Reseeding and paddock maintenance

[JoannaC]

So finally how our own land yay but the fields are very full of weeds so planning to weedkill the current winter paddock after harrowing and then reseseeding. So just in process of purchasing a harrow that can be pulled behind our tractor mower and getting a knapsack for the weedkiller but and this seems a stupid question, how do I reseed, is there a special contraption I can use or do I just chuck a load of seed about and hope for the best! Any advice on small harrows would be good too. This is the one I was thinking but open to suggestions.

https://chainharrowsforsale.co.uk/trailed-chain-harrows/4849-4ft-wide-chain-harrow-trailed.html

 

[TotalMadgeness]

This time last year I was in the same position as you - fields FULL of weeds (rushes thistles docks nettles)! So I started with a boom sprayer for spraying big areas at a time - mainly because I found the knapsack too heavy to lug about but now I use a handheld weed wipe device as I've got the majority of weeds under control and the weed wipe uses a lot less weedkiller. I also have a chain harrow (the 4ft mat type) and a roller which you fill with water, which I got from ebay, and my most recent investment was a spreader for the back of the quad to re-seed. I did use a push along manual seeder last year but it really takes too long to re-seed that way. Other thing is if your horses are good do-ers and perhaps prone to laminitis get seed which is compatible - basically seed which is not rye grass. Good luck!

 

[JillA]

You can do one of two things for reseeding - have it sprayed off, then ploughed and reseeded, but be aware it will need best part of 18 months to establish the roots before it is grazed. You could seed it in the autumn (the ground needs to be warm enough and wet enough for germination so mid summer may well be too dry) and get a crop of hay off it the following summer, before grazing it the spring after. Otherwise you are wasting all that money spent on buying seed, which isn't cheap - it will get pulled up by the roots.
Or you could find a contractor who can over seed it (direct drill new seed into an existing sward. It still needs time to establish roots though, it just saves you Roundup and about 75% of the seed.
If you spray it well with a selective herbicide the broadleaf weeds will die and without their competition the grass might recover well. And you only need to manage without it for a month or less

 

[JoannaC]

Thanks guys, will crack on with getting my harrow and sprayer, definitely can't lose the grazing for more than a couple of months as don't have enough unfortunately but hopefully as you say the grass will be able to come back once all the weeds have been zapped!

 

[OWLIE185]

I see that you are in Hertfordshire.
I use a specialist grassland contractor to maintain our grassland as he has specialist equipment and knowledge.
My advice would be to have a soil test carried out first to determine if there are any deficiencies in the soil and then to dress it accordingly.
I would also determine if any drainage is required and install it now before re-seeding to ensure minimum mud in the Winter months.
Also determine what the weeds are and which spray would be the best to treat them. You may need several applications to get rid of most of them but remember that there will be weed seeds in the ground which may come up later on so you will need to keep them under control.
There are many varieties and mixtures of grass seed on the market and depending on what you want for your field you can make your choice.
There are several ways of re-seeding the field be it broadcast or drilled but again there are advantages and disadvantages to each one.
A good grassland contractor will have the correct tractors and equipment so as to establish the grass as quickly as possible.
Once the grass is growing it is good practice to cut and collect it several times to get it to thicken it up as much as possible.

 

[turnbuckle]

How many acres?

All the other advice is wise and correct, but if it isn't very big won't cost much to get a bit of equine seed from a country store, spread by hand on the bare bits and roll in. VERY quick and dirty but every little helps! Getting weedkiller right is key. Might be worth calling local agri chemical rep and asking them to come out as a favour (as any sale would be tiny) to advise....

 

[whiteflower]

If the land is very weedy you will probably be better off getting a contractor in to boom spray for you. Not only is using a knapsack back breaking, unless you have the correct qualifications you can't use most of the useful weedkillers that leave the grass intact. You can buy glyphosphate based weedkiller from garden centres but you may loose surrounding grass too and it's not always the best product for all weeds. I've used contractors who spray with a different chemical depending on what weeds are present and grazing has improved massively.
I harrow, over seed with a spreader and roll when ground still moist

 

[JoannaC]

Thanks for the replies, the area I want to do is only about an acre so thought I could do it myself. I know a qualified person who is getting me the weedkiller so that isn't a problem, I forget what it's called but it kills everything except grass. We're having a lot of work done this year including building a manege and new drainage put in to help with the mud so just wanted to sort out this bit for the Winter and then next year do everywhere properly when we have less going on!

 

[JillA]

Like they say with gardens, give yourself enough time (a year at least) to fully know what you have and haven't got before you make expensive decisions.
The priority is weed control really - I did my first field a bit at a time with a knapsack, over a couple of weeks, with a substance called MCPA, cost about £30 in todays values and a bit of effort. Depends what your tame supplier gets you - getting rid of clover is a good plan too, it suppresses the grass and is really not good for horses. Once mine was gone the grass was loads better

 

[kirinsam]

If you can afford it get a framed harrow as the normal chains can only be towed but a frame can be lifted and reversed into corners , much much better for poo spreading etc. Sheep are worth their weight in gold in helping improve grazing (2 will do) and as others have said time , treat it right and it will get better year on year . Oh and be strict with paddock rotation/resting using electric to section off.

