Foxy O
Well-Known Member
You used to be able to get electronic back bars, that you could just press a button on a remote control and they would close automaticly. Can you still get them?
Trailer..loading issue..putting rear bar up when on your own
- Thread starter HoHum
- Start date
soloequestrian
Well-Known Member
Look at this thread http://www.horseandhound.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?647885-Difficult-loader - my invited post is the last one. I don't know if this is classed as advertising - I hope not!
philamena
Well-Known Member
I don't use rope halters so it may not be poss, but if you get them lined up right, could you put one over a normal headcollar and then clip the rope onto the normal headcollar, leaving the rope halter on until it's safe to take off? Alternatively the automatic rear bars mentioned later sound amazing, if they still exist!
Alyth
Well-Known Member
One of the things that Parelli teaches brilliantly is float (trailer) loading. I stand at the ramp, point arm into float, pony walks on, stands still, I do up bum bar, lift and fasten ramp. Walk round to the front and pull 12' line into section in front of breast bar. Close front door, get into towing vehicle, start up and drive off....every time. No fuss. 2 horses just the same...
Vodkagirly
Well-Known Member
I have a difficult loader, I have found with practise he has got a lot better at standing once on. I have 2 leadropes tied up which I clip to his headcollar, give him a couple of extra strong mints and nip around to put the bar on. Normally works ok. If he is up a height and I suspect issues I usually ask anyone standing near to put the bar up and keep shovelling the mints in.
HoHum
Well-Known Member
The automatic bars sound like a fantastic idea and I've had a quick google, but didn't find them and fear they may be very expensive. Solo equestrian's loading system looks interesting, but not sure how it persuades him not to go backwards when I am not at this head, same thing really with the one on ebay.
Several people have commented that it is this stage of loading, rather than just getting up the ramp that is where most accidents occur and I can see why that is the case. I will persevere, but it is overcoming his attitude when away from home that I think I will struggle with even if he became as well trained as Alyth's horses!
Several people have commented that it is this stage of loading, rather than just getting up the ramp that is where most accidents occur and I can see why that is the case. I will persevere, but it is overcoming his attitude when away from home that I think I will struggle with even if he became as well trained as Alyth's horses!
alsxx
Well-Known Member
My mare would load into the trailer, I'd tie her up and she would very casually start going backwards as I would frantically dash to the back to get the bar up in time before she sauntered backwards down the ramp (this was when I was by myself).
I would load her with a bucket of feed tied to the front bar so she would shove her head in and eat whilst I put the bar up. I also spent some time with her just loading and walking straight out the front, then in, stand for a bit, then walk off the front, until she knew she went forwards not backwards. She has always travelled and loaded fine, but cheeky so and so worked out if I wasn't quick enough she could saunter backwards!
I would load her with a bucket of feed tied to the front bar so she would shove her head in and eat whilst I put the bar up. I also spent some time with her just loading and walking straight out the front, then in, stand for a bit, then walk off the front, until she knew she went forwards not backwards. She has always travelled and loaded fine, but cheeky so and so worked out if I wasn't quick enough she could saunter backwards!
Goldenstar
Well-Known Member
I just train all my horses to walk into the trailer on their own , I stay on the ramp and pop up the breeching I have to teach this as I often load two horses on my own .
If they learn to load like this from the start you never have an issue .
If they learn to load like this from the start you never have an issue .
soloequestrian
Well-Known Member
The harness is designed so that you clip the horse onto the front bar once its in the trailer, so if it backs up as you leave its head, it feels pressure behind it. If the horse actually panicks, the harness will break, but under normal circumstances it the pressure (of a web strap) plenty to allow you to calmly get around to the rear of the trailer and do up the breech bar.
Annagain
Well-Known Member
Not read all the answers so apologies if i'm repeating but I have had this exact problem - to leave the yard. He loads himself to come home or if he has company on board, which also means I have company to help me when I don't need it
He would go on, but the second I left his head, whether he was tied up or not he shot backwards.
