Leather Conditioner Recipe

Lyle said:
Wow! Thank you Oz, I made a batch of this up today. I was so pleased with how cheaply I could get the ingredients and with how much it produced. I've done my saddle, 2 bridles and a few other sundries. All the bridle work has come up superb, even the cheap noseband! My saddle was a little trickier, being double grain leather, there's a bit of white in the grain. I'll have a go with a tooth brush tomorrow.

Quick question, what do you recommend using as a quick wipe over to remove dust/mud to make tack presentable, without having to do a proper condition?
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I use only a mild solution of fairy liquid (washing up liquid) and warm water, then rinse with a wet cloth with just warm water on.
Just keep an eye on the leather as it dries out it's not too dry and if it is apply a little condition and rub in.
When I have had hard, muddy yucky leather in for repairs first thing I do is chuck it in a bucket of warm water with the washing up liquid, leave it for a few mins then gently use a sponge or soft brush to get the mud, sweat and crud off. Then chuck it in plain warm water in another bucket to rinse, then hang it up over my workshop door (not in the sun).Before it gets too dry I use a little leather conditioner on it as the washing will have removed some of the fats that you need to keep the leather in good condition.
Just think of the leather as your own skin, no not saying you look weathered ! but when you wash your hands a lot they sometimes get dry don't they?
You may put a moisturiser on of some sorts to make them soft again?
Same principles apply to your leather.
Oz
 
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twiggy2 said:
saddle and bridle have come up lovely, Thanks Oz

Will be doing boots and chaps today, I have nice soft hands today too.
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Glad it's worked for you, it really DOES soften your hands doesn't it?
One lady told me she even went through the shower and her hands were still soft afterwards.
Maybe I ought to sell it as hand cream too!
If chaps are suede don't use it, only use it on leather.
Oz
 
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I have read on another forum (USA) that one guy dunks his tack in 5 gallons of harness oil for 48 hours, then leaves it draining and drying infront of his furnace!
Another one buried his tack in the sand in his backyard overnight to "soften" it"
I tried to tell them this wasn't a good idea and why it wasn't but got shouted down, you can only try to help some people can't you!
Oz
 
Can this be used on WOW saddles? Someone told me that I should never put anything on the seat as its already ingrained with something (although it looks like regular normal leather to me...).
 
MagicMelon said:
Can this be used on WOW saddles? Someone told me that I should never put anything on the seat as its already ingrained with something (although it looks like regular normal leather to me...).
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Never tried it on a WOW, if it's veg tanned leather it will be absorbed, try a small test area out of view if possible first and please tell me what the result is as I'd like to know.
:)
 
Where are peeps getting their beeswax, and how much are you buying? I haven't looked at lard and dripping pack sizes yet.
We have some beeswax from our hives but not much - our son uses it to make furniture polish.
 
I've ordered some from a supplier on Amazon ... just searched Bees Wax and it appeared. Buying 5 bars totalling 150gms in weight, which I'll use and see how far it goes. (still waiting for it to be delivered though ...!)
 
Hi Oz. What would you for an old but quality set of black heavy horse harness? I have bought a set which is a bit unloved and dry. Everything is in good condition for a starter set. I was told to use boot polish but I can't see that feeding the leather. It will be used for decorated harness classes (turnout) so I can see why they use boot polish. Do you have any ancient tips from heavy horse people about how they look after their harness? Would your recipe be suitable to bring this back to life? Sorry for all the questions but this thread is very interesting.
 
Mrs Santa said:
I've ordered some from a supplier on Amazon ... just searched Bees Wax and it appeared. Buying 5 bars totalling 150gms in weight, which I'll use and see how far it goes. (still waiting for it to be delivered though ...!)
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That's where I got mine. A little goes a long way.:)
 
scrat said:
Hi Oz. What would you for an old but quality set of black heavy horse harness? I have bought a set which is a bit unloved and dry. Everything is in good condition for a starter set. I was told to use boot polish but I can't see that feeding the leather. It will be used for decorated harness classes (turnout) so I can see why they use boot polish. Do you have any ancient tips from heavy horse people about how they look after their harness? Would your recipe be suitable to bring this back to life? Sorry for all the questions but this thread is very interesting.
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NEVER use boot polish on veg tanned leather, we were taught at College it seals the leather so doesn't allow any more moisture in only out, eventually the leather breaks.
This recipe is ok for Harness, I used my own version which is slightly different on friend's singles harness, brought it up lovely. BUT you'll need an old toothbrush to melt it into the stitching.
Oz
 
cremedemonthe said:
NEVER use boot polish on veg tanned leather, we were taught at College it seals the leather so doesn't allow any more moisture in only out, eventually the leather breaks.
This recipe is ok for Harness, I used my own version which is slightly different on friend's singles harness, brought it up lovely. BUT you'll need an old toothbrush to melt it into the stitching.
Oz
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Thanks Oz
 
scrat said:
Thanks Oz
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I made this earlier!
I use the leather conditioner on this when needs be, keeps it nice,Oz

heavyhorseploughingbridle.jpg
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quizzie said:
I asked the same question a while ago, after a horse had a reaction to a different saddle cleaner/soap, & they sent me this:


Ingredients of Effax Lederbalsam:

DESTILLATES (PETROLEUM) HYDROTREATED LIGHT PARAFFINIC
PETROLATUM
SOLVENT-REFINED LIGHT AND HEAVY PARAFFINICS
PARAFFIN
HYDROGENATED MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX
CERA MICROCRISTALLINA
LANOLIN
PERSEA GRATISSIMA (AVOCADO) OIL
CERA ALBA
PARFUM
CI 12700
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Further to your post about ingredients of Effax I wondered what CI 12700 is. It seems to be a yellow type of dye to make the product look yellow I suppose as Effax hasn't good a good dose of beeswax to make it yellow naturally.I think it's important information for anyone who uses this product.

