Perfect_Pirouette
Well-Known Member
Was on the BD forum earlier and came across a post where the OP was asking for advice and solutions to her horse being heavy in her hands and on the forehand. It then transpired that, actually, there seems to be quite a big contact issue as it will veer from that to BTV to giraffe etc.
ANYWAY, one of the replies, I absolutely loved reading every single word. It was such a clear, detailed reply and had me transfixed and constantly 'nodding yes to.' A lot of it I have heard before from trainer's I've used, however seeing it all written down in this clear and concise manner was brilliant.
I think it explains a lot and could be helpful to a lot of people.
Below for anyone interested.
'Balancing act
Balance is what dressage is all about. The horse learns to balance with the weight directed more towards the hind quarters. The rider balances in the saddle by using the core muscles and the seat bones and allowing the movement of the horse to go through while softly following that movement with the pelvis.
When the horse is truly balanced, it feels very easy. The shoulders are more mobile and the horse moves effortlessly, horse and rider can become one.
For most , the above statement is the challenge of a life time but it doesnt have to be.
When horses are unbalanced, either because they are young or untrained, the rider has to cope with trying to steer, keep his/her own position as well as trying to prevent the horse from running through the bridle. The horse has no control over his body and becomes uncoordinated, loses rhythm and speeds up. This way of going is obviously not good for his musculature or for soundness so it is up to the rider to teach the horse better balance.
Everyone knows that the horse must go forward but if there is a lack of balance the last thing you want to be doing is firing around with big long strides as this will only unbalance the horse more.
In the first instance go back to the slower pace, walk. Using just the seat make walk/halt transitions. Then walk down the long side and try to make the steps shorter and longer, again by just using the seat. Move the shoulders and the quarters around by riding a few steps shoulder fore, then travers/renvers and some leg yield. By doing these exercises the horse will begin to listen to the seat and work more from behind.
At this stage have someone observe your position and correct you if you are crooked or tipping forward.
Start the trot work In the same vein but keep the steps short (not slower as you need the energy), make the seat heavier as you sit in the rising trot and dont rise too high. Give repeated little half halts on the outside rein. Once the horse is listening allow him a little more freedom to carry himself. If he loses balance come back to the shorter steps or make a half halt to rebalance him. This work is the basis of collection but do not be afraid to use these exercises if it is a younger horse. As long as the horse wants to go forward there is not a problem in making him take shorter strides. Once the balance is established he can be allowed to take longer strides and will have more swing through the back.
Do not be tempted by someone saying he should go more forwards, even trainers can be guilty of this until they get on board and feel the problem.
The rider has to have a stable position and seat so that the horse does not pull him out of the saddle when he loses balance and wants to lean on the hand. The half halt can only come from a secure seat and the core muscles. Once the horse understands the rider can then ride forwards for a few strides. This is the way to teach the horse more self-carriage, this does not have to be GP self- carriage but better balance, which will improve all the way up the levels.
Kyra Kirkland has a clear exercise at the start of every training session which she demonstrated many years ago at Stoneleigh where many of our top riders were guinea pigs. The riders had to be able to stop the horse with the rein and then ask him to go forward with the leg. These basic aids are literally touch and go. Touch the rein and stop. Touch with the leg and go. It was surprising how many top horses did not do this at that time, well it was 20 odd years ago!
Confident riders are so because they have a secure seat and can control the length of stride and the tempo.
Make sure that you sit evenly on your seat bones as loading one more than the other will make the horse want to step under that seat bone all the time, so if its your right seat bone he will want to go right even if you are on the left rein.
I remember when someone corrected my position and made me sit straight. To me I felt crooked because I had been incorrect for so long, it is still something I struggle with. Mirrors, video or a friend can help with this.
The lower leg must not get too far back or too far forward, it should be in line with the hip bone. If you had the horse taken out from underneath you, you should land on your feet.
One of the most important aspects of position is the alignment to the mouth. A straight line from the elbow to hand to the horses mouth is all very well but what about the quality of the contact and the weight of the reins?
The elbows need to be angled and deep, not stuck out like chicken wings or straight. The rider should feel like he has the weight of the reins in his elbow and then the hand can be soft and flexible.
The same applies to the knees, they need an angle and a bend as over long stirrups and straight legs weaken the seat. The same applies though if you over shorten the stirrup leathers and ride like a jump jockey, you will not be able to develop a deep seat and will be tipped back off your seat bones.
By maintaining your balance and strong core your horse will not be able to pull you off your seat and once he/she realises this, the game of tug of war is over and the horse starts to balance because the rider is balanced.
When riding the shorter steps the rider needs to use the aids separately but close together, so as we said above once the horse is clear that the rein means stop and the leg means go then put the aids together. The hands take and give to ask for the shorter steps and as he shortens your leg reminds him to keep the energy behind so that he does not slow down.
Once you can get him to do this and remain in rhythm with energy then you can push your hands forward and release the rein and keep a quiet leg and he should continue in the same trot, if he does he is in balance.
After achieving this a few times you can then ease the stride out to a longer stride and he should still keep the same balance. This is how to teach those lovely uphill medium trots we all admire, but remember it is step by step, not slowing down and not hurrying forward.
After a few days you should see a difference in the way of going because of these exercises which should be repeated every time you train. The horse will look and feel more uphill to ride and will be lowering his quarters and transferring more weight onto the hind legs.
It is this sort of training that will take you from 60% to 70% no matter if you are on a Shire cross or a Warmblood.
