Napping Horse - Advice/Tips please

[nato]

Have posted previously about a lovely 6 year old I bought who started napping a couple of weeks after taking him home with me - I believe the trigger was hacking out with another horse who napped on the hack as he was perfect before then.

Originally he was nappy towards other horses both in the arena, and out hacking - refusing to move past horses, and napping towards them when asked to leave. This was causing problems for us schooling, hacking and also competing, as I couldn't get him to move away from other horses, either working in or leaving the arena. However after much persistence and support from a rider/instructor, we have tackled the schooling with other horses issue and he will happily work in with other horses - any inkling of a nap gets a growl and boot from me and he is fine. Very forward and responsive to the aids, so that's something.

Hacking alone is so-so; we can have issues leaving the yard but he will happily go to the end of our lane and back, but any further takes considerable time and patience, as he stops and takes a look at nearly everything we pass, and I'm not in the fighting camp as he has a lot of fight in him and I just don't want to go there. I would rather sit and wait it out - and he does go if you sit it out, it just takes a while, we get a few steps forward and we stop and have to do the whole thing again. I have put shows and hacking in company on hold as he just gets too herd-bound with other horses, he won't even go beside another horse just wants to be behind them and refuses to pass them at all.

I do feel like he is improving, but am starting to feel a bit disheartened as I bought him to event and he showed no signs of any napping-type behaviour when I tried him - I tried him everywhere, at home, at a new venue, hacking him alone, past other horses etc and he was foot perfect and super brave. My head tells me he is unsettled in his new home (was in his previous home since a 3 year old) and doesn't trust me as his leader just yet when something new or scary shows up, so give him time but continue to be firm as I am doing so it doesn't escalate. I want to give him a fair shot myself before sending him away, as I do feel it's me he lacks respect for.

He is brave as a lion jumping and LOVES to jump - when I get him into the arena he carries me to the fences and makes them look like a cakewalk, which is why I bought him. I would just appreciate any input from HHO-ers - good news stories, tips/advice, anything that tells me there is light at the end of the tunnel! I am planning to long-rein him to teach him to go forward out hacking to start.

 

[Starbucks]

Can you not do the same as you do in the school when you are on a hack? He sounds like he is taking the pee a little bit because he knows he can get away with it.

I would really try to not hack down the lane and back - I think the turning round encourages napping. Try and find a circular.

 

[nato]

Can you not do the same as you do in the school when you are on a hack? He sounds like he is taking the pee a little bit because he knows he can get away with it.

I would really try to not hack down the lane and back - I think the turning round encourages napping. Try and find a circular.

Thank you, I do exactly what I do in the school out on a hack but I can just feel him dying under me and he is very strong willed - if he doesn't want to go he will not go, so I have to make him think it's his decision! He is getting much better as originally on hacks he just stood there and bucked if you put your leg on, so I'm finding ways around him every day.

Unfortunately I have no choice but to turn around where I am, there are no circular routes, we have to go back the way we came - I do try to go into a field or a cul de sac to make the turn and turn at a different point each time but I have no other options which certainly is frustrating, but it's all I have to work with.

 

[nato]

Also forgot to mention he has had all the usual checks done - flew through 5* vetting incl full set of xrays only 6 wks ago, had his back teeth and saddle all done too. It's not pain!

Also, he will follow anything, and I mean ANYTHING rather than go alone - we have 'taken a lead' from hikers, cars, tractors, bikes and horseboxes on our hacks

 

[Starbucks]

Could you take him out in the trailer / lorry on some nice fun circulars? Maybe he'd be better if he's not leaving his friends?

Sorry can't be more help but I do feel for you. I really detest napping it's so hard to get them out of it.

 

[Orangehorse]

I haven't any recent experience of nappy horses, but it does sound a bit like something newly learned, sorry. You have overcome the issue when schooling so it does seem to be something to be curable. Does your instructor have any ideas for the hacking issue? I know some people would say be firmer, and I expect some riders would deal out a good few wacks, which can work, but it you don't want to get into a fight maybe your slowly, slowly method is the one. Really, he is not being obident to your leg, is he? When you say go, he should go. Don't go a certain distance and stop and come back, always do circular rides if at all possible.

 

[nato]

Could you take him out in the trailer / lorry on some nice fun circulars? Maybe he'd be better if he's not leaving his friends?

Sorry can't be more help but I do feel for you. I really detest napping it's so hard to get them out of it.

