Riding sharp horses?

millitiger

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Vinnie is very sensitive and forward going and I find the best (and hardest!) thing to do is to keep riding forward and to keep the leg there- not necessarily 'on' but it needs to be there to support.

For me, it is too easy to get handy with sharp horses so I have to really consciously think about having soft wrists and leg softly wrapped around (and not be scared of using it!) and try to control him much more with my shoulders back, core control and weight.
 

Sameru

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2 words - Neck... Strap!!

Agree with the above - sitting quietly and using your body more than hands to decrease your chance of the front end going up where you dont want it ;)
 

Firewell

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My mum has been having lesson with a GP dr rider whos had some great tips for sharp horses (my mums horse can be quite sharp in a spooky when he wants to be!). She basically said that yes have your leg always on for support and to keep them together, connected but always give them an outlet for energy, but in a way you can control. E.g keep a firm outside rein, lots of supporting leg but a super soft inside rein so instead of buggering off or spooking or trying to back off your leg the energy is directed to the inside bend and they still have space to move forwards but its in a controlled way.
The most important thing she says is to never block them, they must always have a direction for their energy to go.
 

mtj

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The obvious one is full/sticky seat breeches.

I prefer a balance strap (attached to d rings). I'm small and find the position of a neck strap is too far away.
 

fruity

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ummm i have found buying a western endurance saddle amazing! Have decided to bite the bullet and join endurance GB with my sharp mare,her 17hh warmblood friend has to jog to keep up with her walk and mines a 15hh l/w thing!

Right well mine is vvv good at dropping her shoulder and spinning 360! Over the years i've developed a nack to go with her,i also always keep my hands v quiet and totally ignore her behaviour,i used to get really annoyed which then made her worse so i soon learnt to just ignore her bad behaviour and then reward her when she had quietened down. I always keep my legs well around her and slightly on,if she feels you back off she is more inclined to try and spook.
I try and do some leg yielding to keep her mind active when she's threatening to have a moment,it sort of takes her attention away from the tantrum she's trying to do! She tried it on in the endurance saddle yesterday (like a armchair,you could sit in it forever) and it is so solid on her when she whipped round i didn't move an inch,total result for me as in my sj saddle i was always having to make sure i was in complete balance as would be out the side window,now i know when i'm on my own miles from anywhere i have more of a chance of sticking when she has a 'moment'. Glad i'm not the only one who's horse is on it's toes,when i get on her and set off she literally is in Piaffe for half of the ride! Think the grass might have something to do with it!
 

Horses 123

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Wouldn't recommend lots of transitions, they are meant to get a horse focused but with a sharp horse they can be counterintuitive. All they do with my own horse is unsettle him, and that's when he starts to play up. For my horse anyway, I tend to stick to one pace at a time, using shapes and finding gears within the pace to keep him on my aids without getting too worried. He likes to bolt in cold weather (and if he bolts there's no stopping him!!) but I find that if he lets off steam slowly through a good bit of trot, with a stretch in walk before and after, then I can ask for a steady canter without him getting tense. Then in canter I will do a lap of the arena, give him a pat and let him walk again - but no stretch yet, as then I will move on to whatever I had hoped to work on eg bending or some jumping. If I ever feel him getting tense and explosive it's back to steady walk or steady trot, no big asks. Hope this helps!!
 

Auslander

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Wouldn't recommend lots of transitions, they are meant to get a horse focused but with a sharp horse they can be counterintuitive. All they do with my own horse is unsettle him, and that's when he starts to play up. For my horse anyway, I tend to stick to one pace at a time, using shapes and finding gears within the pace to keep him on my aids without getting too worried. He likes to bolt in cold weather (and if he bolts there's no stopping him!!) but I find that if he lets off steam slowly through a good bit of trot, with a stretch in walk before and after, then I can ask for a steady canter without him getting tense. Then in canter I will do a lap of the arena, give him a pat and let him walk again - but no stretch yet, as then I will move on to whatever I had hoped to work on eg bending or some jumping. If I ever feel him getting tense and explosive it's back to steady walk or steady trot, no big asks. Hope this helps!!

It's nearly 10 years since she posted, so I suspect she's worked it out by now!
 
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