New Stable Build

QueenBella

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Hi all,

Finally after years of pestering I got the green light to build my own stables.

They aren't going to be anything fancy as I prefer mine to be out the majority of the time but when weather is bad or injury I just want to have somewhere proper to put them.

My idea is a row of 3 12x12 stables with a tilt roof, with one of the stables for the now being used as a feed/tack room as I only have 2. This is the idea for now but hopefully there will be additions down the line ;)

What I am just wondering is what width of a roof overhang would you recommend and also the width of the concrete walkway in front of the stables? Also any other recommendations would be great :)
 

MagicMelon

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If you prefer yours to be out most of the time, how about you put the stable block in a corner of the field with them then they can come and go as they please? I had a big hardcore yard put down then had a wooden stable block built on top (rectangle with 3 huge stables, 1 of which I use as my tackroom). I leave the doors pinned back so the horses can go into the 2 stables whenever they want 24 hours a day. On the hardcore pad out the front I put their round hay bale feeder so they're out of the mud eating it during the winter which helps the field too. I can shut them in if necessary but they can do what they want. I lot of the time they'll just stand under the overhang part. Mine is about 1.5 meters wide very roughly. Ive left the flooring as hardcore in the stables so its very free draining (any pee or muddy feet just sort of drains away) and because its hardcore its not slippy when it gets icy whereas I avoided concrete for that exact reason. I have rubber matting down in my tackroom. No other advice really but I did find the extra large stables great as I hate small stables and had a 17.2hh at the time so nothing will ever be too big for them. 12x12 are so small IMO even for ponies unless they're shetlands. You might also get something bigger in future? Get proper lighting put in too helps massively, I have downlighters under the overhang and of course big lights in the stables.
 

Abacus

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Consider the usual direction of wind/rain in the orientation of the stables. You don't want gales and storms blowing in.

Also really good draining - remember drainpipes and have a waterbutt from the drain - ideally have a soakaway as well. If you just put stables on a concrete base, they often get flooded in heavy rain and there's nothing more depressing than having to change a whole bed just because it is soaked with rain.
 

Supercalifragilistic

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Also consider which direction they face for the sun, if south facing I would put on as large a possible overhang because it will help with them not heating up in summer.
 

QueenBella

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If you prefer yours to be out most of the time, how about you put the stable block in a corner of the field with them then they can come and go as they please? I had a big hardcore yard put down then had a wooden stable block built on top (rectangle with 3 huge stables, 1 of which I use as my tackroom). I leave the doors pinned back so the horses can go into the 2 stables whenever they want 24 hours a day. On the hardcore pad out the front I put their round hay bale feeder so they're out of the mud eating it during the winter which helps the field too. I can shut them in if necessary but they can do what they want. I lot of the time they'll just stand under the overhang part. Mine is about 1.5 meters wide very roughly. Ive left the flooring as hardcore in the stables so its very free draining (any pee or muddy feet just sort of drains away) and because its hardcore its not slippy when it gets icy whereas I avoided concrete for that exact reason. I have rubber matting down in my tackroom. No other advice really but I did find the extra large stables great as I hate small stables and had a 17.2hh at the time so nothing will ever be too big for them. 12x12 are so small IMO even for ponies unless they're shetlands. You might also get something bigger in future? Get proper lighting put in too helps massively, I have downlighters under the overhang and of course big lights in the stables.

Thanks for replying and advice. That is the plan it will be in the corner of one of the fields with access to it as they please. Most of their other fields have old stone sheds they have free access to but I just need a stable or 2 to house them the odd time.

I meant to mention that the stables will be concrete block stables and will be plastered so would that still affect the concrete foundation inside the stables? I was always under the impression they would be water tight as most livery yards have that set up and are never wet inside.

I am considering changing the dimensions to 2x 14x12 stables with a 8x12 tack room but I just like the idea of having an extra stable.
 

QueenBella

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Thank you everyone for the replies and advice, I should add that I'm based in Ireland and these will be concrete block stables that will be plastered with a concrete foundation with drainage so will that affect the floor getting wet and the stables over heating? As I'm not too sure if most of the replies are with timber stables in mind.

Most yards I've been on through the years were concrete blocks and I never had any issues with flooding (unless roof was leaking) or overheating but if that is an issue with concrete stables I will definitely consider all of the above advice.:)
 

Abacus

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I was at one yard with a quickly erected pair of wooden stables on skids that didn't have drainpipes. Mine flooded every time it rained - water went straight onto the concrete surround and underneath the skids.
 

dorsetladette

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Thank you everyone for the replies and advice, I should add that I'm based in Ireland and these will be concrete block stables that will be plastered with a concrete foundation with drainage so will that affect the floor getting wet and the stables over heating? As I'm not too sure if most of the replies are with timber stables in mind.

