Saddle suggestions - post kissing spines

[ponyparty]

B has been given the all clear to start ridden work and as luck would have it, I have a friend who is a competent rider who is horseless at the moment. He'll benefit much more from straight line work/hacking/hill work than the endless lunging he's getting at the moment - so, I need to get a saddle sorted! It'll have to be sourced second hand and then fitted to him, I can't afford a bespoke/brand new saddle.

Any opinions on a particular saddle brand/make that is particularly good for horses with history of back issues? He was diagnosed with mild kissing spines earlier this year, managed conservatively through groundwork and lunging in equi ami - his back is now strong and flexible and there is no pain in this region. However, he also has mild hock arthritis; treatment plan is steroid injections and cartrophen - he's still a bit weak in the SI region but hopefully if we resolve the hock issues, this will also come good. If not, SI joint will also be injected further down the line.

I've heard Nick Dolman saddles mentioned a lot in various kissing spines Facebook groups I'm in. If I bought a second hand Nick Dolman saddle, can any saddle fitter adjust it? Or does it have to be Nick? Any other brands that could be suitable?

Horse is a bit of an awkward shape - he's short backed, saddle fitter has previously told me he'll need a 17" saddle; fairly high withered, but then goes quite wide behind the withers. He needs to muscle up across his back and develop more topline - more work will help with this of course. So I don't want a saddle that is going to prevent muscle development, or be difficult to have altered to suit his shape; or to have to change saddle after just a few months; if this is at all possible.

Got saddle fitter booked for in a couple of weeks anyway - just after some trusty HHO opinions, so I can have a look at what's around, gauge what's within my budget and have some ideas to bounce around/questions to ask at fitting appointment.

 

[Nari]

I think in booking a saddle fitter you've started in the right direction, and before they even start I'd talk to them about the kissing spines & where he needs to build up more muscle to support them. I'd then listen to them & go from there.

 

[pansymouse]

Where do you live? Your best bet is Kay Humphries - Nick Dolman saddles are very similar to hers but she is the originator of that family back friendly saddles. I would not recommend getting a Nick Dolman fitted by a fitter other than Nick or Kay.

Kay is my fitter and she is absolutely amazing. She will find a solution to suit your budget and sells a lot of second hand.

 

[Leo Walker]

Where do you live? Your best bet is Kay Humphries - Nick Dolman saddles are very similar to hers but she is the originator of th
at family back friendly saddles. I would not recommend getting a Nick Dolman fitted by a fitter other than Nick or Kay.

Kay is my fitter and she is absolutely amazing. She will find a solution to suit your budget and sells a lot of second hand.

Just be careful with Kay. I have been very quick to recommend her in the past but she caused me a lot of problems last year. I put it down to a one off out of character episode but shes since done the exact same thing to 2 more people I know.

OP if you are looking for a nik/kay/barry saddle my friend has one for sale for something ridiculously cheap like £350! I can put you in touch if you are interested.

 

[sbloom]

My general advice would be to go as flat in the tree as possible and that may mean going down a seat size if that is at all possible for the riders. The rails need to be flat and wide and of course a decent space between panels, the latter is easy to see, the former less so and you will need a good fitter that you trust. I would not go for changeable headplate over a wooden treed saddle unless it's genuinely a better fit, wooden trees offer so many more shapes and choices, can be a more sympathetic fit, and most fitters will adjust them slightly, even if they have to go back to the factory to do so. Quite a few adjust onsite, most wooden trees have scope to be narrowed or widened, and to a very limited extent, both. I would fit with at least a sheepskin shim pad, I like Mattes, the shims will allow you to make (guided) changes yourself if your fitter is happy to work that way. You will need 2-3 monthly checks for quite some time too.

 

[ponyparty]

Thanks for the replies guys!

sbloom - interesting comment re: flat tree. The saddle fitter I've got coming out said earlier this year, when I still had his old saddle, that the saddle was too flat treed for him. He is high withered and, probably due to lack of muscle, has quite a curve behind the withers. Would a flat treed saddle not cause issues again in this situation?
He was previously in a 17.5" and saddle fitter said he needs a 17" - this should be ok but not sure I could go much smaller than that...
Changeable headplate - like a Thorowgood or Wintec I assume? I'm not keen on these anyway tbh.

LW - thanks, I'll pm you for more info.

 

[CurryCombTalesBlog]

Hi, my mare had kissing spine when she was younger (6 years back) and had the operation for it. I have been riding her for about four-five months in a Nick Dolman saddle and she moves so much better in it - it just suits her! Currently waiting on mine to be delivered any day now. I'm told that the saddles are made to be "grown into" in my case (as my mare is developing muscle), so this one will need a pad beneath it until that topline comes along (note that I knew this all before ordering my saddle and testing the other for about a month prior - happy with this). The pad (suggested a pro-lite brand) can then be removed once the muscle builds without interfering with movement or causing pressure points. I had a good look at the two another friend has also before ordering mine, so got to poke and prod first of all.

I had a Bates one before that was gorgeous to sit in but there was something not quite right about it for her and she moved with a shorter, choppier stride and didn't want to step out as much. Although no saddler could point out what was wrong with it for her (they said it fit perfectly), she did not like it and we actually had rears out of her, which is very much out of character. Not a jot of rearing or threats since switching to the Nick Dolman, all fingers still crossed, and seeming much happier overall.

I tried a treeless on her also (as it was slightly cheaper than the Dolman), but she definitely didn't like that and rode as if she was mincing along with tiny, horrible steps - did not like it one bit, although it was a good fit also. I'd recommend not buying a treeless but, if one is available with a fitter, to perhaps try it on and see or trial it (definitely wouldn't buy second hand treeless after this without a trial first with my girl).

I've never been one for a super comfy saddle, always having the old riding school ones in years gone by. I think, personally, I'd rather have a saddle that was less shaped to my backside (except in terms of seat size - although I'm adaptable, I do get lost in an 18 inch saddle!) and designed for rider comfort over horse comfort. I'm more comfortable with her four hooves firmly on the ground! (I think enough time has passed to joke about this one!). I've been very impressed with this one I've had on loan and a little sad to give it up, even though mine will be here very shortly. I have been lucky in this instance to have a very lengthy trial before buying. I know everyone has different opinions but I hope mine has been helpful with regards to my specific horse and case!

 

[sbloom]

Thanks for the replies guys!

sbloom - interesting comment re: flat tree. The saddle fitter I've got coming out said earlier this year, when I still had his old saddle, that the saddle was too flat treed for him. He is high withered and, probably due to lack of muscle, has quite a curve behind the withers. Would a flat treed saddle not cause issues again in this situation?

It's a sliding scale, if you go very curvy there is no flat spot in the rails and nowhere for the horse's back to lift into, so I would fit as flat as the horse can take. Bear in mind tree width and panel shape/length/construction are more often the contributors to a saddle bridging, rather than too flat a tree. Don't fit INTO that lack of muscle, try and fit for the healthy back, and that WILL be flatter. Judicious use of flocking and remedial pads for now.