two lead outs from one terminal on mains fencer - ok?

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Perce

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I am planning mains electric fencing.
I know I will need to attach lead out wire to the terminal and take this to where the electric rope/tape starts but I would like to take it to two different start points as I want to send a line out to fence the smaller winter paddock and a longer fence line for the rest of the paddocks.
My 6 acres is separated into several smaller paddocks.
The two separate 'lead outs' will go to different 'loops' that won't meet anywhere in the fields.

SO I wondered if it is ok to attach both lead out wires to the same terminal on the fencing unit.?????
I will probably go for a Copel M7 mains energiser.
 
Yes but you will probably need an earth for each fence or the power may drop off towards the ends of the fences
 
ok thanks.
do I need a special 'dubree' to attach both wires?

and how close to the energizer does the earth need to be ?

and can the earths be near/next to each other? or . if not, how far apart must they be?

so many questions!!!
 
If you get two red crocodiles and unscrew the 'kn0b' and place both end rings on the post thing. Usually you have an earth coming off the green terminal (ideally it should be about 1m deep) but if the fence is long you put another at the furthest point from the energiser. If you have two fences you will probably need two further earth rods, one for each fence.

I find when the weather is wet simply clipping the green clip to the metal prong of an electric fence post is enough, in the summer you will probably need a proper rod.
 
of course the green terminal goes to he earth - long weekend and a bump to the head (thanks Ned!) leaving me with a large egg and black eye means I am not thinking straight!
I have done battery fencing for years so have a fairly good understanding of that, but the move to permanent mains is requiring quite some planning in my field set up. I have a lot of metal gates to avoid or cross!

I also have a pylon going over and other electricity poles crossing.
 
Perce said:
I have done battery fencing for years so have a fairly good understanding of that, but the move to permanent mains is requiring quite some planning in my field set up. I have a lot of metal gates to avoid or cross!
Click to expand...

It was a bit of a novicey question, so I answered basically - sorry if I offended but as you didn't put your previous experience I had to assume it was none.

To avoid gates you can get insulated wires that you will need to dig trenches to bury them. Make sure they are deep enough that if the ground gets churned up you aren't risking the horses breaking them. I use blue tubing for extra protection.
 
sorry Fides, no offense taken at all.
I have never used a mains fencer before and wasn't sure if you had to limit yourself to one lead out wire from the terminal or whether you could attach more than one wire? or if some fencers had separate terminals for more than one wire. I can't really tell on the images I have found.
With so many gates to cross it is proving quite a project!

I believe I can use the same lead out wire (the insulated stuff) to go under the gates - buried as you suggest. I have some blue tubing that I was going to use left over from water works. But what do you so with the ends? Ideally I assume you don't want them to fill with water. My farrier suggested heating them and then they bend! Do you bring the tube up the posts to meet the rope/tape or terminate the tube at ground level and come up posts with just the wire?

I am trying to sort the real practicalities of each gate crossing and post attachment now. I plan to use polyrope. - in a one line along the top of my post and rail and in 2 lines where no rails.
 
Perce said:
sorry Fides, no offense taken at all.
I have never used a mains fencer before and wasn't sure if you had to limit yourself to one lead out wire from the terminal or whether you could attach more than one wire? or if some fencers had separate terminals for more than one wire. I can't really tell on the images I have found.
With so many gates to cross it is proving quite a project!

I believe I can use the same lead out wire (the insulated stuff) to go under the gates - buried as you suggest. I have some blue tubing that I was going to use left over from water works. But what do you so with the ends? Ideally I assume you don't want them to fill with water. My farrier suggested heating them and then they bend! Do you bring the tube up the posts to meet the rope/tape or terminate the tube at ground level and come up posts with just the wire?

I am trying to sort the real practicalities of each gate crossing and post attachment now. I plan to use polyrope. - in a one line along the top of my post and rail and in 2 lines where no rails.
Click to expand...

I've just had a quick look at some of the electric fencing supplier's pages. They do make it look awfully complicated (and expensive!), don't they?

You can take as many lead outs from the live terminal of your energiser as you want, it won't make any difference. Earthing depends on your soil. I think I have one earth stake at the moment and that works fine, but I've a high water table and more would be better, I'll fix that when I have time. I have used 2.5mm high tensile galvanised steel wire for my permanent electric fencing for over 20 years. Of course, it is very hard to see so I attach white tape to it with cable ties every few metres. Even though the ponies have (very rarely) gone through it, I've never had a problem with anyone getting tangled. The tape last a surprisingly long time, even in the Scottish Highlands. Just leave a bit extra at the ends and don't tighten the cable ties too much and, if the tape breaks, just join it up again with a simple over hand knot and re-tighten! That is a pretty cheap option. If you use cheap white tape, just use more cable ties to support it.

To take electric wires across gateways, I use the same galvanised steel wire, thread it through some alkathene water pipe, and just bury the pipe about a foot deep under the gateway. Bend the ends of the pipe over at the ends and secure to the gate post with some wire and staples. You can use insulated cable if you prefer but the water pipe is really sufficient insulation even if it fills with water so long as it hasn't got any holes in it. I also use a single strand of wire on offsets to existing normal stock fencing (seven strands of plain wire) just to stop ponies rubbing. On flat ground with a secure straining post either end, it is surprising how far apart you can put your posts. Mine are mostly 30 metres apart with droppers at 10 metres, so it works out a very cheap fence once you've got your energiser. I used to sell the stuff (briefly!) so I know a bit about it.
 
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thanks Dry rot. lot of useful information. just need to crack on and start it now!
Will take me a while to set up I reckon as doing it myself but am hoping it will save me wasting hours of time chasing mares out of the wrong paddock and fixing ripped tape!
 
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