Thanks I thought about taking him out for fun circulars but I'm not sure how safe I'd feel going alone and then he'll just follow the bike or walker that I drag out so it would defeat the purpose But the plan is to just get him out and about in general in a non-show environment as both he and I need the time where we are not wound up and panicked trying to fight with each other! So I will give that one a go

I haven't any recent experience of nappy horses, but it does sound a bit like something newly learned, sorry. You have overcome the issue when schooling so it does seem to be something to be curable. Does your instructor have any ideas for the hacking issue? I know some people would say be firmer, and I expect some riders would deal out a good few wacks, which can work, but it you don't want to get into a fight maybe your slowly, slowly method is the one. Really, he is not being obident to your leg, is he? When you say go, he should go. Don't go a certain distance and stop and come back, always do circular rides if at all possible.

You are right - he is only off the leg when he wants to be so he's not quite obedient to my leg. As mentioned above I don't have a choice in terms of hacking as there are no safe circular routes where I am - I was giving the hacking a go as I figured if I could crack the napping out hacking it would improve the nappiness at shows.

My instructor wants to long rein him (which we will be starting this week), and has also suggested they follow me with a lunge whip down the road - not to hit him with it but to give him some encouragement from behind by flicking it (as he is very responsive to the lunge whip/hates it!). I have done the giving him whacks and it has done me no favours - because he is so strong willed he will fight and escalate if you wind him up, so we are both in agreement that if we can avoid the fight then he doesn't buck or spin and that's a good thing. He hasn't learned how to rear yet and I really don't want to ever teach him that, so the calmer we can make the whole affair, the better.

The overall consensus is that being with other horses is making him worse and he is a bit of a wimp, so he needs to be confident himself before I can put him back in the company of other horses. The opposite to what I would normally do, but his napping only escalates when I try to 'give him confidence' with another horse!

 

[Lulup]

There is another post from last few days re nappy horse so rather then write it all again I have copied and pasted my reply but there are also other helpful suggestion on there if you look at the post. The following advice will apply equally to your horses if you follow it consistently - you have to be black and white about this to avoid him becoming frustrated/confused. One of the most important parts is keeping it as calm as possible to avoid adrenalin fuelled fights - but you must be firm and definite.

This will be relatively easily overcome with consistency and correct tactics. You need to establish a cue that he will respond to and this needs to be done in the school where you do not have to worry about traffic etc and can then be transferred to the hacking situation. Make sure you have plenty of time when you do this as consistency is key and every time you give up/give in you will be ensuring that he is even more determined next time as his tactics have been successful on previous occasion(s).
The main principle is that he must never be allowed to achieve his desired outcome by behaving badly (I.e by refusing to go = he is allowed to go behind or return home).
So, in the school - when he plants: sit quietly for a few minutes and ignore ( if he tries to walk on in this time then ask him to remain standing still until you ask him to walk - so decision to move comes from you not him) then whilst giving a *important * loose rein ask him to walk on, persist until he either walks on or, more likely, attempts to back up. As soon as he backs up take a very firm rein contact and strong leg until he stops at which point you immediately release the rein contact and keep still leg. Leave a minute for him to stand and think then ask again and repeat process. If at any point he walks forward then immediately release rein contact and maintain still leg. Timing is important - he must learn that backwards means uncomfortable for him whereas forwards means comfort (quiet leg/hand). Many horses learn that by backing up they are immediately given loose rein which to them is a release of pressure and encourages them to back up!). If you are entirely consistent with this approach you can teach a horse in very few sessions to cease backing up by simply taking a firmer contact as soon as they attempt it - this becomes the learned 'cue' to walk forwards again. The first session may be lengthy and you must be patient and very black and white or you will just confuse the horse. Once this cue is established in the school you can use it out hacking with as much success. I would suggest that when hacking in company you continue to do a little in front, a little behind, a little along side other horse etc but don't ask the horse to go in front if you think he will refuse as if he succeeds you are further embedding the problem - set him up to succeed by repeating success not failure. So if there is something spooky up ahead let the other horse gradually take the lead before your horse refuses to go - that way he has not refused - you have 'managed' the situation and avoided a failure. With regard to hacking alone, don't do it until the 'cue' is established in the school and then do not allow him to follow a person on foot - if you want company for help/support ask the person on foot to stay behind. If he plants then allow him to stand and give him a few minutes (and wait for no traffic) before asking him to go using same tactics as established in the school to prevent reversing.
The minutes that you allow him to stand and think are important. If a horse stops because he is unsure then you immediately adding all the 'noise' of kicking/tugging/gelling/smacking whatever will just raise anxiety and cause the flow of adrenalin to increase - adrenalin is not your friend! Calm persistence and consistency is key with much praise and encouragement for all forward movement - even if it is one step at a time initially.
Some horses will learn this and overcome the planting in one session - will take longer if more established but is entirely resolvable to the point where his hesitation can be met with a momentary firmer rein contact and will prompt him to walk on again. Keep us posted on your progress - you can do it xx
Read more at http://www.horseandhound.co.uk/foru...e-this-so-stressful/page3#ZEb3wl4tBmW5yCH6.99

