What bit to use for backing and breaking

Kmcg

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I’m looking to start backing and breaking my rising 4 yo welsh sec D this summer and just curious as to Which bit would be a good starter ?
 
These days I use a happy mouth full cheek French link with copper roller. Full cheek is important for learning to turn. With nylon bits watch for teeth marks as teeth are changing.
 
I would tend to mouth and do the very early work in a D ring or eggbut with either a french link or lozenge. From there it would depend on the horse whether they stayed in that or progressed to a full cheek or loose ring equivalent.
 
I would tend to mouth and do the very early work in a D ring or eggbut with either a french link or lozenge. From there it would depend on the horse whether they stayed in that or progressed to a full cheek or loose ring equivalent.

So do I, I avoid full cheeks in the first stages because of the risk of them getting caught on something, I like youngsters to investigate what is going on, I have also had a few that struggled to take a full cheek without it going in the mouth at some point when bridling.
I don't find it makes much difference to the steering unless they are really hanging and there is risk of it being pulled through the mouth without the cheeks, in which case they probably need to go back a stage, some do prefer the stability given but I like them to be able to move a loose ring in their mouths, unless they are very fussy most go in a loose ring from the start.
The priority is that it fits and often you do need to try a few to see which the individual prefers.
 
i`m doing a lively cob now and he suits a fulmer snaffle, he likes the security and stability, will move onto a copper sprenger training bit later
 
I started mine in a rubber straight bar, a rubber bit is warmer and won't shock them if it knocks on their teeth the first few times they have a bit put in/out. D-rings can be good for turning! There is a school of thought that a jointed mouthpiece gives clearer aid, mine is now in a copper roller (single jointed) for more exciting work, but on the flat he goes fine in the straight bar. I'm a big advocate of the KISS principle, start with the simplest tack and adjust as necessary.
 
I tend to use a Mullen mouth when first bitting and lungeing and then move to a full cheek to help with steering when they are first ridden off the lunge. Once steering is established they go into something like the KK Ultra.
 
A thing to bear in mind is that cobs tend to have small mouths with large tongues so a curved mouth snaffle in a loose ring or eggbut might give more tongue room - double jointed bits such as French links and peanuts don't always suit
 
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