Clipping Time Again, my annual tips!

TheEngineer

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My annual informative post, which I hope may be of some help as the clipping season approaches.

Well, that time of year is now with us and those clippers you chucked in the back of the tack room last season, will be dragged "kicking and screaming" into the light of day. Therefore I decided to put a few posts together, as I did last year to be of assistance with any clipper problems or questions.

For those that didn't read any of my posts last season, my background is, that I work for one of the "big four" clipper companies as an engineer, with nearly 16 years experience in sharpening, repairs and clipper related problems.

I don't say who I work for, because i am not here to generate business or plug my "brand", merely to offer advice or try and answer queries. Please feel free to PM me with any questions and I will try my best to answer.

For starters a little free advice before the season leaps into top gear!

1) Get your clippers out now, check the mains lead, check they run and send them in for a service/safety check before the rush starts.

2) Clean your blades off and get them sharpened fresh for the new season, check for damaged teeth, rust and corrosion, all of which will hamper your clipping.

3) Get you power sockets, trip switches and extension leads tested, ready for the season.

4) Throw the WD40 in the bin and buy some proper clipper oil, then you are ready to go, with a clean, safe machine, the correct oil and sharp blades.

When your clippers do go wrong and trust me they will at some time, try and stay calm. Think logically and firstly ask yourself the question "Has anything changed?" You would be amazed the number of machines that I see, where perhaps, the user has finished a can of oil and bought a different brand. Suddenly clipper is red hot and "its the clippers fault". Or they have changed from sharpening man A to his cheaper rival and the clipper wont cut, teddy is chucked out of cot and the clipper gets the blame, because "I've just had my blades sharpened etc etc". A different mains socket in the stable is used and the clipper is dead, or other such scenarios.

Remember, most clipper companies that are any good, will have an in house service dept. We are here to help and in my own personal experience, the people who get help the quickest are those who are polite, concise and able to listen. We want you to be clipping again as soon as possible, so when you speak to the engineer who is going to repair your clipper, try not to take out your angst on him or her and you will get a lot better service. Also bear in mind that it pays to have your machine looked at by the man who sharpens your blades, on many occasions I see machines without blades sent in for repair, whilst the user sends the blades to "old Joe" down the road, because he is £6 and we are £9, yet three weeks later, I see the same machine back under complaint, with blades this time, in 80% of the cases, I sharpen the blades "CORRECTLY" and the machine works fine, yet the user expects the repair to be FOC. Not a problem that occurs if you have blades and clipper maintained by the same firm.

************************************

A tip for getting nervous horses used to clippers, recommended to me by several customers:

One thing you could try, is get an old set of clippers and hang them from a hook on the wall of your horses stall, leave them turned on for a couple of hours (no need to fit blades) this may help your horse get over their fear of the noise?

*****************************************

If your clippers have died and you are looking to replace them, here are my top tips for you when searching for the right machine!

Just a little advice if searching for new clippers. When you are looking, be aware of what you want to do and how much clipping you will do each season. Also bear in mind the thickness of your horses coat and his/her sensitivity to noise etc.

Fashion of late, is for many of the big trimmer manufacturers to sell trimmers with "wide" blades as suitable for clipping. Whilst some of these are suitable for clipping clean dry, well groomed horses occasionally. They are still not up to heavier jobs and thicker coats. Remember the old adage, "Clippers clip, Trimmers Trim"!

Also, look for a renowned Brand, Wolseley, Lister, Liveryman, Hauptner, Heinegar etc. There are many clippers on E Bay and discount web sites which are poor quality copies of well known makes, with inferior quality blades, which are made in china and sold on the net. These clippers may look a bargain, but next season when the warranty is out and you need service and spares, you will find no one will be able to, or want to service/repair them.

I had a very interesting conversation with the Health And Safety Executive last season and they were actively seeking to stop one "E Bay Brand" which does not conform to British safety spec" so BUYER BEWARE...a cheap clipper is not worth a dead horse........

Whilst you may see these cheap bargains on the net, remember that the well established companies, will usually have an in house service dept, for sharpening and service/repairs, plus technical advice and spares backup. Thats why their machines may cost a bit more, a price well worth paying.

