Replacing electrics on ifor 505, straightforward?

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Procrastination

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The electric cable on my ifor 505 is looking a little worse for wear and I think it may need replacing. The right hand side rear lights have developed an intermittent problem, I suspect the dodgy cable is to blame. My first port of call will be changing the bulbs but if I were to replace the main cable that goes from the from of the trailer and plugs in to the tow bar, is this straightforward enough for an average joe to do?

Last service they replaced the plug but left the cable which I was a bit surprised about as it has perished in multiple places.

If I were to replace it myself does anybody have any tips...and what exactly do I need to buy?
 
suggestion...move the trailer to an all purpose trailer and towing accessories workshop......(not horse trailer specialist)......there's a good chance they will fix your wiring and plug problems with new stuff immediately and cost effectively.
 
Depends which bit is dodgy. If the lhs bulbs work, try those before buying new ones. If you have access to a multi meter that will tell you if it's the cable.

But to be honest if your trailer is anything like mine, it's a dam site easier to get someone to replace it that knows what they are doing, with the correct equipment (ie a ramp/pit!)
 
Before you start dismantling the trailer, start checking the easy things. There is many an amateur mechanic who has started a major engine overhaul when they forgot to check that there's petrol in the tank! Undo the light fitting, take out the bulb, and check that there is actually electricity getting to the contacts to the bulb. Sometimes simply rubbing the bottom of the bulb (the lead bit) on a stone will remove the build up of oxide and improve the contact.

Actually, that cable from the car to the trailer is pretty well insulated, so even if the outside looks ropey, it may be OK. Another area for a poor contact is that multipin connector betweem the trailer and the car. Get a wire brush and clean up the pins, then some WD40 and clean the insides of the female contacts. There's an old saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" Get that multimetre and start checking before you mend anything. I think there should be a junction box under the trailer somewhere. That's also a good place to test with your multimetre.
 
Thanks for the replies!

Have been having a look around this morning and discovered how little clearance there is underneath for doing anything! Definitely a job for somebody with a ramp/pit.

have done a bit of maintenance of pins with wd40 etc so we'll see how we go. It's an annoying fault as often when you first connect the trailer up all the lights appear to work but at some point mid journey the RHS lights will go out (think the indicator still works though?)

The coil part of the cable at the front has perished in several places and you can see the individual wires inside, however they all seem to be intact.

Towing vehicle is not here at the mo so will have to wait until it's back to test everything again
 
Procrastination said:
Thanks for the replies!

Have been having a look around this morning and discovered how little clearance there is underneath for doing anything! Definitely a job for somebody with a ramp/pit.

have done a bit of maintenance of pins with wd40 etc so we'll see how we go. It's an annoying fault as often when you first connect the trailer up all the lights appear to work but at some point mid journey the RHS lights will go out (think the indicator still works though?)

The coil part of the cable at the front has perished in several places and you can see the individual wires inside, however they all seem to be intact.

Towing vehicle is not here at the mo so will have to wait until it's back to test everything again
Click to expand...

For testing, you could put some insulation tape on those wires to make sure they are not shorting out against each other. That will also allow you to get on with the testing when the towing vehicle arrives.
 
I had my trailer's electric cable replaced at a 'proper horsebox place' in Sept during its annual service. It was no more than £30. I could have done it myself but for that price it wasn't worth me even trying.
 
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