Redhill Sand on my arena....Unsuitable!

V

VLHIEASTON

Well-Known Member
Joined
23 September 2006
Messages
977
Visit site
Hi there guys!

Well, we re-placed our sand surface 18 months ago (from a surposidly equestrian silica sand supplied from our local equestrian sand suppliers, which I had annalysed to find it wasn't as advertised and wasn't far off just being builders sand), and replaced it with very expensive Redhill almost white sand, which is not far off a powder and keeps drifting to one side.

This summer is really the first time I've used my arena as I kept breaking both my wrists, well, OMG, the so called good Redhil sand is actually unusable in summer, despite regular maintanance and is so loose now we can't even drive a quad, ride on mower or 4 x 4 on it to maintain it, as the wheels just spin around and you just get stuck!

So, what do I do? Again we have an arena I can't maintain or use, after I've just spent yet another 7,500k on this new Redhill sand :-(

To say I am sick to the back teeth of the whole palarva is an understatement, as I only really had finances to sort it again once, which I thought I did.

I thought about adding Hydrogel to the sand to keep it moist, but what's the point when I only have one horse using it twice a week and I do not have time to be watering it every day. (Hence why I don't use it more).

I have had to harrow it once a week, with just one horse using it twice a week for just 20 mins, now it's too dry, deep and loose to even get on it to harrow or maintain.

I wish I could turn back time and just have put a waxed surface on to begin with, with all this fathing so far, I could have had one by now! They are fab.

Like I say, I don't have time to be watering it all the time, so feel I am pretty stuffed TBH.

All I would like is a rideable arena just for the one horse to use 3 times a week, is that really too much to ask? :-(
 
Sorry to hear you have been having so mcuh trouble!

The first issue is whether this sand is suitable for equestrian use. It needs to have angular particles, not round ones and be of small size around 0.25 is ideal.

If it is the right sand, then has the sand had enough water on it to compact? To figure this out try to put your finder straight down through the sand, if you can get past the first it is not ready for use. It needs more (constant) watering and the probably rolling one more time before it's ready.

If it is sufficiently compacted it may just need more maintenance watering. An inexpensive way to do this is to take a fence post, put two pieces of wood to creat a cross base at the bottom and then add a garden sprinkler at the top. My DIY sprinkler does a 20m circle so I can get the whole arena done with just having to move it once - not much of a hassle.

If you have done all this and are still not happy you may want to consider additives. I am about to put Clopf in my arena (but we have large particles of sand which is a fundamental problem we couldn't get away from unfortunately) to see if that helps.
 
Our yard owner has put the Clopf fibre through our school, it was cheap sand and rubber it has made a massive difference in the stability. In the summer, if it isn’t watered, the going isn’t great but it is ride-able. It really has made a positive difference to the surface.
 
Sorry to heat this. You should have gone for the Trackright. Mine still looks and rides as good as the day you saw it. Still no slipping and have popped 1.30m on it without problems. Did you not get the new sand analysed? How have you been breaking your wrists. Hope you are on the mend now :-)
 
Sorry but phone won't allow me to edit. Meant to say sorry to hear this.
The other thing I would say is just be careful mentioning the supplier of the sand as if it does end up going to court then this post could jeopardise things.
Hope you get sorted soon.
 
I'm not sure but I thought pure sand on its own isn't a stable substance to ride on anyway? It's used as a component of many if not all surface types and options - except pure rubber strips and carpet strips, although these are often laid directly onto straight silica sand.

If it's very dry, it will move and very wet with poor drainage it will go puddingy. I think you may need a stabiliser or binding fibre mixing in, and to keep your maintenance programme strict.
 
Hi everyone!

So sorry, I didn't realise you had all replied.

Thanks so much for your thoughts, I think it's because I have been harrowing it. therefore 'loosening' it but not re-rollering it after, so it's become un compacted again....and on top of this, it's also been dry with it being the summer (ish).

I've made a 'leveller' so will just use that and see how it goes.

Yes Mrs Wish, think you are perhaps right, I also didn't realise that I'd have water a sand surface in the summer either. I bet you don't need to water yours?!...I don't have time for watering it.

I may end up puuting rubber on top but God knows which one! Or maybe Clopf or something as a stabliser.

Arenas are such a nightmare, sometimes i wish I hadn't bothered with one.
Thank you guy's xx
 
In my experience you would have to spend very serious money (30k plus) to get a surface that does not need watering. Non-wax sand surfaces all need regular watering and need a very intensive period of watering at the beginning. Put a sprinkler on it and it will water itself overnight, it doesn't take up your time and you certainly don't have to stand there watering it all day!

Rubber will help with freezing problems, Clopf will make it less deep and will retain the water better, but you will still need to water it. Especially if you are in a windy area you will need to water it so that the Clopf stays put.
 
Hi all
Lakeside has two sand schools and a lung area all have Redhill fine, built the latest 8months ago.

We find over all not to much trouble, but it sounds like you have to much drainage under ground and is why this dries out to the degree that is causing it to ride deep.

So do not look at the sand, look at the drainage beneath the school first if you feel the need rebuild.

Rubber and fibre will consolidate the surface and firm the top layer up.

Finally the depth no deeper than 150mm(6 inches ) this is critical.
R
 
We've got Redhill down, with combiride, and a rubber crumb and its blinking perfect all year round.

I would be ringing the company and going mad, we certainly did NOT pay £30,000 for our surface and we don't have to water it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top