The other thing to bear in mind, when purchasing clippers, is "READ THE INSTRUCTIONS", in the course of my work I see so many clippers sent back, with minor, "user related" problems. Many of which are caused by "a know it all attitude" and an inability to read the instructions. You may be able to clip with "brand x" but that does not mean that "brand y" works the same and your "mate" may have used WD40 to lubricate his blades for years, but that doesn't mean that it is the correct thing to do!

Overall, buy a clipper which is comfortable to hold, a recognized make, powerful enough for your needs (both today and next year), fitted with the correct blades for the job. (it is worth buying a set of A6/coarser blades to accompany the standard A2 blades, for slightly thicker or matted coats)

On the subject of blades, buy a brand you know, preferably made from either quality German steel or Japanese steel. Avoid blades made from recycled "Chinese" steel, as the hardness and quality of the metal is not of the same standard and will greatly affect the quality of the clip and the strain on the clipper. As with "cheap clippers", cheap blades are too good to be true. You will find that the established "quality" clipper suppliers will sell "branded" blades, alongside quality machines. This speaks for itself!

But most importantly, look after your blades!!!!! The number of machines I see with rusty, damaged and dirty filthy blunt blades increases every year. If you bought a car, you wouldn't dream of running it on bald tyres, so why buy a clipper, then run it with blunt blades? Have them sharpened regularly, by a suitable firm, who come recommended by other users, or return them to the manufacturers own service dept.

Overall, you will find whatever brand you buy, if you follow the above tips, you will have safe, hassle free clipping...

Most repair firms have a busy workload once the season kicks in, so be an "early bird" and you wont be panicking, with a half clipped horse and a dead pair of clippers when you need them most.


Last of all, remember I give my advice for free and am happy for anyone to PM me who would like clipper advice or electric fencing advice............I don't always promise to know the answer, but am happy to find out if it is something a bit "off the wall". Also, if you have any tips that work wonders, I am always interested to hear them.

Any advice I give, is purely my own opinion based on my years of experience and I make no claims as to the effectiveness of my advice, you take it at your own risk. (Sad world that I have to say this, but that's life)
 

NOISYGIRL

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Which oil is best, spray ones (not WD40) or the oil in a bottle which you drip on

Thanks, your post is most helpful
 

TheEngineer

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Which oil is best, spray ones (not WD40) or the oil in a bottle which you drip on

Thanks, your post is most helpful

Most "drip type oils" are around SAE 30 which means the oil is not to thin and will stay on the blade for longer. Spray oils can also be SAE 30, but the propellant that pushes the oil out of the can (more often than not liquid butane) will thin the oil to a degree. With lighter duty clippers, I tend to find the spray is fine, but on bigger machines, such as Lister Lasers, Wolseley Harriers, liveryman Mustangs I tend to err on the side of the drip can oil.

On most occasions though the problem is exacerbated by far too tight tension on the blades, which causes heat which evaporates the oil faster and then gets hotter still.Sharp blades cut at correct tension and help avoid overheating, the choice is yours.

Happy clipping...

The Engineer
 

Littlemissmoneypenny

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Thanks for the advice!

Do you know anywhere reputable that sells second hand clippers? I only have the one horse and I don't know if it would be worthwhile buying a new set for just the one horse. I have in the past used people come out and clip, but my new horse wouldn't be happy for a stranger to come near her with them!

Thanks!
 

chestnut cob

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Can you suggest somewhere reputable to send my blades for sharpening please?

Used to use Eddie Palin but they have gone now. Have used the Stock Shop before and never again (long version..blades never come back sharp and it most definitely isn't my clipping technique or me trying to clip a dirty horse) so looking for someone else.

Thanks :)
 

TheEngineer

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Thanks for the advice!

Do you know anywhere reputable that sells second hand clippers? I only have the one horse and I don't know if it would be worthwhile buying a new set for just the one horse. I have in the past used people come out and clip, but my new horse wouldn't be happy for a stranger to come near her with them!

Thanks!

Second hand is always a problem, people rareley sell second hand clippers that are good and cheap, clippers tend to get a fair use, so it pays if buying secondhand to get some that have been serviced recently and can be seen working. PM me and let me know where in UK you are and I will see if any of my dealer contacts have any good deals.
 

