FinnishLapphund
There's no cow on the ice
Miss Candy posted a question on another thread and I didn't want to hijack that thread, so I'm posting my answer in this new thread.
My view on fashionable crossbreeds is that I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole. Because my experience of such breeders is that they live in la la la la land, where all crossbreeds are innate healthy and therefore the stud dog and broodbitch requires no health tests (I apologise to anyone not like that).
But genes doesn't care about innate healthiness, if they're duplicated - they're duplicated, no matter if you cross a Spanish Water Dog with a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever, or a Cocker Spaniel with a Dwarf Poodle, all those four breeds can carry the eye disease gene prcd-PRA, and if it is duplicated - it is duplicated.
Another example, let's say that we cross a Beagle with a Shetland Sheepdog, some of the puppies inherit the eye disease gene for POA Glaucoma from the Beagle, one of those puppies becomes a broodbitch that is mated back to another Beagle, if that leads to a duplication of the gene for POA Glaucoma, then this new fashionable, "innate healthy" Beagle/Shetland Sheepdog crossbreed can have the same inherited eye disease POA Glaucoma, as a purebred Beagle.
Optigen offers some different DNA-tests for dogs, for example :
If you have a Golden Retriever it can be tested for 3 diseases (prcd-PRA, GR_PRA1 & Ichthyosis).
If you have a Labrador Retriever it can be tested for 3 diseases (prcd-PRA, RD/OSD & NARC).
If you have a Labrador/Golden Retriever cross it can be tested for 4 diseases (prcd-PRA, GR_PRA1, Ichthyosis & RD/OSD).
If you have a Goldendoodle it can be tested for 4 diseases (IC, prcd-PRA, GR_PRA1 & Ichthyosis).
If you have a Labradoodle it can be tested for 4 diseases (IC, PFK, prcd-PRA & RD/OSD).
If you have an Australian Labradoodle it can be tested for 5 diseases (IC, Ichthyosis, PFK, prcd-PRA & RD/OSD).
If you have a Labradoodle/Goldendoodle cross it can be tested for 6 diseases (IC, Ichthyosis, PFK, NARC, prcd-PRA & RD/OSD).
( http://www.optigen.com/opt9_test.html )
So without even going in to more complicated recessively inherited diseases like Hip Dysplasia, I will say that I believe, that it truly does matter for all puppy buyers that the stud dog and broodbitch are KC registered and health tested according to the requirements for the breed(/breeds), regardless whether you are buying the puppy as a potential stud dog/broodbitch or as a family pet. Because in neither case do you want to take a bigger risk than necessary, to have a puppy that develops an inherited disease, and as proven above, to simply buy a crossbreed offers no guarantee for avoiding inherited diseases.
Things that I associate with backyard breeders :
Doesn't believe that registration and/or health tests is necessary, especially if the puppy is sold as a pet dog.
Not that knowledgeable about their breed/breeds, health testing or the rest of the dog world (including anything from dog training, agility, working dog competitions etc.), and doesn't believe that such things is relevant if you only want a pet dog.
Can't offer any help or advice about which puppy you should choose, they can't evaluate the puppies temperament and thereby not tell you which puppy/puppies that is most suitable for you. Without leaves it all up to you, so you can pick the puppy that you think is cutest, the one that you feel have picked you out, the one that you feel sorry for etc.
As long as they get your money, they don't really care about who you are or if you're a suitable owner for this type of dog.
Believes that their responsibility ends when you've walked out through their front door with your new puppy. They doesn't offer any support and would never ever consider taking back a puppy once it is sold.
Makes easy, convenient, cheap decisions when deciding upon stud dog.
If the puppies are purebred, they don't know the inbreeding percentage of the mating. For example if I want to breed one of my bitches, then I would know that if I choose stud dog A, the litter gets an inbreeding percentage of 1,4 %, but if I choose stud dog B, the litter gets an inbreeding percentage of 0,4 %, a lower percentage is good from a genetic point, but then maybe stud dog A have better health test scores, better temperament... If I was the breeder, I would be able to explain my stud dog choice to you.
Breeds from broodbitches with unsuitable/undesirable temperament.
Doesn't truly care if the stud dog or broodbitch is healthy, all that matters is if they can reproduce themselves and that it results in as many puppies as possible.
Uses a broodbitch that is not up to date on vaccinations or deworming, sells puppies without their first vaccination, that isn't dewormed, that haven't passed the simple puppy health test check that veterinarians can do.
