Veryyy strong horse out hacking!

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WackyWelsh

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Hi all, so in reference to my last post (about the sponsored ride) I’m in need of some more advice..
The last few hacks (we mainly use the grass ‘gallops’) with my horse have been a nightmare, he’s fine while he’s on a long rein but as soon as I pick up a contact he thinks ‘go’ (teeth and back etc all checked).
Today was the worst, when I asked for trot he’d manage about 2 strides before plunging into canter and when I felt I could let him go for a bit the little ****** grabbed the bit and tanked off, it wasn’t fun feeling like I was ripping on his mouth just to get him to slow down (I couldn’t circle because there’s a river one side and a ditch the other!)
Well, I ended up working him for about two hours - doing transitions every few strides, reinback and leg yielding until he would happily go from canter - halt without me feeling like I had to really fight him for it. The plan was to tire him out and then make him keep going so he realises it’s not that fun but he’s a lot fitter than I expected! He’s 10 but wasn’t backed until he was 7, so I expect baby moments but I can’t have him tanking off when he feels like it.
He’s in a French link Eggbutt at the moment, any bit recommendations or anything that I can do to stop him being such a ******!
 
WackyWelsh said:
Hi all, so in reference to my last post (about the sponsored ride) I’m in need of some more advice..
The last few hacks (we mainly use the grass ‘gallops’) with my horse have been a nightmare, he’s fine while he’s on a long rein but as soon as I pick up a contact he thinks ‘go’ (teeth and back etc all checked).
Today was the worst, when I asked for trot he’d manage about 2 strides before plunging into canter and when I felt I could let him go for a bit the little ****** grabbed the bit and tanked off, it wasn’t fun feeling like I was ripping on his mouth just to get him to slow down (I couldn’t circle because there’s a river one side and a ditch the other!)
Well, I ended up working him for about two hours - doing transitions every few strides, reinback and leg yielding until he would happily go from canter - halt without me feeling like I had to really fight him for it. The plan was to tire him out and then make him keep going so he realises it’s not that fun but he’s a lot fitter than I expected! He’s 10 but wasn’t backed until he was 7, so I expect baby moments but I can’t have him tanking off when he feels like it.
He’s in a French link Eggbutt at the moment, any bit recommendations or anything that I can do to stop him being such a ******!
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I would insist that he walks up and down the grass until he no longer thinks that grass = go faster. I had to this with one of mine - and she was old enough to know better!
 
I had one like this and it was a nightmare. Good as gold on the roads, but once she touched grass she wanted to gallop. The only thing to do is to walk, and walk and walk and only ask for trot when YOU decide.
 
Pearlsasinger said:
I would insist that he walks up and down the grass until he no longer thinks that grass = go faster. I had to this with one of mine - and she was old enough to know better!
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This is what he needs, having read your previous posts I suspect you have been training him, unintentionally, to go when he gets on grass and are now suffering the consequences, he needs to learn to chill, not be allowed or encouraged to canter or gallop on grass until he is happily trotting along without thinking of going faster, changing the bit may give you more control but it will not change his mindset, may make the bucking and plunging worse and he will probably just get stronger over time anyway.

I quite like schooling out hacking but it can make them more tense and sharp, use the school to work on his canter for now and concentrate on walking hacks with steady trots once he is relaxed, it will take time but there is nothing better than a horse that hacks sensibly and nothing worse than one that will not relax, I would not take this horse on a fun ride as it is likely to blow his brains and ruin any chance of him becoming a pleasure for you or anyone else in the future, not forgetting he could cause an accident if you get out of control surrounded by others.
 
WackyWelsh said:
The plan was to tire him out and then make him keep going so he realises it’s not that fun but he’s a lot fitter than I expected! He’s 10 but wasn’t backed until he was 7, so I expect baby moments but I can’t have him tanking off when he feels like it.
He’s in a French link Eggbutt at the moment, any bit recommendations or anything that I can do to stop him being such a ******!
Click to expand...

Been there done that! Little toad just went on and on and on - in the end I gave up before I gave myself an aneurysm. Mine's odd in that out in open spaces he's a gem, it's in the arena where he becomes this unstoppable tank.

I ride him in a Dutch gag with varying levels of success, depending on what mood he decides he's in...

Sounds very similar to mine in that he was backed late too. Is he a D by any chance?
 
I often walk down grassy gallop areas and trot on down areas I usually walk - them anticipating is very difficult to get over when you do the same thing every time. So start mixing it up and insisting he walks on grass :)
 
I would think that a Market Harborough would be very useful in this situation. IMAGE: https://www.bing.com/images/search?...608033273915968023&selectedIndex=8&ajaxhist=0

The market harborough training aid works like a running martingale when the horse is working correctly, but when needed the horses head is drawn down and onto the bit, it works a bit like draw reins but it allows more freedom of the horses neck and back. The theory being that they can only pull against themselves and not against your hand.

The harbridge is another training aid. The horse cannot lean on the reins and it can encourage a light acceptance of the contact without pulling down or tanking off. https://www.bing.com/images/search?...608013736167540168&selectedIndex=1&ajaxhist=0

Both are training aids which are used for short periods of time providing the horse is in no discomfort whilst wearing them.
 
My Ardennes is retired, but under saddle he was an absolute tank when on hacks - so he was ridden in a pelham. I had 2 reins and the curb only came on when we hit grass tracks where he thought he would like to canter.

I also made sure I didn't canter him in the same place regularly.
 
I've had a few come to me like this. My solution was to walk on grass, every single hack for two months until they learnt to settle. Then started introducing short stretches of trot, back to walk, trot again etc before small bits of canter. It's frustrating and boring as hell to do, particularly coming into spring when we're all desperate for a lovely canter in the fresh air and sunshine (is there anything better?) but it's necessary so you have an adaptable and calm (and safe!) horse. Worth it in the long run!
 
As others have said, walk in all the places you would normally canter. If you feel he is about to take off, straight into a one rein stop. It's a very useful trick to have up your sleeve and certainly with my horse it works, but learn (in a school/safe environment) how to do it first.
 
Can you hack out after having a session in the school or on the lunge to take the edge off his energy, and to allow you to concentrate on his obedience out on the hack?

Also when you decide you want to canter, I find it helps to get hold of the first stride of canter, and keep it collected as possible rather than just let him explode into canter then you've lost him.

And from experience I'd recommend a rubber or vulcanite pelham with a drop noseband. It made all the difference with my horse.
 
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