TheEngineer

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Can you suggest somewhere reputable to send my blades for sharpening please?

Used to use Eddie Palin but they have gone now. Have used the Stock Shop before and never again (long version..blades never come back sharp and it most definitely isn't my clipping technique or me trying to clip a dirty horse) so looking for someone else.

Thanks :)

Surprised you had trouble with Stockshop, as alongside HCS, Clippersharp and Clippers Hg,I would have said they were normally pretty good. They had the same sharpening machine as Eddie Palin uses, as far as I am aware. Eddie has been taken over by a firm in Northern Ireland called Agrihealth, so I am sure you could still post your blades to them if you were pleased with their service.
 

Nagling

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Do you know of anywhere good to send clippers away for a service? I've got an old set of listers. I'm in Devon too and have been to local ag stores who say they can send them away but they have no idea of the costs. I understand they don't know what will need doing but I would expect a standard charge for the service with parts as extra. Any ideas would be great - thanks!!
 

Shear Ease

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Excellent post! Very informative!

If I may add a little on blade care...

Firstly, apologies if there are any plugs in this piece for the company I work for, I dont believe there are any plugs but this piece is copied and pasted straight from our website so...!

It is essential that clipper blades should be looked after properly, as not only does it affect the life of your blades, but more costly, the life of your clipper. Proper care will help keep your clipper blades sharper for longer and will dramatically reduce wear and tear on your clipper. The cost of good quality clipper blade oil and the time it takes to care for your blades is tiny compared to the potential repair costs resulting from poor maintenance. Effective care consists of 1. Cleaning your blades, 2. Oiling your blades and, 3. Storing your blades properly.

You will need:

An oil soaked cloth, clipper blade oil, 2 small containers and blade wash of some description.

1. CLEAN YOUR CLIPPER BLADES.

Firstly, clipper blades need to be cleaned periodically while clipping. There is no point in lubricating a dirty, gritty blade; it will still go blunt quickly!

Remove excess fur and grit from around the blade with a stiff brush (similar to a toothbrush). You can blow excess fur from the blade, but expect to get a fair share in your face! Here at Shear Ease we have an air compressor that we use. We don’t expect most people to have one but if you do have one, use it, if you don’t use a stiff brush!

Using something like blade wash. (Something like! It’s not THAT important, washing up liquid and water will do fine) Using a small container, create a pool deep enough to immerse the blades (AND ONLY THE BLADES!). Turn the clipper on, with blade attached. Run the blade in the pool of whatever liquid you choose to use. You should see tiny bits of fur washing from in between the teeth of the blades. Depending on the build-up, the blades should start to run more freely, causing the motor to run slightly easier and quicker.

Wipe the back of the blade with an oil soaked cloth and then follow steps below for oiling them quickly and thoroughly.

“As well as cleaning blades during clipping, blades should be thoroughly cleaned after clipping.”

It is possible to take clipper blades apart, this will enable to clean your blades very well, but is time consuming and if you not sure how to put them back together properly, you may end up stopping the blade working totally! We will soon have a video guide showing you how to re assemble a clipper blade but until then, just in case, don’t take them apart unless you know what you are doing!

The idea is to remove any kind of grit, fur and build up from the cutting surfaces of the blades. Use anything such as washing up liquid, blade wash, plain water. Use a stiff brush (an old toothbrush is ideal) to brush any or all of the above from the cutting surfaces. Slide the comb to one side, clean both cutting services, slide the comb the other way and do the same again.

Blades used for surgery would need to be disinfected in the same way as any surgical instrument.

DO NOT LEAVE BLADES WITHOUT OIL AFTER CLEANING! YOU MAY RETURN IN A DAY OR SO TO FIND SPECKS OF RUST ON YOUR BLADES! CLEANING YOUR BLADES IS JUST THE FIRST THING TO DO. CLIPPERS MUST BE PROTECTED FROM RUST (WITH OIL) STRAIGHT AFTER CLEANING.

2. KEEP BLADES LUBRICATED AT ALL TIMES.

Oil means less friction. Less friction means less heat. Excess heat can cause clipper rash and an unhappy animal! Friction also causes blades to go blunt quicker.