Either sells the puppies without contracts or with some homemade contract that might not even be worth the paper it is written on.
Sells puppies without guarantees and the puppies are not insured (for example a typical good Swedish breeder will have the puppies fully insured up to 12 weeks of age and after that they are insured regarding hidden faults up to 3 years of age).
Allows you to take home your new puppy before 8 weeks of age, regardless of that it is important for puppies to get those weeks of training their socialisation skills together with their siblings.
Doesn't provide the puppies with a stimulating environment, giving them things to investigate, giving them a chance to get used to normal household sounds and haven't handled them on a regular basis.
Tells you what you want to hear, so hypothetically if you say that you want a couch potato, that you can take out on short strolls around the block and that doesn't need much activation, the breeder will tell you that it makes you a perfect owner of a Border Collie!
But sadly some backyard breeders knows these things, and does their very best to portray themselves as good breeders, so use the internet to try and find out how many litters they sell per year, and check if the stud dog and broodbitch have any official health test results (for example the Kennel Club have this http://www.the-kennel-club.org.uk/services/public/mateselect/test/Default.aspx ).
Also for example :
Ask to see where the puppies are kept, when the breeder can't supervise them.
If you can't go near the broodbitch even if you meet her away from the puppies, don't expect the puppies to have a better temperament.
Ask for advice about which puppy to choose.
Ask how and why they choose the stud dog that they used.
Get suspicious if the breeder doesn't have any questions for you or about you.
Don't buy a puppy that haven't had its first vaccination, isn't dewormed or veterinarian checked.
Don't buy a puppy without a proper contract.
And at last, a difference between for example Great Britain and Sweden, on websites that talks about how to recognise a backyard breeder, then in Great Britain it is often said that only backyard breeders advertises in local newspapers, but in Sweden both good breeders and backyard breeders advertises in local newspapers and I like that, because that way they're not leaving any "field" open for only the backyard breeders and good breeders can easily be found even for a novice first time dog buyer.
This was the things I could come and think of, I hope it answers your questions and that other HHO:ers can fill in the things that I've missed.
Apple or Popcorn to those who read this to the end.
I'd be interested to hear views on these currently fashionable cross breeds where both parents are KC registered but obviously the pup won't be.
Would it only matter if the pup would then be used for breeding?
What defines a back yard breeder?
My view on fashionable crossbreeds is that I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole. Because my experience of such breeders is that they live in la la la la land, where all crossbreeds are innate healthy and therefore the stud dog and broodbitch requires no health tests (I apologise to anyone not like that).
But genes doesn't care about innate healthiness, if they're duplicated - they're duplicated, no matter if you cross a Spanish Water Dog with a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever, or a Cocker Spaniel with a Dwarf Poodle, all those four breeds can carry the eye disease gene prcd-PRA, and if it is duplicated - it is duplicated.
Another example, let's say that we cross a Beagle with a Shetland Sheepdog, some of the puppies inherit the eye disease gene for POA Glaucoma from the Beagle, one of those puppies becomes a broodbitch that is mated back to another Beagle, if that leads to a duplication of the gene for POA Glaucoma, then this new fashionable, "innate healthy" Beagle/Shetland Sheepdog crossbreed can have the same inherited eye disease POA Glaucoma, as a purebred Beagle.
Optigen offers some different DNA-tests for dogs, for example :
If you have a Golden Retriever it can be tested for 3 diseases (prcd-PRA, GR_PRA1 & Ichthyosis).
If you have a Labrador Retriever it can be tested for 3 diseases (prcd-PRA, RD/OSD & NARC).
If you have a Labrador/Golden Retriever cross it can be tested for 4 diseases (prcd-PRA, GR_PRA1, Ichthyosis & RD/OSD).
If you have a Goldendoodle it can be tested for 4 diseases (IC, prcd-PRA, GR_PRA1 & Ichthyosis).
If you have a Labradoodle it can be tested for 4 diseases (IC, PFK, prcd-PRA & RD/OSD).
If you have an Australian Labradoodle it can be tested for 5 diseases (IC, Ichthyosis, PFK, prcd-PRA & RD/OSD).
If you have a Labradoodle/Goldendoodle cross it can be tested for 6 diseases (IC, Ichthyosis, PFK, NARC, prcd-PRA & RD/OSD).
