Kenzo
Well-Known Member
I have found that ex racers tend to go well when schooling in full cheek french link.
How Can I improve (Schooling) *Pics*
- Thread starter 3Beasties
- Start date
hellspells
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
I don't have a loose ring with a lozenge (at least I don't think I do - I have so many bits I forget what I have got!
) but I do have a full cheek with lozenge, Its gold/copper I think. Do you think I should try this insead?
[/ QUOTE ]
I think its definitly worth a try, I have a armoury of bits and probably a loose ring snaffle with lozenge you could try. I have to play around alot with snaffles with my girlie (thankfully not with her double) as she can be horrendus in some and a dream in others. I really wouldn't up the the gear straight off but play around with some basic bits - often they are happier in these
I don't have a loose ring with a lozenge (at least I don't think I do - I have so many bits I forget what I have got!
[/ QUOTE ]
I think its definitly worth a try, I have a armoury of bits and probably a loose ring snaffle with lozenge you could try. I have to play around alot with snaffles with my girlie (thankfully not with her double) as she can be horrendus in some and a dream in others. I really wouldn't up the the gear straight off but play around with some basic bits - often they are happier in these
3Beasties
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
I think by the look of things your horse has a naturally high head carriage anyway not just because he's an ex racer with the whole giraffe thing going on.
The key to getting an ex racer going well, is to do it from walk and not until are used to coming into a contact and working correctly can you expect it to fall into place in trot....it will just never happen.
Its important that you progress slowly and get the muscles used to working in a different way, once they are don't too too much other 5 minutes and so forth, so eventually every time you school, you can increase the time you expect them to work in better outline, they should be doing this with ease.
Start off walking around as per usual and get warmed up, few stretches and easy bends, then stand and ask your horse to bend his head round to your toe etc and make sure that they are responding to your little squeezes on the rein when asking for the bend without the whole of the horse turning...so your your doing a bit fine tuning on the mouth.
Then working on 20 meter circle in walk, keeping that outside contact and gently sponging the inside rein, don't shorten the reins as this will only cause them to fight back more, you have to do things gradually, your trying to encourage them otherwise they will fight back and hollow up on you, you can easily do this with longer reins than how you would normally ride once they are worked in etc.
Keeping that inside leg on the girth and pushing them out but supporting with the outside leg, you will need to tinker slightly depending on if they start to fall in or out or the circle, every so often very gentle half halts witht that outside rein, just basically to come on try it, as well as keep it nice and slow but with plenty of impulsion they will eventually drop onto a relaxed contact, lots of praise and a slight release will act as a reward, this says to them this is a better place to be, otherwise I will keep asking (sponging) so eventually the penny drops. Now the important thing is you don't over do this, you may only get 5 paces but that is good, then you might get a 5 more giraffe ones, but that is ok because too much and you will make them sore, so each time you school you ask for a bit longer. You want them to work lower so the back end can come underneath and a nice slow active rhythm will develop, which will then mean the horse can work through his back correctly and will in turn work into an outline.
Once you have the walk mastered, you will find the trot will come very easily indeed, just intervals of trot and pleny of transitions.
You really need to keep on top of it every day, yes a change of bit can help a horse accept a contact but really at this stage because the horse has been out of work like you say then the above work everyday will get the results quicker than just changing the bit if your horse already seems reasonably happy in it.
[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks, there's lots of VERY good ideas in there! *wonders how she is going to remember it all*
I think by the look of things your horse has a naturally high head carriage anyway not just because he's an ex racer with the whole giraffe thing going on.
The key to getting an ex racer going well, is to do it from walk and not until are used to coming into a contact and working correctly can you expect it to fall into place in trot....it will just never happen.
Its important that you progress slowly and get the muscles used to working in a different way, once they are don't too too much other 5 minutes and so forth, so eventually every time you school, you can increase the time you expect them to work in better outline, they should be doing this with ease.
Start off walking around as per usual and get warmed up, few stretches and easy bends, then stand and ask your horse to bend his head round to your toe etc and make sure that they are responding to your little squeezes on the rein when asking for the bend without the whole of the horse turning...so your your doing a bit fine tuning on the mouth.