Most yards I've been on through the years were concrete blocks and I never had any issues with flooding (unless roof was leaking) or overheating but if that is an issue with concrete stables I will definitely consider all of the above advice.:)


as your building rather than buying off the peg so to speak. I'd see about going slightly larger than 12 x 12 in possible.

I think most over hangs are approx 2ft in old money. As for the yard area. i'd go as big as you possibly can. It's so useful to have somewhere to tie up outside on hard ground for farrier/vet etc even somewhere to park a trailer or lorry if you can go that big.
 

PinkvSantaboots

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Ive got 3 stables one larger corner one with a feed room off that and 2 smaller ones either side, I have a good 3 meters base at the front and to one side it extends to my field gateway then goes all along one side and at the back of the stables I have a really big area of hard standing.

This way the muddy gateway stays away from the gate I can tie nets at the back on the hardstanding area and they always have a dry area to stand on, I don't leave my stable doors open as one of mine is a bit bossy and I worry about the other 2, I could however extend the roof at the back to create a shelter area if I ever wanted to but it is fine how it is at the moment.
 

Merry neddy man

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Keep them 36ft long but 14ft front to back gives you 3 @14 ×12. Unless your planning only allows 36 x 12. Overhang about 5ft , concrete walkway as big as possible 15 ft ish so if tied up outside another horse can be led past, Regrettably it all adds more cost but worth it in the long term.
 
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paddi22

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don't combine your feed and tack room! if you are building from scratch, but on a feed room and area at end for storing hay/rugs etc. my builder advised me to do that and I thank him every day! it's much cleaner not having tack in with feed. you get less mice munching on tack and stuff, and your equipment gets less dusty.

our builder explained that once you order concrete you are basically paying for the whole truck, so ask him what he thinks will work. much better to invest at the start and make it wide, you won't regret it.
 

QueenBella

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Hi all,
Sorry about the late reply I wasn't able to access the forum for some reason.

Thank you all very much for all your recommendations and I have taken all of them on board and have gone back to the drawing board. I was also considering putting in a 47ft long x 24ft wide open fronted shed with concrete wall (at least 6ft high) with galvanized sheeting the rest of the way that could house 3x 14x12 stables, a tack room and room for the horsebox, shavings etc (I have it all designed on CAD) but I don't know if that's a good solution for horses and would they get cold, hit by the elements etc. so if anyone has experience with these let me know please.

Now all that matters is I get my non-horsey-machinery-mad Dad on board as its his land and he will be building them for me.

I will let ye know any updates, thanks again! :)
 

QueenBella

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Hi all,

Said I would update the thread!

Foundation has been poured for my new build this week! Decided to go for a 47ft x 30ft shed, 12ft to the eaves with 8ft mass concrete walls. Decided this was the best solution as if I ever move from home the shed could be used for something else.

Now the issue is trying to find the best way to configure the shed. There will be a 12ft door to the left of the shed. I have internal stables bought for the shed, 1x 14ft front, 2x 12ft fronts and 2x 12ft full height boarded partitions (will purchase more as I need). The shed will be used for housing shavings and all my others bits and bobs. Outside I will have a yard for horse box parking, haylage bale storage and muck heap. The plan with the muckheap is to put a lean to onto the shed so it will be covered but any suggestions for muck heaps please let me know as every yard I was ever stabled at did something different so not sure what's the best to do.

Attached on the original layout is what I have been playing around with on AutoCad. I think it fits best but when we were laying the foundation my uncle suggested having a door at the end of the shed as the muck heap will be towards the back of the shed to save the hassle of going out the main door but I think it'd rather the extra 4ft in the store room so not sure what to do there!

If ye have any tips or any other ways ye can think the layout of the stables would work please let me know! Thanks! :D
 

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  • Stable Design 2023 - Idea 2 with door.pdf
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QueenBella

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Sorry, I better attach them as pictures as I don't want anyone to have to download anything on their computer!
 

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    Stable Design 2023 - Idea 1.JPG
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  • Stable Design 2023 - Idea 2 with door.JPG
    Stable Design 2023 - Idea 2 with door.JPG
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QueenBella

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I wouldn’t have the muckheap beside the shed, it will stink and the fumes will not be great for lungs.
Noted, thank you! I'll move the muck heap to another spot in the yard and then the door to the outside at the back for the barrow probably wont be a necessity so I could just have it in the store room
 

Maxidoodle

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OP, I’d be tempted with all that space to make the other two smaller stables bigger. I think the hallway to an exit door is a waste of valuable space, in reality it’s not going to knock off that much time to take the wheelbarrow out of a main door. Muck heap away from buildings too (I can’t quite see where the much heap is), I was on a yard that had the muck heap up against the outside wall at the end of a block and it was a frightening experience when I came down to the yard to find it smouldering one day. Also, storage near the biggest doors is helpful, so that dont have to walk the length of the building with stuff to storage.
 