Good quality clipper oil is best. Most clipper manufacturers have their own clipper blade oil. Use this. Many people use WD-40 as a convenient alternative. As a spray, WD-40 is too thin and evaporates quickly. Oil can be used as an effective wash, WD-40 in spray can form cannot be effective as a wash and actually fur and dirt stick to it, having an adverse effect. WD-40 in a pot, used as a dunk is no good either. WD-40 is so thin it gets into the mechanisms of a clipper and washes out heavy grease in time. This will destroy clipper in time.

If you are in a situation where the amount of oil you use doesn’t bother you, then, using a small container, create a pool deep enough to immerse the blades (AND ONLY THE BLADES!). Turn the clipper on, with blade attached. Run the blade in the pool of oil.

If you wish to conserve your oil, tip some in between the teeth and at the back of the cutter while the blade is running, basically wherever the two blades come in contact with each other.

Do not leave the clipper blades to soak in blade wash because of the high water content, try to wipe the clipper blade dry as much as possible.

3. STORING YOUR BLADES.

After being washed and lubricated for the final time before storing them, they should be wrapped in an oil soaked cloth and stored in a moisture free area. If a blade goes rusty, it WILL go blunt VERY quickly. Rust won’t be any good in a surgical environment either.
 

TheEngineer

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Would Echo everything the good folk at Shear Ease have to say, my only addition would be I am not a fan of running clippers in blade wash with the blades immersed, as I find with some machines it gets back into the machine gearbox. If in doubt I would always advocate, "blades off and wash separate to the machine"


Excellent post! Very informative!

If I may add a little on blade care...

Firstly, apologies if there are any plugs in this piece for the company I work for, I dont believe there are any plugs but this piece is copied and pasted straight from our website so...!

It is essential that clipper blades should be looked after properly, as not only does it affect the life of your blades, but more costly, the life of your clipper. Proper care will help keep your clipper blades sharper for longer and will dramatically reduce wear and tear on your clipper. The cost of good quality clipper blade oil and the time it takes to care for your blades is tiny compared to the potential repair costs resulting from poor maintenance. Effective care consists of 1. Cleaning your blades, 2. Oiling your blades and, 3. Storing your blades properly.

You will need:

An oil soaked cloth, clipper blade oil, 2 small containers and blade wash of some description.

1. CLEAN YOUR CLIPPER BLADES.

Firstly, clipper blades need to be cleaned periodically while clipping. There is no point in lubricating a dirty, gritty blade; it will still go blunt quickly!

Remove excess fur and grit from around the blade with a stiff brush (similar to a toothbrush). You can blow excess fur from the blade, but expect to get a fair share in your face! Here at Shear Ease we have an air compressor that we use. We don’t expect most people to have one but if you do have one, use it, if you don’t use a stiff brush!

Using something like blade wash. (Something like! It’s not THAT important, washing up liquid and water will do fine) Using a small container, create a pool deep enough to immerse the blades (AND ONLY THE BLADES!). Turn the clipper on, with blade attached. Run the blade in the pool of whatever liquid you choose to use. You should see tiny bits of fur washing from in between the teeth of the blades. Depending on the build-up, the blades should start to run more freely, causing the motor to run slightly easier and quicker.

Wipe the back of the blade with an oil soaked cloth and then follow steps below for oiling them quickly and thoroughly.

“As well as cleaning blades during clipping, blades should be thoroughly cleaned after clipping.”

It is possible to take clipper blades apart, this will enable to clean your blades very well, but is time consuming and if you not sure how to put them back together properly, you may end up stopping the blade working totally! We will soon have a video guide showing you how to re assemble a clipper blade but until then, just in case, don’t take them apart unless you know what you are doing!

The idea is to remove any kind of grit, fur and build up from the cutting surfaces of the blades. Use anything such as washing up liquid, blade wash, plain water. Use a stiff brush (an old toothbrush is ideal) to brush any or all of the above from the cutting surfaces. Slide the comb to one side, clean both cutting services, slide the comb the other way and do the same again.

Blades used for surgery would need to be disinfected in the same way as any surgical instrument.

DO NOT LEAVE BLADES WITHOUT OIL AFTER CLEANING! YOU MAY RETURN IN A DAY OR SO TO FIND SPECKS OF RUST ON YOUR BLADES! CLEANING YOUR BLADES IS JUST THE FIRST THING TO DO. CLIPPERS MUST BE PROTECTED FROM RUST (WITH OIL) STRAIGHT AFTER CLEANING.