 

[nato]

Thanks Lulup for your time and so much detail! Willing to try anything but I am always wary of tightening my rein contact when a horse backs up as it can leave them with no option other than to go up if I'm holding the rein and putting my leg on?

 

[ImmyS]

I'm currently dealing with a nappy horse who sounds similar - general uncertainty, lack of confidence in me and disobedience to the leg. It is a time and patience thing and most importantly - consistency. She would also buck when pushed on, but she is slowly, but surely improving and taking less time to go past 'scary' things and is far less reactive on a good day - moving forward off the voice and leg with reassurance, without the dramatics. Saying that she will take lead and isn't quite as herd bound as yours sounds, just can be disobedient to the leg when she chooses.

I did have an ex racer that was extremely herd bound and difficult to hack alone. I used to take her out in hand a lot. It was a good way to bond and her to gain confidence in me. After I felt she was relaxed in hand, I would take her out tacked up then jump up on her literally 100m from home and ride her back. I would then continue the process getting on board slighty earlier every time until I left the yard mounted. After completing this process - I could hack her anywhere and everywhere and never had an issue alone or taking a lead in company.

 

[nato]

I did have an ex racer that was extremely herd bound and difficult to hack alone. I used to take her out in hand a lot. It was a good way to bond and her to gain confidence in me. After I felt she was relaxed in hand, I would take her out tacked up then jump up on her literally 100m from home and ride her back. I would then continue the process getting on board slighty earlier every time until I left the yard mounted. After completing this process - I could hack her anywhere and everywhere and never had an issue alone or taking a lead in company.

That's really interesting ImmyS - it's only just occurred to me that that might be the reason he happily hacks to the end of our lane and back. I was walking him down it and back after every session the first few weeks, and one day I hopped up and hacked him down it and couldn't figure out why he wasn't nappy going down it! I am going to give that a go too and see if that helps, thank you so much

 

[nato]

Oops, duplicate post!

 

[ImmyS]

That's really interesting ImmyS - it's only just occurred to me that that might be the reason he happily hacks to the end of our lane and back. I was walking him down it and back after every session the first few weeks, and one day I hopped up and hacked him down it and couldn't figure out why he wasn't nappy going down it! I am going to give that a go too and see if that helps, thank you so much

I hope it works for you! I think it just builds their confidence slowly and translates to ridden work. Good luck!

 

[nato]

Thanks ImmyS - will keep you posted

 

[Kezzabell2]

he sounds just like my 6 yr old, who I've had since he was 18 months old. i posted about him yesterday and Saturday, going through the same battle

 

[xspiralx]

Hi OP

I bought a horse very recently and have had a few similar issues so I'll tell you how I'm dealing with it, if that's of any help.

The root of the issue in my mare's case is a lack of confidence - she's seeing things she's not used to - electric gates, sheep etc - and she's nervous. However what started as spookiness progressed after about a week to becoming napping - reversing, half rears and trying to spin through the shoulder. I initially took the softly softly approach - being kind and reassuring, waiting it out, leading past etc - but she was getting worse not better.

So to nip it in the bud, I took a tough love approach. Each time she naps she gets a proper smack. As soon as she's going forwards again she gets praise. She will reverse sharply and when she's doing it I sit quietly - doing anything at this point just winds her up. I wait until she's stopped and then ask her to go forwards again. If she naps again, then repeat. The first day we had a proper battle to get out of the yard, the second day she only had a half hearted nap and the third day she barely considered stopping. She's had other dramas at other things we've come across outside but I take the same approach, and in the space of a few days it's improved dramatically.

Napping is a very nasty habit and not one you want to become ingrained so I do think you want to nip it in the bud. I don't personally like getting tough with a horse but sometimes it is the best and quickest way to deal with a problem - and you'll save both yourself and your horse a lot of frustration and anxiety in the long run by establishing yourself as the one in charge. I believe that's even true when an issue is due to insecurity. Although a horse might be worried, they need to have that trust and respect in you to go when you say so - if you're hesitant that won't necessarily inspire much confidence in your leadership.

