DabDab
Thinks the luddites had a point...
Thank you for that.
Every time I get on any horse, my own that I ride all the time or a new horse I have never sat on before, I do the same thing. The same first very simple exercise to ask them to be light off my leg and let them know that I will be light in return.
The exercise couldn't be simpler.
Get on. Wait at a halt and the number one most important thing is to assess your own position as you stand there. I tend to always lift my knees away from the saddle, up and then let them hang back down again. This opens my hip and makes sure my leg is a/ positioned correctly and b/ the correct part of my calf is in contact with the horse. If I am tipped slightly forward or back, I will realise it as soon as I open my hips, so that's the seat taken care of. Then I do a shoulder roll or two, and make sure I am sitting tall and light in my seat.
So, before you even ask the horse to walk, you have set yourself up for better success by making it easier for the horse to carry and listen to you.
The actual exercise that I use to get the horse off the leg is lots and lots of walk-halt-walk transitions. They are not simple though. You need to see this exercise as being one of the most important of the entire session. What you do in these first few minutes can dictate the whole session, so take it seriously and concentrate.
When you have your position sorted and are happy, take a long and relaxed contact on the reins and ask the horse to walk on by doing no more than flexing the calf muscle. Don't be fooled into thinking the horse won't feel this. They can feel a fly land on them, they can feel your muscle contract!. If you get any forward movement at all....even a really half hearted transition into walk, allow forward with the hand and have a neutral seat that just moves with the motion and give the horse a rub on the wither with your fingers. Walk just three or four strides, take a deep breath in and as you breathe out, tighten your core muscles and think halt. If the horse doesn't halt, just back it up with the reins just enough to get the halt. As soon as you get the halt, relax the rein and your core muscles and give another little rub on the withers and a "good girl". Count to three and ask for a walk again. Same thing, begin by asking with nothing more than flexing the calf muscle. Again, any forward movement should be rewarded instantly with a little rub on the wither.
Now...if you ask for a walk with a flex of the calf muscle and the horse doesn't move, don't bother nagging with the leg, but back it up with a quick sharp tap with a schooling whip. I prefer to use a schooling whip effectively a handful of times in a session than nag with the leg constantly.
So, if the horse doesn't go off a flexion of your calf muscle, immediately back it up and when the horse moves forward, immediately reward with a giving hand a a rub on the wither and even a "good girl". Even if the horse goes off in trot or canter...let them do it, still reward them and bring them back after 6-8 strides. We don't want to pull them straight back. This is very basic stuff. We are teaching the horse to go off light aids, so anything forward that they give should be rewarded. If they give us forward and we pull them straight back because we want walk and they gave trot, we are, in effect, punishing the forward movement that we want from them. You'll have a confused horse and be back at square one.
So...we make it black and white for them. They go forward off a light aid and if they decide they can't be bothered, you back it up in no uncertain terms. Get the walk, reward it. Get the halt, reward it. Keep the leg on the horses side throughout the walk, but keep it quiet.
I find with many horses that if you give a leg aid and then take the leg away when they move forward, you can create a horse that is overly sensitive to the leg. That can be just as difficult to ride as a horse that is numb to the leg.
What we want to do is create a harmonious balance. I get everyone I teach to do this and as I said, I do it myself every time I ride.
I will do all the normal warm up exercises of circles, serpentines, figure of eights, lateral work on circles and straight lines. I just do it all taking no more than 9 strides at a time. I also mix that up. So I'll do a couple of walks that are 9 strides, then a couple of walks that are 3 or 4 strides. Same with the halts. I'll do a couple of halts that are 2 seconds and a couple that are 5 or 8 seconds and keep mixing it up.
If you do this lightly and back up your leg effectively, you should have a horse that is light, responsive and waiting for your next command. You should be able to set up for a leg yield, give the aid once and the horse remain in the movement until you ask it to go straight again.
After 3-4 minutes of this in walk, which is usually all it takes, you can do the same in trot, doing to start with trot-walk-trot transitions, then trot-halt-trot transitions. Keep rewarding, keep the contact kind and I don't put any emphasis on where the head is in this work. This is about setting up for what is to come, not expecting to have it straight away.
When you feel the horse is responsive and listening to you, listen back....let the horse tell you when it is ready to do more work. All horses are different, so if your horse takes 20 minutes to be ready for real work, so be it. If it is ready after 10 minutes, so be it.
I always like to have a break in a session. So, if I do 20 minutes warm up which is what my TB likes, I'll then do 10 minutes work, 3 minutes of repeating the initial walk-halt-walk exercise, but with much longer walks and then 10-15 minutes of work again before colling down.
I hope all of that made sense. I am of the opinion that I like to have a horse decide for itself to work with me, not be forced into working for me. That doesn't mean they should get an easy ride...unless it is a baby, they know what the aids are so you can be demanding that they listen properly...but when they do, reward pays dividends later in the session.
Can I advise caution - I train my horses to be this light off the leg, because that's how I like them as it gives me a lot to work with in schooling. BUT, it's not for everyone. My youngster is naturally very dead to the leg and I have trained him in the first few months of his education to go off the tense of a leg muscle, which although ideal for me, if someone was to get on him who didn't have such light legs, or, god forbid, was carrying a whip they would get mad running and probably bucking. Furthermore, if my horse was intended for a jumping career I probably would not have taught him to be so sharp, because you can't always be as careful with your leg around a course of jumps and having a horse that is that sharp can be a real pain in the bum.
There's nothing wrong with making your horse sharper off the leg, but you have to be realistic as to how light an aid you actually want it to go off and use that as the aid in the training.