Then working on 20 meter circle in walk, keeping that outside contact and gently sponging the inside rein, don't shorten the reins as this will only cause them to fight back more, you have to do things gradually, your trying to encourage them otherwise they will fight back and hollow up on you, you can easily do this with longer reins than how you would normally ride once they are worked in etc.
Keeping that inside leg on the girth and pushing them out but supporting with the outside leg, you will need to tinker slightly depending on if they start to fall in or out or the circle, every so often very gentle half halts witht that outside rein, just basically to come on try it, as well as keep it nice and slow but with plenty of impulsion they will eventually drop onto a relaxed contact, lots of praise and a slight release will act as a reward, this says to them this is a better place to be, otherwise I will keep asking (sponging) so eventually the penny drops. Now the important thing is you don't over do this, you may only get 5 paces but that is good, then you might get a 5 more giraffe ones, but that is ok because too much and you will make them sore, so each time you school you ask for a bit longer. You want them to work lower so the back end can come underneath and a nice slow active rhythm will develop, which will then mean the horse can work through his back correctly and will in turn work into an outline.
Once you have the walk mastered, you will find the trot will come very easily indeed, just intervals of trot and pleny of transitions.
You really need to keep on top of it every day, yes a change of bit can help a horse accept a contact but really at this stage because the horse has been out of work like you say then the above work everyday will get the results quicker than just changing the bit if your horse already seems reasonably happy in it.
[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks, there's lots of VERY good ideas in there! *wonders how she is going to remember it all*
3Beasties
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I don't have a loose ring with a lozenge (at least I don't think I do - I have so many bits I forget what I have got!
) but I do have a full cheek with lozenge, Its gold/copper I think. Do you think I should try this insead?
[/ QUOTE ]
I think its definitly worth a try, I have a armoury of bits and probably a loose ring snaffle with lozenge you could try. I have to play around alot with snaffles with my girlie (thankfully not with her double) as she can be horrendus in some and a dream in others. I really wouldn't up the the gear straight off but play around with some basic bits - often they are happier in these
[/ QUOTE ]
That would be great thanks. I will have a dig around and a play with what I have over the weekend and see how he goes.
For schooling I don't really want to put him in a stronger bit as I would rather keep that in reserve for hacking and jumping!
[ QUOTE ]
I don't have a loose ring with a lozenge (at least I don't think I do - I have so many bits I forget what I have got!
[/ QUOTE ]
I think its definitly worth a try, I have a armoury of bits and probably a loose ring snaffle with lozenge you could try. I have to play around alot with snaffles with my girlie (thankfully not with her double) as she can be horrendus in some and a dream in others. I really wouldn't up the the gear straight off but play around with some basic bits - often they are happier in these
[/ QUOTE ]
That would be great thanks. I will have a dig around and a play with what I have over the weekend and see how he goes.
For schooling I don't really want to put him in a stronger bit as I would rather keep that in reserve for hacking and jumping!
JessPickle
Well-Known Member
I would agree with the snaffle idea. I have seen a few horses who had such high head carriage in a dutch gag and wouldn't soften at all while in a snaffle they were brilliant. Definetly have to play around with what snaffle you use though. Pickle hates single joints for example and loose rings he pulls into his mouth to evade!! He now goes in a full cheek with lozenge and copper mouthpiece.
Good luck! Also I think this is the first time I have seen pictures of you riding! I only ever see millie and your lovely little jockey
Good luck! Also I think this is the first time I have seen pictures of you riding! I only ever see millie and your lovely little jockey
3Beasties
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Good luck! Also I think this is the first time I have seen pictures of you riding! I only ever see millie and your lovely little jockey
[/ QUOTE ]
These are the first pictures I have posted of me riding - usually I am the one taking pictures so never get any of me. I was so shocked as to how bad we looked that I really needed some advise!
Hopefully by the end of the summer I will be able to do a 'before and after' on me and Charlie!
P.S. Lara and Millie are also far more photogenic then Charlie and I!
Good luck! Also I think this is the first time I have seen pictures of you riding! I only ever see millie and your lovely little jockey
[/ QUOTE ]
These are the first pictures I have posted of me riding - usually I am the one taking pictures so never get any of me. I was so shocked as to how bad we looked that I really needed some advise!
P.S. Lara and Millie are also far more photogenic then Charlie and I!
