Reproofing own turn out rugs

Crazy_cat_lady

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Usually I send my rugs off to be washed and reproofed unless they are small eg coolers. However I've managed to fit a double duvet in my new washing machine so would like to wash as many of my rugs myself where possible to save money. (I'm going to try and cram a 500g stable rug in tonight!!)

I'm wondering if it would be worth washing my turn out myself and using some of that Nikwax stuff in the wash, however has/ does anyone do this and if so is it as reliable a method as paying someone to do it? The last thing I want is to try it myself and it not be as effective and the rug leak. Any tips for wash/ temperature/ spin settings from those who've had success?
 

Griffin

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I'm not sure on the washing bit because I usually send mine off for that bit. However, I have reproofed my own using the spray on stuff (I think I used Lincoln the last time) and I was quite impressed with how well it stood up to the weather this winter. My top tip is to try to spray it somewhere outside but sheltered from the wind, otherwise you will reproof yourself!
 

HappyHollyDays

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I do the boys Rhino no fills every year in the washing machine. I put them on a long but cool wash with nothing but bio washing liquid to get them mud and grease free and then let them air dry before reproofing them with liquid Graingers which I paint on.

They are 4 and 5 years old now and have never leaked.
 

Becc

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Usually either amazon or eBay, but any camping sort of shop will have it. Fabsil gold is the best one to buy.
 
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autumn7

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I've machine washed all my outdoor rugs for years. Never use any detergent whatsoever, just wash on a 'duvet' cycle at 40 deg. They always come up clean and fresh. I have never needed to reproof. Rugs include Shires, Premier Equine, Weatherbeeta, Ruggles.
Does Fabsil still leave rugs breathable as well as waterproof?
 

Andie02

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I used to clean, reproof and repair rugs professionally doing a proper top quality job and used Nikwax Rugwash and Rugproof and proper top quality commercial machines that are programmable so therefore able to increase the water level, not all commercal machines have that facility. Modern domestic washing machines are all about "economy" and use naff all water, not even enough to rinse your own washing properly ! Turnout rugs need room to move in a machine and a good amount of water to rinse them properly so depending on what size of rugs and thickness it would need to be a large powerful machine that uses a lot of water to do the job effectively. A very large and really thick winter combo would ideally need an 18kg washing machine, cramming in a turnout rug will not wash and rinse properly and it would come out of the machine badly creased. Hair would also be a problem with a domestic machine possibly blocking it up, commercial machines have a much bigger drainage outlet and no filter, they have a drain valve and just " dump" the water and even they can get blocked. Fabsil is ok we did try it but we much preferred Nikwax, I would recommend hanging rugs over a washing line, not on windy days though and, spraying it on with a garden sprayer kept just for the job and then sponging it in just on the outer of the rug only, if mixed up slightly stronger it will seal any minute holes. Reproofing a dirty rug will seal in the muck and will be a nightmare to then get properly clean the next time. Using domestic products for washing rugs and pet bedding is not adviseable as it can cause skin irritations to your animals and also to humans if not rinsed out properly ! It can also break down the waterproof backings on waterproof items and ruin them, it may not happen immediately but with further washing will most probably do so. Is it really worth the risk for the sake of using the correct product for the job? Also, I always air dried either outside on washing lines or indoors in a drying room, tumble drying is not adviseable as that too can ruin rugs. Wash t/outs at 30 degrees, stable rugs can be washed at 40 degrees.

P.s. I have edited.
 
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LeneHorse

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I would be wary about washing turnout rugs in a domestic washing machine. The last thing you need right now is for your washing machine to break down. Hopefully businesses like rugwash will soon be able to reopen with social distancing observed.
 

Baccara

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Ive been using a power hose on mine. They seem clean, its got rid of dirt, dried muck and they smell clean. And have dried extremely quickly in this weather. Ans Im hoping I havnt damaged their waterproofing.
 

HappyHollyDays

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I would be wary about washing turnout rugs in a domestic washing machine. The last thing you need right now is for your washing machine to break down. Hopefully businesses like rugwash will soon be able to reopen with social distancing observed.

I managed to get mine done two weeks before my 12 year old machine conked out on me. I got a new much larger machine from AO.com delivered within a few days on Easter Monday. Very relieved they are still working because Curry’s and similar local places are all closed.
 

ILuvCowparsely

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Usually I send my rugs off to be washed and reproofed unless they are small eg coolers. However I've managed to fit a double duvet in my new washing machine so would like to wash as many of my rugs myself where possible to save money. (I'm going to try and cram a 500g stable rug in tonight!!)

I'm wondering if it would be worth washing my turn out myself and using some of that Nikwax stuff in the wash, however has/ does anyone do this and if so is it as reliable a method as paying someone to do it? The last thing I want is to try it myself and it not be as effective and the rug leak. Any tips for wash/ temperature/ spin settings from those who've had success?
I hang mine on a clothes rail, hose or jet wash, and I like the Lincoln rug spray, really good. http://lincolnhorsecare.com/product/lincoln-weather-proofa-universal/
 

