Rug repair guidance!

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Allthererriers

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I’ve had a look at threads on here and they’ve helped to get good guidance on rug repairs. Due to a lack of local people doing repairs I’m going to start doing them with a new industrial sewing machine and was hoping for help with how to fixed ripped rug linings/inner material - not sure of the best way and practicing on my own rugs first! Also do any professionals use the glue on patches externally on turnouts? I’d rather avoid them in favour of sewing patches and using @cremedemonthe method of proofing the stitches with 50:50 beeswax and paraffin wax and heating it (making it as I type!). Would be wonderful to hear how to achieve the best results to return rugs to their full working and waterproof glory! Noted that all rugs should be clean before repairing. Any guidance would be appreciated!
 
Allthererriers said:
Hi @Andie02 for some reason I can’t access the messaging when clicking on your name, not sure how I can PM another way? Very new to H&H forum so forgive me if I’m being a bit slow!
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It's because you are too new on the forum, make a few more posts and it will let you. I think it's 10, I'm not sure. There's a thread where you can make pointless posts in Clubhouse.
 
Allthererriers said:
Hi @Andie02 for some reason I can’t access the messaging when clicking on your name, not sure how I can PM another way? Very new to H&H forum so forgive me if I’m being a bit slow!
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Hi, I've been here a few years now and I am still learning about stuff. Sorry I had forgotten about having to post a few times before being able to pm.
 
Allthererriers said:
I’ve had a look at threads on here and they’ve helped to get good guidance on rug repairs. Due to a lack of local people doing repairs I’m going to start doing them with a new industrial sewing machine and was hoping for help with how to fixed ripped rug linings/inner material - not sure of the best way and practicing on my own rugs first! Also do any professionals use the glue on patches externally on turnouts? I’d rather avoid them in favour of sewing patches and using @cremedemonthe method of proofing the stitches with 50:50 beeswax and paraffin wax and heating it (making it as I type!). Would be wonderful to hear how to achieve the best results to return rugs to their full working and waterproof glory! Noted that all rugs should be clean before repairing. Any guidance would be appreciated!
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Most if not all rug repair people won't touch rugs for repair until they've been washed first.

I always use strong fishing line which seems to work very well if I'm fixing them myself.
 
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I’m keen to patch where possible, but is there ever a concern or knowledge that a rug will leak if patched and machine sewed through all layers? Hoping the wax will prevent this belt and braces. Also with the lining fixes is is best to unstitch the outside to open up in the inside to machine sew, or just hand sew a patch on?
 
Allthererriers said:
I’m keen to patch where possible, but is there ever a concern or knowledge that a rug will leak if patched and machine sewed through all layers? Hoping the wax will prevent this belt and braces. Also with the lining fixes is is best to unstitch the outside to open up in the inside to machine sew, or just hand sew a patch on?
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When you are able to do so please pm me if you would like to. I used to do this professionally and was taught properly how to wash and repair. There was no bodge jobs here.
 
I think rugs with full stitched patches are fine usually. But if it's a straight line tear better to stitch together and seal.

It sounds like you are keen to do a good job. Have you thought about how economically viable this is? A straight forward patch might only take 15 minutes but anything where you're unpicking stitching and trying to work through a limited gap will probably take an hour.

My local lady does wash and reproof plus up to 2 repairs for £18. I can't imagine she makes much of a profit.
 
Jambarissa said:
I think rugs with full stitched patches are fine usually. But if it's a straight line tear better to stitch together and seal.

It sounds like you are keen to do a good job. Have you thought about how economically viable this is? A straight forward patch might only take 15 minutes but anything where you're unpicking stitching and trying to work through a limited gap will probably take an hour.

My local lady does wash and reproof plus up to 2 repairs for £18. I can't imagine she makes much of a profit.
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A straight line rip still needs patching to give extra support to prevent pulling apart, unless only a small rip and you are doing a 'get by' fix yourself.

Some repairs, prepping before actually repairing, can take a long time as Jambarissa has mentioned, the customer will generally have no clue about this.

I consider that £18 for wash + proof + 2 repairs is financial suicide. Unless the repairs are only small areas of securing / stitching straps / webbing, binding etc. and is a regular good customer.