Brummyrat
Well-Known Member
Your position is fine but looking at the pictures try and keep your thumbs on top, I know its a bit riding school but really if your hands are like fists then there is no flexibility in them at all, if the thumbs are on top you have more chance of keeping the bit moving in his mouth, by moving your fingers slightly, which will encourage him to soften, thats the idea anyway! I would also second the person who said about his back end, when my boy was a bit reluctant to work forward in an outline my instructor got me really booting him forward during one lesson so that I had a swinging trot, if he backed off he had another PC kick, only when he was going forward (after 40 minutes!) did she get me to introduce a few half halts. I found this really helped and even now, years later, if he feels like he's coming back at me I adopt the same technique. You have to have the impulsion before you can have him light in front
BurntontheoutsideTurkey
Well-Known Member
I couldn't agree more, Kenzo. And it doesn't just apply to ex-racers either - there're loads of older horses who are stuck going like this because they've been doing it for years.
Slowing things right down makes it easier for your horse and a hell of a lot easier for you. Don't worry if you spend ages in walk - who cares?
You might find it's easiest to try the flexion in walk, rather than halt - the forward movement helps free the neck a bit - if they're not used to it it can be confusing at halt and they just swing their quarters out instead...
With the flexing, concentrate on keeping your arms and hands elastic - imagine the reins are made of elastic even though they're not, and allow the joints in your fingers and your elbow to be soft (like you're squeezing out a sponge), so that you can keep a contact even if he comes back at you (you can practise this off the horse if you can get a friend to hold the other end of the reins and "be" Charlie). The contact may need to be stronger sometimes than others, if he really won't listen to the bend, but it must always be elastic, not blocking, and the outside rein always needs to be in support as well with half halts - that's your connection to him that'll make him feel secure. I agree with Ridewell that he'll be disorientated by the new things you're asking him so it's important to keep the steady connection in your hand.
I really feel that a horse as established in this way of going as he seems to be needs to learn to relax in his neck before he can properly come through from behind.
Sorry Kenzo if I've repeated loads of what you said - I probably have! Just goes to show that I agree
Slowing things right down makes it easier for your horse and a hell of a lot easier for you. Don't worry if you spend ages in walk - who cares?
You might find it's easiest to try the flexion in walk, rather than halt - the forward movement helps free the neck a bit - if they're not used to it it can be confusing at halt and they just swing their quarters out instead...
With the flexing, concentrate on keeping your arms and hands elastic - imagine the reins are made of elastic even though they're not, and allow the joints in your fingers and your elbow to be soft (like you're squeezing out a sponge), so that you can keep a contact even if he comes back at you (you can practise this off the horse if you can get a friend to hold the other end of the reins and "be" Charlie). The contact may need to be stronger sometimes than others, if he really won't listen to the bend, but it must always be elastic, not blocking, and the outside rein always needs to be in support as well with half halts - that's your connection to him that'll make him feel secure. I agree with Ridewell that he'll be disorientated by the new things you're asking him so it's important to keep the steady connection in your hand.
I really feel that a horse as established in this way of going as he seems to be needs to learn to relax in his neck before he can properly come through from behind.
Sorry Kenzo if I've repeated loads of what you said - I probably have! Just goes to show that I agree
Chumsmum
Well-Known Member
Lots of good advice - I even understand some of the schooling techniques even though my riding is awful
Can't see the photos at work (and I wouldn't have a clue anyway) but would agree with others about having lessons if you can and also get your own back etc checked out if you feel wonky.
Good luck and don't feel down about it
Can't see the photos at work (and I wouldn't have a clue anyway) but would agree with others about having lessons if you can and also get your own back etc checked out if you feel wonky.
Good luck and don't feel down about it
humph
Well-Known Member
When I halt him he sometimes comes down into a nice outline (impatience because I won't let him walk) and I am never sure what to do to let him know that it is what I want. I tend to either give with my hand or ask him to walk on (which is what he wants), if his head goes straight up again I make him halt until it comes back down, then ask him to walk again, etc, etc. Do you think this sound like the right thing to do? I could literally be sat there for hours but maybe I should make a point of doing it one day until he gets the message?
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It's a bit tricky - without wanting to sound as if I'm contradicting myself, in doing it at halt you're only adjusting where he holds his head rather than correcting his way of going. As other posters have said his whole movement needs to be correct to enable him to naturally come round. Where I suggest bending him to each side this is simply to stretch those muscles to enable him to come round. Where I suggest giving the rein, it'll work better when in motion because you are rewarding everything 1. that he's using his back end more, 2. that he's relaxing and finally 3. that his head is dropping.
