £20.60 and you get both coarse and fine for that. :D
Click to expand...
I find there is still work to do on a roughly weekly trim. But some of that is field is soft, and he is currently booted when not working on a surface.

I love rasp first, then use a coarse riders rasp to put the bevel on. Much easier than doing the bevel with a normal rasp. (Though my trimmer disapproves of the riders rasp!)

I havent yet blunted my radius rasp (black / coarse) but guess will eventually. I think I might get one like the cheaper one in link. Unless anyone has mastered how to change the blade in a radius rasp? Looks impossible to me? Is jammed in.
 
Fieldlife said:
me too! ;-) the link shared below / above looks much cheaper than the radius rasp. My coarse radius rasp is getting blunt, and whilst can get replacement blades, I cannot see any easy way of changing the blade. £36 for a new ones sounds much better than a new radius rasp!
Click to expand...
The blades are really easy to change, they do slide out and back in, the difference with the radius rasp is they’re guaranteed for life. I had one that split at the side where the blade went in, they went above and beyond to replace the “handle” (I was abroad at the time and they shipped it from the USA for free), it was found to be a faulty batch on investigation and the replacement is still going strong. I change my blades on both the black and white rasps, they’re tight but they do change.
 
I use the Cody James medium and find that is brilliant, I also have a save edge which I find is great for finishing off and I use both the black and white radius rasps and they leave a very good finish.
 
Fieldlife said:
I find there is still work to do on a roughly weekly trim. But some of that is field is soft, and he is currently booted when not working on a surface.

I love rasp first, then use a coarse riders rasp to put the bevel on. Much easier than doing the bevel with a normal rasp. (Though my trimmer disapproves of the riders rasp!)

I havent yet blunted my radius rasp (black / coarse) but guess will eventually. I think I might get one like the cheaper one in link. Unless anyone has mastered how to change the blade in a radius rasp? Looks impossible to me? Is jammed in.
Click to expand...
I agree there is always still work to do and I have always found riding barefoot doesn't help. It was just extra stimulation which produced even more growth. :D

I always bevel from underneath so I rarely put a foot forward onto the stand.

I am simply too stingy to pay for a "rounding" rasp the normal ones cost me enough 🤣🤣🤣
 
Maxidoodle said:
The blades are really easy to change, they do slide out and back in, the difference with the radius rasp is they’re guaranteed for life. I had one that split at the side where the blade went in, they went above and beyond to replace the “handle” (I was abroad at the time and they shipped it from the USA for free), it was found to be a faulty batch on investigation and the replacement is still going strong. I change my blades on both the black and white rasps, they’re tight but they do change.
Click to expand...
thanks, how to you get blade out? Idiots guide please.
 
paddy555 said:
I agree there is always still work to do and I have always found riding barefoot doesn't help. It was just extra stimulation which produced even more growth. :D

I always bevel from underneath so I rarely put a foot forward onto the stand.

I am simply too stingy to pay for a "rounding" rasp the normal ones cost me enough 🤣🤣🤣
Click to expand...

I mostly use the stand whilst working on the hoof underneath. My horse has an annoying leaning habit. And is a bit impervious to being told off about it. Stand makes it easier. I think having used black radius rasp for putting bevel on for about 3 years, cost per use is probably fairly low.
 
Fieldlife said:
With similar logic I also have one of these in medium coarseness. Makes it so much easier! I was sweating with simple older rasps! This glides through hoof! https://www.equinepodiatrysupplies.co.uk/product/littlefoot-rasp-by-cody-james-tools/
Click to expand...

This picture gives me the eeby -jeebies:eek::eek::eek:

Make sure you wear some decent gloves. Don't have to be expensive, though I do have a posh specialist pair of gloves, those suede work gloves would give decent protection.
e.g.

Supertouch Excel Rigger Gloves 21073

Designed for heavy-duty handling tasks, the Supertouch Excel Rigger Gloves 21073 are available at £1.33 per pair. Featuring a high quality full-grain leather palm, these gloves are ideal for agricultural, construction and forestry industry work. Reinforced Index Finger - Safety Cuff - Fleece...
www.workgloves.co.uk www.workgloves.co.uk
 
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