Very scared horse

You don’t know me, you don’t know my experience or the resources I have available to me, so to assume this is very judgemental of you, especially as a “horse expert”. I have looked through your “recent activity” it looks as if you comment on threads looking to belittle and victimise people, there are multiple posts where people have had to tell you to stop as you’re being unkind, if that’s the type of person you would like to portray then continue as you are. If your knowledge is as great as your ego I would love to know why you aren’t training horses 24/7 and have so much time on your hands to post over 100 comments a week on a horse forum. Leo Walker isn’t somebody I have ever heard of before in the showing world, and if you are as great as you make out, you are slowly ruining your reputation through an online platform. Goodnight Leo, hope you have fun training your thousands of youngsters in the morning

Oh dear, oh dear. You do know that people don't use their real name on forums don't you? I think I've posted over 10,000 times on this forum, and that's nowhere near being the most amount. I am very sorry if that made it hard for you to dig up things on me. There are not any posts where people have told me to be unkind s far as I'm aware. I have absolutely nothing to do with showing although in the dim and distant past did do a season for a show producer. Its really not for me

I also dont take on feral youngsters anymore and haven't for years now as I'm old, fat and crippled. But I have done and know how easy it is if you know what your doing, and how easy it is to completely screw it up if you dont.

Its not unkind to tell someone they are out of their depth. You know you are. You cant touch this pony and you are concerned. You have tried several things, most stupid, and now you are stumped. So please do tell me how you arent out of your depth?

My advice to rehome the pony still stands. Clearly that's not palatable. So option 2 is to invest large sums of money in having the right sort of professional sort this out for you. There is still an enormous risk that the pony wont do the job you wanted it for, but that's your issue not mine.
 
I have done this loads of times mostly with welsh section d foals from brightwells sales some have been manhandled to get them there and persued round an arena of jeering shouting people and are often petrified. I have also bought straight from a stud totally unhandled youngsters.
Firstly there are 2 simple ways one is to shut them in a stable 24/7 close the top door if necessary only go in to feed/muck out and take water the idea is that they depend on you totally for all their needs and will learn to eat which gives you the chance to make friends and reasure her that people are nice. You do not try to touch them or really talk directly until they offer to come then get a headcollar on. Most times this works in days or weeks
The second way is to keep in a small field with a very human friendly horse but they must be out 24/7 again without touching or grabbing you feed them with the bucket very close to you so they both come close for food once they are both close give the dominant one their food move a few feet away and give the flighty one its food this method can take weeks or months. Eventually both will follow you around and want attention but it takes time stay calm whichever method you use and resist the temptation to just let her come and go without your input
 
I have done this loads of times mostly with welsh section d foals from brightwells sales some have been manhandled to get them there and persued round an arena of jeering shouting people and are often petrified. I have also bought straight from a stud totally unhandled youngsters.
Firstly there are 2 simple ways one is to shut them in a stable 24/7 close the top door if necessary only go in to feed/muck out and take water the idea is that they depend on you totally for all their needs and will learn to eat which gives you the chance to make friends and reasure her that people are nice. You do not try to touch them or really talk directly until they offer to come then get a headcollar on. Most times this works in days or weeks
The second way is to keep in a small field with a very human friendly horse but they must be out 24/7 again without touching or grabbing you feed them with the bucket very close to you so they both come close for food once they are both close give the dominant one their food move a few feet away and give the flighty one its food this method can take weeks or months. Eventually both will follow you around and want attention but it takes time stay calm whichever method you use and resist the temptation to just let her come and go without your input

That’s great, thank you for your help and suggestions
 
Oh dear, oh dear. You do know that people don't use their real name on forums don't you? I think I've posted over 10,000 times on this forum, and that's nowhere near being the most amount. I am very sorry if that made it hard for you to dig up things on me. There are not any posts where people have told me to be unkind s far as I'm aware. I have absolutely nothing to do with showing although in the dim and distant past did do a season for a show producer. Its really not for me

I also dont take on feral youngsters anymore and haven't for years now as I'm old, fat and crippled. But I have done and know how easy it is if you know what your doing, and how easy it is to completely screw it up if you dont.