What you don't want to do is work on the principal of punishment which you could get into by bringing him back to halt when he lifts his head.
To start off with he will find it hard to engage his back legs and drop his head and neck which is why often in a transition a horse will raise it's head. This is simply because the muscle isn't sufficiently stretched, or used to being stretched.
Above all else, try not to knock yourself or feel frustrated when it's not working. Without wanting to sound too corny, see it as a brilliant opportunity to learn.
Kenzo
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
I couldn't agree more, Kenzo. And it doesn't just apply to ex-racers either - there're loads of older horses who are stuck going like this because they've been doing it for years.
Slowing things right down makes it easier for your horse and a hell of a lot easier for you. Don't worry if you spend ages in walk - who cares?
You might find it's easiest to try the flexion in walk, rather than halt - the forward movement helps free the neck a bit - if they're not used to it it can be confusing at halt and they just swing their quarters out instead...
With the flexing, concentrate on keeping your arms and hands elastic - imagine the reins are made of elastic even though they're not, and allow the joints in your fingers and your elbow to be soft (like you're squeezing out a sponge), so that you can keep a contact even if he comes back at you (you can practise this off the horse if you can get a friend to hold the other end of the reins and "be" Charlie). The contact may need to be stronger sometimes than others, if he really won't listen to the bend, but it must always be elastic, not blocking, and the outside rein always needs to be in support as well with half halts - that's your connection to him that'll make him feel secure. I agree with Ridewell that he'll be disorientated by the new things you're asking him so it's important to keep the steady connection in your hand.
I really feel that a horse as established in this way of going as he seems to be needs to learn to relax in his neck before he can properly come through from behind.
Sorry Kenzo if I've repeated loads of what you said - I probably have! Just goes to show that I agree
[/ QUOTE ]
LOL I'm just crap at explaining it all but you seem have put in better words as so it makes sense
I couldn't agree more, Kenzo. And it doesn't just apply to ex-racers either - there're loads of older horses who are stuck going like this because they've been doing it for years.
Slowing things right down makes it easier for your horse and a hell of a lot easier for you. Don't worry if you spend ages in walk - who cares?
You might find it's easiest to try the flexion in walk, rather than halt - the forward movement helps free the neck a bit - if they're not used to it it can be confusing at halt and they just swing their quarters out instead...
With the flexing, concentrate on keeping your arms and hands elastic - imagine the reins are made of elastic even though they're not, and allow the joints in your fingers and your elbow to be soft (like you're squeezing out a sponge), so that you can keep a contact even if he comes back at you (you can practise this off the horse if you can get a friend to hold the other end of the reins and "be" Charlie). The contact may need to be stronger sometimes than others, if he really won't listen to the bend, but it must always be elastic, not blocking, and the outside rein always needs to be in support as well with half halts - that's your connection to him that'll make him feel secure. I agree with Ridewell that he'll be disorientated by the new things you're asking him so it's important to keep the steady connection in your hand.
I really feel that a horse as established in this way of going as he seems to be needs to learn to relax in his neck before he can properly come through from behind.
Sorry Kenzo if I've repeated loads of what you said - I probably have! Just goes to show that I agree
[/ QUOTE ]
LOL I'm just crap at explaining it all but you seem have put in better words as so it makes sense
BurntontheoutsideTurkey
Well-Known Member
Kenzo have PMd you
ForeverBroke_
Well-Known Member
Also, maybe try and widen your hands
If someones not already said it. I find if i narrow my hands Darcy comes right up infront of me and also looks like a bit of a giraffe
I find the wider apart your hands are the more of a triangle you form and they accept the contact a bit better. But could just be me!
Flint12
Well-Known Member
I used to school my lad in the same bit as you. . . then my instructor got on and she just said put him into a loose ring with a snaffle because he grabs hold of it.. . .
The outline is coming now but i have to rember to keep the impulsion there, and to keep my leg on. . . .my problem is that i can be to strong with my right arm so i have to remember to to soften through it. .
