Schooling suggestions to lift the shoulder

stimpy

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I was just looking through photos of me and my boy and I have come to the conclusion that he is not going as well as he used to :-(

Our issue seems to be that I cannot get him to lift his shoulder. He is a sensitive but lazy horse and so I feel like I am the one who has to generate all the energy. I use lots of transitions to get his quarters under him and that works well to a point but he never seems to come up in front. If I'm honest it's not like he's working long and low either, he is long and, well, poking his nose. The feel I get on top is that of riding a downhill horse.

I don't have this problem with my mare who is very forward going.

We do 95% of our schooling out hacking so in that context does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can get him to lift his shoulder?
 
Hiya,

It's difficult to say but here is my impression... sure other people will have plenty to add to this too:

Chances are, that if he is 'pokey nosed' he is not working through the back. Lift from the shoulder can only truely come when a horse is working correctly through his back and remains supple and relaxed.

Just FYI our horses schooling at home (whether they are pure dressage, eventers or jumpers) do not get asked for 'lift' through the shoulder until they are have to work in true collection and extension, usually when they are working at Advanced Medium. When they are young/green they just learn to lighten their forehand through transitions, both between paces and within the pace. Then we start using lateral exercises whilst doing transitions within the pace. This will encourage hind quarters to come more 'underneath'.

We will always work according to the German scales of training: Relaxation, rhythm, contact, impulsion, straightness collection.

If you are after forehand lightening exercises there are plenty, but personally, I would suggest making sure that he is truely supple before you try this, or he will tense against you (especially if he is sensitive, as you say) as soon as you ask him to lighten as he will find it tricky at first. Lots of work on creating an elastic contact and finding a rhythm he is comfortable working it (or pace - some of our horses mainly work in canter as they find it easier). Once these are established, you can then start developing the push from the hindquarters, which will create 'lift' through the shoulders.

I really hope this makes sence to you... if you want exercises for contact and relaxation pls just ask.. think I've rambled on enough now!! :)
 
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My favourite one for this is a walk pirouette then straight into canter.

Either that or lots of walk - canter - walk transitions. But whenever you go into canter go really forward and don't canter for too long because your horse will probably start to go on the forehand again.

Another one is to try cantering in the shape of a square - as if you're riding a mini canter pirouette in each corner because then your horse will have to take weight behind in order to move the front legs around the hind legs. It will also get you using your outside turning aids properly because it will stop you blocking with your inside hand, which in turn blocks the shoulder moving freely as it lifts.
 
My favourite one for this is a walk pirouette then straight into canter.

Either that or lots of walk - canter - walk transitions. But whenever you go into canter go really forward and don't canter for too long because your horse will probably start to go on the forehand again.

Ding! Walk-canter is our favourite transition :-) However, when we go into canter it is a very slooooooooooow canter so I will try to get him much more forward. And yes, the longer the canter goes on the worse it gets so I will concentrate on active short bursts.

Another one is to try cantering in the shape of a square - as if you're riding a mini canter pirouette in each corner because then your horse will have to take weight behind in order to move the front legs around the hind legs. It will also get you using your outside turning aids properly because it will stop you blocking with your inside hand, which in turn blocks the shoulder moving freely as it lifts.

I am ashamed to say that I don't think we could ride square corners in canter, he's not balanced enough :-(

Thank you very much for your suggestions.
 
Hiya,
Chances are, that if he is 'pokey nosed' he is not working through the back. Lift from the shoulder can only truely come when a horse is working correctly through his back and remains supple and relaxed.

Yes, I suppose the feeling of downhillness is exacerbated by it being a slightly tense downhill back.

When they are young/green they just learn to lighten their forehand through transitions, both between paces and within the pace. Then we start using lateral exercises whilst doing transitions within the pace. This will encourage hind quarters to come more 'underneath'.

I guess this is what I have been trying to get with the transitions, a feeling of lightness but it's not really coming. Well, it comes sometimes but not consistently.