( http://www.optigen.com/opt9_test.html )
So without even going in to more complicated recessively inherited diseases like Hip Dysplasia, I will say that I believe, that it truly does matter for all puppy buyers that the stud dog and broodbitch are KC registered and health tested according to the requirements for the breed(/breeds), regardless whether you are buying the puppy as a potential stud dog/broodbitch or as a family pet. Because in neither case do you want to take a bigger risk than necessary, to have a puppy that develops an inherited disease, and as proven above, to simply buy a crossbreed offers no guarantee for avoiding inherited diseases.
Things that I associate with backyard breeders :
Doesn't believe that registration and/or health tests is necessary, especially if the puppy is sold as a pet dog.
Not that knowledgeable about their breed/breeds, health testing or the rest of the dog world (including anything from dog training, agility, working dog competitions etc.), and doesn't believe that such things is relevant if you only want a pet dog.
Can't offer any help or advice about which puppy you should choose, they can't evaluate the puppies temperament and thereby not tell you which puppy/puppies that is most suitable for you. Without leaves it all up to you, so you can pick the puppy that you think is cutest, the one that you feel have picked you out, the one that you feel sorry for etc.
As long as they get your money, they don't really care about who you are or if you're a suitable owner for this type of dog.
Believes that their responsibility ends when you've walked out through their front door with your new puppy. They doesn't offer any support and would never ever consider taking back a puppy once it is sold.
Makes easy, convenient, cheap decisions when deciding upon stud dog.
If the puppies are purebred, they don't know the inbreeding percentage of the mating. For example if I want to breed one of my bitches, then I would know that if I choose stud dog A, the litter gets an inbreeding percentage of 1,4 %, but if I choose stud dog B, the litter gets an inbreeding percentage of 0,4 %, a lower percentage is good from a genetic point, but then maybe stud dog A have better health test scores, better temperament... If I was the breeder, I would be able to explain my stud dog choice to you.
Breeds from broodbitches with unsuitable/undesirable temperament.
Doesn't truly care if the stud dog or broodbitch is healthy, all that matters is if they can reproduce themselves and that it results in as many puppies as possible.
Uses a broodbitch that is not up to date on vaccinations or deworming, sells puppies without their first vaccination, that isn't dewormed, that haven't passed the simple puppy health test check that veterinarians can do.
Either sells the puppies without contracts or with some homemade contract that might not even be worth the paper it is written on.
Sells puppies without guarantees and the puppies are not insured (for example a typical good Swedish breeder will have the puppies fully insured up to 12 weeks of age and after that they are insured regarding hidden faults up to 3 years of age).
Allows you to take home your new puppy before 8 weeks of age, regardless of that it is important for puppies to get those weeks of training their socialisation skills together with their siblings.
Doesn't provide the puppies with a stimulating environment, giving them things to investigate, giving them a chance to get used to normal household sounds and haven't handled them on a regular basis.
Tells you what you want to hear, so hypothetically if you say that you want a couch potato, that you can take out on short strolls around the block and that doesn't need much activation, the breeder will tell you that it makes you a perfect owner of a Border Collie!
But sadly some backyard breeders knows these things, and does their very best to portray themselves as good breeders, so use the internet to try and find out how many litters they sell per year, and check if the stud dog and broodbitch have any official health test results (for example the Kennel Club have this http://www.the-kennel-club.org.uk/services/public/mateselect/test/Default.aspx ).
Also for example :
Ask to see where the puppies are kept, when the breeder can't supervise them.
If you can't go near the broodbitch even if you meet her away from the puppies, don't expect the puppies to have a better temperament.
Ask for advice about which puppy to choose.
Ask how and why they choose the stud dog that they used.
Get suspicious if the breeder doesn't have any questions for you or about you.
Don't buy a puppy that haven't had its first vaccination, isn't dewormed or veterinarian checked.
Don't buy a puppy without a proper contract.
And at last, a difference between for example Great Britain and Sweden, on websites that talks about how to recognise a backyard breeder, then in Great Britain it is often said that only backyard breeders advertises in local newspapers, but in Sweden both good breeders and backyard breeders advertises in local newspapers and I like that, because that way they're not leaving any "field" open for only the backyard breeders and good breeders can easily be found even for a novice first time dog buyer.
This was the things I could come and think of, I hope it answers your questions and that other HHO:ers can fill in the things that I've missed.
Apple or Popcorn to those who read this to the end.