Safety tips - things you've learned

Train your horse to wait for a small treat when turning out, turn horse to face the gate and only give it once you have taken the headcollar off. i find my horses wait for the treat before exploding! so much better than struggling to get the headcollar off before the horse takes off.
 
Not sure if this has already been mentioned; but always stand to the side of a horse when bending down putting on/ removing boots or picking feet out.....
A friend once stood infront, something made the horse jump, she moved forwards and split her eyebrow open with her knee!
 
Flicker said:
Hack out in a running martingale, even if your horse is good. You have an extra level of control plus a handy neck strap in case of any interesting spooks!
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Unless you are doing a ride which involves opening lots of gates with those handy catches that like to hook onto the straps.
 
Try and make sure that you vary your routine at times, so that if you have to use a different gate/route to the field/stable in an emergency, the horse won't panic about that! Also move things round the yard, we have one who panicked when new things appeared or if things moved, cue lots of bizzar objects in odd places :D
 
Avoid those coiled 'spring' type gates - my boy got one completely entangled in his tail, up the dock and in the hair. Thankfully he didn't panic, and stood stock still while I disentangled it but it took an age and I did think I'd have to cut it out at one point.

Another gate related one - don't ever stick your foot out to push open a gate that's closing on you. After being hauled off my horse over her backside due to my foot and stirrup being caught on a gate bolt, I really don't recommend it!!
 
Dusty85 said:
Not sure if this has already been mentioned; but always stand to the side of a horse when bending down putting on/ removing boots or picking feet out.....
A friend once stood infront, something made the horse jump, she moved forwards and split her eyebrow open with her knee!
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Saying that, I was crouching at the side putting boots on front leg and horse struck forwards with hind leg and nearly got me in the eye with her toe!
 
If a horse barges into you DON'T put up your elbow to push them away. Its a total reflex action but resulted in a dislocated shoulder and muscle damage for me!
 
atun said:
a nice thread at least it could be a place of learning for beginners like me
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Welcome, you are not a beginner, you are a new owner with a want to learn.
 
Hi, just wondering what name of app is?
Red-1 said:
Oooh, I am Mrs Health and Safety!

Never have normal clip leadropes on the place, the clip is too likely to clip onto human or horse. I use the panic release ones, or for leading out and about the sort that is also panic release but you need to swivel it round to do so, so no accidental release. Also no normal length lead ropes, they are the correct length to sweep you underneath if the horse launches upwards.

No normal buckets with bent metal handles, in the yard we have Trugs, and in the box B and Q buckets have no exposed metal to catch on a headcollar.

Have an App on your phone which uses the screen orientation device to detect if you stop moving, and it will text your contact and show them on a map where you are, so they can call you and if you do not answer they can come and find you!

ALWAYS wear High Viz on the road in every weather condition. Even in good light you are SO much more visible.

Have vet number attached to a wall, as well as alternative numbers for transport in case your own lets you down when you need a vet visit! Have the same list in the lorry.

Fire extinguishers, especially in the lorry.

Cross tie when travelling.

NEVER use any kind of a lead rope with elastic. If the horse pulls back, it tensions, and you let go, or if the clip breaks free of the wall, the elastic will cause the metal clip to ping back to the horse, possible blinding him or you.

Always have 2 "things" to stop the horse getting loose onto the road. For instance a stable door and a yard gate. Or in the field we are always double fenced to the road. When leading he has me holding him and a yard gate. If tied in the yard he usually has the tie up and 2 yard gates, but the minimum is the tie up and one yard gate if we are in and out putting jumps in the school or whatever. The only exception is when out with me on the road.

Always have scissors about the place for cutting loose.

Don't keep anything in the stable that should not be there.

Most of all train the horse to not panic. For instance on occasion I have dropped his reins (clumsy mum) and people have screamed at me that he has trodden on his reins. Yep, he has been trained for that. Starting with teaching to be light on the rope, then have me pin the rope to the floor with my foot, then he treads on the rope...... He knows when trapped to stand still and await rescue. I have done this with my past three horses, two of whom were very sharp, and it just stops danger escalating if there is an accident.