 

[nato]

Hi OP

I bought a horse very recently and have had a few similar issues so I'll tell you how I'm dealing with it, if that's of any help.

The root of the issue in my mare's case is a lack of confidence - she's seeing things she's not used to - electric gates, sheep etc - and she's nervous. However what started as spookiness progressed after about a week to becoming napping - reversing, half rears and trying to spin through the shoulder. I initially took the softly softly approach - being kind and reassuring, waiting it out, leading past etc - but she was getting worse not better.

So to nip it in the bud, I took a tough love approach. Each time she naps she gets a proper smack. As soon as she's going forwards again she gets praise. She will reverse sharply and when she's doing it I sit quietly - doing anything at this point just winds her up. I wait until she's stopped and then ask her to go forwards again. If she naps again, then repeat. The first day we had a proper battle to get out of the yard, the second day she only had a half hearted nap and the third day she barely considered stopping. She's had other dramas at other things we've come across outside but I take the same approach, and in the space of a few days it's improved dramatically.

Napping is a very nasty habit and not one you want to become ingrained so I do think you want to nip it in the bud. I don't personally like getting tough with a horse but sometimes it is the best and quickest way to deal with a problem - and you'll save both yourself and your horse a lot of frustration and anxiety in the long run by establishing yourself as the one in charge. I believe that's even true when an issue is due to insecurity. Although a horse might be worried, they need to have that trust and respect in you to go when you say so - if you're hesitant that won't necessarily inspire much confidence in your leadership.

Thank you, unfortunately smacking or any form of 'getting angry' with him only serves to wind him up he escalates the more you get angry. He gives in just as quick, if not quicker with the 'sit and wait it out' approach but I just have to exercise a lot more self control He gets a growl or I bang a stick off my boot but any kind of contact with a stick just results in massive bunny hops and reversing at speed!

 

[xspiralx]

Thank you, unfortunately smacking or any form of 'getting angry' with him only serves to wind him up he escalates the more you get angry. He gives in just as quick, if not quicker with the 'sit and wait it out' approach but I just have to exercise a lot more self control He gets a growl or I bang a stick off my boot but any kind of contact with a stick just results in massive bunny hops and reversing at speed!

Only you know your horse but I would say that sometimes you have to ride through the initial temper tantrum. Horses don't like being told off - so if they can get you to back off with 'scary' behaviour then they often will. He's training you to leave him alone and let him dictate the pace - so he's in charge rather than you. In my experience you have to sit through it and make them realise that throwing their toys out of the pram won't get them anywhere - and that can be a bit daunting but necessary to establish yourself as the leader.

If you're not confident then I would get out an experienced trainer to help you deal with this - for a second opinion as much as anything.

Also, telling a horse off doesn't mean getting angry - in fact it definitely shouldn't. You should be calm at all times.

 

[nato]

Only you know your horse but I would say that sometimes you have to ride through the initial temper tantrum. Horses don't like being told off - so if they can get you to back off with 'scary' behaviour then they often will. He's training you to leave him alone and let him dictate the pace - so he's in charge rather than you. In my experience you have to sit through it and make them realise that throwing their toys out of the pram won't get them anywhere - and that can be a bit daunting but necessary to establish yourself as the leader.

If you're not confident then I would get out an experienced trainer to help you deal with this - for a second opinion as much as anything.

Also, telling a horse off doesn't mean getting angry - in fact it definitely shouldn't. You should be calm at all times.

Thanks, I can sit out his bucks and don't mind the tantrums - I was just trying to be really careful to not let him escalate to the point where he would rear or flip himself as he hasn't learned to do either yet. I think youre right though about him dictating the pace, everything is on his terms!

I'm confident with him and not in any way afraid of him (have ridden worse horses!) but just feeling disheartened as I bought him fit and ready and had planned to compete him this summer but it's all been put on hold now.

I have an instructor working with me and she's going to be riding him one day a week for me as well as giving me regular lessons and on the ground coaching.

Thanks everyone for your advice and help so far!

 

[xspiralx]

I do completely understand and I sympathise - it's not nice, particularly when you don't know how much they will react. But for a competition horse its vital that he's in front of the leg and not calling the shots - you can still be out competing this summer if you nip this in the bud!

