what is the difference between a cob saddle and a normal saddle?

Mine (Kent and masters GP cob) has quite a flat tree and flatter panels that the standard version. My TG T4 cob Dressage has the same differences as above compared to the standard T4 dressage, if that makes sense?
 
GoldenBracken said:
would it be suited to a NF? i looked on saddle co website, and cannot decide between cob saddle and working hunter saddle ! x
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I was going to start a thread about this (kind of) but seeing as we are talking about it here...:D

My cob has a thorowgood t6. In summer it is brill. However in winter she gets a little bit of a belly on her and hence it slips forwards ever so slightly on to er shoulder. I am wondering whether to get her a WH saddle? As OP from what I know, WH saddles are cut straught at the front to allow movement for the shoulder.
 
GoldenBracken said:
would it be suited to a NF? i looked on saddle co website, and cannot decide between cob saddle and working hunter saddle ! x
Click to expand...

saddle co saddles - cobs have flatter tree (as majority of cobs have straighter backs), and also quite wide weight bearing panels. the shoulder is slightly cut back straighter than a standard GP.

WH ones have slightly straighter cut than the cob ones, but are on a more standard shaped tree. and the stirrup bars are set a tad more 'forward' to give more of a 'chair' seat.

in the majority of cases, when buying a new saddle you can bits and bobs changed (eg longer stirrup bars etc).

you'd be best off getting your local fitter out to come and advise you (look on SC website). their callout is usally included in the price of a new saddle. xx
 
almrc said:
I was going to start a thread about this (kind of) but seeing as we are talking about it here...:D

My cob has a thorowgood t6. In summer it is brill. However in winter she gets a little bit of a belly on her and hence it slips forwards ever so slightly on to er shoulder. I am wondering whether to get her a WH saddle? As OP from what I know, WH saddles are cut straught at the front to allow movement for the shoulder.
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having something straighter cut won't stop it moving forward.... does your saddle have a point strap? x
 
hmmm how annoying, but at least I am finding this out now so thank you. yes it does have the extra strap.

The saddler said that theres nothing he could do to stop it slipping.....Its only in winter.
 
almrc said:
hmmm how annoying, but at least I am finding this out now so thank you. yes it does have the extra strap.

The saddler said that theres nothing he could do to stop it slipping.....Its only in winter.
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there are usually a few things that can be done to minimise slipping forward. eg try girthing with the point strap, adjust the flocking etc etc... or a crupper ;) :D
 
I already do the girth up on the 1st and 4th strap as the saddler suggested and the saddle has always slipped even when I bought it from new, so I really dont know
 
My TBX is in the Kent & Masters Cob GP, it's got a flatter tree than the standard GP and a slightly straighter cut at the front - suits him as he's got a flat back and big shoulders for an ickle 15.1!
 
Cob saddle: Flatter, less curved tree. Slimmer, flatter, wider panels. Wider gullet and a much wider 'head' to the saddle (i.e how far appart the panels are at the front). Often a wider seat with shorter panels (same surface area, just shorter). And usually point and balance straps.

almrc - using the back balance strap will just drag the saddle forwards even more - the position of the girth is usually more fixed than the saddle so if you use the back strap on the saddle it will drag the saddle forwards by the girth. Try the first (point) and second girth strap.

Also it my well be a bit too narrow - they slide to the narrowest point which is usually up the shoulders. Try the size up in gullet and see if that helps.
 
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