This is what dressage is all about. As the contact becomes lighter and the quality of the balance improves the horse will start to develop more lift to his steps, cadence, and the rider will feel as if they are sitting on air.'
ANYWAY, one of the replies, I absolutely loved reading every single word. It was such a clear, detailed reply and had me transfixed and constantly 'nodding yes to.' A lot of it I have heard before from trainer's I've used, however seeing it all written down in this clear and concise manner was brilliant.
I think it explains a lot and could be helpful to a lot of people.
Below for anyone interested.
'Balancing act
Balance is what dressage is all about. The horse learns to balance with the weight directed more towards the hind quarters. The rider balances in the saddle by using the core muscles and the seat bones and allowing the movement of the horse to go through while softly following that movement with the pelvis.
When the horse is truly balanced, it feels very easy. The shoulders are more mobile and the horse moves effortlessly, horse and rider can become one.
For most , the above statement is the challenge of a life time but it doesnt have to be.
When horses are unbalanced, either because they are young or untrained, the rider has to cope with trying to steer, keep his/her own position as well as trying to prevent the horse from running through the bridle. The horse has no control over his body and becomes uncoordinated, loses rhythm and speeds up. This way of going is obviously not good for his musculature or for soundness so it is up to the rider to teach the horse better balance.
Everyone knows that the horse must go forward but if there is a lack of balance the last thing you want to be doing is firing around with big long strides as this will only unbalance the horse more.
In the first instance go back to the slower pace, walk. Using just the seat make walk/halt transitions. Then walk down the long side and try to make the steps shorter and longer, again by just using the seat. Move the shoulders and the quarters around by riding a few steps shoulder fore, then travers/renvers and some leg yield. By doing these exercises the horse will begin to listen to the seat and work more from behind.
At this stage have someone observe your position and correct you if you are crooked or tipping forward.
Start the trot work In the same vein but keep the steps short (not slower as you need the energy), make the seat heavier as you sit in the rising trot and dont rise too high. Give repeated little half halts on the outside rein. Once the horse is listening allow him a little more freedom to carry himself. If he loses balance come back to the shorter steps or make a half halt to rebalance him. This work is the basis of collection but do not be afraid to use these exercises if it is a younger horse. As long as the horse wants to go forward there is not a problem in making him take shorter strides. Once the balance is established he can be allowed to take longer strides and will have more swing through the back.
Do not be tempted by someone saying he should go more forwards, even trainers can be guilty of this until they get on board and feel the problem.
The rider has to have a stable position and seat so that the horse does not pull him out of the saddle when he loses balance and wants to lean on the hand. The half halt can only come from a secure seat and the core muscles. Once the horse understands the rider can then ride forwards for a few strides. This is the way to teach the horse more self-carriage, this does not have to be GP self- carriage but better balance, which will improve all the way up the levels.
Kyra Kirkland has a clear exercise at the start of every training session which she demonstrated many years ago at Stoneleigh where many of our top riders were guinea pigs. The riders had to be able to stop the horse with the rein and then ask him to go forward with the leg. These basic aids are literally touch and go. Touch the rein and stop. Touch with the leg and go. It was surprising how many top horses did not do this at that time, well it was 20 odd years ago!
Confident riders are so because they have a secure seat and can control the length of stride and the tempo.
Make sure that you sit evenly on your seat bones as loading one more than the other will make the horse want to step under that seat bone all the time, so if its your right seat bone he will want to go right even if you are on the left rein.
I remember when someone corrected my position and made me sit straight. To me I felt crooked because I had been incorrect for so long, it is still something I struggle with. Mirrors, video or a friend can help with this.
The lower leg must not get too far back or too far forward, it should be in line with the hip bone. If you had the horse taken out from underneath you, you should land on your feet.
One of the most important aspects of position is the alignment to the mouth. A straight line from the elbow to hand to the horses mouth is all very well but what about the quality of the contact and the weight of the reins?
The elbows need to be angled and deep, not stuck out like chicken wings or straight. The rider should feel like he has the weight of the reins in his elbow and then the hand can be soft and flexible.
The same applies to the knees, they need an angle and a bend as over long stirrups and straight legs weaken the seat. The same applies though if you over shorten the stirrup leathers and ride like a jump jockey, you will not be able to develop a deep seat and will be tipped back off your seat bones.
By maintaining your balance and strong core your horse will not be able to pull you off your seat and once he/she realises this, the game of tug of war is over and the horse starts to balance because the rider is balanced.
When riding the shorter steps the rider needs to use the aids separately but close together, so as we said above once the horse is clear that the rein means stop and the leg means go then put the aids together. The hands take and give to ask for the shorter steps and as he shortens your leg reminds him to keep the energy behind so that he does not slow down.
Once you can get him to do this and remain in rhythm with energy then you can push your hands forward and release the rein and keep a quiet leg and he should continue in the same trot, if he does he is in balance.
After achieving this a few times you can then ease the stride out to a longer stride and he should still keep the same balance. This is how to teach those lovely uphill medium trots we all admire, but remember it is step by step, not slowing down and not hurrying forward.
After a few days you should see a difference in the way of going because of these exercises which should be repeated every time you train. The horse will look and feel more uphill to ride and will be lowering his quarters and transferring more weight onto the hind legs.
It is this sort of training that will take you from 60% to 70% no matter if you are on a Shire cross or a Warmblood.
This is what dressage is all about. As the contact becomes lighter and the quality of the balance improves the horse will start to develop more lift to his steps, cadence, and the rider will feel as if they are sitting on air.'