He also has learned to stop off a lunge rein around a rear pastern, no panic, a rope pulling around his leg means stop, not try to break loose. That may help if he is ever caught up in something. In fact when he is super fresh he has bucked his back legs over the lunge rein, and as soon as that happens he realises, and his training kicks in, and he slows and stops and awaits rescue.

Similarly I have taught him to pull a barrel, so if he gets caught up on something he will stop, even if it is "chasing him". I did consider teaching him to harrow the school, but he learned the stop and await rescue idea so well when the barrel chases him he...stops and awaits rescue, and I did not want to un-train that. He will also back up with a small barrel tied to his headcollar, and he would much rather stop and await rescue.

I have also done a lot of work with flags, plastic, fitness balls, things going under him, over him the fitness ball can bounce off his head.... he copes with banging bin lids, skipping ropes..... the proof of the pudding came this year when I was plaiting up at the regionals and the barrel I was standing on collapsed and flipped both me and him under his legs in the lorry. I was fully expecting some reaction as the barrel hit him quite hard and I was wrapped round his legs, but he just stood still and awaited rescue....

So, I guess my last one would be if plaiting up in the lorry don't stand on a barrel with the lid on top, as the lid can collapse into the barrel and cause everything to fall under the horse!!!
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V
Dry Rot said:
Make sure you have the curved end of the breast bar on an Ifor Williams 505 on the central partition and the straight end on the outside so the bar can drop down easily if you have to remove the bolts that hold on the outside bracket in an emergency.

Remove the dome headed bolts that attach this bracket that come with the trailer and replace with barrel headed bolts. The domed headed ones can become burred and difficult to undo in a hurry (as I discovered from experience), the barrel headed ones are much better. And don't forget to keep an Allen key for those bolts somewhere in the vehicle.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-x-20-S..._Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item3358c8c233
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We have replaced ours with the eye bolts which I think are standard on the 506 and 511. You can undo them by thread a bar through and spinning it, very quick.
 
Red-1 said:
Oooh, I am Mrs Health and Safety!

Never have normal clip leadropes on the place, the clip is too likely to clip onto human or horse. I use the panic release ones, or for leading out and about the sort that is also panic release but you need to swivel it round to do so, so no accidental release. Also no normal length lead ropes, they are the correct length to sweep you underneath if the horse launches upwards.

No normal buckets with bent metal handles, in the yard we have Trugs, and in the box B and Q buckets have no exposed metal to catch on a headcollar.

Have an App on your phone which uses the screen orientation device to detect if you stop moving, and it will text your contact and show them on a map where you are, so they can call you and if you do not answer they can come and find you!

ALWAYS wear High Viz on the road in every weather condition. Even in good light you are SO much more visible.

Have vet number attached to a wall, as well as alternative numbers for transport in case your own lets you down when you need a vet visit! Have the same list in the lorry.

Fire extinguishers, especially in the lorry.

Cross tie when travelling.

NEVER use any kind of a lead rope with elastic. If the horse pulls back, it tensions, and you let go, or if the clip breaks free of the wall, the elastic will cause the metal clip to ping back to the horse, possible blinding him or you.

Always have 2 "things" to stop the horse getting loose onto the road. For instance a stable door and a yard gate. Or in the field we are always double fenced to the road. When leading he has me holding him and a yard gate. If tied in the yard he usually has the tie up and 2 yard gates, but the minimum is the tie up and one yard gate if we are in and out putting jumps in the school or whatever. The only exception is when out with me on the road.

Always have scissors about the place for cutting loose.

Don't keep anything in the stable that should not be there.

Most of all train the horse to not panic. For instance on occasion I have dropped his reins (clumsy mum) and people have screamed at me that he has trodden on his reins. Yep, he has been trained for that. Starting with teaching to be light on the rope, then have me pin the rope to the floor with my foot, then he treads on the rope...... He knows when trapped to stand still and await rescue. I have done this with my past three horses, two of whom were very sharp, and it just stops danger escalating if there is an accident.