2. KEEP BLADES LUBRICATED AT ALL TIMES.

Oil means less friction. Less friction means less heat. Excess heat can cause clipper rash and an unhappy animal! Friction also causes blades to go blunt quicker.

Good quality clipper oil is best. Most clipper manufacturers have their own clipper blade oil. Use this. Many people use WD-40 as a convenient alternative. As a spray, WD-40 is too thin and evaporates quickly. Oil can be used as an effective wash, WD-40 in spray can form cannot be effective as a wash and actually fur and dirt stick to it, having an adverse effect. WD-40 in a pot, used as a dunk is no good either. WD-40 is so thin it gets into the mechanisms of a clipper and washes out heavy grease in time. This will destroy clipper in time.

If you are in a situation where the amount of oil you use doesn’t bother you, then, using a small container, create a pool deep enough to immerse the blades (AND ONLY THE BLADES!). Turn the clipper on, with blade attached. Run the blade in the pool of oil.

If you wish to conserve your oil, tip some in between the teeth and at the back of the cutter while the blade is running, basically wherever the two blades come in contact with each other.

Do not leave the clipper blades to soak in blade wash because of the high water content, try to wipe the clipper blade dry as much as possible.

3. STORING YOUR BLADES.

After being washed and lubricated for the final time before storing them, they should be wrapped in an oil soaked cloth and stored in a moisture free area. If a blade goes rusty, it WILL go blunt VERY quickly. Rust won’t be any good in a surgical environment either.
 

Kaylum

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I clip all year round, but make sure your horse has been washed the night before, makes clipping so much easier.

Brilliant thread btw.
 

Shear Ease

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I clip all year round, but make sure your horse has been washed the night before, makes clipping so much easier.

Brilliant thread btw.

You have hit the nail square on the head with that one. It doesn't matter who sharpens your blades, what oil you use or which blades you use, if you clip a dirty horse, they will go blunt quickly. All the above reccomendations are somewhat irellevant when considering the cleanliness of the furr being clipped. Your blades will do one clip on a dirty horse, but clip the Queens horses and they will last a very very long time!
 

NOISYGIRL

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Most "drip type oils" are around SAE 30 which means the oil is not to thin and will stay on the blade for longer. Spray oils can also be SAE 30, but the propellant that pushes the oil out of the can (more often than not liquid butane) will thin the oil to a degree. With lighter duty clippers, I tend to find the spray is fine, but on bigger machines, such as Lister Lasers, Wolseley Harriers, liveryman Mustangs I tend to err on the side of the drip can oil.

On most occasions though the problem is exacerbated by far too tight tension on the blades, which causes heat which evaporates the oil faster and then gets hotter still.Sharp blades cut at correct tension and help avoid overheating, the choice is yours.

Happy clipping...

The Engineer

Thank you, thats great to know, I think I have a problem with tensioning, it was great when they came back from servicing, the blades were all attached and I didn't have to do it lol, but since using them had to take them apart to clean. I was always told to tighten up the nut thing, then unscrew one and a half turns but its really hart when there is no marker to go by, I think I'll put a dot on them with a marker pen, I have Liveryman Arena clippers.

I tip I learned is that bath your horse properly and don't use a no rinse wash, I did this once and nearly couldn't finish the clip, the oil in the wash (Lavender type one) because you don't rinse it was stuck in the hair so blunted the blades pretty quick, horse wasn't impressed
 

Bethie

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I'd be interested to know what the professionals consider to be the best way/product to disinfect blades please, and what to do with the machine itself to disinfect, if anything can be done. I don't want to bring any unnecessary infection back to my yard, or to be responsible for infecting any clients horses, but also worry about killing my blades and machines!
 

Shear Ease

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I'd be interested to know what the professionals consider to be the best way/product to disinfect blades please, and what to do with the machine itself to disinfect, if anything can be done. I don't want to bring any unnecessary infection back to my yard, or to be responsible for infecting any clients horses, but also worry about killing my blades and machines!