Im just having an ability crisis atm lol
But really try a loose ring
The outline is coming now but i have to rember to keep the impulsion there, and to keep my leg on. . . .my problem is that i can be to strong with my right arm so i have to remember to to soften through it. .
Im just having an ability crisis atm lol
But really try a loose ring
3Beasties
Well-Known Member
Thank you all for you brilliant advice, I can't reply individually to you all as I would be here all night!
I have just been for a really nice hack on my friends 5yo, 14.2hh coblet (major pony squishing going on
). He was sooooo Comfy. The weird thing was his saddle was only 17" which I though I would feel huge in but I actually found it really comfortable and was much more secure in my seat (I have ridden him before but never paid much attention to his saddle). My lower leg position was tons better as well! Do you think my saddle could possibly be too big? It's 18" at the moment and I am 6'1".
I have got tons of useful tips and advice that I am looking forward to putting in to action tomorrow. We have a lot to work on but I now feel much more positive about it. Hopefully in a few months I will be able to post some 'before and after' piccy's.
I'm going to change his bit tomorrow and try him in a loose ring snaffle, if he doesn't like that I will try him in the full cheek with lozenge and if he doesn't I will be back on here for some more suggestions!
Carrot stretched will now be a daily ritual, Charlie will be pleased!!
I have just been for a really nice hack on my friends 5yo, 14.2hh coblet (major pony squishing going on
I have got tons of useful tips and advice that I am looking forward to putting in to action tomorrow. We have a lot to work on but I now feel much more positive about it. Hopefully in a few months I will be able to post some 'before and after' piccy's.
I'm going to change his bit tomorrow and try him in a loose ring snaffle, if he doesn't like that I will try him in the full cheek with lozenge and if he doesn't I will be back on here for some more suggestions!
Carrot stretched will now be a daily ritual, Charlie will be pleased!!
spotty_pony
...
Tips on your position: You need to ride with more of a bend through your elbows and keep your thumbs to the top, you should also carry your hands a bit higher. You also need to keep your shoulders back. You leg position is good though!
Is your horse strong? If not you could try a loose ring french link snaffle or a snaffle bit with copper in it to help him to salivate. If he is strong you could consider trying a waterford snaffle. What does he do when he refuses to accept the bit? Does he lean on your hands?
Hope this helps.
Is your horse strong? If not you could try a loose ring french link snaffle or a snaffle bit with copper in it to help him to salivate. If he is strong you could consider trying a waterford snaffle. What does he do when he refuses to accept the bit? Does he lean on your hands?
Hope this helps.
3Beasties
Well-Known Member
My leg position seems to go a bit wild in canter, my lower leg goes forward which I think is my automatic defense system for when he spooks and bucks, I need to work on this though!
Here is a picture just to show you what I mean (not a very good angle sorry)
He can get quite strong but I can just about manage him in a snaffle in the school, out hacking (especially in company) I use something stronger.
He puts his head right up, opens his mouth, will try and get his tongue over the bit and also crosses his jaw!
This is where I am going to sound really stupid (or stupider then I already sound!) but I never really understand what people mean when they ask if he leans
Could anyone please explain?
Here is a picture just to show you what I mean (not a very good angle sorry)
He can get quite strong but I can just about manage him in a snaffle in the school, out hacking (especially in company) I use something stronger.
He puts his head right up, opens his mouth, will try and get his tongue over the bit and also crosses his jaw!
This is where I am going to sound really stupid (or stupider then I already sound!) but I never really understand what people mean when they ask if he leans
BurntontheoutsideTurkey
Well-Known Member
Would you be comfortable letting your stirrups down a few holes when you're in the school? If you've got moveable knee blocks on your saddle you could try moving them back to stabilise your leg position when it's longer (that's what I do with my GP and it's surprisingly good). With a longer leg your lower leg would be less inclined to shoot forward (or back). You can pull the muscle inside the thigh back with your hand so your leg lies flatter on the flap (does that make sense??). Use your core muscles rather than your stirrups to balance yourself against his forward movement.
A drop noseband might be worth a try at some point - should help keep the bit stable in his mouth and help him accept it - but you've obviously got plenty to consider already!
No one's ever explained leaning to me either, but I've always thought of it as when they put their head down (or even when in an "outline") and - well - just lean on the bit like you'd lean against a wall - not snatching, just a constant heavy weight in your hands and no response to a squeeze or a tweak on the rein. They don't have to be going fast, they can do it in walk. Probably not happening in your case as he puts his head up. Someone may like to correct me on this though!