He also has learned to stop off a lunge rein around a rear pastern, no panic, a rope pulling around his leg means stop, not try to break loose. That may help if he is ever caught up in something. In fact when he is super fresh he has bucked his back legs over the lunge rein, and as soon as that happens he realises, and his training kicks in, and he slows and stops and awaits rescue.

Similarly I have taught him to pull a barrel, so if he gets caught up on something he will stop, even if it is "chasing him". I did consider teaching him to harrow the school, but he learned the stop and await rescue idea so well when the barrel chases him he...stops and awaits rescue, and I did not want to un-train that. He will also back up with a small barrel tied to his headcollar, and he would much rather stop and await rescue.

I have also done a lot of work with flags, plastic, fitness balls, things going under him, over him the fitness ball can bounce off his head.... he copes with banging bin lids, skipping ropes..... the proof of the pudding came this year when I was plaiting up at the regionals and the barrel I was standing on collapsed and flipped both me and him under his legs in the lorry. I was fully expecting some reaction as the barrel hit him quite hard and I was wrapped round his legs, but he just stood still and awaited rescue....

So, I guess my last one would be if plaiting up in the lorry don't stand on a barrel with the lid on top, as the lid can collapse into the barrel and cause everything to fall under the horse!!!
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Wow! Thanks for all this. Some excellent advice.
 
When out hacking, be sure that you can describe where you are perfectly at any point. In case of emergency and calling the services, this can be invaluable.

Replace your helmet if you have had a fall, even if the old helmet looks normal from the outside. It will have microscopic cracks (or larger) inside and, in case of another fall, won't be able to protect you anymore.

Trust your intuition if it says to avoid doing something in particular with your horse at any given time. Just trust it. It can save your life one day and you have nothing to prove to anyone.

If you use rope halters, be sure if it's the right fit. If it is too large, the horse can get his jaw over the ropes and stuck, which can result in serious accidents.
 
When opening a gate, never use your foot to push it, seen some horrible accidents like that.

When dismounting, always take both feet out of the stirrups before swinging your leg over. Also, unless the horse is specifically trained for it, never swing your leg over the neck to dismount.
 
Lintel said:
Don't stand between a highland pony and his dinner.

:)
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:lol:

Sleipnir said:
Trust your intuition if it says to avoid doing something in particular with your horse at any given time. Just trust it. It can save your life one day and you have nothing to prove to anyone.
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This times 10,000! The horse that broke my back and left me crippled, I KNEW I was going to come off him and didnt have a good feeling about it. I kept saying his back was sore and should be checked, and then I got on anyway. Some times gut feelings/instinct are powerful things!
 
FrankieCob said:
:lol:



This times 10,000! The horse that broke my back and left me crippled, I KNEW I was going to come off him and didnt have a good feeling about it. I kept saying his back was sore and should be checked, and then I got on anyway. Some times gut feelings/instinct are powerful things!
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This is something that is coming up again and again. I completely agree. Ignore your intuition at your peril. Sadly, sometimes you can think you are being over-cautious or bottling it and go against your better judgement. Forget what you look like and just go with your instinct. It's what prompted the initial post on this thread.
 
They indeed are, FrankieCob! I still remember vividly the day I went out hacking with another livery, and it was such a lovely day that I fought off the unsettling feeling of "we really should stay home, we really should!". Cue a mad driver in a race car coming flying, revving his engine, out of a blind turn and almost hitting us, a mad gallop home on a panicked horse and the idiot by the wheel still following us, grinning and having fun "racing the horse"!
 
If you have any cause to adjust, alter, examine of otherwise deal with electric fence in your horses field- make sure you do so from the same aside as the horse! If a dip in the tape ( or anything else to do with your work) encourages the horse to approach and try to get over the fence he may become entangled. You do NOT want to be swept up in that. Obviously ideally you would remove the horses but sometimes you just want to make a very minor correction and suddenly you look up to find you have attracted the attention of the herd and they are getting boisterous.
 