 

[Achinghips]

Harrow first with your chain link harrows which will pull out moss, thatch, shallow rooted weeds and also serve to aerate the soil and provide some earth for the seeds to adhere to. I would boom spray with your choice of herbicide straight after harrowing and then reseed a week later, preferably after you've mowed .... with only an acre to do, you can easily do this by hand. Then Harrow again so that the seeds can get contact with the soil and pull out some of the killed stuff. Ideally second Harrow you'd use a spring tine, rather than a chain Harrow, but a chain Harrow will do, just don't be too aggressive with it. Many would say to roll in order to get the seeds Into contact with the soil, however, if you have clay, do not do this as you will compact it when you've only just aired it. Keep it well watered over the next few weeks. Remember the obvious .... seeds need oxygen, sunshine and plenty of water to germinate as well as actual soil contact.

 

[Tangaroo]

I have 2 acres and manage it myself. I have 4 sheep who keep the weeds at bay. Once the ground starts to dry up i harrow it and then spread grass seed and fertiliser by hand and then roll it in. Ive divided the field off so i can do quarter or half at a time while the horses graze the rest.

 

[JillA]

I have 2 acres and manage it myself. I have 4 sheep who keep the weeds at bay.

I've steered clear of having sheep because of the DEFRA involvement, movement orders, record keeping - how much of that do you have to do?

 

[Antw23uk]

I've steered clear of having sheep because of the DEFRA involvement, movement orders, record keeping - how much of that do you have to do?

You will need a CPH number and register as a smallholder ... its really easy, just a phone call and then as far as I can work out you buy your sheep, stick them in the field and keep them as pets and let them have a happy easy life! .... dont quote me on that though but I think thats the gist of it.

 

[Antw23uk]

Does anyone know if Grazon Pro kills clover please?

 

[whiteflower]

I know a qualified person who is getting me the weedkiller so that isn't a problem, I forget what it's called but it kills everything except grass.

You need the qualifications to apply it, not just purchase it. A lot of people do as you are and go around the regulations as the likelyhood of it being discovered on a small holding is minimal but they are trying to reduce run off into watercourses by inappropriate use.

If your only doing an acre you would probably be ok with a knapsack. We have invested in a small boom for the back of our compact tractor and done the relevant qualifications, might be worth considering if you want to manage your own land long term.
You will be surprised how much improvement you can make to land in a relatively short time. It's a learning curve but we have really enjoyed learning how to be self sufficient with land management

 

[JillA]

You can also find out by reading the labels and you don't have to buy the product first, you will find them on line

 

[Haniki]

There was a new herbicide product advertised in the Mole Valley Farmers Newsletter, it was called 'Envy' and described as being ideal for :'weedy horse fields'.

 

[JillA]

There was a new herbicide product advertised in the Mole Valley Farmers Newsletter, it was called 'Envy' and described as being ideal for :'weedy horse fields'.

http://uk.dowagro.com/products/envy/ - not chemicals I have used in the past so I don't know if they are restricted? Can be grazed after 7 days which is useful

 

[Antw23uk]

Thanks JillA I will look into Trust rather than Grazon I think.

 

[JoannaC]

That's really useful JillA thank you. I will look into doing the qualification myself if it is simple to do, I would also like a couple of sheep but my husband isn't so keen on that idea! Not sure what the dogs would think either although might teach them to be sheep friendly as I tend to avoid them when out walking. Lots of helpful advice thank you everyone.

 

[Tangaroo]

You will need a CPH number and register as a smallholder ... its really easy, just a phone call and then as far as I can work out you buy your sheep, stick them in the field and keep them as pets and let them have a happy easy life! .... dont quote me on that though but I think thats the gist of it.

Yes thats pretty much it. We have a holding no and you are meant to fill in forms if you get new sheep but to be honest no one checks on you and our sheep are just fat happy lawnmowers and live out their days with us

 

[Antw23uk]

Yes thats pretty much it. We have a holding no and you are meant to fill in forms if you get new sheep but to be honest no one checks on you and our sheep are just fat happy lawnmowers and live out their days with us

Thats it, a holding number as well but i think you can ring that through also? I just need to find time to sheep proof my fencing and then I will eventually get round to getting a couple.

 

[JillA]

That's really useful JillA thank you. I will look into doing the qualification myself if it is simple to do.

I looked into it and it costs megabucks, involved course and exam normally at your local agricultural college. Worth asking them though. Pondering the sheep, I know someone looking to rehome two of last years cades and she doesn't want them slaughtered. I have a holding no (if I can find it ) but I'm trying to reduce stocks not adding to them. How much maintenance, foot care, shearing etc would two of them need?

 

[Achinghips]

Sheep aren't that easy to look after, better on big acreage where you have grass to spare. I wouldn't have any, given. Best to find a local farmer who will let you borrow them.

 

[Haniki]

My Mole Valley Farmers Newsletter says that 'Envy' is a professional use product so it does need a certificated operator.

 

[lamlyn2012]

I looked into it and it costs megabucks, involved course and exam normally at your local agricultural college. Worth asking them though. ?

The course is not that expensive and not too involved really. OH did it last year over about 4 days (which included the day of the exam.)Can't remember exact cost but think it was around 450-500 pounds.
Well worth doing though. Experts wont even discuss unless you have the certificate as they wont be able to sell you the product.
Have found ProGreen very helpful and their website is very good.
Envy has been recommended for buttercups but haven't had the opportunity to try it yet.

 

[jgmbng]

We have just bought a Sealey broadcast sprayer for the back of the quad. Hubby says we should have done it 3 years ago when we first bought the land !
We have used a knapsack sprayer up until now which has taken days. We sprayed a 3 acre paddock last weekend in 15 mins.
Have another 8 ish acres to do but need to do it over a few weeks so we can juggle ponies and paddocks.

 

[PorkChop]

Honestly, sheep are the bomb! They keep the grass and weeds short, they keep the ground level with their feet and they help with worm control - whats not to love