PurBee
Well-Known Member
thank you for the advice, good idea re the grass seed I will get some - re sprinkling over any bare patches , would it help to break up the soil before the seed? although maybe not with the horses on there, have always thought breaking up the soil and horses wasn’t a good idea.
I’ve been looking at getting the arenamate grass Harrow to help remove thatch on the field, rather than lugging around a chain harrow).
that is good to know, I will probably try and split it up in that case to allow parts to rest and recover to some extent and keep them off it more over the winter.
I use a similar design harrow to the arenamate harrow. The tines are adjustable so you can lightly scratch, or do a deep harrow.
The field you are planning on spraying, i would harrow after spraying…if thats the field you were thinking of harrowing. The harrowing can bring-up a lot to the surface, dropping clumps of thatch on top, depending on how much thatch you have. So, best to spray a upright growing field without mulch/thatch sitting on top of the grass.
With harrowing, if there’s a lot of thatch, i do long lines of the field - stop at one end of a line, near edge of fence, when the tines are full of thatch and shake-off the thatch - i use a mini tractor with PTO arm lift so can wobble the harrow up and down. Then i start a new run with clean tines, and stop at the other end of the line, shake off the thatch. This method stops the thatch being distributed all over the field on top of the grass. A method i use if i want to graze the field soon after harrowing.
With a field i can rest for a few weeks before needing to graze it, i’ll harrow all over and allow the thatch to disperse on top, and dry-up/rot.
With the grass seed - if you have large bald patches of 30cm or more, you could scatter seed and gently hand rake the patches to help mix the seed into the soil a bit. Most parts you could scatter seed and find the horses walking over it will help press the seed into the soil to germinate. Over-seeding is a popular technique of simply scattering seed on a thinning field and the seed will be washed down to soil level by rain or animal foot traffic, and germinate. It’s a way of re-seeding some grasses you like, without having to start from scratch with a field.
You’ll get there. I know how disheartening it can be to discover horses eat plants that arent good for them, and their instincts arent so fine tuned to be avoiding these plants. Many fields used for cows, have as a preference to that industry, lots of clover purposefully sown. Clover has its toxin issues aswell as nutritional density issues for horses, so is the worst plant that makes such fields incompatible for other grazing animals, especially horses. Yet i find, horses absolutely adore clover, and will make a concerted effort to eat any as close to the soil as they can find! I have some growing on rocky paths and my horses will squish their mouths and tight graze the small patches of clover.
With your circumstances and needs right now for your horses to be back at home with you, spray with a selective herbicide would enable the fastest method to get rid of the weeds. It will help your research of their health status moving forward, as the clover and other weeds will be eliminated by the spray, improving the chances of much healthier grazing for them.
A device that is handy to have, is what i call ‘the dragon’ - its a kerosene fuelled large flame weed killer. The flame is under pressure and roars like a lion when its in use! These devices can be used if you find a clump of unwanted weeds around the land that you want to immediately kill without having to weed them out. The flame can kill them to a crisp and ash, immediately neutralising all toxins of any toxic plants you find. This method is useful for a few patches you may find here and there, but too time-consuming if you have 10+acres and lots of weeds.
Hay storage is another subject. The best piece of equipment any forage feeder needs is a moisture tester. 30 quid from ebay/amazon made in china…or 200 quid made in china with a john deere sticker on it! ? The accuracy of cheaper units compared to more expensive devices is very similar.
When buying hay, any bales that show more than 20% moisture will be impossible to store no matter the method of storage. Thats enough moisture for moulds to be growing within the bale. I prefer 15% or below moisture for hay.
Fresh baled hay will show higher readings, and then once ‘cured’/allowed to breathe for a few weeks after baling, should settle below 20%.
These figures are the difference between having mould-free hay and hay you need to soak. One lot of hay i got, round bales, stored for 1 year, were 24%. I risked it - and had to soak the whole lot, as inside there was a musty smell, and if i‘m sneezing after nosing-it — i know its no good for horses.
Haylage 40-55% is preferred for feeding. We can get away with feeding outside these values, but it might be slightly over or under-fermented. Under-fermented means we have to allow for higher sugar content, especially for ryegrass haylage. Over-fermented means it’ll be more vinegary/acidic/ensiled, so horse may have gut distress.
The moisture tester is useful to have if feeding haylage too.
Haylage is easier to tell visually if its not good - it tends to grow grey/black mould patches. It smells very weird when off.
When we have a good quality mould-free mixed forage hay/lage supply and a good regularly grazed and rested mixed grass field without too many toxic plants, to graze the horses on, keeping horses is a delight. It’s super easy to keep them, if we can have these 2 aspects of their care managed well. Then we just have to deal with work-induced injuries ?
If youre interested in good quality hay, I enquired with Abbott Wessex hay suppliers in the uk about hay. The lovely old man i spoke with there knew his stuff about hay, and i stressed to him the importance of low moisture/mixed meadow hay. His company scour the uk for good hay suppliers/farmers and so can source whatever you require. I was going to import a truck load here to ireland but the transport costs made it eye-wateringly expensive, 2k, so i didn’t go down that route. But i can recommend a call to them to detail your requirements if you are in the uk - as you’ll be likely to purchase/have delivered a ‘test bale’ before committing to buying tonnes.