If you do decide to tackle it by getting after him, then I would pick a day and place where you've got plenty of time (because you need to keep going until you've 'won') and in as safe a place as possible. I'd also make sure there's someone on the ground - not to lead him past or reassure him but a. to be on hand to help just in case, and b. to assist you from the ground if needs be - sometimes a well timed handful of earth thrown can shock a horse into going forwards, or even having a lunge whip to wave.

Best of luck - it's not a nice problem to have to deal with and certainly I had to strap on my brave pants for a few days last week, so I know how you feel!

 

[Antw23uk]

Some excellent advise but I agree with the last few posts about not avoiding the fight. I think at some point you need to go the whole way and win the fight for him to realise that actually you aren't going to back down and that you are right. At the moment he is training you to back off from telling him off and what you need to do is say 'come on then, lets fight, I'm going to win regardless .. bring it on sunshine!' Getting firm doesn't mean losing your temper, it means being in absolute control. Pick your fight when you know your going to win and keep going until you win.

 

[FemelleReynard]

As others have said, you really need to find a route where you don't have to turn around, as that will definitely be making the issue worse.

And again, I agree with the others that you need to have, and win, the battle about getting him to go forward. I had to have a similar one with my big (17 hand) ID who had never hacked alone and was nappy, but when it's done it's done, and now he's a dream to hack out alone and in company. It's daunting, especially when you're on a big powerful horse, but he didn't react too badly and he realised that I'm the boss, which is imperative, especially with horses that easily have the strength and power to run riot with us poor little weak riders!

What makes you think having the 'argument' with him will make him rear? My horse does all sorts of stomping and reversing and spinning but he doesn't rear. I would get that little fear out of the back of your mind, as that could also be holding you back from being firm with him. Remember, not all horses are rearers, and not every horse will revert to rearing when they don't want to do something, so it's unlikely yours will if he isn't a rearer now!

Good luck with him and stick it out, and remember BE FIRM. You're the boss!

 

[nato]

Thanks all. Guess the consensus is I need to have the fight with him to show him I am boss - and of course I would not lose my temper with him, as trying as they can be, I always try to treat my horses fairly and with respect wherever I can

I would really appreciate anyone who could be specific with me as to how you approach/handle the 'fights' and the right thing to do based on the horses reaction - currently when I feel him backing off I keep my leg on, push the contact forward and growl. If he stops I put my leg on and if that doesn't work he gets a schooling whip behind the leg and a growl - this is typically when the tantrums begin and we have a big buck followed by a spin home. I have never yet let him turn 180 degrees to home so then he usually reverses because he can't turn and won't go forward.

When is the right time to smack him and when is the right time to sit there? As smacks usually just result in bucking and spinning so trying to judge the best time to follow up with a second smack etc. And do you smack behind the leg or on the shoulder?

 

[xspiralx]

Hi nato

I will smack as soon as my request to go forwards is refused. So the horse stops, I will ask with the leg, if I don't get an immediate forward response - then I will smack straight away, usually just once but hard. Then I ask again for forwards with my leg, if I don't get it then smack again, etc. It's important to be instant in your response so the horse connects the smack to the disobedience.

If she runs backwards I generally sit quietly - although if it is prolonged I might give her a smack during to try and jolt her out of it - and then when she stops I give her a second of stillness and then ask for forwards with the leg - if she doesn't go forward straight away then I would smack again.

It sounds a lot but it's not repeated whacking, I would punish once, firmly, for each disobedience. The first time you might have to have a battle over it - with my mare I really had to get after her. But if you win then you should find each time gets quicker and quicker until he will go straight off your leg aid.

Edited to add - in the case of bucking and spinning I would time it - every few seconds it continues give another reprimand. And always smack behind the leg - it's got to be backing up your leg aids.

Hope that helps.

 

[nato]

Hi nato

I will smack as soon as my request to go forwards is refused. So the horse stops, I will ask with the leg, if I don't get an immediate forward response - then I will smack straight away, usually just once but hard. Then I ask again for forwards with my leg, if I don't get it then smack again, etc. It's important to be instant in your response so the horse connects the smack to the disobedience.

If she runs backwards I generally sit quietly - although if it is prolonged I might give her a smack during to try and jolt her out of it - and then when she stops I give her a second of stillness and then ask for forwards with the leg - if she doesn't go forward straight away then I would smack again.

It sounds a lot but it's not repeated whacking, I would punish once, firmly, for each disobedience. The first time you might have to have a battle over it - with my mare I really had to get after her. But if you win then you should find each time gets quicker and quicker until he will go straight off your leg aid.