Lots of work on creating an elastic contact and finding a rhythm he is comfortable working it (or pace - some of our horses mainly work in canter as they find it easier). Once these are established, you can then start developing the push from the hindquarters, which will create 'lift' through the shoulders.

I really hope this makes sence to you... if you want exercises for contact and relaxation pls just ask.. think I've rambled on enough now!! :)

Yes please to the exercises for contact and relaxation :-)

(I don't think there's been any rambling just hugely helpful advice, thank you.)
 
OK - firstly make sure that he is 'taking' you forward in the pace, which ever one you and he are most comfortable and balanced in. I often teach this exercise in the walk initially so that the rider can get a feel for the horse responding, without having to worry about balance themselves. Some horses, however, have a weak walk (struggle to keep 4 time) and will therefore struggle to do this in the walk so suggest trot for most people. The main thing is that you can feel what is going on underneath you and through the reins. When I ride I make sure that my fingers never stop moving around the rein; not huge movements, just sponging, small twitches and niggles - the contact stays alive so the horse begins to think about the contact.

The contact should feel 'elastic' - no firm resistance where you have to use undue force to 'make' them give and should yield when you put pressure on it, but should also slide gently back into position (straight) when you release the pressure and not snatch it back.

Begin by assessing how flexible and elastic he is - does he feel very heavy in the hand if you ask for a small flexion through the rein? Does he go crooked and try throw his hind quarters in the opposite direction to the flexion? Does he tilt his head to avoid true flexion through the base of the neck and poll areas?

If the answer to any of the above are 'yes', contact and flexibility need to be worked on through little flexions like this:

Riding in the pace you have chosen, make sure that you can keep your leg around him - remember that for everything that the hand is doing, the leg should be there, ready to 'over ride' the hand - the key is to be moving freely forward (not fast).

Start by asking for a small inside flexion (I don't like to use the term 'bend' here as it implies a large movement, these need to be quick, small, loosening movements) and as soon as he gives to you (i.e. softens) you must be quick and gentle to give back to him - release the pressure, keep the leg on him and praise. However, throughout the whole exercise, both reins must have a contact on the horse's mouth, so that you are not just using the one rein, or he will start to fall out through his shoulder. Repeat this exercise with outside flexion too. Once he gives consistently, without throwing his quarters one way or the other, you should progress to working on different shapes in the school if possible - serpentines are really good for this as there are obviously quite a few changes in direction required. Hacking does also work as different terrain etc will give him something else to think about and a chance for you to play with the bend.

The term 'inside leg to outside hand' rings particularly true here.

Really important - make shure that you do not go straight from one flexion to another (i.e. do not swing his head from one side to the other) without taking him straight in the neck first.

Once he remains soft to flex and does not fight it, at least in walk and trot, for many different shapes in the school or consistently out hacking, you can then think about forehand lightening exercises...

Make sure that he remains soft and relaxed in every exercise you do. Remember that if you do not have an elastic contact, you need to go back to the initial flexion work before attempting anything more advanced.

To lighten the forehand begin in the walk and collect him into a small walk, making sure that he remains soft and flexible. Then ask the walk bigger and more open and then repeat, closing the walk then opening it up again until he is going off your aids consistently and remaining soft and relaxed with it.

Do the same in the trot and canter. Make the difference bigger, more dramatic. Introduce this into your hill work (up hill) if possible. But he must stay soft and relaxed. Once he can do all these things and remain soft, then think about the canter/walk/canter transitions, lateral work etc. But the key to a slightly downhill horse is in the contact in my experience; if they won't accept the contact and give when you ask, you are fighting a losing battle.

Phew.. that was a long one (not got a lot to do at work today!).. if you need anything explaining please just ask :)
 
... I just have to add, THANK YOU Ali16, that was amazingly helpful as I have the same difficulties with my lad :rolleyes:

Thanks again for posting that!! :)
 
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