Never lead a horse with you in between it and electric fencing. If the horse shies towards you, you can be pushed through the fence. I know someone this happened to. Horse pushed her through, panicked and got wrapped up in the fence. Dragged her across field. Leg was skinned and rope went through to the bone. Always make sure horse is between you and the fence.
 
Train all your horses to come when called. It's easy to do and can save you a long walk home if you fall off on a ride.

My horses know that when I say "HO!" it means stop and don't move. I've untangled legs from wire, gotten horses that were just ready to panic to stop long enough for me to calm them and once a small, rotten tree fell across my saddle in front of me when riding in the woods - my horse stopped dead when I said HO and I was able to get off and disentangle us.

Treat every interaction with your horse as a training session. That includes leading back and forth, petting, cleaning hooves, whatever. Insist on proper behavior and manners every time.

Don't give treats to loose horses in shared fields. It just creates problems.
 
Learn your horses' vital signs (normal heart rate, breathing rate, gut sounds, temperature, etc.) and check them routinely. That can save you from a lot of trouble and catch a problem while it's still small. It's also a good idea to keep a cheat sheet around the barn with all the normal vital signs of your horse listed, so that you have a handy list to show your vet for him to compare with the current condition.
 
Not really a safety tip, but I suppose leading is, so, yes….

It helps in teaching a foal to yield-to-pressure/lead to have a piece of stiff rope attached to it's head collar with a few inches dragging on the ground. The foal will step on the rope and learn how to deal with it without panicking. I suspected this might be controversial advice but it has certainly worked on this year's colt foal who was inclined to be a bit spooky with any handling around his head. Obviously, be aware that ropes can tangle so use a nice stiffish one in an area where there's nothing obvious it can get tangled on (which also applies to head collars, of course). But it really did work for me! (A good idea for starting lead training amongst a litter of pups too as they drag each other about in play).
 
Not a direct safety but very necessary. READ YOUR insurance policy carefully and make notes of what you don't understand.

Here are some common gotchas.

Tack is not insured if kept in a public place. Horse at that time time was at a livery/ riding yard. Policy swiftly changed
Tack must be kept in a locked Tackroom with x lock...CHECK YOURS
You are the only rider insured to ride your horse. Hugely important..in theory if someone rides your horse and hurts themself, you "could" be liable. Make them get their own insurance
Tack is not covered if stolen away from premises (I.e show)
Your vet cover and limit (friend changed cover, 6 months later made a claim, hadn't checked cover limit, was hugely out of pocket)
Veterans insurance. Read the vet cover carefully. It invariably just covers external wounds, fair enough as you probslvy wouldn't go down a lengthy route with a much older horse but if yours has just tipped into that category be very clear as to what vet cover you have.
 
Luci07 said:
Not a direct safety but very necessary. READ YOUR insurance policy carefully and make notes of what you don't understand.
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THIS! I work in insurance, used to work for one of the 'main' equine insurers and so many people don't understand what isn't covered under the policy.

Yes you will receive a massive book of terms and conditions but make sure you read them all to understand what you are covered for, what you aren't, what your insurer expects from you and what you can expect from them
 
stormox said:
don't use rugs with clips on the front in fields with wire fences- they can lean over or rub and clips get clipped to fence
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If I do up any clips on a rug - front or leg straps, I always do them up with the clip facing the horse so if they do go to rub on a fence, the back of the clip is against the fence.
 
If you are a solo hacker with an Android or Iphone, download the app "Road ID" as it has a tracking function plus a "stationary alert" so if you don't move for more than 15 mins (ie, fallen in a ditch, unconscious) you can programme it to email or text your nearest and dearest to let them know there is a potential problem.
 
Did think of another when re reading this post. With strong horses they are taught to slow down and stop when I sit down and scratch their neck. Took a while but I did it after being unable to physically pull up at the end of my first BE event on a wildly excited mare. Ok it was probably only 45 seconds or so but felt like a lifetime. Took a while but mare did learn to pull herself up if I did that and have taught all my horses ever since.
 
I have seen people use the thick string that comes on big bales, to tie their horses to, thinking it will break if horse pulls back or panics. It doesn't. Please use proper tie breaks or thin string partially shredded by knife.
 
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