Here's the info :
Dyes: Solvent soluble powders

Fat
Selected fat dyes are included in at least one of the authorised use lists for the EU. USA or Japan.
Especially used for the colouration of home care products based on organic solvents, oil, fat or wax, such as polish, air freshener, etc

On the chart I looked at it has the use restriction number 4 which is:
FOR RINSE OFF PRODUCTS ONLY
So people, this stuff has an ingredient you use on your leather, it's gets on your hands AND more importantly is against the hair/skin of your horse.
They even add colouring to flipping leather conditioner which is purely for our sake, it's certainly not for the benefit of leather or horse is it?
One has to ask WHY is it for rinse off products only and WHY do the manufacturers add it to an product that is going to be in contact with your beloved horse?

http://www.clariant.de/C12576850036A6E9/33B8D1A3E48B38BBC1257773002A96C4/$FILE/DP5023E%2005.10.pdf
 
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Well ... The beeswax arrived and I made up a batch of Oz's now famous leather conditioner. It will be getting its first try out this weekend. A quick question though ... I was sort of expecting the finished product to be similar in consistency to lard but it's quite hard, more like a bar of chocolate 😄 have it done something wrong? Used the proportions in the recipe based on 150gms of beeswax, so added 150gms of lard and 300 gms of beef fat. But, as I said, now it's set, it's quite hard.
 
Greylegs said:
Well ... The beeswax arrived and I made up a batch of Oz's now famous leather conditioner. It will be getting its first try out this weekend. A quick question though ... I was sort of expecting the finished product to be similar in consistency to lard but it's quite hard, more like a bar of chocolate �� have it done something wrong? Used the proportions in the recipe based on 150gms of beeswax, so added 150gms of lard and 300 gms of beef fat. But, as I said, now it's set, it's quite hard.
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Mine is too, I believe that is why the elbow grease is needed in such large quantities to work it into the leather
 
No you haven't done anything wrong, leave it in a warm place to help often it up a but when I use mine (and I have just been conditioning a 1960's briefcase in for restorations) I dig a lump out/break a piece off and rub it on the leather like using a piece of soap. The movement/friction heats the fats up and melts them in to the leatehr as well as the warmth from your hands :)
 
I did find that a couple of degrees difference in room temperature makes it much easier to use. We keep a cool house, so now I leave the jar in the kitchen for a few hours before I use it. Definitely not out in the pantry or tack room, or I'd have to chip bits off with a chisel.
 
pennyturner said:
I did find that a couple of degrees difference in room temperature makes it much easier to use. We keep a cool house, so now I leave the jar in the kitchen for a few hours before I use it. Definitely not out in the pantry or tack room, or I'd have to chip bits off with a chisel.
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Lol, yes it can get hard when it's cold. Try putting a small piece between your palms and rub your hands together,it melts it to enable you to apply.
This is why modern commercial products have so many chemicals it, to make it stay soft and easier to apply but by looking at the ingredients posted in Quizzie's post above at what price are people paying with their health for this?
 
hi Oz
probably a daft question hows the best way to use it on a western saddle its quite difficult to teach the grain on it ,cant wait to get my beeswax from work on monday and try it on the bridle as its quite stiff
thanks
 
pinball said:
hi Oz
probably a daft question hows the best way to use it on a western saddle its quite difficult to teach the grain on it ,cant wait to get my beeswax from work on monday and try it on the bridle as its quite stiff
thanks
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Do you mean reach the flesh side?
If so where you can't get to the flesh side and that can apply to any type of saddle or leathergoods etc, apply to the grain side and leave for a little longer to be absorbed in.
It might need a second application if very dried out and do it there after frequently to keep it in good condition and supple.
I'm making up a new batch of my leather conditioner tomorrow as sold out again!
Oz :)
 
Oh lord I think I might go and chuck my tub of Effax in the bin now!! Im going to cheat and order some from you Oz - dont have the time to buy/make this but would love to try it out on my tack
 
bellatrix said:
Oh lord I think I might go and chuck my tub of Effax in the bin now!! Im going to cheat and order some from you Oz - dont have the time to buy/make this but would love to try it out on my tack
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Why not donate the Effax to someone else who might want to use it? Perhaps a friend or a fellow livery if you are on a yard. Or even your local riding centre. Seems like a waste to chuck it away and add to the landfill in the world. But that's only my opinion. Personally I will stick with my current cheap and presumably nasty tub of commercially produced gunk, as I'm perfectly happy with it :)
 
Just found this thread, OH's saddle is looking a bit worse for wear and I have just ordered a new bridle, great timing, will get on to this right away:)
 
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