The best thing for the job is Ethicon Strerilising Fluid. This sterilises and also contains rust inhibitors. I am not sure whether this can be bought over the counter. Dampen a cloth with neat ethicon and wipe down the blades and the clipper. Do not uses excessive amounts as, as with any liquid, this poses a significant risk of electric shock. You should make sure clippers are dry before you use them. Also, as with any thin liquid, applied too liberally, it will wash the grease from the gear and bearrings, which could lead to expensive repairs. As I am now retired from equine veterinary work, I am not sure if the stuff is still available. If not, any sterilising fuild with rust inhibitors will do just nicely. You must lubricate the blades with proper clipper oil after sterilising them. Hope that helps!
 

Horsemad12

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I have some liveryman trimmers that don't trim!!!

Does anyone know if it is worth getting them looked at against the cost of a new set?

I presume the listed places for getting blades sharpened also do servicing?
 

Shear Ease

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Which liveryman trimmers are they?

If they just need the blades sharpening then it should not be a problem.

Things get expensive when any clipper/trimmer is either dropped or dead. If your trimmer still has life but is just not cutting then it is my educated guess that it would be worth getting them serviced and blades sharpened.

If it is a small trimmer, then there may be very little charge for them. Most companies have a large clipper price and a small clipper price. Small clippers are around £18-£30 to service I believe.

Some will fix a trimmer for the cost of postage, parts and labour that reflects the time it takes to fix one (i.e. reduced), if you tell them what trimmer you have, you may find it fits into the trimmer category..if they have one!

Hope that helps!
 

Django Pony

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On your arena, if you are tightening the tension down tight,then one and a half turns back....this is far too tight! That is correct tension for a Lister, but not an Arena or a Wolseley, see the link below for correct tension tip watch all three videos.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBsCMT00NJI&sns=em

Do you have any tips for getting the correct tension on Heiniger clippers? I have the Heiniger Handys.
Thanks! :)
 

TheEngineer

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Heinegars tend to give good results at quite light tension, however getting the knack of setting them up is a little more tricky.I usually fit the blades,oil,then turn the tension nut down until it meets resistance.Then start the clipper and apply about a quarter turn until the noise from the blades changes. It is also imperative to check the drive block is in place and the spring arms do not have worn holes where the blade cutter drive casting fits as this will cause problems.
 

Dexydoodle

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I've been borrowing a friends clippers for the last year, and am looking at getting my own this year cos my rather hairy cob needs her legs clipped regularly and I think its about time. The pair i'm using currently are Dextella - a bit noisy but that doesn't bother my horse, having looked at them they're a lot cheaper than the 'big name' brands. Have you got any opinions on them - or any recommendations of anything else that won't break my bank account - had a look at some of the Heinegers and they're rather out of my budget......
 

Django Pony

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I've been borrowing a friends clippers for the last year, and am looking at getting my own this year cos my rather hairy cob needs her legs clipped regularly and I think its about time. The pair i'm using currently are Dextella - a bit noisy but that doesn't bother my horse, having looked at them they're a lot cheaper than the 'big name' brands. Have you got any opinions on them - or any recommendations of anything else that won't break my bank account - had a look at some of the Heinegers and they're rather out of my budget......

I got my Heinigers on eBay for £85!! I had them serviced and put a new set of blades on, they're fab! Worth keeping your eyes open on Ebay! :)
 

galaxy

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Surprised you had trouble with Stockshop, as alongside HCS, Clippersharp and Clippers Hg,I would have said they were normally pretty good. They had the same sharpening machine as Eddie Palin uses, as far as I am aware. Eddie has been taken over by a firm in Northern Ireland called Agrihealth, so I am sure you could still post your blades to them if you were pleased with their service.

I send mine to Wolesley now. I used to use HCS. Then 1 year I sent my clippers and blades (everything to them) for service and sharpening. Came back..... wouldn't clip. Phoned them, they told me to post them back (cost well over £10 postage) and they discovered they have "forgotten" to sharpen my blades!!! even though they had charged me for them! Not very happy and they didn't refund me my postage for their mistake.
 

Janette

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You can get some good deals from eBay if you are careful. I bought my Liveryman Mustangs for £150 5 years ago and they have never given me a moment's trouble.

Thankyou for the idea of looking on You tube for tensioning..... I'm never sure if I've got it right.
 
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