Hope this helps! And good luck!
A drop noseband might be worth a try at some point - should help keep the bit stable in his mouth and help him accept it - but you've obviously got plenty to consider already!
No one's ever explained leaning to me either, but I've always thought of it as when they put their head down (or even when in an "outline") and - well - just lean on the bit like you'd lean against a wall - not snatching, just a constant heavy weight in your hands and no response to a squeeze or a tweak on the rein. They don't have to be going fast, they can do it in walk. Probably not happening in your case as he puts his head up. Someone may like to correct me on this though!
Hope this helps! And good luck!
3Beasties
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Would you be comfortable letting your stirrups down a few holes when you're in the school? If you've got moveable knee blocks on your saddle you could try moving them back to stabilise your leg position when it's longer (that's what I do with my GP and it's surprisingly good). With a longer leg your lower leg would be less inclined to shoot forward (or back). You can pull the muscle inside the thigh back with your hand so your leg lies flatter on the flap (does that make sense??). Use your core muscles rather than your stirrups to balance yourself against his forward movement.
[/ QUOTE ]
Yep think I do need to have a play around with my stirrups as I do tend to ride quite short. Moving the knee blocks also sounds like a great idea.
[ QUOTE ]
A drop noseband might be worth a try at some point - should help keep the bit stable in his mouth and help him accept it - but you've obviously got plenty to consider already!
[/ QUOTE ]
Unfortunately I can't use any type of nose band on him except for a cavesson, if he can't open his mouth he panics and will rear so it's just not worth the risk
[ QUOTE ]
No one's ever explained leaning to me either, but I've always thought of it as when they put their head down (or even when in an "outline") and - well - just lean on the bit like you'd lean against a wall - not snatching, just a constant heavy weight in your hands and no response to a squeeze or a tweak on the rein. They don't have to be going fast, they can do it in walk. Probably not happening in your case as he puts his head up. Someone may like to correct me on this though!
[/ QUOTE ]
That's exactly what I though but got a bit confused when someone asked me if he leaned. If that's what it means then no he doesn't.
[ QUOTE ]
Hope this helps! And good luck!
[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks!
Would you be comfortable letting your stirrups down a few holes when you're in the school? If you've got moveable knee blocks on your saddle you could try moving them back to stabilise your leg position when it's longer (that's what I do with my GP and it's surprisingly good). With a longer leg your lower leg would be less inclined to shoot forward (or back). You can pull the muscle inside the thigh back with your hand so your leg lies flatter on the flap (does that make sense??). Use your core muscles rather than your stirrups to balance yourself against his forward movement.
[/ QUOTE ]
Yep think I do need to have a play around with my stirrups as I do tend to ride quite short. Moving the knee blocks also sounds like a great idea.
[ QUOTE ]
A drop noseband might be worth a try at some point - should help keep the bit stable in his mouth and help him accept it - but you've obviously got plenty to consider already!
[/ QUOTE ]
Unfortunately I can't use any type of nose band on him except for a cavesson, if he can't open his mouth he panics and will rear so it's just not worth the risk
[ QUOTE ]
No one's ever explained leaning to me either, but I've always thought of it as when they put their head down (or even when in an "outline") and - well - just lean on the bit like you'd lean against a wall - not snatching, just a constant heavy weight in your hands and no response to a squeeze or a tweak on the rein. They don't have to be going fast, they can do it in walk. Probably not happening in your case as he puts his head up. Someone may like to correct me on this though!
[/ QUOTE ]
That's exactly what I though but got a bit confused when someone asked me if he leaned. If that's what it means then no he doesn't.
[ QUOTE ]
Hope this helps! And good luck!
[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks!
BurntontheoutsideTurkey
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Unfortunately I can't use any type of nose band on him except for a cavesson, if he can't open his mouth he panics and will rear so it's just not worth the risk
Fair enough! Keeps it simple at least. And you'll know that when he doesn't open his mouth it's cos of your riding, not a gadget, and you can bask in the glow
Focus on keeping your hands very soft and elastic, so that he has less reason to open his mouth. Do you find your hands move in rising trot?