The outlay for a 'proper' good quality washing machine new, is eye watering. Many commercial washing machines sold as 'equine suitable ' aren't up to the job as they get to temperature and very soon 'dump the water ' so therefore don't wash anywhere near long enough to get sh***y rugs clean. I have been down that route and then upgraded. A fully programmable machine is way better for the job as you can programme them to wash longer, increase the water level + add extra rinses, hence more costly. Callouts, maintenance and repairs to commercial machines are costly.

The outlay initially to set up with the correct repairing products also adds up. Similar fabrics / webbs / colours makes for a much better professional job when repairing. A long arm walking foot is best for repairing thick rugs, as it's much easier to get rugs flat under the arm and line up the layers. That type of heavy duty sewing machine will chavel up thin fabrics, so ideally 2 sewing machines needed.

ETA of course when washing rugs, there is also the added 'getting them dry ', so a well set up drying room is needed to get the job done quickly as possible. They cannot always be dried and aired off outside. Also a separate area set up to repair and bag up. It all takes up plenty of spaces.
 
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Andie02 said:
A straight line rip still needs patching to give extra support to prevent pulling apart, unless only a small rip and you are doing a 'get by' fix yourself.

Some repairs, prepping before actually repairing, can take a long time as Jambarissa has mentioned, the customer will generally have no clue about this.

I consider that £18 for wash + proof + 2 repairs is financial suicide. Unless the repairs are only small areas of securing / stitching straps / webbing, binding etc. and is a regular good customer.

The outlay for a 'proper' good quality washing machine new, is eye watering. Many washing machines sold as 'equine suitable ' aren't up to the job as they get to temperature and very soon 'dump the water ' so therefore don't wash anywhere near long enough to get sh***y rugs clean. I have been down that route and then upgraded. A fully programmable machine is way better for the job as you can programme them to wash longer, increase the water level + add extra rinses, hence more costly. Callouts, maintenance and repairs to commercial machines are costly.

The outlay initially to set up with the correct repairing products also adds up. Similar fabrics / webbs / colours makes for a much better professional job when repairing. A long arm walking foot is best for repairing thick rugs, as it's much easier to get rugs flat under the arm and line up the layers. That type of heavy duty sewing machine will chavel up thin fabrics, so ideally 2 sewing machines needed.
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My rug wash lady was bemoaning the increase in price of shampoo and waterproofer.
 
I don’t know how to actually do it “properly” as it’s not something I’ve ever done as a job but as a customer any repairer who stitches right through from the outer to the lining gets no repeat business from me! Every repair I’ve had done where they’ve done this has leaked through the stitch holes which is extremely frustrating when the rest of the rug is fully waterproof (perhaps the wax trick mentioned may stop this as none of the ones I had this happen to were waxed).

I tend to do small repairs myself on the outer only and have never had anything I’ve done leak through to lining.
 
Boulty said:
I don’t know how to actually do it “properly” as it’s not something I’ve ever done as a job but as a customer any repairer who stitches right through from the outer to the lining gets no repeat business from me! Every repair I’ve had done where they’ve done this has leaked through the stitch holes which is extremely frustrating when the rest of the rug is fully waterproof (perhaps the wax trick mentioned may stop this as none of the ones I had this happen to were waxed).

I tend to do small repairs myself on the outer only and have never had anything I’ve done leak through to lining.
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That is what reproofing is for. Spraying or sponging on Proofing on the repairs, after repairs have been completed on a turnout rug is the key, and using an extra strength mix, depending on the product used will also help. Also leaking could be as a result of whether 'old tat ' has been used to repair and is not waterproof fabric. Rugs can leak if stitching is not sufficiently proofed on the stitch holes. It is not always practicable to stitch through the outer only by splitting the layers, and not always cost effective. In most cases it is essential to split down the layers by unpicking the binding to repair the lining only.

ETA leaking can also depend on whether the correct sewing machines needles and thread are used.
 
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Hi all, this is all really helpful, thank you! Interesting to hear your experiences. Your local lady must be a very kind person, Jambarissa, that is extremely reasonable! Yes I’d like to do a robust and tidy job, will message you as soon as I’m allowed @Andie02 - appreciate your offer.
 