cowgirl16

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I used to clean, reproof and repair rugs professionally doing a proper top quality job and used Nikwax Rugwash and Rugproof and proper top quality commercial machines that are programmable so therefore able to increase the water level, not all commercal machines have that facility. Modern domestic washing machines are all about "economy" and use naff all water, not even enough to rinse your own washing properly ! Turnout rugs need room to move in a machine and a good amount of water to rinse them properly so depending on what size of rugs and thickness it would need to be a large powerful machine that uses a lot of water to do the job effectively. A very large and really thick winter combo would ideally need an 18kg washing machine, cramming in a turnout rug will not wash and rinse properly and it would come out of the machine badly creased. Hair would also be a problem with a domestic machine possibly blocking it up, commercial machines have a much bigger drainage outlet and no filter, they have a drain valve and just " dump" the water and even they can get blocked. Fabsil is ok we did try it but we much preferred Nikwax, I would recommend hanging rugs over a washing line, not on windy days though and, spraying it on with a garden sprayer kept just for the job and then sponging it in just on the outer of the rug only, if mixed up slightly stronger it will seal any minute holes. Reproofing a dirty rug will seal in the muck and will be a nightmare to then get properly clean the next time. Using domestic products for washing rugs and pet bedding is not adviseable as it can cause skin irritations to your animals and also to humans if not rinsed out properly ! It can also break down the waterproof backings on waterproof items and ruin them, it may not happen immediately but with further washing will most probably do so. Is it really worth the risk for the sake of using the correct product for the job? Also, I always air dried either outside on washing lines or indoors in a drying room, tumble drying is not adviseable as that too can ruin rugs. Wash t/outs at 30 degrees, stable rugs can be washed at 40 degrees.

P.s. I have edited.

Excellent advice Andie02, especially the bit about the amount of water domestic machines use - I washed a stable rug the other day - it came out vile- going to try putting it through another rinse cycle and see it that improves things - fingers crossed! I certainly won't bother trying to clean any rugs in my machine again!
 

Andie02

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Ive been using a power hose on mine. They seem clean, its got rid of dirt, dried muck and they smell clean. And have dried extremely quickly in this weather. Ans Im hoping I havnt damaged their waterproofing.

Never power hosed myself but apparently it can force the waterproof backing off the waterproof fabric.
 

Andie02

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Excellent advice Andie02, especially the bit about the amount of water domestic machines use - I washed a stable rug the other day - it came out vile- going to try putting it through another rinse cycle and see it that improves things - fingers crossed! I certainly won't bother trying to clean any rugs in my machine again!

Oops no surprise there ! It will need a lot more than rinsing !!! Lol
 

mustardsmum

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Hose off with normal hosepipe, using a soft body brush to get rid of mud and a coat of Fabsil. The only winter my rugs were not waterproof was the year i paid to have them professionally reproofed and repaired. The repairs was dreadful - inside of rug with the patch was all puckered up, poorly seamed and seam edges not sealed. Well know rug cleaning firm in the south west...... Have done them my self ever since and every year my rugs have been waterproof. Much cheaper, £15 for the fabsil. I get if you have masses of rugs though - it is time consuming. Can also recommend tent seam sealant if you do have to patch your rug, generously applied to seam and its edges.
 

Crazy_cat_lady

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Thanks a lot to think about those that say do them on a low temperature wash what temperature do you use?

I've just washed the stable rug, I've had to do 2 washes and there was still a bit of debris stuck to it fortunately it's a shiny material so I've been able to just brush it off and it doesnt look too bad I think half the problem was I'd rather forced it in the washing machine so it didnt have the full room to circulate so mainly the extremities got washed. Its slung over the washing line now!
 

Andie02

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Thanks a lot to think about those that say do them on a low temperature wash what temperature do you use?

I've just washed the stable rug, I've had to do 2 washes and there was still a bit of debris stuck to it fortunately it's a shiny material so I've been able to just brush it off and it doesnt look too bad I think half the problem was I'd rather forced it in the washing machine so it didnt have the full room to circulate so mainly the extremities got washed. Its slung over the washing line now!

Temperatures on my post !
 

Andie02

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I've machine washed all my outdoor rugs for years. Never use any detergent whatsoever, just wash on a 'duvet' cycle at 40 deg. They always come up clean and fresh. I have never needed to reproof. Rugs include Shires, Premier Equine, Weatherbeeta, Ruggles.
Does Fabsil still leave rugs breathable as well as waterproof?

Its not going to get rid of the bacteria though.
 

Fransurrey

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I've washed pony turnouts (4'9") in our machine for years, but will probably do my cob's by hand - either in the bath or outside in a large plastic tub that I have on a hot day, due to it needing room to move in the machine. I use the Nikwax wash and reproof. In the machine I run two full cycles at 30 degrees - the first with the rugwash, the second without (and I check the filter after each wash). This is to help make sure no detergent residue remains from previous washes. Never actually used a commercial rug cleaner - it would cost me a fortune with all the sweet itch rugs! I have to say, washing by hand is more effective, probably because of the water economy of modern machines.
 

Andie02

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Hose off with normal hosepipe, using a soft body brush to get rid of mud and a coat of Fabsil. The only winter my rugs were not waterproof was the year i paid to have them professionally reproofed and repaired. The repairs was dreadful - inside of rug with the patch was all puckered up, poorly seamed and seam edges not sealed. Well know rug cleaning firm in the south west...... Have done them my self ever since and every year my rugs have been waterproof. Much cheaper, £15 for the fabsil. I get if you have masses of rugs though - it is time consuming. Can also recommend tent seam sealant if you do have to patch your rug, generously applied to seam and its edges.

Know what you mean about dreadfull repairs. When I look on others sites I'm nearly rolling about laughing, there are very few Rug companies that actually know how to repair correctly or even have the correct "new" materials to carry them out. There are many that bodge with old tatty rugs, this is not the correct way to do repairs. We were taught the correct way how to do it, it really is a specialised field, not a make it up as you go along bodge- it job !
 
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