Its not unkind to tell someone they are out of their depth. You know you are. You cant touch this pony and you are concerned. You have tried several things, most stupid, and now you are stumped. So please do tell me how you arent out of your depth?

My advice to rehome the pony still stands. Clearly that's not palatable. So option 2 is to invest large sums of money in having the right sort of professional sort this out for you. There is still an enormous risk that the pony wont do the job you wanted it for, but that's your issue not mine.

It seems a bit odd to suggest rehoming this pony at this point lol. If we all gave up on our ponies and horses this quickly there wouldn't be many owners about! This owner has come on here genuinely looking for advice and ideas which is great, I would guess that is why H&H provided the facility so people could share knowledge and encourage each other. There are all sorts of things to try first, different approaches herself, maybe considering a professional if it comes to that(which I wouldn't consider any admission of failure btw, just perfectly normal). I'm glad no one gave me your advice when I took on my rescue pony, I was in a similar situation to the OP, worked it all out and went on to have many happy riding years with my pony. I'm sure this owner will the same and all the very best to her.
 
It seems a bit odd to suggest rehoming this pony at this point lol. If we all gave up on our ponies and horses this quickly there wouldn't be many owners about! This owner has come on here genuinely looking for advice and ideas which is great, I would guess that is why H&H provided the facility so people could share knowledge and encourage each other. There are all sorts of things to try first, different approaches herself, maybe considering a professional if it comes to that(which I wouldn't consider any admission of failure btw, just perfectly normal). I'm glad no one gave me your advice when I took on my rescue pony, I was in a similar situation to the OP, worked it all out and went on to have many happy riding years with my pony. I'm sure this owner will the same and all the very best to her.

Thank you for your kind comment, I was simply looking for advice and to hear from people who have been in similar situations. I’m glad it worked out for you and your rescue pony, gives me hope rather than being told I need to get rid of her
 
You do not need to get rid you just need to get her trust which will come if you are quiet, calm and matter of fact round her Do not lunge and grab her do not pussyfoot around her if you want to do something then do it firmly and clearly the biggest fault people have is expecting trouble so creeping about or reaching out to tickle the scared animal. That just frightens it more in everything you do with make sure you are firm but fair. the hand on a stick is a good idea if you need to be proactive but once it is touching her it has to stay touching her no matter what she does and is removed only when she stops and thinks
 
Thank you for your kind comment, I was simply looking for advice and to hear from people who have been in similar situations. I’m glad it worked out for you and your rescue pony, gives me hope rather than being told I need to get rid of her

Have a look at ‘My next equine project’. Only difference is yours is 12h mine was 15h at 11 months. Yours will be 12.2 , mine is now 17.2 And has had 8 years worth of blood sweat and many tears.
 
I have done this loads of times mostly with welsh section d foals from brightwells sales some have been manhandled to get them there and persued round an arena of jeering shouting people and are often petrified.

I have been to one of the Welsh sales in Llandovery back in the 70's and was horrified at the treatment meted out to the horses, most completely unhandled. I saw one lovely pony, it was beautifully groomed and led on a halter to the ring then turned loose and chased round the ring, whips cracking, hit across the head etc. made me feel really sick. How could anyone who had obviously invested time and care into that pony allow that to happen! Felt so sorry for all the poor ponies at that sort of sale. Never went again.
 
You could have a look at Sarah Weston's book 'No Fear No Force'. It very much focuses on the type of youngster you have. Some parts were really useful for mine, but she wasn't ever scared of humans so much was irrelevant!

Just had a quick google, that’s the exact thing I am after, thank you for the recommendation!
 
The padded glove on the stick thing does work .
As does sitting in the stable reading a book .
Please please wear your crash cap while you work on with her .
I do think you need to crack this how waiting till she’s older will only make it harder .
Be patient a little of the same every day on the touching side don’t push her to hard .
 
The padded glove on the stick thing does work .
As does sitting in the stable reading a book .
Please please wear your crash cap while you work on with her .
I do think you need to crack this how waiting till she’s older will only make it harder .
Be patient a little of the same every day on the touching side don’t push her to hard .

