JBM
Well-Known Member
Okie so this sounds stupid. Do I know you clean tack then use leather soap and you can then condition it but what is balm for? And what order do you guys do everything?
Tack cleaning
- Thread starter JBM
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teddy_
Well-Known Member
Warm water for a good scrub to loosen any grease, followed by saddle soap and if necessary, a conditioning product at the end.
Oiling clean tack every now and then goes a long way too.
ETA: some people use balms every time they clean their tack, but I find this makes things too damn sticky. A higher quality saddle soap such as Carr & Day & Martin does have conditioning properties.
Oiling clean tack every now and then goes a long way too.
ETA: some people use balms every time they clean their tack, but I find this makes things too damn sticky. A higher quality saddle soap such as Carr & Day & Martin does have conditioning properties.
JBM
Well-Known Member
Had mold on my tack so was told to get a saddle soap without glycerine but Carr & Day & Martin is what I usually use thank you
teddy_
Well-Known Member
I also rate the Stübben tack cleaning products if you fancied trying something else
!
JBM
Well-Known Member
This is what I’m looking at so far but I’ll take a look at those!I also rate the Stübben tack cleaning products if you fancied trying something else
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teddy_
Well-Known Member
The Lincoln stuff is good, this could work well to combat mould as it's quite dense.
JBM
Well-Known Member
Thank you very much!
MuddyMonster
Well-Known Member
IME mould comes off with regular tack cleaner.
I use CD&M step 1 tack cleaner followed by the CDM basalm on my saddle.
I use CD&M step 1 tack cleaner followed by the CDM basalm on my saddle.
JBM
Well-Known Member
Is there a difference in CDM leather oil and neatfoot oil
cremedemonthe
Well-Known Member
Have a go at making you own
Oz
Oz
sbloom
Well-Known Member
Stickiness comes mostly from saddle soap but adding conditioner/balm (broadly the same things) will be overload if you're doing it often. Ditch the soap (it's a humectant, not an actual conditioner, and not a great cleanser), ditch the oil apart from for old, dry leather - there's nothing about the ingredients that actually benefits leather (and can actually be harmful) and use a good conditioner, as required, after cleaning with hand-hot water and a good old fashioned cotton dishcloth. The latter has just the right texture to get dirt off and prevent grease jockeys.
If you wipe off as often as possible and do this very roughly every two weeks your leather will be very thankful. I use and recommend Oz's conditioner, Sedgwick is pretty good, and I know have new ones with my Ergox2 brand that I'm playing with. There IS a difference in what different leathers need - continental and calf leathers will need different treatment to English butt leather (the thick stuff that flaps are made out of) and are likely to need a lighter product.
If you wipe off as often as possible and do this very roughly every two weeks your leather will be very thankful. I use and recommend Oz's conditioner, Sedgwick is pretty good, and I know have new ones with my Ergox2 brand that I'm playing with. There IS a difference in what different leathers need - continental and calf leathers will need different treatment to English butt leather (the thick stuff that flaps are made out of) and are likely to need a lighter product.
sbloom
Well-Known Member
Oz (cremedemonthe) has a great info sheet on getting rid of mould from saddles, the spores get into the crevices so it's very difficult to get rid of it completely, and using all your regular stuff on mould will transfer spores elsewhere. A thicker waxier product shouldn't feed mould like glycerine does but equally unless there are added antifungals it's going to do nothing to stop the mould growth.
Mould removal best done outside and carefully!
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windand rain
Well-Known Member
I use homemade recipe supplied bt creme de menthe it has made a huge difference especially to my old stuff and although it lives outside it rarely gets mouldy and if it does it is tiny amount of white none of the nasty green stuff
terrierliz
Well-Known Member
Have a go at making you own
Oz
Is there a easy recipe….please
Annagain
Well-Known Member
Buy Oz's leather conditioner and follow the instructions he sends with it. Every time my saddler comes he compliments me on the care I take of my tack. I don't really take much care of it at all, just wash it in hot water and fairy liquid, rinse it well, leave it to dry then condition it thoroughly about 3 times a year.