Edited to add - in the case of bucking and spinning I would time it - every few seconds it continues give another reprimand. And always smack behind the leg - it's got to be backing up your leg aids.

Hope that helps.

SUPER helpful. Thank you xspiralx. I don't know why I couldn't get my head around it, I had this thing in my head about repeatedly smacking him or winding him up but that sounds like a good approach. I will try this on our next hack and update you

 

[xspiralx]

Glad to be of help and please do keep us posted - good luck!

You might find it helpful also to try and trot him through it - it's easier to keep them in front of the leg and prevent them planting from a trot

 

[RosieJM]

A tiny circle is one of the best tools to have in your tool kit for a nappy horse - but it has to be ridden quite specifically to work. It's not good pulling him round and kicking away or he'll go dead to it. You need to get your rein fairly short, and then bring your hand out away from his neck, level with your own knee so his head is bent right round, then put your inside leg on quite firmly and get him to step away from it, releasing the pressure with your leg when he does. Do a few small circles like this to generate some energy and show him you can move his feet, plus show him that the space he wants to stick in is a working space not a comfy resting space, then see if you can use one of those small circles and let it get a bit bigger, moving off your inside leg.




A really important thing is to make it hard work to be with friends/in the gateway at the yard/wherever he wants to be, so do some things there, work on stuff, circle round puddles, keep him busy when he is where he wants to be, and then make it all nice and easy and fun and relaxed when he goes where he didnt want to go.

Really important not to use your legs unless you are a)sure they will work or b) able to back them up in some way - someone leading you, or using a flick of the reins, or your energy level, or someone behind you using body language or a shaky bottle to push you on. The key thing is the more times you put your leg on without reinforcing what the legs mean, the more chance he gets to practise ignoring them/resisting them.

Also, I think its absolutely fine to cheat - they key is to get positive practise and start a positive cycle of him being good and developing confidence and respect and enjoying his work, so leading out in hand is fine.

With another horse, it is a good idea to get him walking behind the other horse bu off to the side, so he is in his own track, and get that established first then work on him coming upsides and then in front. At first just get him to lead for a few strides, and rather than give up and let him duck back behind, have the other horse trot on and overtake so that the change in who is in front is still forward moving and not backward.


Edited to add: re 'having the fight' - I sort of specialise in nappy horses, and the ones who come to me are the ones where people have already tried to have the fight and it has gone wrong or not worked. This approach obviously works for some or it wouldnt be passed on, but you should know that it makes some worse, some learn new, more dangerous behaviours when they are pushed to their limit and can end up rearing over, running into things, or truly bolting for home as they are just overwhelmed with adrenaline and fear and stress. Others end up going forward but never really enjoy their hacking and spook the whole way, or jog for home, or will go back to napping with a 'weaker' rider. I would never aim to work through anything where his stress level, or yours, seems to be above a 3/10. If it is, you need to change something about the training scenario to make it an easier lesson. The technique I advised above should be carried out calmly, and lightly, not as part of a battle. There is no hard in leading out in hand a few times first, or work on leaving other horses in a small space first, etc. Going for all out war is a gamble which often pays off fine, but when it doesn't the results take a lot of fixing.

Good luck

 

[nato]

Thanks RosieJM - super helpful! Will try that too!

 

[nato]

Wanted to give a quick update!

Have spent the last couple of weeks focusing on responsiveness to the aids - flexions, leg yields, moving off my leg and respecting the schooling/jumping whip (without bucking!), as well as voice aids on the lunge. This has made a massive difference as now when I feel him about to nap or protest I immediately get him flexing to focus on something other than what he wants to nap from, and use leg yields to move him forwards without him realising it. He now respects the stick and will go forward off it even if he wont go from my leg.

We did have an 'argument' about a week ago and I won which I believe has helped, and as well as that I have focused on taking him out to group lessons, doing our schooling at home whenever other horses are in the arena, and going to schooling shows, so he comes to expect being with and moving away from other horses as the norm now.

In the last week we have done dressage and showjumping, both with no issues - going into and out of the warm up, as well as leaving the collecting ring and entering the main arena on his own with no napping. We still have napping leaving the yard for a hack but the 'fights' are getting shorter each time.

I'm not positive that he's 100% 'cured' and I know I may have bad and good days, and will need to keep on top of him, but the consistency in my approach to him over the last few weeks has proved worthwhile and I think he is starting to settle and get the idea that complying is easier now!

Thank you all for your help!

 

[xspiralx]

Thanks for updating OP - very pleased to hear that you are making progress with him. Onwards and upwards!