Unfortunately I can't use any type of nose band on him except for a cavesson, if he can't open his mouth he panics and will rear so it's just not worth the risk
Fair enough! Keeps it simple at least. And you'll know that when he doesn't open his mouth it's cos of your riding, not a gadget, and you can bask in the glow
Focus on keeping your hands very soft and elastic, so that he has less reason to open his mouth. Do you find your hands move in rising trot?
3Beasties
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Unfortunately I can't use any type of nose band on him except for a cavesson, if he can't open his mouth he panics and will rear so it's just not worth the risk
[/ QUOTE ]
Fair enough! Keeps it simple at least. And you'll know that when he doesn't open his mouth it's cos of your riding, not a gadget, and you can bask in the glow
Focus on keeping your hands very soft and elastic, so that he has less reason to open his mouth. Do you find your hands move in rising trot?
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TBH I think opening his mouth is just one of his quirks that he will always have!
I did have some elastic inserts added to my reins but I took them off as I wasn't sure they were helping, I may put them back on though! I need to work on the hands! I don't think they move in Trot, have never really noticed anyway, will make sure that they don't tomorrow!
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Unfortunately I can't use any type of nose band on him except for a cavesson, if he can't open his mouth he panics and will rear so it's just not worth the risk
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Fair enough! Keeps it simple at least. And you'll know that when he doesn't open his mouth it's cos of your riding, not a gadget, and you can bask in the glow
Focus on keeping your hands very soft and elastic, so that he has less reason to open his mouth. Do you find your hands move in rising trot?
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TBH I think opening his mouth is just one of his quirks that he will always have!
I did have some elastic inserts added to my reins but I took them off as I wasn't sure they were helping, I may put them back on though! I need to work on the hands! I don't think they move in Trot, have never really noticed anyway, will make sure that they don't tomorrow!
GDB
Well-Known Member
To me it looks like you have hold of the reins but you dont have a contact. I had a giraffe and I had to be quite clever with my hands, almost a constant tweeking to keep his concentration on me... we got there in the end....
rara007
Well-Known Member
What does he do when he gets a contact? In these pictures he doesn't really have a contact to work into onto a nicer outline, if he doesn't have the quality of contact he can't be expected to have self carriage, or he may not be trusting the contact enough.
I'm tempted to say hand up, plently of inside leg and work on lateral bending to ask him to start softening, but you might already be doing this, or he may hate it so
I'm tempted to say hand up, plently of inside leg and work on lateral bending to ask him to start softening, but you might already be doing this, or he may hate it so
3Beasties
Well-Known Member
He just hollows!
Have established tonight though that I need to have more of a contact (will be getting some continental reins to make this more consistent and even), I need to get him going forward more of my leg, do lots of transitions and circles to get him listening and bending. I'm also going to do daily carrot stretches to try and loosen him up a bit!
Oh and I need to work on my hands!
Lot's, lots more I need to work on but hopefully if I keep working with him he will start to improve, whether he likes it or not!!
Have established tonight though that I need to have more of a contact (will be getting some continental reins to make this more consistent and even), I need to get him going forward more of my leg, do lots of transitions and circles to get him listening and bending. I'm also going to do daily carrot stretches to try and loosen him up a bit!
Oh and I need to work on my hands!
Lot's, lots more I need to work on but hopefully if I keep working with him he will start to improve, whether he likes it or not!!
rara007
Well-Known Member
Good luck
3Beasties
Well-Known Member
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Good luck
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Thanks, I need it!
Good luck
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Thanks, I need it!
Brummyrat
Well-Known Member
I would also suggest as other have, maybe trying a snaffle with a losenge, I used to ride mine in a hanging cheek when I wanted to do a bit of dressage and i'd been used to riding in a double bridle! It worked in the control department but he wasnt exactly soft in the mouth, I then tried a neue schule and the difference was amazing, he literally drooled with it in and still does to this day. I jump him in a pelham and its a totally different feel, I can stop and turn him but I could never school in it. But its what suits the horse, my friend does proper grown up dressage and her horse hated her neue schule! Annoying beasts aren't they! Good luck, and remember it doesnt come overnight, it took bloomin years with my boy!
3Beasties
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I want to keep him in a simple snaffle for schooling but I am going to have a play around with bits next week. I might try and get a KK or a Neue Schule from a bit bank as I have heard lots of great things about them.