I've tried a lot of the suggestions on here with varying levels of success.
I tried not using string (just until he was on) so it wouldn't snap and tying him straight to the tie ring and he snapped the lead rope
The lunge line over breast bar resulted in one bent breast bar and one broken lunge line, he worked out what I was doing and just pulled backwards until something gave
He's not stressed at this, you can almost see the smug grin on his face
I hook a normal over the door bucket (the semi circular sort with the two black square hooks) over the breast bar (this is quite good as it swings a lot so he really has to focus on the food) and while he's eating I go down the other side of the trailer (I leave the bars on the opposite side open so I can shoot down the side quickly) and put the back up, talking to him the whole time. I use a lunge line but just hold on to it, so that IF he does go backwards I have time to react and I still have hold of him, he can't run away. I keep hold of it as I go down the trailer but don't pull it tight. Once I've got the back up I unclip the lunge line and clip the leadrope I leave there permanently on and then close up the ramps.
I looked into the bars that you could pull up front and back at the same time, they were called TUI Bars. not sure of they're still in business but you might find one second hand? They had the added benefit of a quick release system you could activate from the outside in the event of a horse getting stuck. They were about £200 if I remember correctly. I didn't get one as the bucket over the breast bar worked for a fraction of the price
The best prevention method however is using my friend's Equi Trek - a bit of an expensive solution though
He would go on, but the second I left his head, whether he was tied up or not he shot backwards. I've tried a lot of the suggestions on here with varying levels of success.
I tried not using string (just until he was on) so it wouldn't snap and tying him straight to the tie ring and he snapped the lead rope
The lunge line over breast bar resulted in one bent breast bar and one broken lunge line, he worked out what I was doing and just pulled backwards until something gave
He's not stressed at this, you can almost see the smug grin on his face
I hook a normal over the door bucket (the semi circular sort with the two black square hooks) over the breast bar (this is quite good as it swings a lot so he really has to focus on the food) and while he's eating I go down the other side of the trailer (I leave the bars on the opposite side open so I can shoot down the side quickly) and put the back up, talking to him the whole time. I use a lunge line but just hold on to it, so that IF he does go backwards I have time to react and I still have hold of him, he can't run away. I keep hold of it as I go down the trailer but don't pull it tight. Once I've got the back up I unclip the lunge line and clip the leadrope I leave there permanently on and then close up the ramps.
I looked into the bars that you could pull up front and back at the same time, they were called TUI Bars. not sure of they're still in business but you might find one second hand? They had the added benefit of a quick release system you could activate from the outside in the event of a horse getting stuck. They were about £200 if I remember correctly. I didn't get one as the bucket over the breast bar worked for a fraction of the price
The best prevention method however is using my friend's Equi Trek - a bit of an expensive solution though
Tiddlypom
Carries on creakily
I use Goldenstar's method ie sending them up the ramp and into the trailer on their own. I was shown how to do it by a *whispers and ducks* parelli trainer. It's so much easier and safer.
I believe that the bars that lifted and dropped remotely were called Tui bars. I did look into them once (as dealing with a claustrophobic mare) but then got help from the parelli bod. They sounded like a good idea but they didn't stay on the market for long.
I believe that the bars that lifted and dropped remotely were called Tui bars. I did look into them once (as dealing with a claustrophobic mare) but then got help from the parelli bod. They sounded like a good idea but they didn't stay on the market for long.
Landcruiser
Well-Known Member
The Tui bars were endorsed by Hampshire fire service. They used to have a website, but it was tricky to navigate, and the product was badly advertised - or not advertised - and they went out of business. I thought the product was great - if rather expensive at about £200+ per stall (so well over £400 for both sides of the trailer).
Could someone explain HOW to get the horse to load while staying on the ramp please? I know that lots of western horses do this.
Could someone explain HOW to get the horse to load while staying on the ramp please? I know that lots of western horses do this.
Goldenstar
Well-Known Member
This is how I do it not saying its right or wrong it's just what I do .