I agree, I appreciate she’s only a Section A but the bigger and older she gets the worse it will be. Thanks for the help
 
Firstly there are 2 simple ways one is to shut them in a stable 24/7 close the top door if necessary only go in to feed/muck out and take water the idea is that they depend on you totally for all their needs and will learn to eat which gives you the chance to make friends and reasure her that people are nice. You do not try to touch them or really talk directly until they offer to come then get a headcollar on. Most times this works in days or weeks

Please don't do this. Their are much kinder ways of getting through to a feral pony.

Definitely read Sarah Westons book.
 
That's great. I haven't read it and am curious now. What approach do they suggest in the book?

I have stopped half way through so I can put into place what is being taught. But the book is based on the method “Touch and Move” Firstly you introduce the hand on the stick to the horse, each time he looks at it you take it away. This progresses until you eventually touch the horse with the hand on the stick, the horse learns if he is touched and he moves that will not stop him being touched, but if the horse stands still you immediately remove the hand on the stick so the horse learns that if it stands still the hand will go away.
 
I have stopped half way through so I can put into place what is being taught. But the book is based on the method “Touch and Move” Firstly you introduce the hand on the stick to the horse, each time he looks at it you take it away. This progresses until you eventually touch the horse with the hand on the stick, the horse learns if he is touched and he moves that will not stop him being touched, but if the horse stands still you immediately remove the hand on the stick so the horse learns that if it stands still the hand will go away.

Other wise known as pressure and release. It does work and can be used in many many situations. I still use on my feral horse who is rising 9 now and still has a deep seated mistrust that still raises its head on occasion.

One gem of advice is always be ready to take a step back even if you think acceptance has happened over whatever you are working on. I found doing something the horse found easy gave him confidence for something more tricky. For instance, teaching them about rugs. Start with a small towel or saddle cloth and get them confident with it on their neck, withers, back and quarters. Taking it off, letting it fall off both sides and backwards. Then move onto a folded rug doing the same exercises.

It all takes time and can be painstaking but trust and confidence will come and when it does it
 
So after three days of reading Sarah Westons book this pony has come on leaps and bounds. Considering last week she wouldn’t let a person within 10 feet of her, she is now allowing me to touch her from her shoulder to her bottom, still a long way to go but I’m so happy that we are making progress. This book is the best £10 I have ever spent, couldn’t recommend it enough, thank for everyone’s help and recommendations, couldn’t have got this far without your suggestions
 
its a great time of year to win youngsters over, they are usually very itchy loosing there winter coat and a good scratch to them is absolute heaven ( thats assuming you can get near them !)

we had 2 weanlings arrive last year, one was well handled and the other feral. So, we used the well handled one to move them around and let them settle in. They would come in every night. After a couple of weeks i hadnt got any closer to the feral one, as she would hide behind the other one. So i put her in her own stable. I would go in and muck out, top up hay and bring feed. ( irish so loves food). After a couple of days i could scratch her on her wither, she loved it. Then one day just popped the headcollar on. After that it all fell into place pretty quickly. Shes now a real star , who when i turn out ( on the odd day shes brought in, mainly out now) she will stand by the gate and refuses to go off with the others until shes had enough scratches.

It sounds as though you are about to turn a corner, well done ! it will be a fab experience to look back and you will learnloads. Keep us updated
 
its a great time of year to win youngsters over, they are usually very itchy loosing there winter coat and a good scratch to them is absolute heaven ( thats assuming you can get near them !)

we had 2 weanlings arrive last year, one was well handled and the other feral. So, we used the well handled one to move them around and let them settle in. They would come in every night. After a couple of weeks i hadnt got any closer to the feral one, as she would hide behind the other one. So i put her in her own stable. I would go in and muck out, top up hay and bring feed. ( irish so loves food). After a couple of days i could scratch her on her wither, she loved it. Then one day just popped the headcollar on. After that it all fell into place pretty quickly. Shes now a real star , who when i turn out ( on the odd day shes brought in, mainly out now) she will stand by the gate and refuses to go off with the others until shes had enough scratches.

It sounds as though you are about to turn a corner, well done ! it will be a fab experience to look back and you will learnloads. Keep us updated

Its a great sense of achievement when you finally start to get somewhere! Hope your two are well!
 
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