Allthererriers said:
I’m keen to patch where possible, but is there ever a concern or knowledge that a rug will leak if patched and machine sewed through all layers? Hoping the wax will prevent this belt and braces. Also with the lining fixes is is best to unstitch the outside to open up in the inside to machine sew, or just hand sew a patch on?
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Cremedemonthe (Oz) method should be absolutely fine, he knows what he is doing. Personally I haven't used that method as I always used ' Rug Proof ' to proof over any repairs, even if the customer hadn't requested a Reproof of the rug.

I would suggest that to repair linings it would depend on how good you are at hand sewing and how big the repair is and whereabouts on the rug it is. Your choice really. Definitely do not stitch through the outer of a turnout to repair linings only. Different rules for holes/ rips all the way through all of the layers.
 
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Great I’ll buy RugProof as well and trial them both on my own rugs, see how they go! My hand sewing is okay, it seems a minefield with the different thread sizes and materials, and then getting the needle size right, but practice and experience will help with my confidence and abilities. I always want to be happy that a rug will do its job for an equine, when it leaves here.
 
Allthererriers said:
Great I’ll buy RugProof as well and trial them both on my own rugs, see how they go! My hand sewing is okay, it seems a minefield with the different thread sizes and materials, and then getting the needle size right, but practice and experience will help with my confidence and abilities. I always want to be happy that a rug will do its job for an equine, when it leaves here.
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It is a minefield when you don't know. I can give you lots of tips and advice. Have you actually bought a sewing machine yet ? At least you can gain experience with your own rugs first.
 
Andie02 said:
That is what reproofing is for. Spraying or sponging on Proofing on the repairs, after repairs have been completed on a turnout rug is the key, and using an extra strength mix, depending on the product used will also help. Also leaking could be as a result of whether 'old tat ' has been used to repair and is not waterproof fabric. Rugs can leak if stitching is not sufficiently proofed on the stitch holes. It is not always practicable to stitch through the outer only by splitting the layers, and not always cost effective. In most cases it is essential to split down the layers by unpicking the binding to repair the lining only.

ETA leaking can also depend on whether the correct sewing machines needles and thread are used.
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I had 2 that went to same place (& were cleaned & reproofed there as well but I think that was done before repair & sounds like reproof should have been done after) that were definitely the stitch holes (if it rained enough to wet the rug but not drench it you could see a perfect outline of the stitching appear on the lining ☹️)

Definitely interesting to know there’s several possible causes for it though (& things I could possibly do with the rug I have left with this issue if I ever need to use it again… probably unlikely with current horse as it’s a 200g neck rug and he’s not gone above a 50g this winter despite being fully clipped! Yes I am a rug hoarder)
 
Andie02 said:
It is a minefield when you don't know. I can give you lots of tips and advice. Have you actually bought a sewing machine yet ? At least you can gain experience with your own rugs first.
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Yes I bought a Juke H2 last week, was so keen to get going, the local sewing gear shop recommended (and sold) it to me. It doesn’t have a long arm but is industrial. It works well and I’ve enjoyed getting to grips with it.
 
Boulty said:
I had 2 that went to same place (& were cleaned & reproofed there as well but I think that was done before repair & sounds like reproof should have been done after) that were definitely the stitch holes (if it rained enough to wet the rug but not drench it you could see a perfect outline of the stitching appear on the lining ☹️)

Definitely interesting to know there’s several possible causes for it though (& things I could possibly do with the rug I have left with this issue if I ever need to use it again… probably unlikely with current horse as it’s a 200g neck rug and he’s not gone above a 50g this winter despite being fully clipped! Yes I am a rug hoarder)
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I have to say that I went above and beyond to do a top job.
I think that most rug companies will clean and reproof in their machines, then they will repair, and most probably not proof again, over the repairs.
 
Allthererriers said:
Yes I bought a Juke H2 last week, was so keen to get going, the local sewing gear shop recommended (and sold) it to me. It doesn’t have a long arm but is industrial. It works well and I’ve enjoyed getting to grips with it.
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Long arm walking foot machines are the business. We still have ours as we haven't got round to selling it yet. It's a monster, it has a 30 inch long arm and sits on a 5 foot long table.
 
I always used to repair my rugs and took hours with the sewing machine, patching and reproofing the repaired area. Then I was recommended Stormsure flexible adhesive and never went back. It's fantastic stuff - I would quickly hand sew/tack the repair just to make sure the edges were nearly aligned, then cut a patch from an old rug, apply Stormsure and allow to cure. It's like welding for fabric. 😊
 
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