I practise and train them to do it daily before I travel them .
I have an IW trailer so I park the trailer the yard it has a mild slope so I park it so the petition will stay across without me pinning it back this is easier and quicker when you are getting it together .
All my horses know that the rattle of a noisy bag means a tasty treat so I will have taught before this point that say standing or backing up when told may result in the bag being rattled and a treat.
I then but a groom in the front of the trailer with a bag I lead the horse in say stand when the horse stands the groom rattles the bag give a treat while I do up the back.
I then repeat this time I put the rope over the horses neck and lead it as far as I can the groom rattles the bag and 90% of them will walk forward themselves to get the treat which they only get after I have given the stand command I then do up the back .
It does not take long until they are walking in with me staying on the ramp .
At this point I put the groom outside the jockey door and send the horse in she will pop in and rattle and give the treat if needed but at that point I am aiming to say stand and do up the back then go forward and give lots of fuss and treats .
I always reserve them out I never use the front unload I hate them.
So I teach them to go back when I tap their quarter twice and say back.
With young horses I just use a head collar if they have never leant to be naughty they rarely are and lessons are short perhaps one loading am and pm , with older naughty horses I will use a bridle and the lessons are longer and have more the tone of that's what we do I am not conducting a negotiation .
Mistakes like backing up with can happen and are just ignored and we start again the atmosphere is very level but I keep going till I get what I want .
Of course I do need the second person in the first few loadings but before long I am ptactising it alone .
I do however always have the basic voice commands and the understanding what a rattle of the bag means in place before I start .
I always give a treat for loading ,a high value one that they like no matter how good or experianced they are they get a reward for loading .
They all practically run into the trailer in fact their so keen to load I have watch them for getting in before we want them to.
I also am very careful that the first few trips away from home are nice unrushed experiances for young ones if it's at all possible .
I practise and train them to do it daily before I travel them .
I have an IW trailer so I park the trailer the yard it has a mild slope so I park it so the petition will stay across without me pinning it back this is easier and quicker when you are getting it together .
All my horses know that the rattle of a noisy bag means a tasty treat so I will have taught before this point that say standing or backing up when told may result in the bag being rattled and a treat.
I then but a groom in the front of the trailer with a bag I lead the horse in say stand when the horse stands the groom rattles the bag give a treat while I do up the back.
I then repeat this time I put the rope over the horses neck and lead it as far as I can the groom rattles the bag and 90% of them will walk forward themselves to get the treat which they only get after I have given the stand command I then do up the back .
It does not take long until they are walking in with me staying on the ramp .
At this point I put the groom outside the jockey door and send the horse in she will pop in and rattle and give the treat if needed but at that point I am aiming to say stand and do up the back then go forward and give lots of fuss and treats .
I always reserve them out I never use the front unload I hate them.
So I teach them to go back when I tap their quarter twice and say back.
With young horses I just use a head collar if they have never leant to be naughty they rarely are and lessons are short perhaps one loading am and pm , with older naughty horses I will use a bridle and the lessons are longer and have more the tone of that's what we do I am not conducting a negotiation .
Mistakes like backing up with can happen and are just ignored and we start again the atmosphere is very level but I keep going till I get what I want .
Of course I do need the second person in the first few loadings but before long I am ptactising it alone .
I do however always have the basic voice commands and the understanding what a rattle of the bag means in place before I start .
I always give a treat for loading ,a high value one that they like no matter how good or experianced they are they get a reward for loading .
They all practically run into the trailer in fact their so keen to load I have watch them for getting in before we want them to.
I also am very careful that the first few trips away from home are nice unrushed experiances for young ones if it's at all possible .
Dry Rot
Well-Known Member
This ^^^^. Excellent post.
My only grumble being that a treat for performing a task is not a treat but a reward!
My only grumble being that a treat for performing a task is not a treat but a reward!
kathantoinette
Well-Known Member
I used to do this with my trailer. It worked for me.