He's not allowed to give you the link so I will: Unicorn Leather Saddlery est 1988
He's not allowed to give you the link so I will: Unicorn Leather Saddlery est 1988
JBM
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately I’m in Ireland so I can’t buy it rn with all that’s going on hopefully whenever it’s available tho I will
Annagain
Well-Known Member
In that case ask him for the recipe (he gives it to people if asked) and make your own.
JBM
Well-Known Member
Was chatting to him thank you
blitznbobs
Well-Known Member
Sorry what is this ”tack cleaning” people speak of?
Cob Life
Well-Known Member
I spoke to my saddler as I’m trying to restore some very old saddles and he recommended:
1) wipe with warm water mixed with a tiny bit of washing up liquid
2) a leather balm
3) neatsfoot oil
Bare in mind his was for tack that hasn’t been used and has lived in an attic for 15 years! So it was very dry and dusty
1) wipe with warm water mixed with a tiny bit of washing up liquid
2) a leather balm
3) neatsfoot oil
Bare in mind his was for tack that hasn’t been used and has lived in an attic for 15 years! So it was very dry and dusty
mini_b
Well-Known Member
Does a bit of vinegar in hot water get rid of mould?
cremedemonthe
Well-Known Member
I've had several people ask me for the tack cleaning article included in that is a link to the mould section and it also has the recipe in that article to have a go at making your own.
So, with the risk of being banned!!
Here it is, DO have a go at making it, it's not hard to do, good luck, Oz
https://www.unicornleather.co.uk/leather_conditioning_and_cleaning.html
So, with the risk of being banned!!
Here it is, DO have a go at making it, it's not hard to do, good luck, Oz
https://www.unicornleather.co.uk/leather_conditioning_and_cleaning.html
MuddyMonster
Well-Known Member
Gloi
Too little time, too much to read.
I went on a course once and the instructor said "if you have time to clean your horse's tack you aren't riding it enough," ?
spacefaer
Well-Known Member
I'm always amazed at the number of people who never touch their tack - just put it on and use it from new. The amount of second hand tack I've bought that is lightly used, stiff as a board and covered in grease from the coat (so they obviously don't groom much either!)
A clean, soft piece of leather bridlework is a thing of beauty
A clean, soft piece of leather bridlework is a thing of beauty
rabatsa
Confuddled
This thread is reminding me that I should really go through all my stored tack and feed it.
sbloom
Well-Known Member
I would change the order, oil then balm, as oil sinks in further and is thinner (same as with skin care, runniest first, most solid last), but I'd only use the oil if the leather was actually really dried out. Balm/conditioner contains wax which is the ultimate waterproofer so would seal out the oil, and obviously should go on last.
sbloom
Well-Known Member
It's really interesting how different leather is - continental calf leather barely needs anything on it, but it won't last anywhere near as long as well-cared for English thick leathers. The latter MUST be looked after well especially in the first few weeks/months, building up a weatherproof and mark resistant patina on it as well as feeding it. Those early days are crucial and it too breaks my heart when I go back out at month 2-3 and see a dry saddle. I even give a pot of conditioner with every saddle!
The Xmas Furry
🦄 🦄
Something I do regularly, wipe over after every use and strip once a week.
I consider it as a full safety check, after all - it's my life on the line if a rein breaks, or girth stitching goes etc etc.
Having seen some revolting tack and filthy saddle pads at a recent training event, I was gobsmacked at how some take out their animals. Maybe I'm too 'queen of clean' but I wouldn't dream of boxing out with grimy kit.
A friend of mine used to very rarely clean her tack till about 2 years ago. Her stirrup leather went and she came off in quite a nasty way. On looking, the stitches had completely gone on both. She now checks and cleans regularly.
windand rain
Well-Known Member
I clean my tack with warm water with fairy about once a month and use the creme de menthe home made stuff to condition it in between cleans I wipe down with a warm cloth when used cannot say the same for my sharers as I often find it very mucky