QueenBella

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OP, I’d be tempted with all that space to make the other two smaller stables bigger. I think the hallway to an exit door is a waste of valuable space, in reality it’s not going to knock off that much time to take the wheelbarrow out of a main door. Muck heap away from buildings too (I can’t quite see where the much heap is), I was on a yard that had the muck heap up against the outside wall at the end of a block and it was a frightening experience when I came down to the yard to find it smouldering one day. Also, storage near the biggest doors is helpful, so that dont have to walk the length of the building with stuff to storage.

I know I'm kicking myself I didn't order 2 14ft partitions :rolleyes: I will have a blocklayer there to do the store room so I might get him to build out 2 pillars 2ft that will make the 2 stables 12ftx14ft.

Oh no that's frightening! It will be well away from the shed, not sure of the dimensions of the yard just yet as it hasn't been dug out but it wont be near the stables.
Yes for the time being where I've no stable is going to be a storage area for bulky items
 

Maxidoodle

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I know I'm kicking myself I didn't order 2 14ft partitions :rolleyes: I will have a blocklayer there to do the store room so I might get him to build out 2 pillars 2ft that will make the 2 stables 12ftx14ft.

Oh no that's frightening! It will be well away from the shed, not sure of the dimensions of the yard just yet as it hasn't been dug out but it wont be near the stables.
Yes for the time being where I've no stable is going to be a storage area for bulky items

Pillars work well, that’s what a lot of people do here to save money buying the bigger partitions. Very exciting 🙂 I bet you can’t wait until it is finished
 

dorsetladette

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How lucky are you. I'm a little envious.

I'd put the wash bay in the bottom right hand corner as its nearest the door and saves water splashing/running about.

As others have said I wouldn't put muck heap near the building, can you not put a trailer near a gate and have a local farmer take it away.
 

QueenBella

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How lucky are you. I'm a little envious.

I'd put the wash bay in the bottom right hand corner as its nearest the door and saves water splashing/running about.

As others have said I wouldn't put muck heap near the building, can you not put a trailer near a gate and have a local farmer take it away.
Thank you, I'm very fortunate that my family and partner are doing most the work for me and we have most of the materials and machinery to do it ourselves.

Yes I actually really like the idea of the wash bay down near the end, I think I might try fit something down there. I also like the idea of the trailer, I probably will do that for the time being and see how I get on
 

QueenBella

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I would also move the doors on the two 12x14 stables. Where you have them next to each other, you can bet the horse will constantly squabble over the doors
Yes it's my fault I actually ordered the wrong way around door for one of the stables 😰 I don't think a left side opening door will work down near the store as I'd be afraid there wouldn't be much of a swing to fit the horses around it. I'll probably put a stable on either end and keep the 12ft section in the middle free for now and use that for storage and down the line get a partition front with the door in the middle and all the horses should be happy then!
 

Merry neddy man

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The stable doors want to open OUTWARDS, as M and EJ say dont put doors side by side because they will argue, and one horse may try to nip another as you lead it into the stable, I think a rear door is good as if fastened open it gives airflow, depending which end the muck heap is when it's pi$$ing it down you'll be glad of that you're not getting wet walking right round the building with every barrow of muck, so that door wants to be as wide as possible and open outwards to give more room down the passage.
 
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SilverLinings

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I second the suggestions by other posters of moving the muck heap away from the building, and having a second door at the opposite end of the building from the main door so that you have a fire exit if the fire is by the main entrance.

When you mentioned having the muck heap next to the building you said about roofing it, doing that is likely to make it difficult for a tractor to dig the muck out when the heap needs emptying. There is no need to keep the heap dry anyway, and I have always thought than the rain helps it to rot down quicker than it would do in a dry environment.

If you decide on using a muck trailer instead then having a suitable ramp built is a game-changer, making the job much easier than having to fork the muck in from ground height or from an inadequate ramp.

Something I would suggest is that rather than having a wall built to section off the wash bay you fit steel pillars so that you can cross-tie the horse whilst they face towards the middle of the barn. Pillars like this mean that horses can get into less trouble when tied up, and stops them moving around too much whilst you wash/groom/tack up. When you are finished you just unclip the horse and walk them forwards between the pillars. I think it is also nice for the horse that this way they are not tied up facing the wall (I have one who always turns to watch what's going on if you tie him to a wall, which means that every time I want to do something on his other side I have to move him over which gets a bit boring).

It is a very exciting project for you, please may we have progress pictures as it is being built? :)
 

gallopingby

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The ability to cross tie is useful for lots of things, remember if you have a wash bay that could be used as a stable in an emergency you might just fill it sooner than you’d like.
 
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