HoHum
Well-Known Member
Did a little practising today, and I envy all those who say teach them to load themselves. He might walk up to the front bar on his own, but in the time it takes to get the full width bar into the holder on each side, he has reversed out. We tried tying him before going back to his rump, but even with being tied to a full piece of baler twine he relatively calmly walks backwards, snapping it, or his leather head collar.
I tried the food bucket hanging at front of the trailer but even though he's normally very food orientated, it didn't hold his attention.
I assume it is his adrenalin levels that seem to put any training I have done previously out the window. So what might work at home doesn't work when trying to load on way back from hunting for instance.
More practice tomorrow. Lots of praise when he loads and stands and just keep re-loading each time he backs out quickly, but I'm not sure whether to work on getting him to stay on when not tied, or to tie him and hope he gets bored before he breaks the last of my headcollars..
Suggestions gratefully received
I tried the food bucket hanging at front of the trailer but even though he's normally very food orientated, it didn't hold his attention.
I assume it is his adrenalin levels that seem to put any training I have done previously out the window. So what might work at home doesn't work when trying to load on way back from hunting for instance.
More practice tomorrow. Lots of praise when he loads and stands and just keep re-loading each time he backs out quickly, but I'm not sure whether to work on getting him to stay on when not tied, or to tie him and hope he gets bored before he breaks the last of my headcollars..
Suggestions gratefully received
Tiddlypom
Carries on creakily
It took a fair few sessions to get my claustrophobic mare to stay calmly in the trailer. We didn't tie her up or put the breech bar across, and if she wanted to back out swiftly, we let her. Like yours, if we had tied her up, she would break free and come hurtling back down the ramp anyway.
She had previously been shoved in the trailer by the old school method of a RI using a broom up her bum. It got her in the once, but created a real confidence issue.
After a while, she got her confidence back, and stayed in the trailer for longer periods. She now loads herself, and stays put, but we have come to an arrangement that I will always travel her with a companion. She has agreed to this compromise!
If anyone was to try and force her in, she would be straight up on her hind legs, as she genuinely dislikes travelling, but she will cope as long we are fair to her.
I would just carry on with training sessions. Always think that you have plenty of time! If you have a deadline, it puts pressure on and makes things more complicated!
(I also changed the old Rice Europa trailer to an Ifor 510, which is much bigger and brighter inside.)
She had previously been shoved in the trailer by the old school method of a RI using a broom up her bum. It got her in the once, but created a real confidence issue.
After a while, she got her confidence back, and stayed in the trailer for longer periods. She now loads herself, and stays put, but we have come to an arrangement that I will always travel her with a companion. She has agreed to this compromise!
If anyone was to try and force her in, she would be straight up on her hind legs, as she genuinely dislikes travelling, but she will cope as long we are fair to her.
I would just carry on with training sessions. Always think that you have plenty of time! If you have a deadline, it puts pressure on and makes things more complicated!
(I also changed the old Rice Europa trailer to an Ifor 510, which is much bigger and brighter inside.)
Echo Bravo
Well-Known Member
Well I'm glad I'm not the only one with loading problems, as it's my youngster, we spent weeks loading and unloading him, but never took him for a very short drive round the field, as my hubby didn't think it was nessasary, took ages to load him, couldn't tie him up each time he would panic rear break leadrope clip. We did get him to load happily in the end as he had to the vets for op to find retained testicle, took us 15 mins to put trailer on car and get him loaded and when we went to pick him up 2 days later after 1 broken lead rope 2 broken lunge lines and 1 broken headcollar and 1 hour and 20 mins later we got him loaded and on the way home, so come the summer I shall start loading him yet again and this time short drive round field. But will use method I'd used many years ago on bad loaders lunge line through metal hoop, through grooms door so I'm standing next to him and as he walks in I tighten lunge line, if he panics and comes out backwards I'm standing there to talk to him and when he does go finally in across comes the back bar. I no longer listen to my Hubby go with what I should have done your gut feeling.
go with what I should have done your gut feeling.